INMOTION V11 (2020)

[eucinsea]

1 minute ago, onizukagto said:

Watching Duf's live stream, it seems like you still have to remove screws. The saddle curved inwards, I assume this covers or obscure the full valve on the negative chamber. Hence you have to remove some of the screws to shift the saddle slightly up to allow access to the valve. 

I tried to get to them without this when I was stuck with stripped screws but it was very tight and wasn’t sure if I could even get the pump around the nozzle on top. Without stripped screws its easy-peasy to get to them, 4 small screws on each side. 

[Mark Wilson]

I'm surprised they didn't make it easier to access. Hopefully the negative chamber won't need to be adjusted/refilled often.

[Patton250]

1 hour ago, Unventor said:

Well the lag of BT speakers has been know since launch announcement. It has been debated a lot and post about this here in the forum.

As for the gyro effect I never complained about that on my KS16X. In fact I have said it was a trademark of the fun part of riding my KS16X despite it took some time to get used to. Now when I had my KS16X for services (the 2nd time) I got the tire changed. It is a easier ride now, but it took away some of the fun factor of that mc lean style.

So we are a few that like the gyro effect on the wheels. Some don't that is just how it is. One thing is for sure, it isn't putting me off. I just wounder why none mentioned this before.

I am still stoked to get my V11. The sad part is that it has not been shipped yet. 

I figured they must’ve talked about the Bluetooth and speaker thing earlier. Unfortunately I just don’t always have time to come here so I didn’t read about it. I don’t know why the YouTube guys didn’t talk about the gyro.  To be honest I don’t ever remember them talking about it in their videos with the 16 X either.

[Patton250]

1 hour ago, onizukagto said:

Watching Duf's live stream, it seems like you still have to remove screws. The saddle curved inwards, I assume this covers or obscure the full valve on the negative chamber. Hence you have to remove some of the screws to shift the saddle slightly up to allow access to the valve. 

I just put 50 psi in each side of the upper valves without removing any screws or the top. It was a pain unscrewing and screwing on the pump but I got it done. Total time invested 10 minutes. I bet my hands will be sore tomorrow though. LOL
 

I took a quick 10 minute bumpy ride and it seems to have made some improvement. I’ll know more tomorrow.

[onizukagto]

3 minutes ago, Patton250 said:

I just put 50 psi in each side of the upper valves without removing any screws or the top. It was a pain unscrewing and screwing on the pump but I got it done. Total time invested 10 minutes. I bet my hands will be sore tomorrow though. LOL
 

I took a quick 10 minute bumpy ride and it seems to have made some improvement. I’ll know more tomorrow.

Nice. I guess if really can't be bothered to unscrew stuff, you can do it. 

But they say you only need to do it once in a while, I guess every 6 months? Or once a month if you ride daily. 

[Ben Kim]

9 hours ago, Duf said:

Guess it's time to start 3D printing spare valve covers   

isn't it just a standard shraeder valve?  You could get those from any gas station or for free next to the air pumps at said gas stations.

[Ben Kim]

3 hours ago, Patton250 said:

Amazed that I missed out on one? I guess I’m confused by your statement. 

I remember dozens of pages of people complaining about the gyro feeling of the 16X. Lol. It was catastrophically horrible. In fact I can think of no other subject where people complained more on this forum. Now you’re the second guy that’s excited about this one being the same way. :-)

I mentioned this on the Inmotion telegram page, and all the noobs (including one who never rode an EUC before) claim "its fine".  I, for one, will be swapping that tire out for an H666 immediately.  Dealt with that tire for 2000+ miles on the Nikola 100V, and I sure as heck am not dealing with it for another 2000 miles on this wheel.

[Patton250]

8 minutes ago, Ben Kim said:

I mentioned this on the Inmotion telegram page, and all the noobs (including one who never rode an EUC before) claim "its fine".  I, for one, will be swapping that tire out for an H666 immediately.  Dealt with that tire for 2000+ miles on the Nikola 100V, and I sure as heck am not dealing with it for another 2000 miles on this wheel.

Yeah I was hoping I could avoid having to take another wheel apart and change the tire. I hope it’s easy on this one because I really don’t like this tire. Granted I’ve only gone about 35 miles but just like you said I don’t need to go 2000 miles to know I don’t like it.

[Patton250]

15 minutes ago, Ben Kim said:

I mentioned this on the Inmotion telegram page, and all the noobs (including one who never rode an EUC before) claim "its fine".  I, for one, will be swapping that tire out for an H666 immediately.  Dealt with that tire for 2000+ miles on the Nikola 100V, and I sure as heck am not dealing with it for another 2000 miles on this wheel.

What about a CY H-5167?

[Patton250]

11 hours ago, Sergey said:

 

This is nice but how many of us are going to tear the entire thing down? I would absolutely love a video on how to get the tire out. The quickest way to do it. The best way to do it.

[Ben Kim]

 

1 minute ago, Patton250 said:

This is nice but how many of us are going to tear the entire thing down? I would absolutely love a video on how to get the tire out. The quickest way to do it. The best way to do it.

It's not that bad, just follow that video for the first 3-4 minutes.  Seems perhaps a bit more annoying than a typical Gotway wheel, but once the pillar bolts and casing is off, the motor should pop right out the bottom.  You think that's bad, you've never seen or worked on a Z10 tire or even a Tesla.  

[Patton250]

2 minutes ago, Ben Kim said:

 

It's not that bad, just follow that video for the first 3-4 minutes.  Seems perhaps a bit more annoying than a typical Gotway wheel, but once the pillar bolts and casing is off, the motor should pop right out the bottom.  You think that's bad, you've never seen or worked on a Z10 tire or even a Tesla.  

I have a Z10 but you’re right I have never changed the tire. I have had to open it up and manually jump the batteries to get it to work again but that was pretty easy. Still I wish those guys would do a quick four minute video on how to get the tire out.

[eucinsea]

Anyone know what the difference in “drive modes” for the V11 in the Inmotion App is? 
 

 

[Ben Kim]

31 minutes ago, Patton250 said:

What about a CY H-5167?

a few of the Nik guys in NYC run that tire. Doesn’t have the gyro effect of the CST but more skittish at high speeds. It’s also a noticeably skinnier tire than the old CST. 

[Patton250]

14 minutes ago, Ben Kim said:

a few of the Nik guys in NYC run that tire. Doesn’t have the gyro effect of the CST but more skittish at high speeds. It’s also a noticeably skinnier tire than the old CST. 

That’s the tire I have on my Nik+ and 16X. I like it a lot. But you feel the H-666 is better?

17 minutes ago, prasket said:

Anyone know what the difference in “drive modes” for the V11 in the Inmotion App is? 
 

 

I tried in both and I didn’t notice much of a difference. Now granted I’ve only gone 35 miles so far. That’s really nothing. 

[mrelwood]

This was the explanation for the ride modes on the V10F. I would assume that it’s the same for the V11. I read it as Comfort having a linear response to pedal tilt and Classic to be soft at the center point but getting progressively harder as the pedals tilt forward or backwards.

[VizioN-Scope]

 

Edited July 17, 2020 by mrelwood
Same link was posted 12 times.

[stephen]

43 minutes ago, VizioN-Scope said:

 

I think he needs 45 psi in neg chamber then it be perfect, maybe for his riding conditions anyway👍

[kurt_hectic]

8 hours ago, Mark Wilson said:

I'm surprised they didn't make it easier to access. Hopefully the negative chamber won't need to be adjusted/refilled often.

In the manual valve extender is mentioned, probably for the upper valves. Do you have it?

[VizioN-Scope]

1 hour ago, stephen said:

I think he needs 45 psi in neg chamber then it be perfect, maybe for his riding conditions anyway👍

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Edited July 17, 2020 by VizioN-Scope

[stephen]

1 minute ago, VizioN-Scope said:

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

I didn't get the first 16 can you tell me again

[onizukagto]

2 minutes ago, VizioN-Scope said:

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

Or maybe something like 30 psi is enough for neg chamber. 

say again? 

[Sergey]

Just some thoughts after disassembly video if inmo:

 - looks like the suspension has Suntour Dual Air cartridge or similar https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/sr-suntour-rc-cartridge/136823876/p

 - there is an idea to modify the suspension by the way of change one of Dual Air cartridge to the cartridge with damper and lockout like that https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/sr-suntour-lock-out-cartridge/136823852/p

 New modified suspension will allow us to set rebound, therefore suspension will be in some case similar to s18.

 Could you pls send us the measures of the cartridge, which used in v11? 

[VizioN-Scope]

29 minutes ago, onizukagto said:

say again? 

Yea I have some problem with my antivirus, sry. It makes my text on this page post like 15 times. So I'm trying again now on a new browser. 

Edited July 17, 2020 by VizioN-Scope

[AtlasP]

Today I was extremely fortunate (along with my g/f) to meet up with both Jimmy Chang and Chooch in order to try both the prototype versions of the V11 and S18. And not just 'try' them, but I logged at least 60-75 minutes on the V11 and at least 30-45 minutes on the S18 over a three and a half hour window.

Some context about me/my perspective:

• I'm 5'9" & only ~150 lbs, and ride duck-footed.
• I own a 100v Nikola+, V10F, & V8 with around 4k combined miles spread fairly evenly, and have also logged at least a hundred+ miles on the KS16S & KS18XL which I love about as much as the wheels I own. (And I've tried a number of other wheels but often for only a few minutes here and there.)
• I'm 100% an urban street rider normally riding in the upper 20s mph in the city, with my priorities centered around ride quality/feel and confidence on pavement at those speeds (confidence=some combination of overall feel & stability, accommodating bumps/potholes, safety headroom, and production values/trustworthiness). Conversely I don't really care about off-roading or jumping (just not my thing)--although I do ride down curbs regularly and am working on riding down small sets of stairs.

My experience/takeaways about the V11:

• The V11 simply *felt amazing* to me both ergonomically and in overall stability & smoothness. I don't know how much is due to the shocks versus the motor/torque versus the tire size versus the weight distribution versus just how it fits my physical dimensions, etc, but the total combination just felt phenomenal--super comfortable, stable, smooth, and confidence-inducing. Also I absolutely love where it hits high on my leg just below the knee, and the outside of the saddle that makes contact with your leg is actually soft rubber, not hard plastic. (My girlfriend who is 5'4", while having an overall positive opinion of the V11's feel, did find the contact point a bit high for her preference/right at the knee. Although then I think for any average height guy or taller it should be absolutely fine.)
• Taking either suspension wheel over bumps/potholes or off curbs is simply categorically better than any non-suspension wheel I've ever ridden and feels wonderful. It's crazy to bend your knees extra and brace for the impact you're used to expecting, only for that impact to never really come because the suspension did much of the work for you. For my usage just over bumps/potholes and off curbs there wasn't any significant difference between them, they both just felt great and way better than my Nikola or any other wheel I've taken off curbs.
  • I tried them both off-road a bit and just don't feel qualified to express an opinion here. Also I suspect the pressure in the shocks should have a huge impact on the riding experience/changing this should produce a widely different feel for each wheel, and I simply didn't have time to try a wide range of pressures for both wheels to really gauge what was due to the hardware vs what was due to the shock pressure. In the end both were awesome for on-road bumps/potholes & off curbs, and I'll leave it to the off-road people with more time on them to talk about that part.
• I experienced zero gyro effect on this wheel, while I was very susceptible to it when I first got my Nikola, so I can't fathom someone claiming the inverse. (It's gotta be that people are using the same term to describe somewhat different things?) I found it surprisingly easy to turn for the size & weight and I'm not sure I understand why other than the thin profile & weight distribution? It turned exactly like my V10F and nothing like my Nikola, which is only a good thing.
• The V11's weight was indistinguishable from my 100v Nikola+, but because of the V11's much better carrying handle, being narrower, and being higher off the ground (requiring me to bend down less) it was actually a bit nicer/easier to lift.
• Pedal height was fine but I did manage to scrape the pedals once when I turned extra sharp (which I've done on lots of wheels/not particularly unique), so I think another little bit added to the pedal height (as reported on the final production model) would be welcome vs anything to be worried about.
• The V11 also *looks gorgeous* in person and extremely premium. (Renders don't do it justice.) It looks like a proper vehicle with the top shape and front & back lights and just oozes quality/refinement, and it is even more reminiscent of the Z10 in person. By comparison all the older EUCs present (from all three major brands) looked like toys beside it.
• Speaking of the lights, and as has already been said by others, both the headlight and taillight are simply unmatched. The headlight is incredibly bright and low & wide and the taillight looks great.
• Both the carry handle and trolley handle are fantastic. (I've always been a staunch advocate of the luggage-style trolley handles over scorpion ones, but for all intents and purposes the V11 handle feels like a new, third category--it's not really a scorpion handle/way better than any scorpion handle I've ever tried.)
• The kickstand is simple/limited but nice to have and easily missed when going back to a wheel without one.
• Obviously my time with it was insufficient to test the range. (Although we did ride the wheels around for like three hours, albeit often at more middling speeds/only pushing higher speeds sporadically, and it was still at 4 out of 5 bars at the end.) Nor was I inclined to push speeds above the mid 20s mph on a wheel that is not mine and which was completely new to me.

Some takeaways from the S18:

• The demo model was really beat to hell, with tons of damage and pieces coming off and frankly it looked like sh1t. (See pictures.) Obviously it's not fair to judge a wheel which has been so abused, but it does indicate a potential paradox. Sure out of the box the wheel looks absolutely stunning, but then what?--you either ride it off-road and reap the suspension's strengths in that regard while sacrificing its aesthetics (as it might not hold up to the abuse)?--or you pamper it on the streets to maintain the pretty aesthetics while sacrificing its primary off-roading strength/usage case, and are otherwise saddled with all the negative tradeoffs (battery, etc) which were made to provide that primary strength which you don't take full advantage of? It's like a wheel caught between worlds and potentially not fully suited for either. (Also I've seen wheels which were abused just as much or more but which held up way better, including the 16X and others.)
  • In the end this might come down to what "off-roading" means to you, particularly how much risk you take/how often you drop your wheel. If you do extreme off-roading where you're going to crash/drop the wheel a ton, you probably want something with stronger casing. But if you ride off-road in places/in a way where you're unlikely to crash/drop it a bunch, then you could get the benefits of the S18's suspension without having as much danger to its casing.
• The open case was absolutely full of dirt in a million little crevices around a bunch of different little parts and cable channels and things. (Again see pictures.) Even if not necessarily worried about this being any kind of functional problem (it probably isn't?), it just seems like it would be impossible to keep clean/looking decent--as if hosing it off might be regularly necessary, not just from extreme off-roading, but even just from dust from everyday street riding?
• I repeat the same point I made about the V11 in regards to suspension and dealing with bumps/potholes or going off curbs. Suspension is awesome.
• Ergonomically the Kuji pads around the ankle were quite hard and dug into and actually bruised the hell out of my ankle (technically above the ankle bone/joint, really the lower leg) no matter how I tried repositioning my foot to try to alleviate (augmented by the relatively narrow pedals/inability to move foot too far outward). It also had obvious wear-through/deterioration of the hard padding on the exact contact point where it was causing me pain. On the other hand my g/f didn't have this problem, and the final production version is supposedly softer, so results may vary? And this may be highly subjective to your physical dimensions and also potentially riding style (duck-footed versus parallel or pigeon-toed, etc).
• The Kuji pads did make it way easier to squeeze the wheel with your ankle underneath the bump and lift the wheel to jump up curbs and things, as Chooch demonstrated repeatedly, which is difficult if not impossible on the V11. If you care significantly about jumping-by-lifting the S11 is really your only choice between these two.
• The S18 headlight, while not as good as the V11, is still quite good compared to previous-generation wheels. The taillight is very slim/tiny and I would fear may be insufficient for visibility (likely why at least the demo unit also had reflective tape lower on the back). Glad to see the broader set of manufacturers stepping up their headlight game though.
• The trolley handle is great as a trolley handle (I wasn't sure with it being rotated 90 degrees from most handles but actually this didn't hurt it at all) but its double-duty as the only carrying handle which you have to finagle to lock into the lifting handle position is abysmal. I can't overstate how big of a deal this is in usability, it's really annoying. (The demo unit also did not have a working cutoff switch but which I can ignore/assume should be fixed in final.)

In the end I'm buying a V11 and selling both my Nikola and my V10F--it combines the strengths I personally want/need/love/use from both, and having the V11 I don't anticipate I would ever ride either the Nikola or V10F. (Conversely I kept the V10F after buying the Nikola because there were things I liked and disliked about both and I would use each of them for different scenarios. But I will certainly still keep around a V8[F] or mten3 or equivalent because I still love having and regularly use a compact & light wheel for some things.)

This is just off the top of my head and I'm sure I'm missing stuff. Feel free to AMA. And *many thanks* to Jimmy Chang & Chooch and be sure to check out their videos on these wheels as they come out. :-)

Edited July 17, 2020 by AtlasP