meepmeepmayer

That makes very little sense. Your hands aren't going to shoot out in front of a stopped glove. Would have to be an extremely thin glove like a surgical glove. Not what keeps your fingers warm in winter.

Just do it. Nothing is more fun and makes you learn faster than challenging yourself. And group rides are next level fantastic on their own. There's a group ride every Saturday e.g.: https://baesk8.club/. They have Onewheelers, which are slow and need frequent charging breaks (which you can use to simply have a break, or catch up). So I guess it's not like a high speed race. And group rides are slower overall anyways with all the breaks and coordination/waiting going on. @Alien Rides can say more. And even if it's too much for you, you can always leave and promise to come back after a bit of practice, nobody will blame you for that (I maintain this won't be necessary and you'll be fine). In that case, a call for newbies in the Local Meetup forum might work for the Bay area which has a high rider density. But try a group ride first (or combine the two and do a call for newbies at an existing group ride, I'm sure others are in the same situation and would appreciate). edit: In my opinion, all that is needed to join a group ride in public is Basic proficiency = having control where and how fast you go. Just going straight and curves and stuff. Enough safety gear so you're not afraid and tense and distracted by this aspect. Maybe a bit of practicing quick/surprise braking. Just kicking the wheel in front of you and letting your body fall back to get a fast backwards lean. This is simply so you don't panic in the face of an unexpected obstacle and run off and the wheel tumbles into a car or so, but brake in some way instead. Everything else can be controlled by not going too fast.

Really nice comparison video of the V10F, 16X, and Nikola. By EUCO.

If the wheel switches on at all, and doesn't beep like crazy when on, that number is wrong.

I don't think the wheel would even switch on if the voltage was that low. More likely the display is defect or just buggy at the moment. Look at a precise app (Wheellog), what does it say about the charge status (not voltage, but battery %)? Charge it to full and see how everything looks then.

There are lots of EU shops, and even some Ali sellers with EU warehouses. Just search around.

Good idea In order of importance: nice sliding wrist guards, then come knee pads and a helmet (full face ideally), then everything else you may want.

Gloves should always be under the wrist guards, so the plastic slide plates can slide unimpeded in a crash. The gloves would stop your hands instantly in a crash, leading to nasty shoulder injuries. Sliding is the main purpose of wrist guards for EUCs (as well as palm protection). Breaking the wrists is really unlikely in a EUC crash, you wouldn't need wrist guards just for that possibility.

1rad custom quality batteries with better BMS for about 1€/Wh... you really can't complain about that! Still expensive of course, but fair territory. And if I had the money to spare, I'd already have ordered that thing Well, do you want a Nikola or MSX? Personally, I say 2700Wh (in Gotway math) > 2200Wh (I guess that is 1800 + 450 = 2250Wh?). The MSX seems quite expensive in comparison to this.

The Marty Backe effect. I'm serious. Does the same apply to the MCM5? Also the mten3 might be too expensive over here - it's like 1150€ at Speedy, too much (real and psychological) for a "toy" wheel. You want one, you order from Ali (which I guess doesn't count as Euro sale).

Congratulations - nice wheel and progress! Please wear some serious protection at these speeds. Also, don't ride that fast just yet. You will have no idea how to properly brake in a surprise situation. Safe EUCing lives from having a lot of learning situations at low enough speeds so the consequences are not that bad. That won't work at 25 or 30mph! How about a self-imposed 30-35kph (19-22mph) limit for the first 1000-2000km? (With some speed bursts where appropriate... when nothing can happen, including surprise bumps you don't see.) Get an app like Wheellog that displays individual battery percentages. And consider yourself at 50% of range/the point of no return at about 60% battery (that would be 90.9V). Or maybe even 65%? Range is also an intuitive thing, you'll learn how far your wheel takes you for how you ride.

Well, I looked at the price. 2750€. I guess that's... fair actually.

Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet!!!!!! You can get 900Wh in the top!!!! I'm not even looking at the price...

There's been a report of the notification system not working. If you are having problems with the notification system, please post here. For example: No notifications (Heavily) Delayed notifications Multiple copies of the same notification clogging up your queue Anything else you notice! Occasionally, this stuff can happen. It usually goes away after a few days. Please inform us here if you see such problems (especially if it persists), so we know and can investigate if this happens to multiple members. Thank you!

For the (physically) smaller 18650 pack, they already had to cut away some plastic. I don't see how a full 900Wh 21700 pack would fit. But you could build a custom 450Wh pack for 2250Wh altogether. Maybe their upcoming Tesla-like wheel will have two 450Wh packs, then you could take one and put it in this Nikola.

You can help us give you the right advice by telling us what you see yourself doing with the wheel. Use cases, distances, speeds, ... Why do you want a EUC? Do you have limited money, or do you simply not want to spend more than X on a new thing? Is there any wheel you secretly like (you don't have to know why)?

I would marry this sentence if I could

Sweet sweet!

The ACM has different board, motor, pedal hangers, shell, battery packs. The most notable common part were the pedals. So yeah, the Tesla was not the "new" ACM. It was a new-wheel side-upgrade in the same diameter class. (The ACM2 came after the Tesla and simply used the Tesla motor and board type on the ACM.) More on topic, even the old ACM has been seen with 15k km over 2 years ago. So no worries about longevity with all wheels, old or new. If the rider doesn't bang one up too badly, nothing else will stop it.

Google Translate: Hi, I have error 18 on my ninebot segway scooter and I don't know exactly what I have to do. Can someone explain specifically to me? - Please add an English translation if you post in another language.

You can PM now

This is my personal opinion and may be contentious (saying this just so nobody complains), but I have to be clear here: Get rid of the kiddie wheel and get a Tesla! The difference between a V8 and Tesla is the difference between a fun-but-limited toy and a serious performance wheel. The Tesla is not simply a little heavier wheel with a higher top speed. It's a completely different level of ride (and safety!), despite the design being 2 years old now (still over a year younger than the V8). Doesn't sound like you realize it's not just a faster V8. It is an entirely different beast. The V8 is for people who want low weight (and price), period. Then they have to live with low speeds and a low safety margin, and must be lighter than the average rider. A Tesla will hold for as long as any other wheel: besides mechanical damage you do to it, there's no concern. So stop wasting your time contemplating if you should upgrade, and do so quickly! I'd maybe recommend a newer wheel like an MSX, Nikola, 16X, 18XL; but if you want a lower weight than these fatties and a more manageable size, the Tesla makes more sense for you. (There's literally only one reason not to upgrade right now: in a few months, we might see Gotway's new city-commuter type of wheel (16 incher, slimmer and presumably lighter than the Nikola). This may be a Tesla successor, or more of a sidegrade. It's the only reason not to order a Tesla today.)

Those "cracks" are by design. These are simply separate shell parts. They allow sliding out the motor (e.g. for a tire change) without disassembling the two wheel halves (only remove those two small pieces of plastic instead). A big improvement to previous Gotway wheels where a tire change meant a complete disassembly (fully separating the two halves of the shell).

Courtesy of @The Fat Unicyclist. He says 5mm hex key for the pedals and a regular philips screwdriver for the rest, and some plastic thingies for the pads. Also: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=kingsong+14d+disassembly , 14M 14D 14S all works the same.

Lifespan: till you buy a new wheel. Applies to all brands. We still don't have any old age failures, even on old tech wheel models with 25k km or so.