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EUC

Found 7 results

  1. Hey all, I'm trying to determine if this is an issue with the latest firmware update, a problem with the control board, or another issue entirely. Most recently I have noticed that my Z10's center of balance is making more drastic changes at low speeds. When I start the unit up and begin making small movements, I can feel the sensor reset slightly and at times have had the footplate tilt back and forward a significant amount before slowly resetting. This isn't as extreme as the issue linked in the post below, but is significantly different than when I got the unit. Again it hasn't affected me too much at higher speeds. Is it possible for the control board to slowly wear out?
  2. Hi all, I have ordered 14D controller and the battery packs from ewheels. But when I try to install, the motor is not getting engaged. The controller is beeping. Also I checked the motor connection cables several times. Attaching the video regarding the same. Any help is highly appreciated. KS 14D.mp4 Adding another video.... KS 14d_2.mp4
  3. Does anyone know where I can get body parts for a "Moby" wheel? It has two wheels side by side. The plastic is badly damaged and the controller might be bad. I am new to this, I do have experience with electric bikes and regular unicycles.
  4. What is the maximum continuous current that this controller can handle? The MOSFETs are labeled as 100v, but I can't find any information about the controllers ability to handle current.
  5. If you have the 100v MSX with the oscillation problem, then this post might help you with the upgrade. This only affects the recent batch of MSuper Xs from eWheels with 1860 wh batteries. @Jason McNeil has been working with Gotway to provide new controllers and after the first batch was a bust, we have the replacements and are ready to try them out. First heads up is that the new controllers were sent with the wrong main connector (at least mine was). It has the smaller XT-60 connector which is not going to fit. The one that you currently have is most likely the XT-90 which is the heavier duty cousin. It's a significant difference as shown below. The XT-90 is on the left and the XT-60 is on the right. My recommendation is if you received a bad controller a few weeks ago (that apparently causes the wheel to catch fire), that board has the XT-90 connector. So you can heat up the wires on the connector end of the bad controller and remove the XT-90. Nobody should ever use those bad controllers now anyway, so you should be safe to re-purpose it. I'd recommend not trying to remove the wires that are soldered directly to the controller as you risk damaging the electronics. I'd also go with the XT-90 and not downgrade to the XT-60 since it's a more robust connector. We don't ever really want to downgrade, right? Also, keeping with the XT-90 instead of retrofitting to the XT-60 makes it possible to go back to the old controller in case you ever need to. My soldering is definitely not pro quality, but I also put on a heat shrink wrap after the picture above and then the bottom part of the connector slides up and covers those wires. Once you have replaced the connector with the XT-90, then you are ready to install the board. This is a handy cheat sheet to show you which wires go where: It's a little confusion because the documentation on the old board shows a 5V fan connection and the new board shows a 12V fan connection. Probably a typo. If my cheat sheet above helps, great. Otherwise you can use these Chinese docs: Old Board New Board The new board now needs to be tested. I gave it a quick spin in the dark, but should be able to put it through its paces tomorrow. I'm interested in feedback from anyone else that is in the process of upgrading the controller. If these tips help in any way, then I'm glad of that.
  6. Hi All, Moving in from the Firmware topic into its own topic for Open Sourced Hardware. Over the next little while I will move all the content from Firmware onto this post. I've been working on Reverse engineering the Gen2 boards as a starting point for development. Should have that done and posted today. We hope to be able to use the same Git to do both Hardware and Firmware advancements. I will post the important links as they come to this page. Lets keep the topic to Hardware. Although I have a Mechatroincs background my firmware skills are limited so we will definitely need some support from our Firmware buffs. Welcome to the topic. Mo
  7. Hi all! I have search a lot around this forum and other pages but still haven't found enough detail about the controller card of the Gotway EUC's. In particular the Msuper 3 since I'm currently working on a separate power-board with either 6 sturdier MOSFET's or 12 smaller as the original. Since most controller cards share the same basic setup I suspect that we could gather "all knowledge" in the same thread. One reason to go for 12 MOSFET's is the fact that there are components that them self may cope with currents above 360A but the connector leads stop at around 160-180A. So the first data I'm asking the forum for is Q1: Has anyone done actual measurements on the currents fed thru the motor of a Msuper 3? Preferably also an oscilloscope image... I have read a lot of documentation and can really recommend the Application Note AN-941 from where I quote the summary It is advisable to follow these general guidelines should be followed when paralleling MOSFETs: Use individual gate resistors to eliminate the risk of parasitic oscillation. Ensure that paralleled devices have a tight thermal coupling. Equalize common source inductance and reduce it to a value that does not greatly impact the total switching losses at the frequency of operation. Reduce stray inductance to values that give acceptable overshoots at the maximum operating current. Ensure the gate of the MOSFET is looking into a stiff (voltage) source with as little impedance as practical. Zener diodes in gate drive circuits may cause oscillations. When needed, they should be placed on the driver side of the gate decoupling resistor(s). Capacitors in gate drive circuits slow down switching, thereby increasing the switching unbalance between devices and may cause oscillations. Stray components are minimized by a tight layout and equalized by symmetrical position of components and routing of connections. I myself have not seen the 6 MOSFET-version of Gotways circuit boards but as I have understood the "fix" is to only solder another set on top, there's no other change of components, the impedance from the driver has been left unchanged. Also, as most of you have seen, there's no individual gate resistor, only a true parallel connection with the extra MOSFET simply mounted in the same PCB-hole. This may not be so serious depending on what frequency the PWM is operating at. Which leads med over to the next question Q2: Has anyone measured the PWM frequency of the Gotway controller board? But in general I sort of have a feeling that Gotway had a larger stock of controller cards and the add-on MOSFET is a quick fix. This is one reason they are somewhat reluctant to give hardware support and spare parts, many small re-sellers have tried and failed. It's more a question of selling new EUC's than fixing the ones that break. The plan now is, as I said initially, to build a separate power board. I de-soldered all MOSFET's along with the two 1200μF capacitors. Also all three motor-wires but realised that two of them are measured for current (the ACS709 circuit). Since there's no problem in that area at all I'll feed the current to "MotoA" and "MotoC" back to the controller PCB, keep it simple. Also, the main battery connector will be moved to the Power board, all the high currents will stay there. I will use only small signal wire connection to drive the controller card. The Power board will be mounted on the heat sink and a bigger heat sink will help balancing the heat in between the MOSFET's. Won't fit that big tunnel-thingy with a fan attached but some fan with thermostat will be used. One major drawback is that the electronics is cooled down partly by "air-speed" i.e. going slow on a hot day puts cooling to a test. The stripped controller PCB will fit nicely under the siren, it needs no additional cooling of any sort. If I get no response on the question above, I'll do some measurements o my own, just being lazy here ;0) But, please help out and collect as much electronic data as possible in this thread! Or link to other threads, I'll try to compile all data here if it seems to be spread out...
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