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EUC

Found 14 results

  1. Hi all, I have ordered 14D controller and the battery packs from ewheels. But when I try to install, the motor is not getting engaged. The controller is beeping. Also I checked the motor connection cables several times. Attaching the video regarding the same. Any help is highly appreciated. KS 14D.mp4 Adding another video.... KS 14d_2.mp4
  2. Does anyone know where I can get body parts for a "Moby" wheel? It has two wheels side by side. The plastic is badly damaged and the controller might be bad. I am new to this, I do have experience with electric bikes and regular unicycles.
  3. Hey all, I'm trying to determine if this is an issue with the latest firmware update, a problem with the control board, or another issue entirely. Most recently I have noticed that my Z10's center of balance is making more drastic changes at low speeds. When I start the unit up and begin making small movements, I can feel the sensor reset slightly and at times have had the footplate tilt back and forward a significant amount before slowly resetting. This isn't as extreme as the issue linked in the post below, but is significantly different than when I got the unit. Again it hasn't affected
  4. What is the maximum continuous current that this controller can handle? The MOSFETs are labeled as 100v, but I can't find any information about the controllers ability to handle current.
  5. If you have the 100v MSX with the oscillation problem, then this post might help you with the upgrade. This only affects the recent batch of MSuper Xs from eWheels with 1860 wh batteries. @Jason McNeil has been working with Gotway to provide new controllers and after the first batch was a bust, we have the replacements and are ready to try them out. First heads up is that the new controllers were sent with the wrong main connector (at least mine was). It has the smaller XT-60 connector which is not going to fit. The one that you currently have is most likely the XT-90 which is the heavier
  6. Hi All, Moving in from the Firmware topic into its own topic for Open Sourced Hardware. Over the next little while I will move all the content from Firmware onto this post. I've been working on Reverse engineering the Gen2 boards as a starting point for development. Should have that done and posted today. We hope to be able to use the same Git to do both Hardware and Firmware advancements. I will post the important links as they come to this page. Lets keep the topic to Hardware. Although I have a Mechatroincs background my firmware skills are limited so we will de
  7. Hi all! I have search a lot around this forum and other pages but still haven't found enough detail about the controller card of the Gotway EUC's. In particular the Msuper 3 since I'm currently working on a separate power-board with either 6 sturdier MOSFET's or 12 smaller as the original. Since most controller cards share the same basic setup I suspect that we could gather "all knowledge" in the same thread. One reason to go for 12 MOSFET's is the fact that there are components that them self may cope with currents above 360A but the connector leads stop at around 160-180A. So the
  8. Here is an image of the controller board from my generic electrically locked up Step-n-Roll, with wire color codes, for reference. If anyone has information on the undocumented connector lands, I will be happy to update the image and re-post.
  9. Hi all! I got a really good price on a smashed up Msuper3 so I'm now wheeling around as a newbie on a heavily duct taped wheel. Everything was working at first. Step one however was to dismantle and examine since I had to now where the cracks went. I then left the controller disconnected from the battery for about a week. When I reconnected power to the controller card both capacitors charged up with a minor flash at the connection. Not good at all! GotWay uses no resistor as protection and after this neither my own Bluetooth-board or the one I borrowed from a friend will show
  10. Hello Experts I have an existing 16 inch-wheel hub motor. The controller and battery were damaged and I ordered a new set but not from original supplier. I am not sure what motor rating is the new controller designed for. My new battery is rated at 67v max. After assembling the motor to the controller and battery pack, I turned on the unicycle and I lifted the wheel before powering it up. The gyro is working and the wheel can rotate fore-aft. The only problem it seems is that when transitioning from one direction of rotation to the opposite direction (by tilting the machine), the motor seems t
  11. Hello, I bought my Ninebot in June from Ian (speedyfeet.uk). Until October 21st I rode more than 750 Km and I was absolutely happy with that wheel. But on October 21st the controller board died (Firmware 1.2.7) and the disaster took its course. (after a normal ride I switched off the bot and it would not switch on again) Chronology of a service disaster: October 21st. short after the update to firmware 1.2.7 ( I missed the 1.2.6 version ) my bot died and I asked Ian what to do. October 23rd. after a few emails with Ian, it was clear that the controller board
  12. So my legway needed repair as it wasn't starting So i ordered a new controller from aliexpress Connected it and was excited but no Legway is not starting I tried calibrating by shorting the two points It only beeps And then a never ending long beep I noticed one thing when connect the 3 phase wires with transparent green caps The motor doesnt rotate freely with or without battery When i remove that the rotor moves freely manually The beep never ends Also two days back sane connections legway had stabilized but didnt move when tilted a
  13. Success! (Almost) finally for my little upgrade project. First a quick recap. I had a chinese direct generic 550watt EUC with usual 18km/hr top speed, standard pedal rising and annoying beeps.. but a good performer. Been the hacking geek and not satisfied with the speed I ordered a 30 km/h microworks built mcm control board (30BS), with bluetooth. It looked quite different from my original board (which had no bluetooth). Sadly it wouldnt ride, after many combos of hall sensors and power leads I gave up and went back to my original board, but then while installing some LED lights I shorted out
  14. Hi everyone. I have a generic 500w 18km/h EUC. I recently bought a 30 km/h control board to see if I could upgrade the wheel to give it a higher top speed. Its almost worked. I found the correct sequence for the hall sensors and all leads are connected and new board is installed vertically as instructed. Only problem is the calibration. This board has bluetooth and no calibration points on the board. Calibration is done in the app, but the app is in chinese and i cant read it. I found a partial translation but even that is confusing as I still havnt been given clear instructions on how and whe
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