meepmeepmayer

Two... one for each pack.

Do you have a picture of it? Curious how it looks. Usually, shudder indicates the board is loose and moves against the pedals (causing erratic and possibly self-amplifying input to the tilt sensor). It may be loose board screws or some cracks in the shell allowing the board to move.

Gotway wheels report false voltages so the shitty Gotway app is compatible with all wheels without knowing which wheel it is (it doesn't know). Scale everything up by 20/16 = 1.25 for the correct voltage on a 84V wheel. (On a 84V Gotway, voltages will be between 84V = full battery and 66V= empty battery.) What app are you using exactly? There might be an option to correct the false voltages (Wheellog has it). And again, these voltage readings are NOT precise. The measurement uncertainty can easily be 1V (this alone is ~5% battery), and that's before any voltage drops or other things happen while you ride the wheel. So trust what the numbers tell you (full battery, empty battery, power spike, etc.), but don't believe the exact numbers

The wheel can do it. Some rough estimates: The theoretical continuous power output of the Tesla battery (at 10A per cell) is 3360W at full charge. The theoretical max output of the Tesla battery (20A per cell) is 6720W at full charge. The motor is rated at 2000W continuous and can put out much more than that for short times, like 4000W or even more. So the numbers are realistic, and there's nothing wrong with such high numbers. Your wheel can do it (for short bursts). But these readings are not very precise, and very short term spike readings are going to be even more off. So don't take this as what really happened inside the wheel. But you do know your wheel can put out a lot of power if needed.

When I first got my full face helmet, it was the same for me. It was a bit confusing and unsettling (scary is much too strong of a word). After a few hours, I got used to it, and I never thought about this ever again (till now... since you mentioned it). So it's no problem at all, after a few rides you will adapt completely Use the helmet you have and enjoy the protection.

Nice! There's a lighter wheel with range again! What's the source of the information?

By the way, learning takes a lot of time.It seems you're doing quite well. So don't be discouraged by these initial hickups or idiosyncrasies of the wheel or whatever is going on.

No need to do it unless there is some pedal-levelness thing going on, just like in your case. It's somewhere in the app. I think it has instructions on how to do it (lean the wheel onto its shell and then calibrate). Comfort is a bit more sophisticated, classic is the old, simpler algorithm (I think). Can't hurt to see if your mysterious tiltback appears in both. That's how soft or hard the pedals react to your input. Either instantly and they stay rock-hard and level, or they are softer and have a bit more swing to them and everything is more relaxed. A matter of what you prefer. - As always, your seller can also help if your wheel has a (potential) problem)

That tiltback shouldn't be there. Not an error you could be making (how would you even do that?) Try recalibrating the wheel, and if the mysterious tiltback persists, try to find out more when that appears. Maybe it's also a feature/bug of one of the ride modes? Try the different ride modes.

You're using the Inmotion app, right? Not the ooooold Solowheel app? Or is changing the light colors not app-related?

Moved to Inmotion forum for better visibility. Also made your title more meaningful

Agreed! You need a serious wheel for the required speeds and range. V10F, Tesla, or even bigger. None of the "smaller" wheels will work.

I didn't read this thread. Can you guys agree that this is over? Everyone has a right to an opinion. Even a really stupid one. Even a moderator. As does anyone else. (At first glance, of 3 people involved, everyone posted something really dumb in my opinion.) The real question is, what does this have to do with the 16X?

Point taken. Let's agree this is extremely rare then As a new rider, I was worried about this, too. Every time, a blade of grass or a little twig or pebble made a sound in the wheel well I got scared. Well, turns out tire blockage isn't really a thing.

One crash and you're out of $600 That may limit its practicality. But I guess that applies to all 360 cameras costing non-neglegible amounts.

Never heard of an obstacle blockading a wheel, crashing the rider (and possibly frying the board). Very occasionally , some twigs can get in the wheel well and produce a sound until you remove them. Just like your rock. I think you just had really bad luck. If this happens regularly to you, maybe some kind of brush (think nail brush) fastened to where the tire enters the shell might help prevent bigger stuff from getting in? But I doubt it's necessary.

30km needs like 500-600Wh. A standard estimate is 20Wh/km if you don't go too fast (over 30kph). Do not trust advertised range, it is usually grossly overstated (only works if you weigh under 50kg and stay below 20kph). Between those two, I'd go for the V5F, too, because it's cheaper and makes more sense than a small-battery MCM5. But it won't give you what you want, you need a bigger battery for the full route.

Really? The original glue board already had 65°C? I totally forgot that...

Wow, thanks. You mean the 2020 LA Marty Tours? I would definitely come if I have enough money to spare!

I believe the fan kicks in around 40°C. @Marty Backe will know.

65° was just a panic reaction after Gluegate.

I believe the sound has nothing to do with dog behavior. My ACM has a whine and dogs are usually completely surprised by the thing if I overtake from behind. I used to think dogs have superb hearing and hear you before you even see them. Now I know better. I guess some dogs just want to play or have some hunting reflex when they see you riding a EUC. Not sure if the sound plays a role at all. More the unexpected/unknown shape and movement, maybe?

No, I don't believe so. The difference between the V10 and V10F battery is only the capacity of the battery cells used. So it's not like you can add some more battery packs, you have to replace the entire battery with a completely new one ($$$), and have a useless battery left over. The V10F has a bit different motor (at least the rating), so I guess for a full upgrade you need a new motor, too? Not sure if the firmware is the same and detects a V10 or V10F, or you need a new board with the adapted firmware, too (even though the board is the same otherwise). Selling the V10 and buying a new V10F is going to be much more cost-effective (and the result will be certain). Even if you just have to replace the battery pack with a new one, this is probably going to be crazy expensive already. (As always, if someone proves me wrong, I wouldn't complain)

Go to your profile page and set the image via the button. Desktop: Click your name on the top right, and in the menu select "profile". The "profile photo" button is on the top left of your profile. Mobile: Tap the "hamburger" menu button on the top right, and select "account" -> "profile". The button to set your profile image is on the top left of your profile.

The last info on 126V was that Gotway couldn't get 126V to work (see the 126V Nikola thread). So don't expect anything on this front. The Tesla successor is probably the next wheel coming from GW. So I don't know if an MSX successor can be expected in 2020. And why change a top selling wheel? So either you replace your 18 inchers with a 1845Wh MSX, or you keep your wheels and wait for a possible 1800Wh MSX with 21700 cells. I wouldn't expect anything else in the next ~6 months. (Always happy if GW proves me wrong here)