meepmeepmayer

Better than no chin protection, but I'm not sure how much it would help. It may help to prevent the first hit, but then it probably breaks and your face may still be sliding on the ground. I wouldn't trust it at above 30kph.

This @EcoDrift article implies that the board limits the power delivery in one way or the other, and this is responsible for the ankle flicking/instable behavior of the 16X at high speeds. A 45kph 16XS modification with the 18XL type board doesn't have these problems. I wonder why they don't just fix this. https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ru&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fecodrift.ru%2F2019%2F12%2F17%2Frazbiraemsya-v-moshhnosti-dvigatelej-na-primere-kingsong-ks-16x-16xs%2F

Snow?! In California? How high up is that? Gorgeous ride though

Pedal dipping in turns is typical when the calibration is off. There's a lots of threads about this here: https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Aelectricunicycle.org+pedal+dipping+in+turns This usually happens if the calibration is done while the wheel is not upright on the left-right axis (when it's leaning to one side) or isn't perfectly still while calibrating (but not leaning to the side is the most important for a good calibration). The pedal angle can be as you want it, but no side lean. So a good calibration (no side lean) should fix your problem.

Everyone says that (I did) before they get a wheel, because that's already a lot of money for an unproven thing and seems like a reasonable upper limit. But very likely it will make sense to spend more (if you can), up to around $1500. Everyone says that (I did... with 25kph = 16mph instead of 30kph = 20mph like you) before they get a wheel. Experience shows that 90+% of people will very quickly get frustrated with such a speed limitation and want to upgrade after a week or two. That's typical for V8 buyers. 30kph/20mph is just not enough for the vast majority of riders. Honestly, for that you want a bigger battery than the 2p battery of the V8(F). - So you can buy a "specialty" wheel that is light and easy to carry but lacks in all other aspects (the V8F), or you can buy a general purpose wheel that is chosen for riding first and does that perfectly, and you deal with the carrying as well as you can. You need to decide what counts for you in the end. Carrying a heavy wheel is annoying while the V8(F) is a joy to lug around, so if you get annoyed every day, that isn't ideal too. My recommendation is to buy a wheel for how it rides first. Options that come to mind: V10F or V10 - since they weigh the same, I strongly suggest going for the V10F for the added range (and even a bit of speed). But they are indeed a bit big and heavy. Has a really nice wider and comfortable tire. Gotway Tesla - less weight and size, trolley handle, and it's fast and powerful. Kingsong 16S - about the same weight and size as the Tesla, just slower, but with the best form factor (handle and overall size/shape). Also don't rule out a bigger wheel like a 18L. For commuting, a big nice cushy comfortable forgiving tire isn't the worst (the V10(F) is in between). Consider it. The MCM5 is like a smaller Tesla. The smaller tire limits the practical speed you want to ride it, but it is fast and a popular commuter option for a reason, and it's even smaller and lighter than the Tesla. I'd go for the Tesla because it's lighter than the V10(F) and faster/stronger/safer (same thing) than the 16S*. Or the V10(F) if it's tire appeals to you more (but it is big and heavy). Or maybe an MCM5? * [The 16S 35kph limit falls with battery charge and gives you a hard scary tiltback when you reach it. So realistically the 16S is a 30kph or below wheel most of the time, which might just turn out to be a few kph too slow. The Tesla completely eliminates that problem.]

I cannot answer your question. But I would guess (and it is only a guess) any body armor will give more or less the same result in most situations. So the important distinction would be whether you wear any body armor or not. But don't forget wrist guards (as you didn't mention any) They are by far the most important for EUCing. Followed by knee and maybe elbow pads (as you already have a helmet). Everything else, including body armor, comes later.

Has this already been posted? Apparently there is a King Song KS16XS which has half the battery (777Wh - the other side is empty) and the board has only 6 mosfets instead of 12 like the 16X. Rated at 45kph and 2000W. The rest seems more or less the same. Interestingly they say it rides smoother, using the 18XL type board which doesn't have the problems the 16X showed. As seen on the @EcoDrift website: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ru&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fecodrift.ru%2F2019%2F12%2F17%2Frazbiraemsya-v-moshhnosti-dvigatelej-na-primere-kingsong-ks-16x-16xs%2F Maybe this is only a Russia-specific model that isn't (originally) planned for Europe and North America? A bit like the 14M which later showed up everywhere?

Doesn't the Monster have vertical packs, where the board is in the space where another vertical pack would fit? So any battery pack would always be off-center? And the imbalance is from the lack of pack in the 4th space where the board sits? Are you talking about some mod (or the ACM/msuper where the packs lie horizontally and are centered above the axle)? Wondering if I'm missing something (new internal layout?) or you mixed up something.

18XL! It's no contest. Wasting a lot of money on a 3+ year old, underpowered wheel (IMO) you would upgrade from quickly vs. getting a modern performance wheel with the some of the best range, speed, and safety the market has to offer, even better if it's used which just means the same for a lower price. Literally the best possible option for any wheel buy. One could even argue the wider tire and bigger size of the 18XL (leg leverage against the shell) make it more stable and therefore easier to learn on. 18XL and never look back.

Whether the job is worth it is another (good!) question. But it appears what counts for such a wheel is a big/wide comfortable and safe tire. No surprise there. Same for daily commuting over longer distances.

Since the settings are saved on the board, no surprise that replacing the board gives you standard settings EUC World shows the old settings because you cannot read any settings from any Gotway wheel. Gotway's Bluetooth functionality is strictly one-way - you can send a command to set X to Y, and the wheel confirms it received the command by beeping twice. But you cannot know what the wheel is already set to, the functionality doesn't include reading anything (not even the wheel model). Apps can send commands to "a Gotway" and hope they are received, nothing else. Apps should just show no settings except those that literally just have been set. So everything you describe is exactly as expected. That's a good sign, I guess.

Oh, unofficial unlock you mean Nice!

It can? I don't believe so. That's what the V8F is for (barely). Realistically, Tesla is the best answer. Plenty of reserves at 40kph and below 20kg. Reasonable size/shape to carry, and trolley handle.

You do not press against the wheel with the inside of your lower leg. You turn (rotate) the knee inside and press with the front of your lower leg (the shin with the mten3). This gives great leverage! I think it should work even with such a low wheel. Rest is practice, but going from side-pushing to rotate-pushing greatly helped me.

Has any of you guys ever looked at the actual GPS track of your rides on a map? Because if you did, you wouldn't put too much trust into "GPS speed" as a concept. I don't think it's just my phone that is shitty and everyone else's is perfectly accurate. How could you expect a speed derived from this to be worth much? I rode neither through the meadow nor on the wrong side of the road. The only speed I trust is wheel speed. At least it's consistently wrong, so working with it has a sound base.

Of course they were

Can you provide more pictures?

Wow I did not expect that! I thought 2020 would become a quieter year. Apparently I was totally wrong. Great info!

The idea behind the documentation is to show the wheel goes >6kph. Some guy already had to pay for a survey (Gutachten) some time (don't remember the details), and this should be prevented.

Informed by whom? What exactly did they say? As far as speculation goes: The MSX has ~19.5 inches real tire diameter (source). So there's your Gotway 20 incher. Already exists The latest info on the 126V is that they couldn't do it. I would not hope for 126V wheels any time soon.

The cold affects the battery, but not the reading itself. You get lower range from a cold battery. And the voltage drop under load (drop of battery % when you accelerate) may be worse than at higher temps. This means you might get low battery warning beeps on acceleration earlier than in summer. But the reading of the battery percentage/voltage (same thing) itself is correct. You won't suddenly be stranded at 50% battery or so. The 50% battery will just appear a bit earlier than usual

Sent you a PM. I believe "No insurance" is the same as what I meant. Basically you only get a license plate if you have insurance, and the opinion says that doesn't apply to EUCs. I think it's the same, but I'm not 100% sure of the details. I hope I'm not remembering anything wrong No guarantees!

@LucasD What is your native language? (Wondering, as you are posting here in English...) You realize you do not need to give a statement? You shouldn't (nothing to win there), or at the least keep it very short, and do it in writing. As far as offenses go: in the very few cases we have, the offense was "Fahren ohne Zulassung" (or something like that) which means the vehicle not having a type approval (the thing a vehicle gets a license plate for, if needed). There may or may not be a legal loophole that this does not apply to electric unicycles specifically (see below), so there is a good chance you actually didn't commit this offense. The other potential offense would be driving without a license, but if you have a license, this doesn't apply to you either (if you don't, legally that's clearly an offense). I have not heard of any other offenses in the context of riding an electric unicycle. - Legal loophole: According to one interpretation of the law regarding type approval (combination of EU law and German law), a self-balancing vehicle is not a KFZ (Kraftfahrzeug, like cars and motorbikes and...), but a separate category of vehicle (self-balancers). So a missing KFZ Zulassung does not apply to you. As far as a Zulassung for a self-balancer is concerned, the German law only mentions self-balancers with two or more wheels (Segway) because our politicians/public officials are retards (luckily, in this case). So in this case, this also doesn't apply to you. Summary: you don't need a Zulassung for a EUC (one-wheeled self-balancer), so you didn't commit the offense of not having one (which doesn't even exist for EUCs). There is a legal opinion by a Prof. Grosskopf stating this. I can PM you more info on this if you want, but I'm not a lawyer. - What you should do (I'm not a lawyer, this is my personal view): Don't do anything until you get a written letter. Say nothing until you are told which offense you supposedly committed. If the police ask you to make a statement anyways, tell them you first want to know which offense they accuse you of. Do not give them any ideas! Wait what they say. Please note that the police have absolutely nothing to decide here, only the district attorney (Staatsanwalt = the guy who is doing all criminal proceedings). They cannot say "Then it's ok". Only the Staatsanwalt can do this. All relevant discussion should be with the Staatsanwalt only. The police only try to get information out of you for the Staatsanwalt to use, but since you're accused of something, there is nothing that you are required to tell them. So don't say too much unless you know for sure it works in your favor. If the offense is driving without a drivers license, well nothing you can do. (I assume you have a regular car driving license) If the offense is driving without type approval (Fahren ohne Zulassung), tell them you believe this does not apply to you, and that you would fight any attempt at prosecution in court and will not accept even a minor fine (that would be the hard line, take-no-prisoners stance). Alternatively, let the "Fahren ohne Zulassung" proceed and see how it goes. You either mention at a convenient point that you believe this does not apply to you, or maybe there is even no fine or proceedings anyways, so everything turns out well (this would be the softer stance, probably the better idea, because you can always transition to the hard-line stance later, but not vice versa). Anyways, you had good reason to believe you were in the right (existence of a likely loophole), which is something you can mention when it helps. Be strategic with when and what information you give.

Sorry that was a bug then. I alone would have approved it every single day, had it been visible. And other mods are here daily, too. We have a queue that shows all unapproved posts, and apparently yours wasn't shown in it. Hope the wheel you asked about isn't sold yet due to the delay

Hi, you can send PMs now if that was the problem. If you mean that your public post itself wasn't approved, that must have been a forum bug. You weren't visible in our approval queue then, despite having an unapproved post. Sorry. This only happened once before and there's nothing we can do about such bugs except wait until the forum software provider fixes them If a post takes too long to be approved, you can always ask (like you did here) or report your own post to get the mods' attention.