Nivel Posted August 30, 2021 Share Posted August 30, 2021 (edited) On 8/28/2021 at 12:59 AM, Ronin Ryder said: wait, Gotway changed the tire of the mpro for an offroad one? They gave me options to choose from. I chose the offroad, Extremely stable handling on dirt roads. But this tire doesnt want to turn, sharp turns over 30kmh are nearly impossible. U turns are also extremely hard to perform. I am thinking of buying Kenda offroad tire which has better performance in corners. Edited August 30, 2021 by Nivel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unipilot69 Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 I put a cst c6004 on my RS. I have the high speed version (c30). My riding is mixed between trail and street commute. The tread does quite well in loose dirt. I usually go on extreme trails. It has great grip on the street with proper sidewall support. I don't know if they make that tread pattern in an 18" size. I ordered a vee rubber vrm054 for the monster pro that I have on order. That was recommended by Ben Kim a few posts back. I don't know when the monster pro will show up. It was ordered in June. I have received the tire in July. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMA Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 21 hours ago, Nivel said: I am thinking of buying Kenda offroad tire which has better performance in corners. do yourself a favour and put a street tire, knobby tire on a monster is simply a nightmare 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexutlang Posted September 3, 2021 Share Posted September 3, 2021 On 8/30/2021 at 9:59 PM, Nivel said: They gave me options to choose from. I chose the offroad, Extremely stable handling on dirt roads. But this tire doesnt want to turn, sharp turns over 30kmh are nearly impossible. U turns are also extremely hard to perform. I am thinking of buying Kenda offroad tire which has better performance in corners. I had the same knobby tire and I damaged my Mpro rim on the 1st day of owning it. I was not able to turn at high speed and hit a concrete barrier. I changed it to michelin city pro and it's way easier to control it. I hit 91kph on euc world default setting and it's very stable 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMA Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 On 9/3/2021 at 4:45 PM, Alexutlang said: I had the same knobby tire and I damaged my Mpro rim on the 1st day of owning it sorry for your rim some people think that a knobby tire will protect the rim more, it's the opposite. Knobby tire do not have the side structure used by street tire, they are softer and designed to copy the terrain and have better grip. you'll have way more possibilities to damage a rim with a knobby tire than a street one 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planemo Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 (edited) 6 hours ago, EMA said: you'll have way more possibilities to damage a rim with a knobby tire than a street one I would have to disagree with that. The tread pattern is irrelevant, its all to do with the construction. A slick tubeless tyre like a Michelin Pilot has a way stiffer carcass than a tubed K262 Sherman knobby. Edit: I think I may have misunderstood your post, but I maintain that tread pattern is irrelevant. Eg a Sherman knobby is stiffer than an H5102 msx tyre. Edited September 4, 2021 by Planemo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMA Posted September 5, 2021 Share Posted September 5, 2021 9 hours ago, Planemo said: I may have misunderstood your post probably man 9 hours ago, Planemo said: tread pattern is irrelevant exactly, i'm not speaking about them, i'm speaking about the sidewall structure which makes tires like Michelin, Continental ecc stiffer than the knobby we are using (c186 and k262) 9 hours ago, Planemo said: Sherman knobby is stiffer than an H5102 msx tyre. not sure about that, if you squeeze them with hands feels like that, if you compare 5102 (or 1488) with a reasonable pressure (which is +10 psi than a knobby) they'll act different. if you take a curb with both you'll see the difference, i've hit the shell 3-4 times with a knobby something never happened to me with any other tire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enaon Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 On 1/21/2021 at 7:35 PM, Arbolest said: Either way, I hope Gotway/Begode redesign this particular version of their control board and come up with something more electrically and thermally stable. They did redesigned it !! They made the fins part smaller, and covered them with a film of plastic, to make sure they are now useless. I am sure Russian users will be happy, this will now run a lot hotter than before. Well done Gotway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enaon Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 we have tried the new motherboard today, finally the brake signal on the tail light works!! but it only works when breaking while riding the wheel in reverse, tail light in the front. has anybody got a solution? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planemo Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 12 minutes ago, enaon said: but it only works when breaking while riding the wheel in reverse, tail light in the front. Are you sure you didn't fit the new board 180 degrees out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted September 30, 2021 Author Share Posted September 30, 2021 16 minutes ago, enaon said: we have tried the new motherboard today, finally the brake signal on the tail light works!! but it only works when breaking while riding the wheel in reverse, tail light in the front. has anybody got a solution? The MP black motherboard was supposed to fixed the non-functioning brake light. I have the V2/V3 board (not sure which exactly, but was built in the June time frame) and the brake light only works in reverse. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enaon Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 1 minute ago, Marty Backe said: The MP black motherboard was supposed to fixed the non-functioning brake light. I have the V2/V3 board (not sure which exactly, but was built in the June time frame) and the brake light only works in reverse. thanks for the confirmation. I m loosing my patience with them, I cannot understand how they can make a wheel that is so fun to ride, yet fail on such issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted September 30, 2021 Author Share Posted September 30, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, enaon said: thanks for the confirmation. I m loosing my patience with them, I cannot understand how they can make a wheel that is so fun to ride, yet fail on such issues. After a few years you'll get used to it Fortunately the brake light issue doesn't really bother me since I never see it and I don't really think anyone notices the brake light. People driving cars are too busy trying to figure out what the hell we are riding Edited September 30, 2021 by Marty Backe 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enaon Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 (edited) 39 minutes ago, Marty Backe said: After a few years you'll get used to it Fortunately the brake light issue doesn't really bother me since I never see it and I don't really think anyone notices the brake light. People driving cars are too busy trying to figure out what the hell we are riding I refuse to get used to things like that. joking aside, the s18 I am riding has a similar problem, the tail light is either a cruise light, or a brake light, the two modes cannot co exist, it really amazes me that months went by, and they have not yet fixed that. The main reason we changed the MP mainboard, was getting the tail light to work, there have been multiple occasions where I almost fell to the back of the monster because it had no brake lights. But I will solve it, no despair, no surrender. I have to admit though, the MP is a monster of a wheel. https://streamable.com/2zew1z Edited September 30, 2021 by enaon 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted September 30, 2021 Author Share Posted September 30, 2021 53 minutes ago, enaon said: I refuse to get used to things like that. joking aside, the s18 I am riding has a similar problem, the tail light is either a cruise light, or a brake light, the two modes cannot co exist, it really amazes me that months went by, and they have not yet fixed that. The main reason we changed the MP mainboard, was getting the tail light to work, there have been multiple occasions where I almost fell to the back of the monster because it had no brake lights. But I will solve it, no despair, no surrender. I have to admit though, the MP is a monster of a wheel. https://streamable.com/2zew1z I'm a little confused. How did "no brake lights" cause you difficulties in riding the wheel? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enaon Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Marty Backe said: I'm a little confused. How did "no brake lights" cause you difficulties in riding the wheel? poor use of the language, sorry. I am riding the s18, trying to catch up as usual, and I really appreciate the wheel in front having break lights, whenever the MP is in front, I find it challenging to keep a safe distance when moving inside the city. Edited September 30, 2021 by enaon 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted September 30, 2021 Author Share Posted September 30, 2021 1 hour ago, enaon said: poor use of the language, sorry. I am riding the s18, trying to catch up as usual, and I really appreciate the wheel in front having break lights, whenever the MP is in front, I find it challenging to keep a safe distance when moving inside the city. Ah, I understand now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giffy Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 Rode in the rain. This is what happened. Seems like all the water came in through the LED fixtures. I didn't see any water on the control board cooling fan. https://www.instagram.com/p/CT_znDpjUqR/?utm_medium=copy_link 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Unipilot69 Posted October 9, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted October 9, 2021 I received my monster pro on the 6th. Begode is improving their build quality. They still have a ways to go. On mine they sealed the led fixtures on the wheel well side but left the outside of each fixture bare. Their glue job has improved over the RS I got last year. I still need to remove the motor and check the grease in the bearings. Begode seems to source bearings that are packed with petroleum jelly. Those bearings are for food processing equipment, not outside in the elements. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post AtlasP Posted October 9, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted October 9, 2021 (edited) 4 hours ago, Unipilot69 said: I received my monster pro on the 6th. Begode is improving their build quality. They still have a ways to go. On mine they sealed the led fixtures on the wheel well side but left the outside of each fixture bare. Their glue job has improved over the RS I got last year. I still need to remove the motor and check the grease in the bearings. Begode seems to source bearings that are packed with petroleum jelly. Those bearings are for food processing equipment, not outside in the elements. One point I normally like to make regarding PC builds is that build quality does not just mean cable management--yes it evidences something about care/attention to detail, but in the end its a triviality compared to more fundamental concerns. (So many people see messy cables and assume a PC build is bad, even if it might have quality components and sufficient cooling [as long as the cables aren't *so bad* that they drastically undercut airflow] and can still be great; and conversely a few more cable ties do not magically improve build quality over more fundamental considerations like component quality and construction.) To my eyes looking at those pics, it seems to have better cable management/securing and I'll take your word the glue job may be a bit better, but on a fundamental level it looks like the inside of every other Gotway the last several years (since any last notable improvements like the metal threaded screw inserts a few years ago). Compare that to the V12 or what we're seeing of the S20 and it's night and day--and I don't just mean to point out how the V12 or S20 look to have better construction (although of course they do), I mean they seem to have better construction than even earlier InMotion and King Song Wheels--i.e. we see them improving over themselves as they iterate and develop new models. Begode just needs to show us *one* new wheel where someone opens it up and we can say "wow, ok, they're actually taking real steps to improve things", but so far I haven't seen anything notable really evidencing that. Edited October 9, 2021 by AtlasP 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unipilot69 Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 This build was better than my RS build. If I didn't open my RS it would have burned. The power lead to the control board had a large nick in the positive cable at the xt90 connector with exposed wire. Begode(Gotway) needs to better engineer their control boards. They run at the edge of failure. Begode is in a perpetual catch up loop on quality and hardware design. They're going to loose out when Kingsong and or Inmotion decide to open the speed cap. If either one of them can build a wheel that can travel mid to upper 40's mph (65 to 80 kph) with good headroom Begode will either have to step up on the quality and engineering or they'll fade away. It would be satisfying to have an euc designed and built in North America, Europe, or Japan. It most likely will never happen. The liability isn't worth the headache for a niche market. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted October 10, 2021 Share Posted October 10, 2021 (edited) The motor wires have Fiberglas insulation presumably because they get so hot their insulation might get melty. But then they disappear without Fiberglas into a single bundle with the hall sensor wires on their way to the motor. Do their wires heat up less as they get farther away from the power source? Is the control board so hot it would contribute to melting the insulation? The Fiberglas sleeve seems more like a bit of lipstick on a pig… I’d prefer to see wire that can handle the current. Or silicone insulation. Or both. I am still amazed at their wiring “harnesses”. Someone needs to show them a wiring form board. At least get the wire lengths so you don’t have to double the wire back on itself. Edited October 10, 2021 by Tawpie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Marty Backe Posted October 10, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 10, 2021 9 hours ago, AtlasP said: One point I normally like to make regarding PC builds is that build quality does not just mean cable management--yes it evidences something about care/attention to detail, but in the end its a triviality compared to more fundamental concerns. (So many people see messy cables and assume a PC build is bad, even if it might have quality components and sufficient cooling [as long as the cables aren't *so bad* that they drastically undercut airflow] and can still be great; and conversely a few more cable ties do not magically improve build quality over more fundamental considerations like component quality and construction.) To my eyes looking at those pics, it seems to have better cable management/securing and I'll take your word the glue job may be a bit better, but on a fundamental level it looks like the inside of every other Gotway the last several years (since any last notable improvements like the metal threaded screw inserts a few years ago). Compare that to the V12 or what we're seeing of the S20 and it's night and day--and I don't just mean to point out how the V12 or S20 look to have better construction (although of course they do), I mean they seem to have better construction than even earlier InMotion and King Song Wheels--i.e. we see them improving over themselves as they iterate and develop new models. Begode just needs to show us *one* new wheel where someone opens it up and we can say "wow, ok, they're actually taking real steps to improve things", but so far I haven't seen anything notable really evidencing that. Yeah, but can the V12 do what the Monster Pro can? Hardly. While many are waiting for the mythical "great" Gotway wheel, I'm out enjoying riding some of the best wheels ever made on planet Earth 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Unipilot69 Posted October 11, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted October 11, 2021 Looks like Begode switched the monster pro to the smaller bearings. These bearings appear to be appropriate for outside use. I didn't pop the seal to check the grease. I don't have a stand for my monster pro. I had one printed but the damn thing crushed it within 2 minutes. I use the stands to level the pedal hangars. The 6012 RS bearings cost about $40.00 a piece. I will probably run these as is and see what happens. I put a vee rubber vrm 054 tire on it. I was going to go tubeless but none of my valve stems seem to fit. I'll deal with it later. The tubes are a pain in the ass. I was able to mount it bare handed with the last few millimeters of bead I used my bicycle tire levers. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug Hnut Posted October 11, 2021 Share Posted October 11, 2021 1 hour ago, Unipilot69 said: Looks like Begode switched the monster pro to the smaller bearings. These bearings appear to be appropriate for outside use. I didn't pop the seal to check the grease. I don't have a stand for my monster pro. I had one printed but the damn thing crushed it within 2 minutes. I use the stands to level the pedal hangars. The 6012 RS bearings cost about $40.00 a piece. I will probably run these as is and see what happens. I put a vee rubber vrm 054 tire on it. I was going to go tubeless but none of my valve stems seem to fit. I'll deal with it later. The tubes are a pain in the ass. I was able to mount it bare handed with the last few millimeters of bead I used my bicycle tire levers. is the motor labeled "C30" ? it looks much smaller than the original. also curious if the shell has changed or not 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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