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On 8/28/2021 at 12:59 AM, Ronin Ryder said:

wait, Gotway changed the tire of the mpro for an offroad one?

They gave me options to choose from.

I chose the offroad, Extremely stable handling on dirt roads.

But this tire doesnt want to turn, sharp turns over 30kmh are nearly impossible.

U turns are also extremely hard to perform. 

I am thinking of buying Kenda offroad tire which has better performance in corners.

 

 

Edited by Nivel
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I put a cst c6004 on my RS. I have the high speed version (c30). My riding is mixed between trail and street commute. The tread does quite well in loose dirt. I usually go on extreme trails. It has great grip on the street with proper sidewall support. I don't know if they make that tread pattern in an 18" size. I ordered a vee rubber vrm054 for the monster pro that I have on order. That was recommended by Ben Kim a few posts back. I don't know when the monster pro will show up. It was ordered in June. I have received the tire in July.

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21 hours ago, Nivel said:

I am thinking of buying Kenda offroad tire which has better performance in corners.

do yourself a favour and put a street tire, knobby tire on a monster is simply a nightmare

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On 8/30/2021 at 9:59 PM, Nivel said:

They gave me options to choose from.

I chose the offroad, Extremely stable handling on dirt roads.

But this tire doesnt want to turn, sharp turns over 30kmh are nearly impossible.

U turns are also extremely hard to perform. 

I am thinking of buying Kenda offroad tire which has better performance in corners.

 

 

I had the same knobby tire and I damaged my Mpro rim on the 1st day of owning it. I was not able to turn at high speed and hit a concrete barrier. I changed it to michelin city pro and it's way easier to control it. I hit 91kph on euc world default setting and it's very stable

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On 9/3/2021 at 4:45 PM, Alexutlang said:

I had the same knobby tire and I damaged my Mpro rim on the 1st day of owning it

sorry for your rim :)

some people think that a knobby tire will protect the rim more, it's the opposite. Knobby tire do not have the side structure used by street tire, they are softer and designed to copy the terrain and have better grip.

you'll have way more possibilities to damage a rim with a knobby tire than a street one

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6 hours ago, EMA said:

you'll have way more possibilities to damage a rim with a knobby tire than a street one

I would have to disagree with that.

The tread pattern is irrelevant, its all to do with the construction. A slick tubeless tyre like a Michelin Pilot has a way stiffer carcass than a tubed K262 Sherman knobby.

Edit: I think I may have misunderstood your post, but I maintain that tread pattern is irrelevant. Eg a Sherman knobby is stiffer than an H5102 msx tyre.

Edited by Planemo
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9 hours ago, Planemo said:

I may have misunderstood your post

probably man :)

 

9 hours ago, Planemo said:

tread pattern is irrelevant

exactly, i'm not speaking about them,  i'm speaking about the sidewall structure which makes tires like Michelin, Continental ecc stiffer than the knobby we are using (c186 and k262)

9 hours ago, Planemo said:

Sherman knobby is stiffer than an H5102 msx tyre.

not sure about that, if you squeeze them with hands feels like that, if you compare 5102 (or 1488) with a reasonable pressure (which is +10 psi than a knobby) they'll act different.
if you take a curb with both you'll see the difference, i've hit the shell 3-4 times with a knobby something never happened to me with any other tire

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 1/21/2021 at 7:35 PM, Arbolest said:

Either way, I hope Gotway/Begode redesign this particular version of their control board and come up with something more electrically and thermally stable.

 

They did redesigned it !!

 

They made the fins part smaller, and covered them with a film of plastic, to make sure they are now useless. I am sure Russian users will be happy, this will now run a lot hotter than before. Well done Gotway. 

 

 

photo_2021-09-30_03-30-48.thumb.jpg.8da1d255d1500928ca604cd123e5cd5f.jpg

 

 

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16 minutes ago, enaon said:

we have tried the new motherboard today, finally the brake signal on the tail light works!! :D

 

but it only works when breaking while  riding the wheel in reverse, tail light in the front. :wacko:

has anybody got a solution?

The MP black motherboard was supposed to fixed the non-functioning brake light. I have the V2/V3 board (not sure which exactly, but was built in the June time frame) and the brake light only works in reverse.

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1 minute ago, Marty Backe said:

The MP black motherboard was supposed to fixed the non-functioning brake light. I have the V2/V3 board (not sure which exactly, but was built in the June time frame) and the brake light only works in reverse.

thanks for the confirmation. I m loosing my patience with them, I cannot understand how they can make a wheel that is so fun to ride, yet fail on such issues. 

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1 hour ago, enaon said:

thanks for the confirmation. I m loosing my patience with them, I cannot understand how they can make a wheel that is so fun to ride, yet fail on such issues. 

After a few years you'll get used to it :D

Fortunately the brake light issue doesn't really bother me since I never see it and I don't really think anyone notices the brake light. People driving cars are too busy trying to figure out what the hell we are riding :)

Edited by Marty Backe
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39 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

After a few years you'll get used to it :D

Fortunately the brake light issue doesn't really bother me since I never see it and I don't really think anyone notices the brake light. People driving cars are too busy trying to figure out what the hell we are riding :)

I refuse to get used to things like that.

joking aside, the s18 I am riding has a similar problem, the tail light is either a cruise light, or a brake light, the two modes cannot co exist, it really amazes me that months went by, and they have not yet fixed that. The main reason we changed the MP mainboard, was getting the tail light to work, there have been multiple occasions where I almost fell to the back of the monster because it had no brake lights. But I will solve it, no despair, no surrender. :D

 

I have to admit though, the MP is a monster of a wheel.

https://streamable.com/2zew1z

Edited by enaon
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53 minutes ago, enaon said:

I refuse to get used to things like that.

joking aside, the s18 I am riding has a similar problem, the tail light is either a cruise light, or a brake light, the two modes cannot co exist, it really amazes me that months went by, and they have not yet fixed that. The main reason we changed the MP mainboard, was getting the tail light to work,
there have been multiple occasions where I almost fell to the back of the monster because it had no brake lights. But I will solve it, no despair, no surrender:D

 

I have to admit though, the MP is a monster of a wheel.

https://streamable.com/2zew1z

I'm a little confused. How did "no brake lights" cause you difficulties in riding the wheel?

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1 hour ago, Marty Backe said:

I'm a little confused. How did "no brake lights" cause you difficulties in riding the wheel?

poor use of the language, sorry.
I am riding the s18, trying to catch up as usual, and I really appreciate the wheel in front having break lights, whenever the MP is in front, I find it challenging to keep a safe distance when moving inside the city.  :)

Edited by enaon
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1 hour ago, enaon said:

poor use of the language, sorry.
I am riding the s18, trying to catch up as usual, and I really appreciate the wheel in front having break lights, whenever the MP is in front, I find it challenging to keep a safe distance when moving inside the city.  :)

Ah, I understand now :thumbup:

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  • 2 weeks later...

This build was better than my RS build. If I didn't open my RS it would have burned. The power lead to the control board had a large nick in the positive cable at the xt90 connector with exposed wire. Begode(Gotway) needs to better engineer their control boards. They run at the edge of failure. Begode is in a perpetual catch up loop on quality and hardware design. They're going to loose out when Kingsong and  or Inmotion decide to open the speed cap. If either one of them can build a wheel that can travel mid to upper 40's mph (65 to 80 kph) with good headroom Begode will either have to step up on the quality and engineering or they'll fade away. It would be satisfying to have an euc designed and built in North America, Europe, or Japan. It most likely will never happen. The liability isn't worth the headache for a niche market.

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The motor wires have Fiberglas insulation presumably because they get so hot their insulation might get melty. But then they disappear without Fiberglas into a single bundle with the hall sensor wires on their way to the motor. Do their wires heat up less as they get farther away from the power source? Is the control board so hot it would contribute to melting the insulation? The Fiberglas sleeve seems more like a bit of lipstick on a pig… I’d prefer to see wire that can handle the current. Or silicone insulation. Or both.

I am still amazed at their wiring “harnesses”. Someone needs to show them a wiring form board. At least get the wire lengths so you don’t have to double the wire back on itself.

Edited by Tawpie
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