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Found 40 results

  1. I need to sell my wheels. I'm in the Denver metro area. I will include 3d printed stands for both wheels (wheels are on these stands in the photos). I have original boxes from eWheels. Standard chargers for both wheels. Prices will be in addition to shipping if not local. I'll get shipping labels from eWheels. Both wheels still have the one year warranty from their purchase dates. KS-14D (420wh): $500. 167 miles on the wheel. Purchased January 2020 from eWheels. 84 MSX (1600wh): $800. 267 miles on the wheel. Purchased March 2020 from eWheels. Will include seat and self-standing fender. The 14D has the usual scratches from learning. Very scratched pedals. Has baby bumpers and neoprene kuji pads. Some abrasion to the shell and handle from a faceplant. The MSX also has the usual scratches and has been crashed (at 25 MPH). Has baby bumpers on it. It is missing its headlight and the shell screw standoffs are broken. It has a few scratches as well. Selling as-is. Crash details below. Photos: KS-14D MSX About the MSX crash: I faceplanted at 25 MPH. I was wearing a Joe Rocket Phoenix Ion Summit mesh jacket, Leatt Dual Axis knee guards, LS2 Pioneer helmet, Demon Flexmeter double-sided D3O wrist guards. I was not wearing motorcycle boots, and should have been. The rest of the gear did its job perfectly, though lack of ankle protection means I sprained my ankle and damaged some tendons in my leg. I was on crutches for a week and in a boot for 2 weeks. As far as the cause of the crash, I do not know what happened. I thought I may have hit a bump or something. Returned to the scene about 2 weeks later when I could drive again, and it was a perfect bicycle lane. Machine malfunction cannot be ruled out. Would probably be fairly easy to repair and make a great spare/project/beater wheel, just GEAR UP and BE CAREFUL. I think riding around cars is just plain irresponsible now. I am lucky the wheel harmlessly flew off the road into the grass and not into a car or pedestrian! Probably not the best story to sell a wheel... But full disclosure is always best. As far as the 14D goes, it's just no fun to me after riding the MSX. Plus, I cannot be trusted on EUC's. I'd rather just quit while I'm ahead. If anyone wants any more photos, I'm happy to share. Shipping update: eWheels requires name, email, phone number and shipping address in order to quote and generate shipping labels. SOLD: The 14D shipped from Colorado to NYC for $39. I left the wheel with Fedex at 5pm on Friday. The buyer, @Seahorse_Dimples, received the wheel Monday at 10 AM. That's awesome... eWheels shipping is fantastic! MSX update: I ordered the headlight parts from eWheels. Missing headlight seems to be a sticking point, so I'm going to repair (or replace, if it comes to that) the shell and reinstall the headlight and then re-list. Probably for a higher price since I will have done the labor and bought the parts I was discounting for.
  2. Okay let’s face it... for us hard core riders out there it’s been a fight between the MSX and the Z10 though personally I think it’s a superior wheel even without the detailed experience of the z10 I’ve had to make quite a few customizations to my wheel. share what you’ve done and perhaps it would inspire me and others! Here’s a list of things I’ve done: 1. Put ACM padding on my MSX 2.lowered pedal angles 3.outdoor hiking light mounted by Velcro 4.el wire(three strips u see in the pic) to be visible from the side 5. Mud guard 6. Slime into inner tube 7.put more grip tape as the ones on the pedal were wearing out.
  3. Am I the only one that thinks wheels shouldn't have people names (like cats and dogs)? Anyhoo.... thanks to @Hsiang and indirectly eWheels for the brief poke-prod-ride today of the Sherpa (I refuse to call this wheel by it's official name). While you're all waiting for the Hsiang-ster (call him Sean, he'll love that!) to drop his Spongebob video, thought I'd offer my brief and unbiased thoughts for you insatiable bastards EUC folk. Thoughts in No Order: This wheels reminds me a LOT of my now dead Rockwheel GT16, from the layout (2 permanently wired longitudinal battery pairs down each leg, board on top, exposed wheel), to the long hex pedal shape, to the similar hex column trolley (albeit the GT16 one was an external add-on). The gyro-pedal resistance even feels reminiscent (but not identical) to the GT16, with the GT16 being more a hard rubber sponginess, to the Veteran's medium rubber sponginess (ie. not like the Gotway brick hard or glide-y/air-y soft mode swing, although local guys tipped me to the fact that the newer MSP boards now also feel spongy, unlike previous MPS FW boards. The natural comparison is to the MSX/MSP, but the ride feel to me is not that. First, the ergonomics are waaay better than the MSX series, as there is more side shell area support height, from pedal to top-of-shell, which the MSX series never had, due to it being just an MSV3 case with the pedals moved up higher, so less resulting side shell area height support. The benefit of the batteries being perfectly balanced on each side flanking the center axle, is that there is no top-heaviness that wheels with extra top batteries suffer. Same goes for the MSX series, since those batteries are held above the center axle with no lower battery to balance it out. On ride, Shermona felt plenty balanced, albeit with some girth, even with pretty high-feeling pedals (whatever that means anymore). Neither me nor @Hsiang nor @Ben Kim were willing to bust 40+, but it's my theory that this wheel will perform similar or slightly higher max compared to the 100V MSX, esp seeing in the stress torque test below that this wheel is not tuned for torque like the MSP is (but no other wheel is basically). This isn't to be confused that Slovenia doesn't feel easy to push accelerate, because it does feel nice and robust in that realm, but the ppl seem to confuse real torque power with what they are feeling pedal pressure-wise, which IMHO is more how the response is tuned v acceleration. Rough feel/eyeballing it, I'd say the She-man feels more responsive to acceleration than a 100V MSX simply due to the fact that the 100V MSX is a brick hard shelf on all modes and will fight you the more acceleration you try to summon (yes contrary to what guys on here think, but I'm adamant about this point often on these forums). I say this because the internal components (battery, board, BT module, etc.) all look like the same supplier stuff as Gotways, because it IS coming from the same place! So I don't think they're reinventing anything here, just variations on a theme. If anyone cares (I think only me @Tishawn Fahie, @chulander, and maybe a couple more guys would), this Veteran Shellfish's soft mode is super interesting IMHO, and is ACTUALLY REAL SOFT MODE! (which is why I'm even entertaining/contemplating getting this wheel). Like I said above, it's definitely not Gotway soft mode, due to the rubbery sponginess, but has proper front pedal push swing/travel, like an OG Gotway soft mode, but unlike OG Gotway soft, the backswing brake has some significant swing/travel to it, which threw me off (as Gotway OG soft backswing is harder with less travel). Due to the short time I was on it, I'm not totally sure what to make of that, but it does intrigue me into wanting to master that feel. Construction/build quality was on my checklist, and this Veteran is definitely a notch above the cram-and-jam bees nest that is the MSX series. The shell plastic when grabbed and pinched on both sides feels noticeably thicker than the usual Gotway shells, as I tried to tug and warp the inner shell as I can do on my Monster inner shell, but this Shamama inner shell was stiffer and didn't flex nearly as much, especially at the seam where the pedal arms contact the inner shell rectangular column, so there's some hope the usual Gotway cracking at that juncture doesn't happen with the Veteran. And all the board wiring is clean, what with no speaker / LEDs (thank God!), all self contained up top. The rail on touch wasn't super high quality, but not super cheap to the touch either, so better than I thought going in. The rails seem to be in 2 parts, where they adjoin to holed anchoring fixtures on the pedal arm itself, beneath the L support. The rail measures at ~ 0.8" for guys who are looking for mounting solutions. The new longer pedals I thought I would hate, but eh, they seemed fine on trial. Since the normal hotshot YouTubers have no interest in divulging, but I do: Veteran is using the same pedal arm angle and width (minus the need for spacers), so you can swap in any Gotway pedal into this Shamgod you want! (below with my MCM5 pedal on) Water infiltration on this wheel might suffer a bit, but not major I think. None of the seams on the shell covers are gasketed, but that's an easy fix. However, the trolley column holes are also not gasketed, albeit the seams are very tiny, but this would be one possible are of infiltration (not MSX trolley handle level tho). Also, the front and back cooling vent holes, while I like for obvious cooling design, are 2 other areas of possible water penetration, but less trivial, as those vent holes are below the actual board level (board is raised by the heasink), pointed at the heatsink cavities below. But also on the above rain tip, the LCD panel unfortunately isn't the waterproof gel+plastic button deal, it's plastic cover over a mechanical plastic button, and the LCD panel was peeling at 1 edge from the start, so this thing is possibly vulnerable in rain. I would invest in a good XL shower cap or garbage bag cover for rain Another useless (or useful(?)) thing no YouTuber would cover is the fact that, yes, the headlight and taillight are easily removable, and the plugs are 3.5mm pins. Which is awesome because you can technically easily swap in your own headlight of choice! In fact, @Ben Kim already found the generic frontlight they're using here. . Portability-wise, it's just as ppl probably think here: this thing, while not impossible, is DAMN HEAVY! (ie. heaviest in the market) And you can only really lift it awkwardly like a heavy gaming PC by the far front and back railing. This is really the major hiccup that has me wavering over pressing the buy button. Oh! and for the seated riding fans, this thing is definitely too low to just sit. It's not MSX squatty-potty bad, but you still have to straddle the back edge with your twig-and-berries. What a shame! All they needed to do is make this thing a few inches taller for seatless proper seated riding. Oh well. Some guys are trying to herald this as the next Messiah, one wheel-to-vanquish all, but IMHO it's more like this is what the 100V MSX should have been: an actual improved re-design. If you don't care about build quality or want a lighter, cheaper wheel with similar performance, definitely the MSX is still that. But M Night Shamalan to me is the MSX speed performance, wrapped in a much better and cleaner shell, but she also gained like 30+ lbs and can't be lifted up and across the room in a civil manner (oh yeah, I flaked and forgot to bring my spare power button to test, but I spied a few empty 2-pin spots on the board that might be hiding as a live handle disengage port, dunno). Argh, if the soft mode wasn't so intriguing, I would so easily be able to cross this wheel off my list. Decisions, decisions...... EDIT: FML, pre-ordered
  4. Hello everyone. Im currently working on a mini RGB controller for the GW MSX wheels. i want to add the different versions to it, but i need someone to help clarify a few things for me. Latest msx wheels: How many leds are placed on the tail-panel ? In what direction does the animation move when the wheel rolls forward ? Is it still a single cable for all the leds, as before? Total number of leds? I know about the 1st gen, its what i have myself. Thank you
  5. Hey guys, if you had to choose between those 2 wheels and you want the most range out of it, is the 100V with the same battery size better for 200usd more? I am just looking for the longest range wheel under 2000 dollars... Or is there any other better range wheel? Thank u and stay safe!
  6. Hi guys, After having an EUC for 3 years, I still have bits to learn. I currently have my first wheel; MSuper V3 and my current wheel; MSX. I have my first two alarms and tiltback disabled on my MSX and haven't taken it to top speed at all, therefore, I haven't heard the warning beeps for my last alarm. What I was wondering is at 100 percent battery, it's possible to hit the last alarm at say 30mph (Not sure what it's set by default) and slow down, but if I had say 50 percent battery, would the alarm still come on at 30mph or relevant to the output power, warning you from overpowering? Is it just speed based alarms? Will the wheel allow you to overpower it, or will it always beep depending on what output it's giving? How do you know how much power output you have left, relevant to what battery percentage you have left? It's really hard to write what I'm asking haha, hopefully it comes across okay and someone can give me a solid answer. The scenario is, when I'm riding at full battery, I'm not concentrating fully on speed as I know the alarm will sound if I go too fast, whereas when the battery power is lower, I take note and slow down as I don't want to Overpower the wheel and not hear an alarm. I'm hoping the last alarm sounds when you're close to maximum output and not a set speed. If this wasn't the case, riding at 40 percent battery would be really dangerous as the wheel has less to give and possibly not even reach the speed your alarm is set at. Please can someone firstly fathom out what I'm trying to say and possibly come up with a clear answer! Thank you! Liam.
  7. Here are the facts of my Gotway MSX 84V 1600wh for sale in SF Bay Area ($950): I am the original owner and I purchased this EUC from eWheels in March of 2019. It has 866 miles (1394km) on it and the battery charges to 100%. It has never been dropped, in a crash or ridden in the rain. It has never needed a tire change, maintenance or repair. There are no abnormal creaks, rubbing sounds or vibrations. All of the LED's, buzzer and trolley handle work correctly. I modified the pedals to full grip tape. The right front top screw hole has over-tightening hairline cracks (see photo below). Comes with original box, charger and user manual. This sale will be for local pick-up/drop-off only and payment will be through PayPal only.
  8. Selling my Gotway msx 84v. Bought from speedy feet in July 19. See link for details as listed on ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gotway-MSX-84V-Electric-Unicycle/164174094973?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649&pageci=013986bc-121f-4fe8-ac21-3d3412050328&redirect=mobile Any questions please ask.
  9. Hey, I am gonna get my first Gotway wheel next month, its gonna be the 84V MSX with 1859Wh battery mod... I am 175lbs, nearly 6 feet and I ride pretty fast, around 30mph all the time if it is possible... What about the riding modes? I need to get the best range out of it... I know that slower speed is the biggest factor of getting more range,but still the riding modes surely have some impact... I am an experienced rider, 2500km on 18XL. Is the soft mode the best for getting the most range out of the MSX? Also a higher tire pressure should help me get more range... Thank you for any tips! Stay safe!
  10. Hey, so I am gonna buy the 1859Wh 84V MSX from Green&FashionStore. As it is a newer model, it has black pedals better angled, not as the original MSX production...no need to do anything with pedal I guess. ->I guess I am gonna buy a Mudguard and front bumper as the first things to do. -Also thinking about the seat, is it usable on the msx for a 180cm / 5,9feet guy? -Found some "speedypads" on the web for better acceleration/braking. Are those worth it? Or should I somehow make myself a pair of DIY pads? -What are any other things to do on a "old but new" MSX? -Should I open it and check the inside? -Should I mount a better light? What about the tire pressure?I am 75kg and Im gonna ride fast n furious, mainly on asphalt roads, but there are several bumps, not a perfectly flat asphalt lol:( -What app do you use on iOS? Is Darknessbot still the best? Or did gotway app get any better and it is usable now? -Also the best free app for tracking the trips? Your suggestions? Any other tips n tricks? It is gonna be my first gotway wheel n' I really want to be prepaired. So sorry for that many questions lol, thank you very much for any reply, hope youre doing great!
  11. Hey, is there an owner of this year's MSX with the new black pedals? Are there any differences between an old one with silver pedals? Thanks!
  12. Maiden voyage on the MSX. So far so good. About a hundred miles in. Thanks for viewing, stay safe and healthy everyone.
  13. @Marty Backesaid MSP is the most powerful wheel yet. If that's true, we should be able to measure it, right? Right! Friends and I got ahold of the EUCO demo wheel, and put it head-to-head with the prior high-torque wheels, MSX and MCM5. These runs were timed with a manual stopwatch, over a fixed distance. Notable results: The MSX owner (Rider 1) was fastest up our hill on MCM5, not MSP! But we can see from his current log that he wasn't comfortable taking the MSP to its maximum output. The MCM5 owner (Rider 2) was fastest with MSP, not MCM5! We can see that he committed to an even more aggressive forward lean, and got higher current from the MSP. If you don't use power pads, and weigh 175lb or less, it's physically impossible to even get near the power limits of MSX or MSP at low speeds. None of us were comfortable going up this hill quickly (with any wheel) without DIY lean pads installed. Data: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OxLMZz3fuu_x06lTeh8rQOeYU1oPibda/view?usp=sharing Summary analysis: Video of test: Very fun wheel! Notice something we didn't? Comments appreciated
  14. Hey, is there any owner of the Green & Fashion 1859Wh 84V MSX ? I guess it is going to be my next wheel for this summer and I really wanna know everything I can before I buy... I would like to know mostly about Range and overall performance in time... There are some people getting 40 miles range out of 1300Wh MSX, so what would be the range of this 1859Wh battery? I am a high cruising speed guy, I ride around 25-30mph all the time, so I guess Im really gonna drain the battery faster.. Also my riding weight is around 170lbs or 77Kg. Thank you guys and stay safe!
  15. Some stuff i designed and used on my wheels MSX pedal pin: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4216380 MSX stand: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3821694 MSX mudguard: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4195445 Powerpads: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4279839 Monster stand: Monster mudguard: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4279858 MCM5 stand: [ to be updated ]
  16. Hey y'all! I've spent a year riding EUCs and ripping through upgrades (IPS i6, InMotion V8, KS18L w/Pedal Upgrade, MSX100V 1.23kWh, and now a MSX100V 1.85kWh coming in the mail). I started off thinking "bleh, I'm not a speed demon like those crazies riding GotWays" so I started off small, but I found that I really love the speed and safety of having more power and keeping up with cars at 70km/h. The big tires also lessen my fear of potholes and other road surface aberrations. Alongside my other hobbies (skydiving and alpine climbing), EUC riding is up there on my favorites list. The EUC is also a convenient tool for short errands, last-mile transport, and walking the dog. I truly believe it's the future of urban transport. So having dropped another $2k on this hobby, I'm idly pondering the future directions that EUCs will take and how they can get better. Could we get together a wish list of near-term and long-term improvements that we'd like to see on the EUCs of the future? Here's my list. Short-term: Kuji Pads standard. Besides enabling tricks like jumping up curbs, Kuji Pads are a safety feature, helping reduce foot slip when traveling over irregular terrain. Long footpedals standard. To extract the most performance (and safety) out of your EUC, the pedals need to be as long as your foot. This allows your center of gravity to shift as far forward or backward as possible, allowing the greatest control input for rapid acceleration and deceleration. It also allows you to climb and descend steeper hills. With the upgraded pedals on the KS18L, I've climbed the steepest hills in San Francisco with no complaint. The same cannot be said for the standard short pedals on the MSX. Footpedal grind guards. Pedal scrape is no joke, especially if your pedal hits a bump in the road. Danger arises from the potential for the pedal to get "stuck," causing a sudden torque and launching you off the EUC. If the pedals had low-friction grind guards on their leading edge (made of acetal or UHMWPE, for example), this would lessen the odds of getting stuck. Of course, they would be consumables. Dihedral footpedals standard. The angled dihedral footpedals of the MSX seem weird at first, but they really secure your foot against the EUC—a huge benefit for reducing foot slip when hitting unexpected bumps, or when riding one-footed. Especially if you must make frequent stops, such as when walking the dog, this latter point is important for lessening foot fatigue. They also lessen the odds of pedal scrape on sharp turns. Long-term: Higher speed. Keeping up with cars is lots of fun, but also important for safety (drivers DGAF). I'd like to see future EUCs with a top speed of 80 or 90km/h. Bigger battery. Since drag force rises quadratically with speed, you need a bigger battery to go long distances if you're going fast. I'd like future EUCs with 3kWh or more. Shock absorbers. My knees are fine, but using them to dampen the resonant tank formed by the tire's spring force and the EUC's mass can be a challenge—as a human, my response time isn't fast enough to dampen it well; I need to anticipate and prepare for the shock. Especially on poorly maintained roads, it's difficult to keep up with the repetitive and unpredictable force impulses when traveling at speed, causing anxiety about foot slip when traveling on unknown paths at night. It would be preferred if shock absorbers (important: with dampeners) were integrated into the EUC structure, especially if the battery was kept unsprung. I imagine this would result in a supremely buttery ride. Belt-drive. This one's debatable, because it introduces another point of failure into the drivetrain, but... The power you can get out of a motor is proportional to the product of its size (namely, its volume) and how fast you spin it. With direct drive, where the motor is integrated into the wheel structure, you aren't spinning the motor very fast so its power density is remarkably low. As a result, for a given power level the motor must be really big—and neodymium and copper ain't cheap. If you added gearing or a belt drive, then the motor could spin faster than the wheel and be much smaller—like a hobby motor. This would substantially reduce the cost and weight of EUCs. Additionally, the sprung mass could be reduced and it would be easier to carry around. I take pause because it adds another point of failure if the belt breaks. While a drivetrain failure on a motorcycle might cause a fall, a drivetrain failure on an EUC will cause a fall. Maybe some belt-drive experts can chime in. Foot attachment. Having dihedral pedals and Kuji pads helps to reduce foot slip, but nothing can beat a true attachment. It needn't take much force, since it would only need to prevent your feet from slipping off while catching air, so "clip-in" pedals like bicycles or skis would be unnecessary. Preferably something that can be detached easily when you need to step or jump off. My thought at the moment is to place a magnet on the pedal or the side of the EUC, and to have a small steel plate that pins to the bottom or side your shoe that is attracted by the magnet. Articulating seats. Control of acceleration on the EUC arises from your ability to translate your center of gravity longitudinally, fore or aft of the tire's point of contact. Your ankles' articulation permits this motion. Fine control of steering is done by twisting your hips (and by extension the EUC) axially against your torso's rotational inertia, and course control by lateral translation of your center of gravity to the left or right of the tire's point of contact. The former is permitted by twisting articulation in your trunk, and the latter by articulation in your ankles and hips. On a seat that is rigidly mounted to the EUC, your ability to perform these translations and rotations is greatly diminished. In this case, you are reliant on the compliance in your butt tissue, which even for those blessed with child-bearing hips is not much. As a result, your control inputs on a seat are severely limited. This endangers you since you cannot steer or decelerate as quickly as may be needed in the event of an emergency. Articulating seats that permit a few centimeters of longitudinal and lateral translation, and several degrees of axial rotation, should greatly improve this situation. Maintenance schedules. As EUCs become faster and more powerful, and as more people ride them, it becomes more critical to keep them well-maintained. Manufacturer-recommended maintenance and inspection intervals may be wise. What's your wishlist? Cheers!
  17. Hi All, Sorry if this addressed somewhere else. I just started with EUC about a month ago and am obsessed. I upgraded from the KS14d to the MSX and was loving the transition. 2 weeks in some dude on a bike hardcore takes me out and sends my new MSX tumbling end over end. I was able to ride it home but now the body isn't lining up (concerned about moisture and debris getting in there), does anyone know where I can get this fixed in NYC? Eager to get back out on the road and hoping to resolve this ASAP without needing to buy another one. Total newbie in this world, so any help is greatly appreciated. Best, Jordan
  18. Hello everybody. I want to clear my brain of some worries and listen to input about this from other riders who may have more knowledge on this than me. On a group ride in late Feb, I rode about 45km and returned home with 35% battery remaining. Pretty good for a day spent going up long hills as well as down them, in temps between 4-7C Just recently after that, I decided to get some Silicone and made a custom gasket for my sidepanels. Just as an insurance against any future water ingress. There's obviously been some water in my color LED's because on the left side they spaz out, even when not set to be turned on as I ride. But I don't really care about them, and I don't even know how to get into them in the first place. Okay, so with that metric as my background, my following issue is this. I took my wheel out for a ride of about 20km the other day, and felt like the battery had drained substantially more than I was expecting. I will link a few EUCWorld tours at the end of this for anyone to look at. I didn't think too much more about it, and went about my day. Then I had another ride, and again, I was wondering why the battery level dropped so far down after such a short drive. These rides have all been in temps around 3-8C on a tire that measures around 1.6-7 bars pressure. Secondly, and this might be completely unrelated: Looking at EUCWorld, the battery indicator in the app does not update nearly as smoothly as it did before. It used to be that it would respond completely linearly with the load you put on the wheel, so that you could know if pushing it a certain amount with how much battery was remaining, to 0% (In the app, anyway) However, this is no longer the case. Now it updates very, very rarely. If that is related to my wheel or not, I don't know, but I thought it was worth noting, in case anyone else has seen this too. 20km ride from earlier today. 13Km ride from earlier today
  19. I recently purchased a new motherboard for my MSX. The original; after two years, two-thousand+ miles and innumerable west coast rainy days exploded in a torrential downpour. Technically it was a 100v resistor that exploded but the damage to the board was severe and beyond repair. The latest motherboard arrived in fine working order and promptly from my friends at eWheels.c0m. Those familiar with this piece of hardware will notice the additions. To make a long story short, no pun intended; I shorted the "5V" while hooking up another headlight. now the board that I had such great intentions for is unresponsive and it is Sunday......the day that the lord set aside for eWheeling. Every shop that could help me is closed. I was hoping one of the fine folks reading this would be able to help me out.....I am just typing this making another coffee and checking diodes. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Khile
  20. Selling my 100v MSX 1230wh from ewheels (original box included). Warranty good until April 2020. Only has 800 miles on it. It's taken a few tumbles at low speeds (<10 mph) so it's all cosmetic "damage". Comes with fender/stand from ewheels, GW seat, and 4-amp fast charger. I can leave the DIY Powerpads and Kuji Pads on or take them off if you like. Lights all work great. I added a reflector (sticker) on the back because I ride at night. Range of ~40 miles if you take it easy or ~20 miles if you ride all out. I typically hear beeps around 40mph on this wheel at 100% battery. $1400 Local pickup (San Diego County or Orange County) or $1450 shipped within USA (assuming I can get this figured out with ewheels shipping label) I can't tell you how much I love this wheel but I need to sell this wheel if I want to buy more wheels. PM me here or on instagram @FlyboyEUC. Left Side Front View Right Side Top View Rear View Rear View Reflector
  21. MODERATORS: Please be kind, while there is a little bit of promotion in this post, the primary objective is to get input from riders, to allow us to offer the best solution possible for everyone. This is a call to all current MSX owners... We would like some assistance from you, please... If you don't want to read all of this post, skip down to the RED paragraph. As you may have seen (or not) Roll.nz has just expanded our EUC range to to include a selection of the Gotway wheels. This allows us to cater to the local (New Zealand) EUC market, but it also allows us to now develop EUC Bodyguards for those Gotway wheels. BTW - thanks to all of you that have been messaging us constantly to provide these - you can all stop now though, please. Anyway, we have started with the Monster... Yes it is a niche wheel, but as it is fairly void of features it was an easier choice and as it is rather fragile, protection is more important. And we are now working through the final testing before making it available! BTW - anyone interested in a Monster EUC Bodyguard, please don't message us to ask us to let you know when it is available (which is really difficult) - instead, subscribe to our Facebook or Instagram, as everything will be announced there first. Now we are working on the MSX! Which is where we would appreciate some feedback... We only have a few units available to work with, but we want to make sure that we cater to most of the units out there. Based on some previous work we have done with a Tesla, we understand that the LED lighting is not always consistent, so we would love it if all of you would be able to show us your MSX LED. I don't want anyone to spend a bunch of time on this, all we would like to see is your LED lights lit up from the front and the back - mainly to see where they are (and where they aren't). Those happy to help, please either comment back on this post, or email us at office@roll.nz To finish... those of you wanting a Nikola Bodyguard, they will be challenging but are also the next wheel on our list! Again, please don't ask us to let each of you know when they are available - instead, subscribe to our Facebook or Instagram, as everything will be announced there first.
  22. If you have the 100v MSX with the oscillation problem, then this post might help you with the upgrade. This only affects the recent batch of MSuper Xs from eWheels with 1860 wh batteries. @Jason McNeil has been working with Gotway to provide new controllers and after the first batch was a bust, we have the replacements and are ready to try them out. First heads up is that the new controllers were sent with the wrong main connector (at least mine was). It has the smaller XT-60 connector which is not going to fit. The one that you currently have is most likely the XT-90 which is the heavier duty cousin. It's a significant difference as shown below. The XT-90 is on the left and the XT-60 is on the right. My recommendation is if you received a bad controller a few weeks ago (that apparently causes the wheel to catch fire), that board has the XT-90 connector. So you can heat up the wires on the connector end of the bad controller and remove the XT-90. Nobody should ever use those bad controllers now anyway, so you should be safe to re-purpose it. I'd recommend not trying to remove the wires that are soldered directly to the controller as you risk damaging the electronics. I'd also go with the XT-90 and not downgrade to the XT-60 since it's a more robust connector. We don't ever really want to downgrade, right? Also, keeping with the XT-90 instead of retrofitting to the XT-60 makes it possible to go back to the old controller in case you ever need to. My soldering is definitely not pro quality, but I also put on a heat shrink wrap after the picture above and then the bottom part of the connector slides up and covers those wires. Once you have replaced the connector with the XT-90, then you are ready to install the board. This is a handy cheat sheet to show you which wires go where: It's a little confusion because the documentation on the old board shows a 5V fan connection and the new board shows a 12V fan connection. Probably a typo. If my cheat sheet above helps, great. Otherwise you can use these Chinese docs: Old Board New Board The new board now needs to be tested. I gave it a quick spin in the dark, but should be able to put it through its paces tomorrow. I'm interested in feedback from anyone else that is in the process of upgrading the controller. If these tips help in any way, then I'm glad of that.
  23. So, I felt like the stock MSX tire is fine for the street, but pretty weak on any kind of trail. I wanted to try out a dual sport tire which could work on the trails and the road. I decided to try out the Shinko 244. There are other options out there that people have tried, but I really liked the look of this one. The problem is that tire lists the width at 2.75". Then the specs show that it is at 2.95" which is only about 1/8" wider than the stock tire. So, I thought, it should be fine. However, inflated the tire really measures about 3.25". Ouch, so what to do? I had to use a belt sander and sand that thing down on the sides to make it fit. I also had to take the entire wheel apart in order to sand the housing and give it a little more clearance. So, for the rated difficulty of installing this tire, I'm not sure I can recommend it. But I LOVE how it works when finally installed. Virgin tire - road only at this point. Time to get dirty... Morning ride after San Diego rain. It can get a little muddy out here on these hills. But the views are great. As you can see, I definitely need a mud flap now because the nice upgraded one from eWheels won't fit on this tire at all. Loose soil, sand, bark, gravel, straight up mud are no match for this thing. Stable and solid like it's glued to the road from what I've tried so far. I'll let you know how it's working once I've put a few more miles on it.
  24. 84v msx (batteryless) Comes with 1 regular GotWay Chargers shell is a bit split in the front but any euc vet can fix with no problem or just swap the shell , and your batteries and your set , also has euc guy power pads ,if interested let me know I can shoot you some pictures. Asking for $700 great back up wheel !!! Local pickup only (Manhattan/Brooklyn)
  25. I had issues with my new MSX charger, it popped when I plugged it in and would not charge, the shop replaced it. Now my app shows 64v at 100% charge. Is that normal, is the app incorrect, did the charger damage some cells, should I test the poles on the charge port?
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