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EUC

Found 16 results

  1. If you have the 100v MSX with the oscillation problem, then this post might help you with the upgrade. This only affects the recent batch of MSuper Xs from eWheels with 1860 wh batteries. @Jason McNeil has been working with Gotway to provide new controllers and after the first batch was a bust, we have the replacements and are ready to try them out. First heads up is that the new controllers were sent with the wrong main connector (at least mine was). It has the smaller XT-60 connector which is not going to fit. The one that you currently have is most likely the XT-90 which is the heavier duty cousin. It's a significant difference as shown below. The XT-90 is on the left and the XT-60 is on the right. My recommendation is if you received a bad controller a few weeks ago (that apparently causes the wheel to catch fire), that board has the XT-90 connector. So you can heat up the wires on the connector end of the bad controller and remove the XT-90. Nobody should ever use those bad controllers now anyway, so you should be safe to re-purpose it. I'd recommend not trying to remove the wires that are soldered directly to the controller as you risk damaging the electronics. I'd also go with the XT-90 and not downgrade to the XT-60 since it's a more robust connector. We don't ever really want to downgrade, right? Also, keeping with the XT-90 instead of retrofitting to the XT-60 makes it possible to go back to the old controller in case you ever need to. My soldering is definitely not pro quality, but I also put on a heat shrink wrap after the picture above and then the bottom part of the connector slides up and covers those wires. Once you have replaced the connector with the XT-90, then you are ready to install the board. This is a handy cheat sheet to show you which wires go where: It's a little confusion because the documentation on the old board shows a 5V fan connection and the new board shows a 12V fan connection. Probably a typo. If my cheat sheet above helps, great. Otherwise you can use these Chinese docs: Old Board New Board The new board now needs to be tested. I gave it a quick spin in the dark, but should be able to put it through its paces tomorrow. I'm interested in feedback from anyone else that is in the process of upgrading the controller. If these tips help in any way, then I'm glad of that.
  2. So, I felt like the stock MSX tire is fine for the street, but pretty weak on any kind of trail. I wanted to try out a dual sport tire which could work on the trails and the road. I decided to try out the Shinko 244. There are other options out there that people have tried, but I really liked the look of this one. The problem is that tire lists the width at 2.75". Then the specs show that it is at 2.95" which is only about 1/8" wider than the stock tire. So, I thought, it should be fine. However, inflated the tire really measures about 3.25". Ouch, so what to do? I had to use a belt sander and sand that thing down on the sides to make it fit. I also had to take the entire wheel apart in order to sand the housing and give it a little more clearance. So, for the rated difficulty of installing this tire, I'm not sure I can recommend it. But I LOVE how it works when finally installed. Virgin tire - road only at this point. Time to get dirty... Morning ride after San Diego rain. It can get a little muddy out here on these hills. But the views are great. As you can see, I definitely need a mud flap now because the nice upgraded one from eWheels won't fit on this tire at all. Loose soil, sand, bark, gravel, straight up mud are no match for this thing. Stable and solid like it's glued to the road from what I've tried so far. I'll let you know how it's working once I've put a few more miles on it.
  3. Hi All, Moving in from the Firmware topic into its own topic for Open Sourced Hardware. Over the next little while I will move all the content from Firmware onto this post. I've been working on Reverse engineering the Gen2 boards as a starting point for development. Should have that done and posted today. We hope to be able to use the same Git to do both Hardware and Firmware advancements. I will post the important links as they come to this page. Lets keep the topic to Hardware. Although I have a Mechatroincs background my firmware skills are limited so we will definitely need some support from our Firmware buffs. Welcome to the topic. Mo
  4. So... I've put 200 km on my V8, (my first wheel) unlocked it to 30 km/h, and and am ready for an upgrade. It'll probably have to wait a bit, but I've been doing some research in preparation and would love some feedback! In terms of my requirements: Speed: Ridiculous speeds are not what I'm after; a 35 km/h cruising speed is fine, but I reckon I'd like to aim for a 50-ish km/h max. speed for overtaking purposes and to have an ample safety margin in terms of overleaning, accidentally hitting bumps at speed, etc. TORQUE: The main decisive factor. I live in a very hilly area, and although the V8's 30 km/h cruising speed is fine on flatter roads, and I'm impressed how well it does going up steep hills, that's not what it's made for and it does so at a sluggish pace. Aside from being able to maintain cruising speed even up hills and having a wheel that I won't melt in 6 months on this type of terrain, TORQUE is a must for in case I need to accelerate, for any reason, half way up a hill, etc. Battery/range: In the long term, I reckon I'll be doing a lot of mixed riding, from urban use to countryside, offroad, etc., so I'm after something with a decent range for touring too, and with the battery power to match the torque, needless to say (although those go hand in hand in wheel design anyway) So, my main candidates are: IM V10: Was originally on the list, and is definitely a good wheel from all I've read (and seen), but not sure it ticks all the boxes. KS18XL: Ticks the speed and range boxes, and from what I've seen, seems to be a very well balanced wheel (comfort, pedals, maneuverability), but I haven't read anything about the torque. I'm not too keen on the aggressive throttling and tiltback of the KS18L, although the XL's extra battery capacity should make battery-related throttling a rare occurrence in daily riding...(Update: confirmed > based on houseofjob's review, the throttling threshold has been lowered to sub-30% battery). Love the matte look and lights too, as well as the handle. GW MS3+ (v3.7, 1600Wh): Probably my top contender. Ticks all the boxes, I'm guessing with additional torque that the 18XL probably lacks. The 18' wheel is perfect (like with the KS18XL), as having learned on the V8, which is a tall wheel, it shouldn't be too hard, and I don't think will be much of an issue for city riding. What I don't like is the pedals' inward tilt & lack of a mudguard. Don't mind the lack of kill switch, as it isn't something I'll be using often. Have also read that it's a bit top-heavy, which isn't ideal for maneuverability. GW MSX2: Ticks all the same boxes as the MS3+. Range is better, and despite battery size, am guessing that with the MOSFET TO-247, torque doesn't suffer. Probably better for offroading, but a 19" wheel might not be the best for city riding. In short, I'm after an all-rounder that I can use for anything, that's powerful, safe (margin for overlean and overcurrent when not near top speed), and comfortable for daily use, whether in the countryside or in the city. What are you guys' 2 cents? Folks who have ridden them...what am I missing, overlooking or need to take into consideration? Thanks!
  5. Got tired of carrying around the bulky charger to charge on the go on trips. So I had an idea to wire the charger internally, charging with the same 4-pin plug but off a 110v into the charger. Also solving the problem with battery power at the charging port .
  6. Hello All, People usually ask me about how can i stand in balance while riding my euc. I have recently heard about spherical tires for cars. But this can be better for a euc bcs one can never lost his/her balance. Of course, for such a modification, EUCs have to upgrade their gyroscopic circuits. I just wanted to ask if this modification is simple or not? What do you think? Is this the future?
  7. tilt back is killing me because of my max speed limit on the V5F. Ive even experimented with extreme pedal tilt back (-5-6 i think) which eases my calf stress a bit but ive gone back to 0degrees for stability/familiarity.. any tips or pers. exp? thx and ride hard, but safe as you want
  8. Hey guys, I play music when riding my KS16, but I want to upgrade the speakers to be louder. Has anyone any experience on doing that? Any problems when changing the speakers that I should be aware of? And what speaker did you try out? I want the whole city to know I'm coming their way.
  9. I stumbled over this seller on Aliexpress, selling accessories for Kingsong 16 inch wheels: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/KINGSONG-16inch-electric-unicycle-All-accessories-parts-motor-shell-Controller-motherboard-Pull-rod-handle-lever-Light/32832356086.html This made me think about if it would be possible to upgrade my Kingsong KS16B to KS16S by replacing my current motor and controller card with new ones? Since I think I have read that the shell is almost the same for B and S. Not that I am exactly sure what model the accessories from this Aliexpress seller is suitable for, you cannot tell from the product descriptions (at least I can't...). But, hypothetically: would it be possible, or if not: what would be the caveats? And would it be enough to replace the motor and the controller or are there other parts that are vital for a successful upgrade?
  10. So yes, I fell in love with EUC, I managed to ride around some KM with my Inmotion V8 learning machine. It’s a great machine and gets me everywhere I like. It’s fast and did not fail me! The only thing that concerned me was the range. After a full charge the battery turns red after about 13 km, with a constant speed of 25 km/h, and a weight of 95 kg (last is probably the biggest factor of range). That’s all good and it let me finish a fun trail, but I want to do some bigger trails and don’t have to worry about my range. I like the 16 inch, and don’t wat to step up to 18 inch (I like to keep it low profile, so not everybody starts to see it as a monster vehicle) Do you guys have valid upgrade options? Which give me at least double the range, and the same speed 25-30 km/h. Don’t need to go faster I really like the constant speed I’m currently used to. I keep looking at the Gotway ACM, 1300 version. Or the king song 16s versions. What do you guys think? Is it even possible with my weight/constant speed. So what are great upgrade routes coming from an Inmotion V8?
  11. I found myself constantly adjusting my stance, scooting my feet around on the unicycle pedals, especially in wet conditions. I got some grip tape and ucame up with a great way to squeeze it in between the grooves of the pedals: a tiny bearing on the end of a metal rod. The difference was night and day; my feet feel practically stuck to the pedals (even flip flops don't shift at all!), and my control improved so dramatically that I actually started getting better range out of a charge. I figure it's because I was rocking back and forth less, so it didn't have to compensate as much to keep me upright. Also, I really like the look of the tape I chose
  12. Hi All, when I try to upgrade from 1.20 to 1.21 on my KS16, the following happens: .) I enter the firmware upgrade page in the app, there I see the 1.21 upgrade is available, .) then I press the download button, and absolutely nothing happens. I tried it several times in the last 8 hours, both with app versions 1.2 and 1.4, always the same. It looks like as the firmware can't just be downloaded. Is the Kingsong server overloaded, or is that another problem ? Thanks for any help!
  13. I have a hoverboard with 10" wheels. It has a battery pack with 36v/4.4ah (battery model: ICR18650-20P CHINA DS). I want to upgrade, since the batteries are failing (cheap). I want to replace them with quality 3.7 9800 mAh 18650. Has anyone done this and do you use the same charging cord? I can provide pics if you need to see the hoverboard.
  14. Greetings EU people My name is Jim from Greece, I would like to share my experience. Couple of months ago I bought an X3 clone with a "132 Wh" sticker on it, but a 88Wh battery on the instruction manual. I thought I should learn to ride on a cheap thing and smash it without really caring about it before upgrading to a better model. Anyway, with one hour of practice a day just after work I managed to ride it with some confidence within a week ( don't be rough on me I am almost 40years old not a kid). By learning I mean being able to start it and turn without needing to grab on to something. I am still learning and will keep on learning. I am not the best balanced person in no way...but still everybody stares at me like I am an alien or something! The first problem I noticed was the charger. Too little time to charge (just 25mins?) and going from red to green and red again in small intervals when almost full. I know from previous electric vehicles that this is not the way it happens. Being an auto mechanic and since I had an e-bike scooter and e-bike before I was sort of familiar with Hub motors, controllers and batteries. This never happened to any of my previous vehicles. My suspicion that something was wrong was confirmed when while trying to accelerate, the EU turn off and I had my first (and only till this moment) faceplant. I hurt my hands (minor scratches) and my right leg near the knee. The verdict: the batteries were TOTALLY USELESS or at least NOT SUITABLE for such a device. Maybe a flashlight and not in an emergency would be fine! I took immediate action and ordered 16 cells of SAMSUNG 18650 at 2.6Ah (the purple ones). Within a day I had them over and opened the battery cover to take the original pack with BMS out and replace them. Needless to say the pack had a sticker 2.0Ah but even the most UNRELATED to electronics person would understand that a charger giving 2.0Amps would require at least one hour to fully charge them and not just 25 mins. Anyway, one by one the cells were in place on the BMS and soldered so nothing will tear them apart.... Put the new pack back in and closed the cover. The first test was the charging, It took 90mins to fully charge. Success! The device has never turned off and surely lasts a hell of lot more than before. I can get at least 7kms before the last LED. But since I still have the fear of the one last led standing faceplant, I decided to install a volt meter to be sure about it. So I opened the other cover as well, to investigate where to connect the 3 wires for the digital voltmeter. The motherboard has a sticker X5 on it. So it might be the same as an airwheel X5. I have found a + and - of battery voltage when turning the device on and near the cables of the LEDs for SOC, the low voltage + to feed the voltmeter. (Should explain that the digital volt meter requires a "+" and "-" of under 30V to operate and the third wire, usually yellow, is the measurable Voltage to be indicated). Still waiting the arrival of the package with the volt meter. The box is cut a small rectangle ready for it and the cables soldered. As soon as it arrives, it will be on. The last 5 days I went to work on it. I have to take the charger with me just to be sure but I can't live on like this!!! Now I have a plan to install 16 more battery cells in it. I think if I solder each cell parallel to an existing cell it will work. The BMS won't shut off, since the power requested will still be the same and cells being parallel will split the load and last longer.... If it can last 20kms I will surely be satisfied. The question I still need to find an answer to, is whether I need to buy the same cells as the ones I 've installed (2.6Ah) or ones of a different capacity (ie 3.2Ah)? Enough for now... I will post pics as soon as I finish the upgrades...
  15. So, I received a notice that there is a firmware upgrade and decided to "try" it (for my V3s). Well, first it messed up my password access, then erroneosly reported my euc's charge/battery level. So, as I couldn't undo the upgrade, I uninstalled the app, then reinstalled it. Problem is, now the app keeps crashing. Can anyone say if this will affect euc performance since the firmware upgrade seems to have already been applied? Based on my experience, can't say I recommend the upgrade.
  16. Hey Guys, i I have bought my Ninebot One C in Taiwan from China. I choose model C because it's rated 99Wh and so it's legal in planes. I also had no problems to bring it with air China. But now I am back in Germany and want to upgrade the battery. I just wanna ask, if somebody did this before. There are two main questions: wich Battery's fit inside the model C? (C+, E, E+) are they regoniced from the software, so the unit is getting faster? I also thought about buying (better) cells myself and put them in. But the extra work soldering is not really worth the price I would pay less. i found this two links: http://www.electricunicycleonline.com/original-320wh-battery-for-ninebot-one-e.html ( said in the comments it's non fitting in the c) http://www.speedyfeet.uk/Ninebot-One-240wh-Replacement-Spare-Battery-p/ninebot-one-240wh.htm (say e battery fit in c) now, where are the differentes? What is possible? thank you! (please no "go to a shop!" Etc comments, I am a electric engineer thank you! )
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