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My DIY solution what I missed on V11: bluetooth speakers, android terminal (with powerbank for long ussage) for navigation, eWheel apps, turn signal lights / winkers, action camera etc. I have considered a solution that does not require any destructive changes on the unicycle.

Three days ago, I bought a KingSong S18 for the Inmotion V11 as a tandem. I'm happy to have both. I recently created an upgrade for Inmotion V11. I made a similar light upgrade for my new KS-S18. Can be fitted with any accessories with gopro mount: bluetooth mini speaker, action camera, Android terminal holder, etc.

Hi Peeps. I've been riding the Gotway Tesla for nearly 5 months and decided I want to upgrade the tyre to a wider tyre. I've heard people say they upgraded to a 2.4 or 2.5 inch road tyre but never seen anybody say what tyre and provide links to where to buy it from. I would be grateful if you could provide links im based in the UK and fancy seeing what the ride difference will be on a wider tyre. Thanks alot in advance

This is the Michelin City Pro tire. I bought it after i ran a flat for the 2nd time, might as well try something new. Wow! what a facelift What i noticed right away was that the rubber and sidewalls where much stiffer, this makes it possible for me to ride with even lower PSI and get the same dampening, while keeping the same control as with the stock tire. So by default, i use around 30/35 psi, now i could get away with just 20 psi. 1st thought from the first few meters of rolling, "damn this is smooth" Almost no sound from the tire at all, and it felt planted solid to the ground. I also felt that the wheel rode more upright than before. Perhaps my old tire was a bit skewed, idk. I feared that it might be sharp and easily tip over because of the more aggressive curve, especially in quick turns, but that was not the case at all. It felt just as grippy as the old tire, but the dampening is better id say. Much less of the roads imperfections are noticed while riding this. Installation was not any harder than normal, same old. Its a shame that the season is over here where i live, but i will make sure to ride as soon as the temperature goes up

Hey guys, I play music when riding my KS16, but I want to upgrade the speakers to be louder. Has anyone any experience on doing that? Any problems when changing the speakers that I should be aware of? And what speaker did you try out? I want the whole city to know I'm coming their way.

Just a curiosity: why, during the firmware upgrade, the wheel has to lay on a side?

If you have the 100v MSX with the oscillation problem, then this post might help you with the upgrade. This only affects the recent batch of MSuper Xs from eWheels with 1860 wh batteries. @Jason McNeil has been working with Gotway to provide new controllers and after the first batch was a bust, we have the replacements and are ready to try them out. First heads up is that the new controllers were sent with the wrong main connector (at least mine was). It has the smaller XT-60 connector which is not going to fit. The one that you currently have is most likely the XT-90 which is the heavier duty cousin. It's a significant difference as shown below. The XT-90 is on the left and the XT-60 is on the right. My recommendation is if you received a bad controller a few weeks ago (that apparently causes the wheel to catch fire), that board has the XT-90 connector. So you can heat up the wires on the connector end of the bad controller and remove the XT-90. Nobody should ever use those bad controllers now anyway, so you should be safe to re-purpose it. I'd recommend not trying to remove the wires that are soldered directly to the controller as you risk damaging the electronics. I'd also go with the XT-90 and not downgrade to the XT-60 since it's a more robust connector. We don't ever really want to downgrade, right? Also, keeping with the XT-90 instead of retrofitting to the XT-60 makes it possible to go back to the old controller in case you ever need to. My soldering is definitely not pro quality, but I also put on a heat shrink wrap after the picture above and then the bottom part of the connector slides up and covers those wires. Once you have replaced the connector with the XT-90, then you are ready to install the board. This is a handy cheat sheet to show you which wires go where: It's a little confusion because the documentation on the old board shows a 5V fan connection and the new board shows a 12V fan connection. Probably a typo. If my cheat sheet above helps, great. Otherwise you can use these Chinese docs: Old Board New Board The new board now needs to be tested. I gave it a quick spin in the dark, but should be able to put it through its paces tomorrow. I'm interested in feedback from anyone else that is in the process of upgrading the controller. If these tips help in any way, then I'm glad of that.

So, I felt like the stock MSX tire is fine for the street, but pretty weak on any kind of trail. I wanted to try out a dual sport tire which could work on the trails and the road. I decided to try out the Shinko 244. There are other options out there that people have tried, but I really liked the look of this one. The problem is that tire lists the width at 2.75". Then the specs show that it is at 2.95" which is only about 1/8" wider than the stock tire. So, I thought, it should be fine. However, inflated the tire really measures about 3.25". Ouch, so what to do? I had to use a belt sander and sand that thing down on the sides to make it fit. I also had to take the entire wheel apart in order to sand the housing and give it a little more clearance. So, for the rated difficulty of installing this tire, I'm not sure I can recommend it. But I LOVE how it works when finally installed. Virgin tire - road only at this point. Time to get dirty... Morning ride after San Diego rain. It can get a little muddy out here on these hills. But the views are great. As you can see, I definitely need a mud flap now because the nice upgraded one from eWheels won't fit on this tire at all. Loose soil, sand, bark, gravel, straight up mud are no match for this thing. Stable and solid like it's glued to the road from what I've tried so far. I'll let you know how it's working once I've put a few more miles on it.

Hi All, Moving in from the Firmware topic into its own topic for Open Sourced Hardware. Over the next little while I will move all the content from Firmware onto this post. I've been working on Reverse engineering the Gen2 boards as a starting point for development. Should have that done and posted today. We hope to be able to use the same Git to do both Hardware and Firmware advancements. I will post the important links as they come to this page. Lets keep the topic to Hardware. Although I have a Mechatroincs background my firmware skills are limited so we will definitely need some support from our Firmware buffs. Welcome to the topic. Mo

So... I've put 200 km on my V8, (my first wheel) unlocked it to 30 km/h, and and am ready for an upgrade. It'll probably have to wait a bit, but I've been doing some research in preparation and would love some feedback! In terms of my requirements: Speed: Ridiculous speeds are not what I'm after; a 35 km/h cruising speed is fine, but I reckon I'd like to aim for a 50-ish km/h max. speed for overtaking purposes and to have an ample safety margin in terms of overleaning, accidentally hitting bumps at speed, etc. TORQUE: The main decisive factor. I live in a very hilly area, and although the V8's 30 km/h cruising speed is fine on flatter roads, and I'm impressed how well it does going up steep hills, that's not what it's made for and it does so at a sluggish pace. Aside from being able to maintain cruising speed even up hills and having a wheel that I won't melt in 6 months on this type of terrain, TORQUE is a must for in case I need to accelerate, for any reason, half way up a hill, etc. Battery/range: In the long term, I reckon I'll be doing a lot of mixed riding, from urban use to countryside, offroad, etc., so I'm after something with a decent range for touring too, and with the battery power to match the torque, needless to say (although those go hand in hand in wheel design anyway) So, my main candidates are: IM V10: Was originally on the list, and is definitely a good wheel from all I've read (and seen), but not sure it ticks all the boxes. KS18XL: Ticks the speed and range boxes, and from what I've seen, seems to be a very well balanced wheel (comfort, pedals, maneuverability), but I haven't read anything about the torque. I'm not too keen on the aggressive throttling and tiltback of the KS18L, although the XL's extra battery capacity should make battery-related throttling a rare occurrence in daily riding...(Update: confirmed > based on houseofjob's review, the throttling threshold has been lowered to sub-30% battery). Love the matte look and lights too, as well as the handle. GW MS3+ (v3.7, 1600Wh): Probably my top contender. Ticks all the boxes, I'm guessing with additional torque that the 18XL probably lacks. The 18' wheel is perfect (like with the KS18XL), as having learned on the V8, which is a tall wheel, it shouldn't be too hard, and I don't think will be much of an issue for city riding. What I don't like is the pedals' inward tilt & lack of a mudguard. Don't mind the lack of kill switch, as it isn't something I'll be using often. Have also read that it's a bit top-heavy, which isn't ideal for maneuverability. GW MSX2: Ticks all the same boxes as the MS3+. Range is better, and despite battery size, am guessing that with the MOSFET TO-247, torque doesn't suffer. Probably better for offroading, but a 19" wheel might not be the best for city riding. In short, I'm after an all-rounder that I can use for anything, that's powerful, safe (margin for overlean and overcurrent when not near top speed), and comfortable for daily use, whether in the countryside or in the city. What are you guys' 2 cents? Folks who have ridden them...what am I missing, overlooking or need to take into consideration? Thanks!

Got tired of carrying around the bulky charger to charge on the go on trips. So I had an idea to wire the charger internally, charging with the same 4-pin plug but off a 110v into the charger. Also solving the problem with battery power at the charging port .