meepmeepmayer

I don't know the details. The whine is produced by the motor coils vibrating in the PWM frequency of the motor control... well at least as far as I know. I always assumed they upped the frequency to something inaudible to get rid of the whine. But maybe it's a different mechanism like the modified wave forms or more glue.

They modified their motor before release to fulfill the much requested 50kph top speed (originally planned was 45kph), which lead to 2200W rated instead of 2000W. Specs have errors on pretty much every site I know, ewheels included. The 16X has always had the 2200W motor.

No surprise as it would be the motor coils vibrating that cause the audible whine (or not). Yes, all KS without the 2200W motor of the 16X have the whine. - Happy to see this kind of Gotway-style iterating from Kingsong.

No moronic shims? What has the world come to?! Gotway need to copy this asap.

Well it's an optimization problem. Your total costs (depending on the average speed) are gas costs + how long you take * how much $/h you would earn working in that time. How that cost curve looks depends on the exact numbers. Gas costs are simple, just your average speed and how much gas you use then for the entire distance. The second part is more complicated and discontinuous. Which hours can you work if you save a certain amount of time? Time needed suddenly jumps with an extra gas stop. Etc. It gets complex soon (as complex as you want it). But you could write a computer program to give your costs for a given average speed. How the resulting curve (of costs over average speed) looks depends highly on the exact numbers, specifically how much $/h you make when working. And you want to minimize your costs (I guess?). Basically, if you have a high paying job, drive as fast as possible because the extra time saved is worth more to you as you can work in that time and earn a lot of extra $$$. The less you earn, the more important a cheap trip becomes, and you go slower. If you're a poor earner, go as slow as possible. So the cost curve falls with average speed if you're rich (so go as fast as possible), grows with average speed if you're poor (go as slow as possible because your time isn't worth much but gas savings are), and has some optimum average speed somewhere in the middle if you're a middle earner. (How the curve looks exactly may be a bit messy because of the discontinuities, but this should be the big picture). I hope that's right. It's an optimization problem. Not sure if you can simplify it into easy algebra without leaving too many details out for a longer distance ride (e.g. When could you actually work in the saved time? How many sleep and rests stops? How much do they cost and how do they change the time needed?) TLDR: Compare $/h of what you earn and $/h of what the trip costs (gas costs divided by time needed) at a certain speed. Drive as fast as possible without exceeding your $/h earned. Whether $/h net earnings and $/h for the trip costs is easy to compute depends on how detailed you make your calculation. But for short/simple trips it might be easy enough to do on paper.

80x Hey I'm not doing your math homework Given that the question is incomplete (how fast should you drive to do what?) and the numbers are... interesting (10 gallon car? 20 min to fill up?), I say stick to the speed limit for smooth traffic flow

If drag coefficients were size-dependent, they would make little sense because everything would have it's own drag coefficient. E.g. every person has their own coefficient, depending on how tall they are. Coefficients would be useless then because they would not allow you to predict anything and you'd have to measure everything on its own. As you can see from the table, it doesn't list "small bird, slightly bigger but still small bird, little bigger bird, ..." but just "bird" for the shape of a bird, independent of size. Drag coefficients encode the shape (and surface material friction and what else counts for air resistance) of what you're looking at, exactly because this is (as found by experiment, this can't be guessed) a fixed constant. The formula you linked to is essentially the definition of a drag coefficient: leaving all that varies and cannot be expected to give the same result for wind resistance (such as speed and specific surface area), we find something that is constant and therefore allows predictions. So a drag coefficient tells you how "efficient" a certain shape is (super aerodynamic vs. like a parachute), but does not tell you how efficient a certain thing in that shape is, because that also depends on the size of the thing. Size is given by the surface area perpendicular to the movement direction. Bigger = more absolute air resistance (and therefore power usage etc.). - Side note: Since the formula only gives the drag force, but power is force times speed, the wind resistance power usage grows cubically with speed! Crazy! I didn't know that. Double the speed for 8 times loss due to wind resistance That shows why wind resistance is the main power draw for EUCs. A good argument for seated riding. - More on topic, I'm surprised that a car gets so close to a EUC if you put more persons in it. But I guess that is only air resistance. Accelerating and decelerating that huge mass will have to cost something, too.

Fixed links: https://www.linkpicture.com/view.php?img=LPic5dc1d1941bc221406475211

How else would you listen to music than with your feet?

Small correction fyi: the 16X seems to have 4.1 speakers, not 6.1 as the EcoDrift article says. 3 of the 7 speakers are actually the same (the front grill one) so it's "only" 5 speakers. Someone in another thread corrected me on this. So you'd only have to replace 5 speakers. Given the specific shape of the speakers, this might be a tricky endeavor.

I'm shocked how expensive the 16S is here in Europe. I expected it to be around 1200€ for 840Wh, not 1400 or 1500! There might be some offers on Black Friday (end of November), and the Chinese new year (end of January) can bring some huge discounts from Ali/Chinese sellers. But I can't guarantee anything. Unless you want a 16S and nothing else, maybe for the same money you have more options then. I suspect he is just selling off unwanted inventory (nobody wants anything but the 840Wh). In general, discounts from Euro sellers are quite rare (usually only if you pre-order a newly released wheel). But the 16S will not get more expensive than the eunicycles price anyways. So you can't miss anything.

1rad is 1450€ for 840Wh. eunicycles.eu is 40€ cheaper. Both are very highly regarded as far as I know. Speedyfeet and the official/French sites are also highly regarded but too expensive. I don't know about erides or Ali. Make sure your 16S is a 16S v2 (with lift functionality and a better/metal handle). That can explain some price differences (between v1 and v2).

That's what I originally meant to say A model car and a real car have the same drag coefficient (C_d), but not the same profile area (A). That's why they don't have the same drag/wind resistance/power usage at a certain speed. Same for a person who has a smaller surface area than a car, so (I say) despite a higher drag coefficient he has less "wind resistance" than a car.

Völlig egal. Bloss nicht auf 100% laden und dann bis April so stehen lassen (das lieber bei 40-80%). Und wenn du ein super gutes Gewissen haben willst, dann halt nicht länger als vielleicht eine oder zwei Wochen mit 100% rumstehen lassen, sondern vorher paar km fahren. Ich denke mir immer, wenn schon Helm, dann gleich richtig. Ist genau so nervig (bzw. nicht wirklich nervig). Das Geraffel nervt in der Tat, aber der Helm ist da eher das kleinere Problem, ist schnell auf- und abgesetzt.

I think this is just language confusion. By drag I ultimately mean the power usage due to air resistance, which is proportional to drag coefficient times profile area. And a car has a much higher profile area in direction of travel than a person.

The drag coefficient is per profile area. You don't have more drag that a car, especially the suburban tanks sold nowadays. You're right that energy per distance is a measure that should be looked at then.

On topic, yes I hate it when people discuss "electric vehicles", I get excited, and then it just ends up being electric cars. They have all the problems of cars, minus the combustion-related ones (well, depending where the electricity comes from). An electric SUV is still a f****ing SUV. Maybe electric vehicles need a Wh/km (kJ/km, Wh/mile, whatever) rating for typical use. Then electric cars don't look so good, I bet. Your idea of how much % is used for the rider as opposed to the vehicle itself is also a great way to quantize it, and one that is simple, easy, and can hardly be cheated

I appreciate your thoughtfullness considering where to post this, as evidenced by you posting it in the forum rules section But you want it in General Discussion so I moved it there

Immer Aufladen. Vollere Batterie = mehr maximale Leistung = mehr Reserven = mehr Sicherheit. Ist NICHT wie ein Auto, dass sich bei vollem und leeren Tank genauso verhält. Gerade bei der kleinen V8 Batterie, die ist eh nicht sonderlich stark, die sollte so voll wie möglich sein. Was man nicht immer tun sollte (aber so schlimm ist es auch nicht) ist das wheel auf 100% zu laden und dann so ewig stehenlassen (also nicht benutzen). Man sollte Batterien nicht voll oder nahezu leer längere Zeit (wochen- und monatelang) aufbewahren. Dann altern sie schneller (angeblich). Das ist alles. Wenn man das wheel bald wieder benutzt, gibt es keinen Grund, es nicht jedesmal zu laden, wenn man eh kann (z.B. daheim). Laden hat dann nur Vorteile. Das heisst nicht, dass man das wheel nicht runterfahren sollte, oder dass man ab 50% Batterie Angst kriegen muss, oder dass du dir Stress machen sollst und dein Ladegerät überall hin mitschleppen sollst. Aber Laden schadet NIE, wenn man das wheel eh bloss schnell einstecken muss. - Wenn die Batterie leer ist und du die Warnpiepser und Tiltback ignorierst (falls möglich), dann beschleunigst du irgendwann, das wheel kann nicht mehr mit, und du fliegst nach vorne auf die Fresse. (Bei der Gelegenheit möchte ich erwähnen, dass Hand(gelenk)schützer die absolut wichtigste Sicherheitsmaßnahme überhaupt sind. Hoffe du benutzt welche.)

You need a new motor. Where did you buy the wheel from? ewheels certainly has spare parts, but I don't know if they'll sell you a motor if you didn't buy the wheel from them. But it can never hurt to ask (if you didn't buy from ewheels in the first place).

You can re-seat the tire (deflate, wiggle the tire around so it's on right and evenly, inflate). You should note that it's only the tire that rotates unevenly, not the motor itself. But this kind of unevenness is completely unproblematic if you don't notice it during riding (in the form of repeating small "bumps" that come faster with speed). Most likely that's the case for you. No need to even reseat the tire. Also this is pretty much standard tolerances for electric unicycles today, so nothing out of the ordinary.

As posted on https://www.facebook.com/groups/gotway and https://www.facebook.com/GotWay.Levi, Gotway updated their website after... 3 years of nothing? http://kebye.com/ If you have problems reaching it with the direct link, search Google for "kebye.com", you can reach it this way (this might be Chinese firewall related?). It's quite nice, with specs and variants of all wheels listed. The Android app download is a direct .apk download, the iOS link leads to the App Store. If you're looking for the Android app, you can also download it from the Play Store here without sideloading. Not sure if it's the same version or which version is newer. You can also download the old, non-social Gotway app posted by @Marty Backefrom the Download section of this forum. Anyways, after the initial wheel configuration, third party apps like Wheellog/World of Electric unicycles (Android) or Darknessbot (Apple) are much better for daily usage.

Where do you get the 84.1V number from? Charger display? Anything above 84V is just to compensate for losses between where that number is displayed and the batteries. If the charger charges to 84.1V on one wheel and 84V on the other, presumably that means that the BMS stopped the charging as the battery is full? My charge doctor displays up to 84.4V with my ACM.

Hard to say what was the best part, but @Jeffrey Scott Will just straight up trolling his opponent in sumo was hilarious

@Alien Rides Wow that is a fantastic video! And some really nice long moving shots! Amazing event as well.