meepmeepmayer

I thought the wheels are the same. The 14S just has a bigger battery, which results in the wider side bumps and a maybe 2kph difference in some firmware speed limits. Anyways, they came out about the same time, so the 14D/14S is "one" model.

SF or LA? SF: every weekend - https://baesk8.club LA: wait till Marty announces them next summer

I just posted someone else's video, I wasn't there!! The Rev Rides guys don't post on this forum I think, but you can contact them via a Youtube message or via reddit (they originally posted the video there): https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxvvNY_fefMxrEHQGJeFZ1w/videos https://www.reddit.com/r/ElectricUnicycle/comments/duwkr9/our_rev_rides_vlog_post_from_the_2019_la_euc Taylor Moats @TMoats was also seen there filming and hasn't released a video (yet), so he might have footage, too. Also, Who has footage of the "Singing in the Rain" umbrella performance? Please contact @Roll_On he'd like to have footage of his performance. Some other people might have filmed. Good luck!

The 16S v2 comes with a disengagment functionality. But it's not a button (on the handle at least) but happens when you lift the wheel by the handle (which presses a tiny button inside the wheel). That's nitpicking though. OP is just looking for a 16S v2

Yes, the foot on the pedal. I used to push against the wheel body with the side of my knee without rotating it, and it doesn't work nearly as well as rotating the knee inside does. That's all I wanted to say.

Ideally you only touch the wheel via the pedals. In the extent that this makes sense for your wheel's geometry. I meant that you keep balance when riding one-legged (aka when free mounting) by rotating your knee in and then pushing against the wheel with the front of your leg (more or less), not simply by pushing your leg inside towards the wheel but not rotating your leg/knee. It's a conscious step (at least if you've been doing it "wrong" before, like I did) to do it like this, and it helped me greatly going from precarious balance while free mounting to easy balance while free mounting.

The price has been changed after this post.

Free mounting is hard. Don't expect too much from yourself, it takes time. Seems you're doing well already! The ideal stance and foot position is defined by being in balance (center of gravity over the wheel, so it stays still) while you're standing relaxed with minimal muscle tension. So the wheel doesn't do anything that you would have to counter, resulting in a less relaxed stance, less control, etc. It's not hard to imagine how a frantic free mount can result in less good stance and subsequently worse feeling of control. Maybe that also somehow transfers to your assisted stances? Don't overthink and just do what feel the right thing to do. Be it further free-mount training or just ignoring that and riding. Also, be aware how one-legged riding (free mounting is very short one-legged riding) works. You don't only put pressure on one side of the wheel with your leg, you literally (and consciously) rotate your knee in to push on the wheel's side with the front of your leg (approximately), not the side of your leg. It makes a huge difference. This video is very good in general and also shows the knee rotation ("tuck your knee in") nicely.

Just pad your wheel to oblivion while you're learning. From high-end EUC bodyguard to random pieces of foam/cardboard and duct tape, everything works. After a few weeks you can remove the padding. And don't train inside unless you want to ruin your walls and furniture Find a nice wide free-of-every-distraction place outside, and remember: speed stabilizes you. Do not muddle around at walking speeds, that's much harder compared to higher speeds. You wouldn't try to learn to ride a bicycle by limiting yourself to walking speed, would you? Don't be afraid of speed.

I assumed that a) 84V is full (like they used to do, but apparently here it's 83V) and b) that they go linearly between 63V and 83V (then at least 2V would be 10%) Neither is true for that table. So KS did... some formula. Maybe related to a realistic discharge curve? Another mystery in the world of EUCs

edit: not true, see @RoadRunner post below 16X only: 84V 100% 83V 95% 79V 76% 75V 57% 71V 38% 67V 19% 63.25V 1.2% 63V 0% The voltage measurements aren't nearly good enough for this level of detail though. So real results may vary.

Downtown where?

Removed by @Aneta. I don't know why. We can restore it if that's ok with her.

Haha didn't notice. I guess the old gear (or lack of some gear) was part of the iconic Marty look.

@Sebrios Please add an English Translation if you post in other languages. Google Translate:

The (in my opinion) most important feature of wrist guards is that they must slide along the ground instead of ram your arm into your shoulder. So if the snowboarding gloves have plastic slide plates on the palms, great. If not, I'd be worried about being abruptly stopped by the friction of the fabric on the ground in a crash, which is exactly what you do not want. Wrist guards really act as palm and arm and shoulder guards with EUCs. Your wrists aren't really in danger, as you don't bend your wrists in a crash. That's different from snowboarding, I believe there breaking the wrists by overbending is the main concern. - Sowing some plastic slide plates on snowboard gloves might be a nice compromise.

Will we ever see the classic jeans and white shoes Marty again?

Nice! I like the quick links at the bottom like "What's the fastest", very useful. This brings to mind's @AtlasP's excellent overview spreadsheet. You can find a ton of data there. Direct link: https://onedrive.live.com/view.aspx?resid=5C7F7C96B9CB240D!453580&ithint=file%2cxlsx&authkey=!AH72KLYXambSLHc

Well I guess you could have a "Do you want to waste your battery and have more oomph?" ride mode option. Not a bad idea, some people might like it.

Do you mean a further iteration of the MSX, or simply the next msuper? The 21700 MSX could be seen as the latest MSX iteration. For a new msuper, I would like to see: New design from scratch that is more ergonomic and allows for various battery configurations (instead of shoehorning them in later) and is just overall more professional (e.g. cable management). Better trolley handle. Better seated option. Proper motorcycle-level lights instead of the meek flashlights we have now (that applies to all wheels). I believe that's just unrealistic. Or would need painful amounts of battery to accelerate. Some more focus on torque would certainly be nice, though. I don't believe this is possible. How is an app setting supposed to change how the motor is built? The number of windings/magnets, the wiring thickness and so on decides how a motor behaves. Electric cars have gearboxes for this reason. A simple BLDC electric motor that behaves well at low speeds and at high speeds just doesn't seem possible. (I don't want geared EUCs, though, too problematic in various aspects.)

Redundancy discussion from here split into its own thread:

Found on reddit:

Not my video. Really nice video about the LA EUC Games by a channel I've never heard of before.

Looks like the V10 will be upgraded with a bigger battery. 750Wh instead of 650Wh, using 2550mAh quality cells instead of 2200mAh ones (which apparently weren't of too high quality). See here in the @EcoDrift disassembly photos of a new V10: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ru&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fecodrift.ru%2F2019%2F11%2F12%2Finmotion-v10-snova-na-sklade-dorabotki-i-novyj-akkumulyator-750vtch%2F

Here are some @EcoDrift disassembly photos of a preproduction V8F (without the final motor): https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ru&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fecodrift.ru%2F2019%2F11%2F07%2Finmotion-v8f-razbiraem-i-sravnivaem-s-v8%2F