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About erk1024

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/19/1967

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  • Location
    Boca Raton, FL
  • EUC
    MonsterV3, Nikola+

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  1. What you need is a box with two control boards mounted on top of the wheel. One with 1.05 and one with 1.07. Then route the wires to a switch...
  2. I think it's important for the rider to know what he/she is trying to do. In other words, if you're falling left, tilt the wheel left. When you try to do the right thing, and model the behavior you want your body to do, it helps jumpstart the (non-thinking) balance computer. But your thinking brain just can't do it fast enough. For me, after 500+ miles, it's amazing how automatic this has become. I just don't think about it at all anymore. It takes as much thinking as walking basically. It reinforces the point that like 80% of what your brain does is completely unconscious.
  3. FWIW, as soon as I fixed the fan, it works fine. I haven't come close to overheating it.
  4. The only wheel with no gyro effect I've ridden was the 18XL. On the Monster, I think I tilt the top of the wheel with my leg to get it to turn. How do people deal with the gyro effect?
  5. Are there any versions of the Monster that expose the heatsink to outside air? Also, seems like it would be an easy mod to cut a hole in the plastic shell under the control board. Then you'd have to seal up the interface with something (silicone, grommet, weather stripping) That would be true for both the Monster V2/V3 and the Nikola+ that have the control board side mounted.
  6. That's a long ride! wow. It's great you have that much range now.
  7. I got it once recently. I was at low speed and leaned a little too much apparently. I'd been riding the Monster, and that wheel you have to lean it like you mean it! The Monster is an interesting wheel. If you like to go fast, you really can't beat the stability. But maybe the 100V MSX with a big battery is the best combination of torque and stability? Nikola+ is also a great wheel. An embarrassment of riches makes for tough choices.
  8. I bet you get a bit more range out of that Nikola.
  9. Also tire pressure? Makes a big difference to rolling resistance.
  10. Thanks for the correction! So the L should get approx 40 miles or 64km. Not bad!
  11. I think @Marty Backe got 45 miles (72 km) out of his range test (going 40kph) of the XL which has 50% more battery capacity. So you should get ... 48km out of it, approximately, if you run it from 100% down to tiltback. But the wheel will start throttling the speed at ... 40% battery? I can't remember. Anyway the XL has more parallel sets of cells, so it doesn't throttle until you get down to 25%. (Of course, with the bigger battery it's a long ride before you get it down to 25%. Marty's range test was 4ish hours if memory serves.)
  12. There is plastic and 3DO material under the area where the skid plate is, so you're still protected. If you lost the skid plate, it would damage the fabric I guess.
  13. FYI, Had a couple instances to test out the skid plates on my Flexmeters, and the skid plates stayed put. The skid plates have scratches and I ground the paint off some of the rivets.
  14. I was typing the exact same thing, but @RockyTop beat me to it. Bigger battery and 6 banks of batteries instead of 4 ... meaning more current available, doesn't start throttling speed until you reach 25% capacity. It's a great all around wheel.
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