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EUC

Found 11 results

  1. If you have the 100v MSX with the oscillation problem, then this post might help you with the upgrade. This only affects the recent batch of MSuper Xs from eWheels with 1860 wh batteries. @Jason McNeil has been working with Gotway to provide new controllers and after the first batch was a bust, we have the replacements and are ready to try them out. First heads up is that the new controllers were sent with the wrong main connector (at least mine was). It has the smaller XT-60 connector which is not going to fit. The one that you currently have is most likely the XT-90 which is the heavier duty cousin. It's a significant difference as shown below. The XT-90 is on the left and the XT-60 is on the right. My recommendation is if you received a bad controller a few weeks ago (that apparently causes the wheel to catch fire), that board has the XT-90 connector. So you can heat up the wires on the connector end of the bad controller and remove the XT-90. Nobody should ever use those bad controllers now anyway, so you should be safe to re-purpose it. I'd recommend not trying to remove the wires that are soldered directly to the controller as you risk damaging the electronics. I'd also go with the XT-90 and not downgrade to the XT-60 since it's a more robust connector. We don't ever really want to downgrade, right? Also, keeping with the XT-90 instead of retrofitting to the XT-60 makes it possible to go back to the old controller in case you ever need to. My soldering is definitely not pro quality, but I also put on a heat shrink wrap after the picture above and then the bottom part of the connector slides up and covers those wires. Once you have replaced the connector with the XT-90, then you are ready to install the board. This is a handy cheat sheet to show you which wires go where: It's a little confusion because the documentation on the old board shows a 5V fan connection and the new board shows a 12V fan connection. Probably a typo. If my cheat sheet above helps, great. Otherwise you can use these Chinese docs: Old Board New Board The new board now needs to be tested. I gave it a quick spin in the dark, but should be able to put it through its paces tomorrow. I'm interested in feedback from anyone else that is in the process of upgrading the controller. If these tips help in any way, then I'm glad of that.
  2. Hey all, I'm trying to determine if this is an issue with the latest firmware update, a problem with the control board, or another issue entirely. Most recently I have noticed that my Z10's center of balance is making more drastic changes at low speeds. When I start the unit up and begin making small movements, I can feel the sensor reset slightly and at times have had the footplate tilt back and forward a significant amount before slowly resetting. This isn't as extreme as the issue linked in the post below, but is significantly different than when I got the unit. Again it hasn't affected me too much at higher speeds. Is it possible for the control board to slowly wear out?
  3. Hi All, Moving in from the Firmware topic into its own topic for Open Sourced Hardware. Over the next little while I will move all the content from Firmware onto this post. I've been working on Reverse engineering the Gen2 boards as a starting point for development. Should have that done and posted today. We hope to be able to use the same Git to do both Hardware and Firmware advancements. I will post the important links as they come to this page. Lets keep the topic to Hardware. Although I have a Mechatroincs background my firmware skills are limited so we will definitely need some support from our Firmware buffs. Welcome to the topic. Mo
  4. Hi all! I have search a lot around this forum and other pages but still haven't found enough detail about the controller card of the Gotway EUC's. In particular the Msuper 3 since I'm currently working on a separate power-board with either 6 sturdier MOSFET's or 12 smaller as the original. Since most controller cards share the same basic setup I suspect that we could gather "all knowledge" in the same thread. One reason to go for 12 MOSFET's is the fact that there are components that them self may cope with currents above 360A but the connector leads stop at around 160-180A. So the first data I'm asking the forum for is Q1: Has anyone done actual measurements on the currents fed thru the motor of a Msuper 3? Preferably also an oscilloscope image... I have read a lot of documentation and can really recommend the Application Note AN-941 from where I quote the summary It is advisable to follow these general guidelines should be followed when paralleling MOSFETs: Use individual gate resistors to eliminate the risk of parasitic oscillation. Ensure that paralleled devices have a tight thermal coupling. Equalize common source inductance and reduce it to a value that does not greatly impact the total switching losses at the frequency of operation. Reduce stray inductance to values that give acceptable overshoots at the maximum operating current. Ensure the gate of the MOSFET is looking into a stiff (voltage) source with as little impedance as practical. Zener diodes in gate drive circuits may cause oscillations. When needed, they should be placed on the driver side of the gate decoupling resistor(s). Capacitors in gate drive circuits slow down switching, thereby increasing the switching unbalance between devices and may cause oscillations. Stray components are minimized by a tight layout and equalized by symmetrical position of components and routing of connections. I myself have not seen the 6 MOSFET-version of Gotways circuit boards but as I have understood the "fix" is to only solder another set on top, there's no other change of components, the impedance from the driver has been left unchanged. Also, as most of you have seen, there's no individual gate resistor, only a true parallel connection with the extra MOSFET simply mounted in the same PCB-hole. This may not be so serious depending on what frequency the PWM is operating at. Which leads med over to the next question Q2: Has anyone measured the PWM frequency of the Gotway controller board? But in general I sort of have a feeling that Gotway had a larger stock of controller cards and the add-on MOSFET is a quick fix. This is one reason they are somewhat reluctant to give hardware support and spare parts, many small re-sellers have tried and failed. It's more a question of selling new EUC's than fixing the ones that break. The plan now is, as I said initially, to build a separate power board. I de-soldered all MOSFET's along with the two 1200μF capacitors. Also all three motor-wires but realised that two of them are measured for current (the ACS709 circuit). Since there's no problem in that area at all I'll feed the current to "MotoA" and "MotoC" back to the controller PCB, keep it simple. Also, the main battery connector will be moved to the Power board, all the high currents will stay there. I will use only small signal wire connection to drive the controller card. The Power board will be mounted on the heat sink and a bigger heat sink will help balancing the heat in between the MOSFET's. Won't fit that big tunnel-thingy with a fan attached but some fan with thermostat will be used. One major drawback is that the electronics is cooled down partly by "air-speed" i.e. going slow on a hot day puts cooling to a test. The stripped controller PCB will fit nicely under the siren, it needs no additional cooling of any sort. If I get no response on the question above, I'll do some measurements o my own, just being lazy here ;0) But, please help out and collect as much electronic data as possible in this thread! Or link to other threads, I'll try to compile all data here if it seems to be spread out...
  5. Here is an image of the controller board from my generic electrically locked up Step-n-Roll, with wire color codes, for reference. If anyone has information on the undocumented connector lands, I will be happy to update the image and re-post.
  6. Hi all! I got a really good price on a smashed up Msuper3 so I'm now wheeling around as a newbie on a heavily duct taped wheel. Everything was working at first. Step one however was to dismantle and examine since I had to now where the cracks went. I then left the controller disconnected from the battery for about a week. When I reconnected power to the controller card both capacitors charged up with a minor flash at the connection. Not good at all! GotWay uses no resistor as protection and after this neither my own Bluetooth-board or the one I borrowed from a friend will show up "in the air". There's a LED blinking red all the time and pressing the button makes no difference. Mind you that the BT-board I tried from my friend also might be damaged since 4 or 5 of his MOSFET's are burned. If course I'll try a brand new SH_BT_Board v1.3 but have anyone else had similar problems? Also, imagine how the assembly line at GotWay must be like? Either they do initial test on all controller cards through a proper power supply that swallows the spike on its own capacitors. Then the capacitors on the controller are already primed and in final station batteries and BT-board can just be connected without any spikes. Or, they have had to think about the order in which they mount the lot and that's it. So, now I'm just awaiting the new BT and I'll get back to you about it. Comments?
  7. Hello Experts I have an existing 16 inch-wheel hub motor. The controller and battery were damaged and I ordered a new set but not from original supplier. I am not sure what motor rating is the new controller designed for. My new battery is rated at 67v max. After assembling the motor to the controller and battery pack, I turned on the unicycle and I lifted the wheel before powering it up. The gyro is working and the wheel can rotate fore-aft. The only problem it seems is that when transitioning from one direction of rotation to the opposite direction (by tilting the machine), the motor seems to Jerk quite severely. i was terrified by this weird reaction. I tried switching the order of the hall sensor wires but it got worse eg. the motor could not rotate or went berserk with strong sudden wheel spins. So, I stuck to the initial hall sensor wiring which allowed the motor to rotate fore-aft. My suspicion of what could be wrong : 1. The motor may be rated higher than what the controller is designed / meant for. The controller may be meant for a smaller 14 inch hub motor. The existing motor is 16 inch and could be rated higher wattage. Maybe the coil ratings or impedance is not suitable? I have no clue. Just guessing. Does my suspicion make any sense? Is the jerking due to incompatible motor ? Or could it be that : 1. The gyro and accelerometer need to be re-tuned ? the controller need to re-learn with this motor? Lifting the wheel in the air above ground and turning it on, the machine is able to rotate fore-aft and seems rather balanced horizontally. Kindly could you help give me some clues as to what could be the cause? Thank you for reading. Have a nice day. Best regards John
  8. Hello, I bought my Ninebot in June from Ian (speedyfeet.uk). Until October 21st I rode more than 750 Km and I was absolutely happy with that wheel. But on October 21st the controller board died (Firmware 1.2.7) and the disaster took its course. (after a normal ride I switched off the bot and it would not switch on again) Chronology of a service disaster: October 21st. short after the update to firmware 1.2.7 ( I missed the 1.2.6 version ) my bot died and I asked Ian what to do. October 23rd. after a few emails with Ian, it was clear that the controller board is defect and Ian sent a request for an exchange. October 28th. Ian wrote me, that a new controller board was sent out to me. November 24th. No board arrived and I emailed Ian and a copy of the email to service@ninebot.com, that I didn´t get a new board . On the same day Ian forwarded my complaint to Ninebot and asked for a tracking number. November 27th. after more than 5 weeks a new controller board arrived: shipping date Nov.23rd. 2015 !!! (three days after the 1.2.9 Version desaster was public) FIRMWARE VERSION of the new board 1.2.9 !!! I have installed the board, but update to ver. 1.3.0 or activating the board was not possible without an "unlock code". I have send an email to Ian with the screenshot of the "change serial number" screen and asked for the code. Same day Ian answered, that he had requested the code. November 30th. I asked Ian for the unlock code again December 1st. Ian answered that he asked Ninebot for the code on Nov. 30th. again, but there was no reply. I send another email to service@ninebot.com and to boris.zhao@ninebot.cn asking for the unlock code. December 7th. until now no answer from Ninebot Inc. and meanwhile I am extremely annoyed. Today December 12th. Ian from Speedyfeet.uk managed to get the code for me - and it worked
  9. So my legway needed repair as it wasn't starting So i ordered a new controller from aliexpress Connected it and was excited but no Legway is not starting I tried calibrating by shorting the two points It only beeps And then a never ending long beep I noticed one thing when connect the 3 phase wires with transparent green caps The motor doesnt rotate freely with or without battery When i remove that the rotor moves freely manually The beep never ends Also two days back sane connections legway had stabilized but didnt move when tilted and stopped again immediately and since then only beeps This is the video showing problem https://youtu.be/NG95tXu8BFc P.S This isn't the original legway motherboard.i dont even know the hall wires connections But one good electronics person told me the red and black are proper And i did try combinations for other 3 Pls help PLS SEE THE VIDEO AND HELP ASAP
  10. Success! (Almost) finally for my little upgrade project. First a quick recap. I had a chinese direct generic 550watt EUC with usual 18km/hr top speed, standard pedal rising and annoying beeps.. but a good performer. Been the hacking geek and not satisfied with the speed I ordered a 30 km/h microworks built mcm control board (30BS), with bluetooth. It looked quite different from my original board (which had no bluetooth). Sadly it wouldnt ride, after many combos of hall sensors and power leads I gave up and went back to my original board, but then while installing some LED lights I shorted out the board and was left with no ride! So then my choice was to buy one of the generic 18km/h boards available (18B) or try the 24 km/h microworks board that looked almost identical to my old board. I decided for the price ($50 NZD incl shipping) it was worth the gamble for higher top speed. So it arrived today just one week later, in a very small cardboard box with almost no packaging, and i hooked it up using standard red yellow green blue black for hall sensors and yellow green blue for the power wires.. no go.. violent acceleration and calibration wouldnt engage using the two calibration wires. Big sigh and decided to keep trying combinations, did all hall sensor combos (6) and then decided to swap green and blue wires on power leads and hall sensors.. bingo! These seem to be the two wires that are most commonly swapped in different manufacturers. this time however i also needed to swap the hall sensors green and blue also. With the 30BS controller it was swap green and blue power and leave hall sensors as per spec. So even with different controllers from the same manufacturer then wiring is different, even though they send you the same wiring manual for each and tell you that the 24B and the 18B model wiring is the same.. um.. its not! Ok so whats strange so far is that the calibration doesnt work. I cant get it to calibrate as per manual. IE the wheel doesnt spin and then give a long beep to confirm successful calibration. It just pauses and then beeps saying calibration didnt happen. But it rides quite well so far. Odd thing is that, well its night time now and I didnt have a bike helmet handy so I wasnt willing to push it too fast, so tomorrow I will have a ride in daylight with helmet on and phone gps to test the speed. Because in my test ride I wasnt able to get the pedal to rise and I seemed to be going about 20km/h, and wasnt prepared to risk any faster without knowing what was going to happen, because it seems that when I hit approx 20km/h it tilted slightly forwards rather than backwards! this was quite disconcerting! maybe im imagining it because im used to obvious tilt back from my old controller or maybe it is not behaving correctly.. but im happy that its ridable and definitely way faster than original model.. im just curious to see if there is any top speed because holding the wheel off the ground and tilting it forward it accelerates, starts beeping at a certain angle but never cuts out no matter how far i lean forward.. this is weird also. So sorry this is so long, I just figured Id save having to answer a whole bunch of questions and just give as much detail as possible. If I can get it to calibrate i`ll feel a lot safer about testing its top speed. But im pretty excited to have it running this well with tons of torque! In the pics is original blown controller on the right and new one on the left. They look identical more or less. Interestingly this controller is sold for a 16 inch wheel but my wheel is 14 inch. Guys on russian forum said thats not a problem and they have used 16 inch controllers on 14 inch wheels. Im wondering if I should keep trying hall sensor and power cable combinations in case I still dont actually have the correct configuration for the controller to engage calibration? Other pic is the 30BS board that didnt work.
  11. Hi everyone. I have a generic 500w 18km/h EUC. I recently bought a 30 km/h control board to see if I could upgrade the wheel to give it a higher top speed. Its almost worked. I found the correct sequence for the hall sensors and all leads are connected and new board is installed vertically as instructed. Only problem is the calibration. This board has bluetooth and no calibration points on the board. Calibration is done in the app, but the app is in chinese and i cant read it. I found a partial translation but even that is confusing as I still havnt been given clear instructions on how and when to press the calibrate buttons. It appears to be stable at vertical. I can lean it forward or back and it moves in that direction and ive even got on and rode a short distance. Trouble is when riding the pedals lean forward about 15 degrees and stay there while riding so i cant stand up straight. So its not really rideable as this lean is too close to the cut off angle. Heres some pics. And here is where I bought controller with instructions. http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/controller-for-electric-unicycle-with-bluetooth_60244443124.html?spm=a2700.7724838.35.1.fs4wjj My wheel is generic, supposedly 550w and I bought it from here: http://www.dhgate.com/product/wholesale-joyewheel-newest-item-electric/213373049.html#s2-23-7|4222809817 Any advise or help would be greatly appreciated! cheers jay
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