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EUC

Found 10 results

  1. Hi, my name is Mauricio, i am from Bogota, Colombia, in my country there are not much EUCs, so I have had the luck to met someone here who taught me some basics. at this time, i am able to ride, make turns, (not to tight), mount without help, brake, etc, however, I have a slight fear, if i will have to stop, mount, and go forward in the middle of a hill, (up or down) is there any consideration to take, any variation of my body inclination, for mount and start to go forward? Sorry i have had to use a little help of deepl, for write here Thanks in Advance
  2. Still very new to this (2 weeks on street). I live in San Francisco so dealing with hills important. Today went out to practice taking off from a stop and climbing hills. Battery was at 80%. While going up a steep the wheel seemed to not have enough power. It didn’t freeze but slowly came to a stop. Forum members have told me it’s a relatively underpowered wheel for 5’10” 180lb self. I’m not sure if I wasn’t riding correctly or if it not strong enough. If it’s the wheel, I may have to upgrade sooner than I thought - there are a lot of hills around here.
  3. I have never used an EUC but I'm considering using one to get from home to train, train to work, work to train, and train to home. Essentially first and last mile transportation. Obviously I'm looking for something relatively portable so I can easily take it on the train and store it inconspicuously at work. I was leaning towards the KS14D. My only concern is how well it will handle hills. My last segment of the day, train to home, involves a steady hill climb over 2.1 miles at about a 5% grade (see below). Will the KS14D have significant slowdown (down from it's 18.6mph cruising) or overheating issues for a 160lb rider on a 2.1 mile stretch like this? If so, are there other EUC I should consider as alternatives? Thanks in advance for your advice--I'm excited to one day be a less novice member of this community!
  4. I'm not sure of the best place to put this post, so I am going with the IPS section, and will link it back to other relevant places... So today I rode my Lhotz from a full charge, directly uphill to check how it handled (while monitoring the stats). Leg 1 - Uphill Starting elevation: 100m Starting charge: 100% Starting temperature: 16°C Starting load: 115kg Finishing elevation: 250m Finishing charge: ~70% Finishing temperature: 49.5°C Distance travelled: 2000m So I wheeled hard on the uphill, while watching the stats. I wanted to see what the point of failure was... And while I expected my wheel to beep me (requesting a rest) I expected it to be due to the temperature - but the reality when I got the warning was that the app was showing the battery status as <15% but the temperature was still less than 50°C. But after stopping, and allowing the wheel to recover, the status ramped back up to around the 70% mark - so after a 30 second stop I was good to go. Now I should point out that this was 1800m (at pace) into the trip, and I did not let up at all along the way (though I may have slowed down a little as I passed the bakery to check out my options for the second leg). Previously I wasn't sure whether I needed to stop due to temperature or battery drain, but this is now confirmed. I am expecting to take some flak for this, but my statement now is that, "For a heavier rider going uphil, the battery drain can be more significant than the temperature." And in my case, the load became the limiting factor well before the temperature was an issue. Interestingly, it wasn't a torque issue, as the wheel still had a lot of pull in it, but it just didn't have enough stored energy available to draw on to power through? Is this a limitation of the battery technology? Leg 2 - Downhill This was a bit more experimental... The IPS app kept crashing (and I don't think I can use WheelLog) - It seemed to crash particularly when I was on the steeper downhill sections. I wonder if this was when the motor power was a negative value (regenerating) and it didn't understand how to present that? But what I did notice is that while the app showed power usage around 15-20% (while travelling ~10km/h) I did end up at the finish line with the battery charged to around 80% . Overall, my observations (and feeling) makes me think that on the "shallow" downhill, I am still using power to actively drive, but on the steeper sections, power is flowing back into the battery as one would expect. My conclusion is that, at slower speeds with a heavier load, it requires a steeper gradient to achieve regenerative power - and a percentage is actually used on the shallower gradients to maintain a constant (slower) speed. And continuing on that thought - I was interested to note the "stopped" effort - on the flat, I can hold onto something and the motor power to keep me upright is 1-3%. But on a good hill, it is 10-15% Okay, that is me - everyone feel free to shred my comments with science - I am more than happy to be wrong, I just want to understand all of this more!
  5. Tried to climb a 19* slope yesterday ( used phone app to measure) in Cabo Roig, Spain. Man is that steep. My ks14c 800w, 340wh motor, was willing and able, but those damn pedals are so short, I was literally balancing on the front edge of them, my heels, 2" (5cm) (est.) off the rear, trying to apply enough pressure to keep climbing. FYI, I would not climb something this steep on a regular basis. It was just plain scary. If your looking to buy a wheel and comparing stats, take it from me any slope this steep will hurt you eventually, if you ride it regularly. So look at climb angle data for comparison reasons only, my 2c. anyway.. I was actually in the middle of this long hill, because I had tried riding down and thought better of it as my battery was full. So I walked it for a bit. Then I decided I didn't want to have to come back this way, so I turned around and headed up again. And that's when I said, " I wonder if I can wheel it?" Well, after a few wobbly feet, I realised that climbing a 19* concrete path perched precariously on the balls of my feet on a barely moving EUC, with dozens of concrete steps and many meters of concrete slope below me, was a recipe with pain written all over it, Images of burnt MOSFETS, shut down BMS's, and unexplained shut downs danced through my head, so I quit, and Walked it. How did @Cerbera put it? " EUC forum: If you weren't already sacred for the safety of your EUC, you will be now"? That about summed it up. As soon as I get home from my travels, I'm going to add pedal extensions, like @zlymex and maybe even toe wedges like @EU GUY. On a similar note, I was coming down a seriously steep street the other day in,... Shite, I forget where I was, anyway, I was putting so much heel pressure on the back edge of those tiny pedals that I could feel the fronts of my feet flapping around over the bumps, making almost no contact with the pedals. That was " interesting " let me tell you. yep, front AND back pedal extensions for this guy.
  6. I have been noticing lately, now that summer is over and outside temperatures are dropping, it seems to me my EUCs are running stronger. I especially notice improved hill climbing. Hills that I had to carefully coax the wheel to climb during the summer, now the wheel seems to climb noticeably easier. Is it possible the cooler air is allowing better heat dissipation from the EUC, resulting in better performance? I wonder if anyone else has noticed better EUC performance in cool weather vs. summer heat.
  7. Okay, here is a question for all of you EUC math geeks... A road runs up the side of a hill. The road is 2.5km long, with a (fairly) consistent gradient of 0.1 (10%). If a hypothetically fat unicyclist (120kg - including lunch) lived 1km (40%) up that hill and had a fully charged EUC (IPS191 - 1000W / 340Wh), how far would he have to ride UP the hill (from his home), to allow him to ride DOWN the hill to the bottom without overcharging his battery?
  8. I wondered: is there a simple calculation that can predict my range from the next properties: My weight (wheel included), battery size, and the hilliness of the route I am about to go. Roughly said, your hilly range is your normal flat range minus 75 meter for every meter up and down. Since most of you know your flat range, this will do. But I also came up with a formula for your flat range (from real world experience myself and other people on this forum): 10 km per 150 Wh (weight 75 kg) 10 km per 175 Wh (weight 125 kg) In a formula, with B = battery size in Wh and W = weight in kg, flat range is: 10.000 * (B / (150 + (W-75)/2) ) Example: you weight 87.5 kg and your Ninebot One E+ has 340Wh battery. So W=100 B=340. You go on a 15 km ride with 400 m up and down worth of hills. Will you make it all the way? flat range= 10000 * (340 / (150 + 12.5) ) = 10000 * 2.092 = 20920 m hilly range in this case is 3 km shorter (75 * 400), so you will make it.
  9. Been using a 2013 solowheel classic for 3 years--everyday, for a 5 mile commute. Where I live, it rains 150 inches per year (which is a lot), and there's much hills, including a 10 degree incline. I never had a malfunction of any sort, probably because it's well encased. It never kicks up mud since the classic has a case that acts like a fender. Some other observations: nothing on it is rusty, cracked, oily, and it's always cool to the touch. I would say the battery lasts about 60% as long as it did when it was new, so it did degrade, but it's still useable for my commute. It's not rich in features, but it has a slim design, which probably helps to ride with one foot as it's closer to the center of the vehicle. Although I've never ridden anything else, so please let me know what you think about this theory.
  10. Hey all! Great community here. Just purchased a Ninebot One E+ (shoutout to HoodRiderz) and have been having a blast riding it around. I have two issues related to hills I was hoping for some advice on: 1) When descending a steeper hill, occasionally I'll get a steering shimmy - it becomes very hard to hold the wheel on a straight line, it wants to turn sharply in either direction and any attempt to correct it results in a snap to the other side. I suspect this is due to the fact that the contact patch with the pavement is located further aft on the tire than normal, thus creating positive feedback when the unit starts to turn. Any tips on how to control this? 2) Any tips on turning on a hill? I've found turning from going uphill to downhill pretty challenging... Thanks in advance!
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