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EUC

Found 19 results

  1. Hey y'all! I've spent a year riding EUCs and ripping through upgrades (IPS i6, InMotion V8, KS18L w/Pedal Upgrade, MSX100V 1.23kWh, and now a MSX100V 1.85kWh coming in the mail). I started off thinking "bleh, I'm not a speed demon like those crazies riding GotWays" so I started off small, but I found that I really love the speed and safety of having more power and keeping up with cars at 70km/h. The big tires also lessen my fear of potholes and other road surface aberrations. Alongside my other hobbies (skydiving and alpine climbing), EUC riding is up there on my favorites list. The EUC is also a convenient tool for short errands, last-mile transport, and walking the dog. I truly believe it's the future of urban transport. So having dropped another $2k on this hobby, I'm idly pondering the future directions that EUCs will take and how they can get better. Could we get together a wish list of near-term and long-term improvements that we'd like to see on the EUCs of the future? Here's my list. Short-term: Kuji Pads standard. Besides enabling tricks like jumping up curbs, Kuji Pads are a safety feature, helping reduce foot slip when traveling over irregular terrain. Long footpedals standard. To extract the most performance (and safety) out of your EUC, the pedals need to be as long as your foot. This allows your center of gravity to shift as far forward or backward as possible, allowing the greatest control input for rapid acceleration and deceleration. It also allows you to climb and descend steeper hills. With the upgraded pedals on the KS18L, I've climbed the steepest hills in San Francisco with no complaint. The same cannot be said for the standard short pedals on the MSX. Footpedal grind guards. Pedal scrape is no joke, especially if your pedal hits a bump in the road. Danger arises from the potential for the pedal to get "stuck," causing a sudden torque and launching you off the EUC. If the pedals had low-friction grind guards on their leading edge (made of acetal or UHMWPE, for example), this would lessen the odds of getting stuck. Of course, they would be consumables. Dihedral footpedals standard. The angled dihedral footpedals of the MSX seem weird at first, but they really secure your foot against the EUC—a huge benefit for reducing foot slip when hitting unexpected bumps, or when riding one-footed. Especially if you must make frequent stops, such as when walking the dog, this latter point is important for lessening foot fatigue. They also lessen the odds of pedal scrape on sharp turns. Long-term: Higher speed. Keeping up with cars is lots of fun, but also important for safety (drivers DGAF). I'd like to see future EUCs with a top speed of 80 or 90km/h. Bigger battery. Since drag force rises quadratically with speed, you need a bigger battery to go long distances if you're going fast. I'd like future EUCs with 3kWh or more. Shock absorbers. My knees are fine, but using them to dampen the resonant tank formed by the tire's spring force and the EUC's mass can be a challenge—as a human, my response time isn't fast enough to dampen it well; I need to anticipate and prepare for the shock. Especially on poorly maintained roads, it's difficult to keep up with the repetitive and unpredictable force impulses when traveling at speed, causing anxiety about foot slip when traveling on unknown paths at night. It would be preferred if shock absorbers (important: with dampeners) were integrated into the EUC structure, especially if the battery was kept unsprung. I imagine this would result in a supremely buttery ride. Belt-drive. This one's debatable, because it introduces another point of failure into the drivetrain, but... The power you can get out of a motor is proportional to the product of its size (namely, its volume) and how fast you spin it. With direct drive, where the motor is integrated into the wheel structure, you aren't spinning the motor very fast so its power density is remarkably low. As a result, for a given power level the motor must be really big—and neodymium and copper ain't cheap. If you added gearing or a belt drive, then the motor could spin faster than the wheel and be much smaller—like a hobby motor. This would substantially reduce the cost and weight of EUCs. Additionally, the sprung mass could be reduced and it would be easier to carry around. I take pause because it adds another point of failure if the belt breaks. While a drivetrain failure on a motorcycle might cause a fall, a drivetrain failure on an EUC will cause a fall. Maybe some belt-drive experts can chime in. Foot attachment. Having dihedral pedals and Kuji pads helps to reduce foot slip, but nothing can beat a true attachment. It needn't take much force, since it would only need to prevent your feet from slipping off while catching air, so "clip-in" pedals like bicycles or skis would be unnecessary. Preferably something that can be detached easily when you need to step or jump off. My thought at the moment is to place a magnet on the pedal or the side of the EUC, and to have a small steel plate that pins to the bottom or side your shoe that is attracted by the magnet. Articulating seats. Control of acceleration on the EUC arises from your ability to translate your center of gravity longitudinally, fore or aft of the tire's point of contact. Your ankles' articulation permits this motion. Fine control of steering is done by twisting your hips (and by extension the EUC) axially against your torso's rotational inertia, and course control by lateral translation of your center of gravity to the left or right of the tire's point of contact. The former is permitted by twisting articulation in your trunk, and the latter by articulation in your ankles and hips. On a seat that is rigidly mounted to the EUC, your ability to perform these translations and rotations is greatly diminished. In this case, you are reliant on the compliance in your butt tissue, which even for those blessed with child-bearing hips is not much. As a result, your control inputs on a seat are severely limited. This endangers you since you cannot steer or decelerate as quickly as may be needed in the event of an emergency. Articulating seats that permit a few centimeters of longitudinal and lateral translation, and several degrees of axial rotation, should greatly improve this situation. Maintenance schedules. As EUCs become faster and more powerful, and as more people ride them, it becomes more critical to keep them well-maintained. Manufacturer-recommended maintenance and inspection intervals may be wise. What's your wishlist? Cheers!
  2. Okay let’s face it... for us hard core riders out there it’s been a fight between the MSX and the Z10 though personally I think it’s a superior wheel even without the detailed experience of the z10 I’ve had to make quite a few customizations to my wheel. share what you’ve done and perhaps it would inspire me and others! Here’s a list of things I’ve done: 1. Put ACM padding on my MSX 2.lowered pedal angles 3.outdoor hiking light mounted by Velcro 4.el wire(three strips u see in the pic) to be visible from the side 5. Mud guard 6. Slime into inner tube 7.put more grip tape as the ones on the pedal were wearing out.
  3. 84v msx (batteryless) Comes with 1 regular GotWay Chargers shell is a bit split in the front but any euc vet can fix with no problem or just swap the shell , and your batteries and your set , also has euc guy power pads ,if interested let me know I can shoot you some pictures. Asking for $700 great back up wheel !!! Local pickup only (Manhattan/Brooklyn)
  4. I had issues with my new MSX charger, it popped when I plugged it in and would not charge, the shop replaced it. Now my app shows 64v at 100% charge. Is that normal, is the app incorrect, did the charger damage some cells, should I test the poles on the charge port?
  5. I'm parting out my MSX. Selling whatever I can get for it. Shipping is possible but only confimed Paypal addresses. Parts: MSX Pedals (left and right) 80usd Motherboard (early batch) 100usd Motherboard (latest Aug 8 2019) 150usd Inner casings (both sides, has some damage, request pics) 60usd Outer Side Panels (both sides, 60 usd) Handle (40usd, bars and the handle itself) MSX motor Wheel (includes non working motor, pedal arms, axel)- 50usd. (the motor might be able to be fixed, no promises) Brand New BMS 84v. (You can extend the range of your battery, theres a few riders who have 84v that have beyond 1600wh in battery by adding it into the empty space) Sold: Wiring/Lighting for all 30usd Thank you PS: Prices are negotiable, within reason.
  6. These three EUCs have all sold, but there are plenty more available from eWheels! I've got three EUCs for sale. I'm in Los Angeles, California and will give you a free introductory training session, first time riders welcome, or a more advanced training session, if you're experienced. Whatever your skill level, I can help you be a better rider. If you like, I also can help you update the firmware, get the right App, connect to your smartphone, inflate the tire, and do what I can to make sure you're all set-up. No shipping charge, if we meet. Shipping cost will vary, depending on your location in the contiguous U.S. No shipping outside the U.S. 1. Ninebot One Z10 for $1475 with 3.8 miles on it and in perfect condition. Never dropped, has no issues at all. 995Wh battery. 28 MPH top speed, 25-45 mile range. I purchased it through eWheels, so if any repairs should become necessary (none needed now) it can go through eWheels. The warranty recently ran out. This Ninebot One Z10 is no longer available. It's been sold. <Pictures of it deleted> 2. GotWay MSX (Msuper X) 100V version, $1600, with 6.1 miles on it. Includes a 3D printed fender from eWheels. The MSX is in good condition, some low speed drops with minor scuffing under the pedals. Includes a new seat that has never been used. 1230Wh battery. 40+ MPH top speed, 50-60 mile range. (A new GotWay MSX 100V currently sells for $500 more, $2100 on eWheels, with a one year warranty). Warranty on this used MSX for sale is valid for six more months until March 1, 2020 through eWheels. When the warranty expires, should it need any repairs, it can be done through eWheels. I will also be available to help out, should there be any questions or issues, both before and after the warranty expires. You have double support on this wheel, triple, if you include the GotWay warranty. This GotWay MSX is no longer available. It's been sold. <Pictures of it deleted> 3. King Song KS-18XL for $1850 with no miles on it, never been ridden, still sealed in the box. 1554Wh battery. 31 MPH top speed, 60-70 mile range. Has the larger, better 10-inch pedals (factory installed) AND includes a 2nd charger. Factory warranty through King Song valid until January 1, 2020. The 18XL pictured is another one I have just like it, not the one still in the box. This King Song KS-18XL is no longer available. It's been sold. <Picture deleted>
  7. Hi Guys, I ordered the MSX 100v 1845wh from green and fashion travaling shop (Ali Express) on July 17th and I just received it today. Unfortunately it came without a charger so just left them a note, hopefully i dont have to wait another month for the charger. It does show 100% battery so i will be able to play with it for a few days. My question is how can i check that i received the right wheel? is there a way to check if it is the 100v model? and that it actually has 1845 battery? I have connected the gotway app and darknessbot but it does not give me the information i need. I do see that the voltage on standby is 66.6v on the Darknessbot app when it is not moving but not sure what this means. Any help would be appreciated..
  8. Does anyone have a working msx motor they want to sell? thank you
  9. Link: https://www.facebook.com/groups/GotWay/permalink/2477689168956057/ My Gotway MSX (84V) Battery Repair Journey Background: https://www.facebook.com/groups/GotWay/permalink/2465864426805198?sfns=mo As stated previously, I came back from a one week holiday and encountered an issue with my Gotway MSX. I realised my battery was depleting very fast despite starting my ride with a full charge. Turns out my battery has an issue and was unable to reach the full charge of 83.7V(as indicated by my own voltmeter). It was able to charge to 79.4V and my stock charger would turn green indicating full charge. Using my 3A and 5A charger did not “continue” the charge as well(both green lights), which meant all my chargers were functioning. This would only mean that one cell probably died somewhere, since the difference was almost 4.2V, the typical full charge of a 18650 cell. As I pondered what to do, either riding it as it is and risk deteriorating the battery further, or importing a brand new 20S3P 800wh pack for S$900(US$650), I realised I should check with the many reputable battery builders in Singapore. As you know, we have a lot of escooters in Singapore, and there are some people out there who have been making batteries since eons ago. I decided to go with Xoda, a custom battery builder in Singapore who has experience in building custom batteries way before we got into electric unicycles. I dropped him a message and, despite his busy schedule, he told me to just walk in anytime. When I arrived at 1100hrs, he got to work straight away diagnosing my pack even though it’s his first time working with an EUC battery. He found that one cell had indeed died and affected the surrounding cells, so 3 cells had to be replaced. It was a good thing he has Panasonic/Sanyo GA cells in stock as well. He proceeded to remove the BMS and remove the affected cells. Did a quick charge of the 3 new cells before repeating the process in reverse. Using nickel to spot weld the cells back together. Then he helped to put my pack together and gave it a new heat shrink wrap in black and then a final full charge of the whole pack. It took 1.5hrs for him to do everything and hand me back my battery pack. Back home, the first thing I did was to charge the unaffected pack on the other side of my wheel first before connecting my repaired pack. Once it was almost full, I connected back the repaired pack and reassembled my wheel cover and pedals. Then I used my stock charger to continue the charge of both packs. This is one of those times where I’m glad Singapore is a small country and glad that we have people who have the experience and know how to fix things at short notice, no matter how niche a market may be. I started my day at 10am, did a bunch of stuff, had lunch, and was ready to go wheeling by evening for a sumptuous dinner with my friends A big thanks to those who gave valuable advice along the way, notably Mathias Gran and Marty Backe
  10. Hello! Im not sure how many of the people who bought the tilted sidepads are members of this forum, but could those of you who are give me some feedback on them? Whats good, whats bad. Photos or video to show them in action, after wear.. etc. - Mathias/ EUCGUY photo by Steve jo
  11. When talking about the latest Monster v3 upgrade and the possibility of swapping the 800Wh battery packs from an older Gotway wheel, I decided to get an MSX without the battery and to swap my ACM2 batteries from 2018 to the MSX. I thought this would be a simple disconnect/reconnect task. You probably guessed already that this was not not quite that simple as I am posting this for others to read before going this route. The battery in my ACM has 3 connectors. The main current draw goes through a thick wire pair to an XT60 connector. The BMS hooks up to 4-pin connector with think wires. The battery side has 4 wires, the wheel only runs two wires from the 4-pin connector. And the third connection is a 2-pin JST connector with a red/black thin wire pair. That JST connection is the one creating a bit of a snag. (UPDATE: No, it's not a JST connector. I haven't found what it is but a JST won't fit. You could still use this adapter mentioned and linked below as a pigtail to solder on the XT30 end to the battery which is what I did.) (UPDATE2: The connector is an SM2P connector. One needs the male version to make an adapter) My battery is just about a year old, so I assume this would be a common problem for potential upgraders. This shows the connectors on the battery side (the yellow XT60 got cut off a bit, sorry): And then here's the problem when trying to attach the battery to the MSX v3: The battery JST connector is in the foreground and a bit blurry. That should hook up to the yellow connector that I am holding between my fingers. It is an XT30-U connector which obviously would not fit the JST. Now, I checked where this is connected to and it turns out that the wheel would function just fine without this hooked up. This XT30 connects to the charging port of the wheel. This is actually a nice improvement as it is not just a 30Amp connector now but also beefier wiring attached to it, so one could charge the batteries at a higher rate than the 5 Amps the JST connector is spec'ed at. However, it requires some changes to older batteries to connect, of course. I did not feel adventurous enough (or replace that with "crazy") to cut off the JST connector on the battery side as this is carrying battery voltage and a short would probably not just ruin my day but many days after that. So I ordered this adapter from Amazon to hopefully do this by just plug-and-play. Worst case, I could do soldering on the adapter and then just hook it up if it requires a male/female swap. The adapter should arrive tomorrow, so I will update my post once I have tried it. My assumption (which needs verification from someone who actually gets the latest v3 version) is that this is probably also a change that Gotway did on the v3 of the Monster. So, be aware that the batteries will not just swap over in a few minutes if you do not have an adapter at the ready. The other, rather minor, problem I found is that the battery for the ACM has its hookup wires mirrored for what they should be on an MSX. With a little bit of extra work of adding thin padding between the battery and the shell this should be no problem.
  12. Ok so, Hello again... I have just realised, the 18xl and MSuperX are the same price on Aliexpress... Do you guys have some experiences with those wheels? What wheel gets better range? I know MSX has higher top speed... For a daily commute +- 50km.... Thanks guys, have a great ride!
  13. Time for me to share my thoughts and feelings. When we aren't riding our wheels we're thinking about our wheels or reading about wheels or watching videos about wheels. Because wheels. So I ordered an MSX (1600Wh 84v) from Intelligent Walking Store in the beginning of November. It shipped out within the advertised 7 days and arrived a little over 2 months later. That's what happens when you order prior to Singles Day! I had no problem waiting though and I knew it would arrive eventually and if not... well that would be it's own process. A little about me first. I'm 45, born in Toronto, Canada. My parents are from Spain and I lived in Spain från 1987 to 1991 and from 1991 to 1993 I started the process of moving to Sweden. I am quite an anxious person. Obsessive, perfectionist, I need to be in control of everything and I have a tendency to get offended or feel shame if something doesn't work the way I want. So for instance if I listen to headphones and they don't sound the way I want I will instantly feel shame and less worth. However I am aware of this. The what and the why so I try to work around it or use it to my advantage. I work as an IT Manager for Servicedesk amongst other things. I have also recently decided to quit so that I can take a year off and think about my life and what I want to do. I am also happily married and my wife and I have been together for 15 years. Together we mountainbike, exercise, do Zumba, calisthenics and just hang out and enjoy life. We have cheap basic electric scooters, 4 electric longboards (Ownboard and Koowheel), a Onewheel, a Ninebot One E+ and now... an Msuper X. So I unboxed it, took some photos and video, turned it on and stood on it in the livingroom hallway. It growls. Instant anxiety. A bit of research later. Normal. Okay phew. Not defective. It's pulling a bit of power when idle to keep in balance. Compared it ot my Ninebot One E+. Does it do the same? No, not really. Okay it's fine. Apples and oranges. So I look out the window, no snow, some ice, +1 degrees. Start writing on the forum. My wife is in Miami for a week. I have work tomorrow. Should I ride it? Will I damage it on the snow/ice? Life is too short. Let's go! I put on layers upon layers of warm clothes, get my flashlight, bell, helmet, and so on and off I go. Almost died carrying it 2 flights downstairs. Okay I will have to work on my technique there. Just pretend it's an awkward kettlebell. I love the pedals. The cushions are the new kind but they still cut into my calves. Let them cut. The wheel feels unresponsive. I immediately start thinking of people posting about other wheels, KS16 and min dreading, MCM5 and quick responsen. I make comparisons in my mind with my One E+. Again... apples and oranges. So I ride with the tilt back at 18km/h and reach a top speed of 23,2km/h and I try to turn at around 20km/h and. Nothing. It doesn't turn. I start thinking of the Z10. Okay I need to lean. I try again, lean... it's a new feeling. I almost fall but the pedals dihedral save me. I hit a bump and remember the feeling of almost flying off my E+. The pedals save me. I try to carve... a pathetic slow carve. Mixed feelings. I think back to ny E+. When did I get good? At around 500km. When did I get good at my OneWheel. At around 500km. So... let's not make too many assumptions 10km in. 16km ride completed. Damn it was cold. I need to do something about my boots. And gloves. Day 2. Get home from work. Go for the same ride. Better turning, better speed. I wobble the wheel around me between my legs to see how much play I have side to side. I try to think about what is required of me to not have my calves touch the body of the wheel. Then I just ride. I ride to feel free. 16 km ride completed. Charge the wheel. Take screenshots of battery usage and distance driven. A bit less than 1km per 1% of battery. Reasonable considering the cold. Day 3. Saturday. Wake up and drink coffee. Check the charger. Green. Check the wheel. All charged up. Read this forum. Watch some clips. I could be out riding. Time to ride. After around 5km I raise the speed limiter. I change riding mode to soft. I look at the battery. Under 90%. Hmm.... ah well the whole world doesn't have to be linear for me not to feel anxiety. I keep riding, hit some ice, no probs, some snow, no probs. I take a break and an elderly couple stop and ask me about the wheel. I tell them that it's the best thing i've done in my life. I keep riding. The same 35km ride I have done a few times in the summer with my wife and our longboards. The wheel tilts me ever so gently at 28km/h. I hit a top speed of 29,2km/h. Stop and check the battery. It's all good. I think a bit about how hard the tire is. For my weight I could lower the pressure a bit more. I keep riding and the last 8km my feet are getting uncomfortably cold. I ride a few extra km when I get home. Total distance 36km. Battery left 55%. 55+36 = 91. Started at 100. But 100 probably was more like 97. Is this good? Is this what I wanted? It's a bit big and hard to steer. Let's not make too many conclusions i've only done like 66km on this thing. How cold is it? How much does this cold degrade my battery on my boards, OneWheel, One E+? Around one third. What's the battery temperature? 22 degrees. Okay we're good. Let's charge the wheel and chill. Day 3. Later that evening. After spending a few hours reading about electric unicycles. Checking prices on Aliexpress. The MCM5 is still looking tempting. Getting cheaper and cheaper. My Ninebot One E+ can easily do 28km/h. And climb hills. Do I really need a faster version of it? Have I even tried hills with the MSX? Trails? Well it's winter now. We'll see later on. The wheel is fully charged now a few hours later. I do some research on quick chargers. I will eventually need one. Oh yeah deflate the tire a bit! Done. Okay let's ride! So I go for the same ride that I went on day 1 and day 2. I can carve now, I can turn now. I ride over bumps to see what it feels like. Fluffy. But I bounce a bit much still. Lucky those dihedral pedals keep me locked in! I push the speed and ride the tilt back. When I get close to home I ride on a field of frozen grass and dirt. Bounce around all over the place. Go home. Check the battery. Check the mileage. Take screenshots for reference. 16.3km. 77% battery left. 77+16. 89. Started at 100. But the voltage wasn't showing 84v. So I didn't charge it for hours while green. In other words it wasn't "real 100". It's fine. IT'S FINE! Day 4. Wake up. Coffee.. Watch youtube clips about electric unicycles. Read the forum. Think about going for a ride. My wife came back from Miami. She fell asleep on the couch. Check the weather. +1 degrees. It'll be light out for another couple of hours. Meeting a friend at 5 and it's 1 now. Maybe I could go for a ride? Just going to watch NonstopNeals clip regarding the MSX. What's this note I see in the description? He didn't have it on a high power mode? A high power mode? What high power mode? I start thinking about the responsiveness of the wheel. Is it a bad thing? It shouldn't be. I don't mind throwing my weight around. It will feel more interactive to me. Yes I have small feet. I'll manage. Should I lower the angle? I guess a few of you guys will recognise some of the though patterns here haha. Anyway loving it so far! I will just continue to ride it as it is now and put 500km on it!
  14. So... I've put 200 km on my V8, (my first wheel) unlocked it to 30 km/h, and and am ready for an upgrade. It'll probably have to wait a bit, but I've been doing some research in preparation and would love some feedback! In terms of my requirements: Speed: Ridiculous speeds are not what I'm after; a 35 km/h cruising speed is fine, but I reckon I'd like to aim for a 50-ish km/h max. speed for overtaking purposes and to have an ample safety margin in terms of overleaning, accidentally hitting bumps at speed, etc. TORQUE: The main decisive factor. I live in a very hilly area, and although the V8's 30 km/h cruising speed is fine on flatter roads, and I'm impressed how well it does going up steep hills, that's not what it's made for and it does so at a sluggish pace. Aside from being able to maintain cruising speed even up hills and having a wheel that I won't melt in 6 months on this type of terrain, TORQUE is a must for in case I need to accelerate, for any reason, half way up a hill, etc. Battery/range: In the long term, I reckon I'll be doing a lot of mixed riding, from urban use to countryside, offroad, etc., so I'm after something with a decent range for touring too, and with the battery power to match the torque, needless to say (although those go hand in hand in wheel design anyway) So, my main candidates are: IM V10: Was originally on the list, and is definitely a good wheel from all I've read (and seen), but not sure it ticks all the boxes. KS18XL: Ticks the speed and range boxes, and from what I've seen, seems to be a very well balanced wheel (comfort, pedals, maneuverability), but I haven't read anything about the torque. I'm not too keen on the aggressive throttling and tiltback of the KS18L, although the XL's extra battery capacity should make battery-related throttling a rare occurrence in daily riding...(Update: confirmed > based on houseofjob's review, the throttling threshold has been lowered to sub-30% battery). Love the matte look and lights too, as well as the handle. GW MS3+ (v3.7, 1600Wh): Probably my top contender. Ticks all the boxes, I'm guessing with additional torque that the 18XL probably lacks. The 18' wheel is perfect (like with the KS18XL), as having learned on the V8, which is a tall wheel, it shouldn't be too hard, and I don't think will be much of an issue for city riding. What I don't like is the pedals' inward tilt & lack of a mudguard. Don't mind the lack of kill switch, as it isn't something I'll be using often. Have also read that it's a bit top-heavy, which isn't ideal for maneuverability. GW MSX2: Ticks all the same boxes as the MS3+. Range is better, and despite battery size, am guessing that with the MOSFET TO-247, torque doesn't suffer. Probably better for offroading, but a 19" wheel might not be the best for city riding. In short, I'm after an all-rounder that I can use for anything, that's powerful, safe (margin for overlean and overcurrent when not near top speed), and comfortable for daily use, whether in the countryside or in the city. What are you guys' 2 cents? Folks who have ridden them...what am I missing, overlooking or need to take into consideration? Thanks!
  15. Watching the dramatic slope accident with the MSX that was posted earlier and the discussions on the difficulties some riders had going downhill with the Z10, I was wondering, if we could all give some input on how to go downhill correctly. I heard people describe and saw situations where they “sit into” the downhill ride “like in a chair” and it looks to me that this was the mistake the rider in the video made resulting in his dangerous fall. Sitting into a downhill ride and putting pressure on the toes, hands high up in the air! A common mistake you see a lot in ? snowboarding. I composed some still pictures and would appreciate some input from experienced riders. Have a ?:
  16. Toronto's been hit with a lot of flooding. I've been through some rough weather with the MSX and it's hold up. After gaining knowledge of how low the motherboard sits my first solution was to duct tape around the edge of that casing to lower water getting in. Has anyone done any mods on waterproofing/resisting the msx? @Marty Backeshare your wisdom please
  17. I just finished a range test run with Gotway MSuper X 1600wh. The wheel was fully charged and ended with 6% after 98.65kms. I weigh 1350lbs, carrying a 10lb backpack. The 50% of the trip was on unpaved trail. It is almost a round trip. There was a breeze against my way most of the trip. The average running speed was about 25kph and I had a couple of rest stops. I have to say that the last several kms were not fun - I had to ride slowly and in three occlusions I pushed it up the hill for short distances. The wheel started to beep continuously when the battery level dropped below 10%. So for me the practical range is about 90km.
  18. My riding weight has been between 235-240 lbs. I purchased 9B1E+ for local trips and for use with public transit. It handled my weight well and I never had any problems including using the "flimsy" trolley. I "thought" I had no need for hi -speed, but wanted a little more speed and range so I could commute to work without using Public transit. I looked at the INmotion Glide 3 (V8), but Jason thought it would only be a marginal upgrade for my size. I watched the various, umh, "discussions" on the forum regarding speed, big batteries, range, etc. I watched with amazement (but with what I thought was with no interest to me) the videos of riders going 20, 25, 30+ mph. I thought I would be perfectly happy with a non-tilt-back 16 mph. Perhaps I would dare to go 18 mph on occasion. If I had not gotten an 18 inch wheel maybe that reality would have come true. However, I purchased a KS18L and discovered what all the talk about smooth, stable riding was about. The horrible streets and sidewalks which struck fear in me on the E+ suddenly became annoying bumps at best. I found myself rushing to get the miles in to unlock the 50 kmh speed. What had happened to me? This was insane. No one should go over 16-18 mph on these machines. I have set my one alarm to 40 kmh and tilt-back at 45 mph .. but why would i have them so high? What are the new wheels doing to us? My rational mind knows the danger of a cut-off at those speeds! I was following some bikers today (while doing a 30 mile ride) and was cruising at 24 mph thinking I was at best doing 20 mph (no alarm until 25 mph). I need a watch or wrist mountable gps to track my speed.! We may argu .. discuss the pros and cons of our chosen new generation wheels, but one thing they all have in common - "They all float .. ". "Danger Will Robinson".
  19. Exciting summer as a lot of us are getting new wheels, some of us are getting the Kingsong 18L, Ninebot Z10, and for the rest of us perhaps the MSX. I wanted to create this for anyone that has had any problems with their MSX since receiving the unicycle. Please post here and share with your fellow riders! Please keep reviews CONCISE with both Positives and Negatives Include any: manufacturers defect, poor design etc
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