Llorx Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 11 hours ago, Unventor said: @buell47 made a great post long back with different mods I think enlarging the hole to allow the to be more position towards the axel than the tire was modification 2 on a long list of instructions and pictures. When I had my KS16X in for service I got my CX tire swapped to a CY tire and then it is not an issue unless I go past 40kmh the it starts to wobble. I need to reseat my tire as it looks like it is autocarving 😏. But since I limit yiltback to 40kmh I have not been bothered. And now with my V11.... Nahe. Found it. Thank you! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinkererboi Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 SG$ 22.25 | 60/100-12"2.75-12 Inch Tyre Tire + Inner Tube For Mini Pit Pro Trail Dirt Bikehttps://a.aliexpress.com/_mLBaMdV Possible compatible knobby tyre spotted! Looks 95% similar to mine so expect more or less the same characteristics. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendan "nog3" Halliday Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 3 hours ago, Tinkererboi said: SG$ 22.25 | 60/100-12"2.75-12 Inch Tyre Tire + Inner Tube For Mini Pit Pro Trail Dirt Bikehttps://a.aliexpress.com/_mLBaMdV Possible compatible knobby tyre spotted! Looks 95% similar to mine so expect more or less the same characteristics. Ooh, this might resolve my loss of traction on muddy/mossy footpath issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinkererboi Posted August 31, 2020 Share Posted August 31, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Brendan "nog3" Halliday said: Ooh, this might resolve my loss of traction on muddy/mossy footpath issue. Muddy footpaths - Sure did it for me! Not sure about moss though. If the mud isn't too thick, it seems like the H-666 would be enough for those while not having knobby-specific drawbacks. This disclaimer may be little overdue, but do note that installing these pit bike tyres are a completely different animal compared to e-bike tyres like the chaoyang/cst ones. Prepare to learn how to mount a tyre from scratch all over if you are willing to take the challenge. Edited August 31, 2020 by Tinkererboi 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanguard Posted September 5, 2020 Share Posted September 5, 2020 Today, finally, I received my KS16X. - Firmware: 2,02 - Batch/production date in Serial number: (...)200701(...) I guess it means "01 July 2020" - Tire: CST C-1488 Please help me: max speed is currently "28 km/h". I try to modificate it in App, but it does not memorize the changment: always 28 km/h. I can't set anything different than 28 km/h. Why? (sorry for my bad english) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pengloong Posted September 5, 2020 Share Posted September 5, 2020 @vanguard, ride the first 10 miles or roughly 17 kilometres, then you can change on your App. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanguard Posted September 15, 2020 Share Posted September 15, 2020 @Pengloong Thank-you, I found that I have to ride before the wheel let me go faster, but I think that it is more than 17 km. However currently I am at abt 30 km done, this evening I try to change the speed limit. But this is NOT a problem... this is my first wheel and I am still learning... CST C-1488 at about 26 PSI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pengloong Posted September 16, 2020 Share Posted September 16, 2020 @vanguard, have you seen this regarding speed unlocking? It was posted by Jack@Kingsong in another thread. It should answer your original query. https://imgur.com/a/XFNp2Xa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post EUC Custom Power-Pads Posted November 15, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted November 15, 2020 (edited) I changed my 16X tire right now from the beloved CST-C1488 to CST-C1773. Actually I had no desire at all, but since I was curious, I did it after all.... and it was worth the work! Comparision C1488 - vs - C-1773: outer diameter @22psi: 445 mm / 445 mm (17,52 in) width @22psi: 73,1 mm (2,88 in) / 69,6 mm (2,74 in) weight: 1200 g (2,65 lb) / 1424 g (3,14 lb) tread depth: 2,5 mm / 4,0 mm I just did a small test ride with the same tire pressure (22 psi) and I am amazed. My beloved C1488 is a pile of shit compared to the C-1773, at least in terms of riding characteristics. Much more directional stability, less wobbly, no noticeable increased gyro effect and just as agile. Normally changing to another tire always takes some getting used to and since I hardly ever ride the 16X anymore, I needed at least 10 km every time to get used to it. With the C-1773 I started riding immediately without any problems. Edited November 20, 2020 by buell47 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendan "nog3" Halliday Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 On 11/16/2020 at 2:24 AM, buell47 said: I changed my 16X tire right now from the beloved CST-C1488 to CST-C1773. I've just picked up a CST-C1773 to replace my worn CST-C1488 (apparently I carve too hard on the right) and am looking forward to seeing if it's the same for me. Thanks for the suggestion 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Brendan "nog3" Halliday Posted December 6, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted December 6, 2020 Well, it's on. Took it for a quick spin around the block and the characteristics are certainly interesting. I was very used to the lesser directional stability of the 1488 but was able to ride it immediately as well. Will see how it goes on the daily 16km commute for the week. Though to be fair, my 1488 did look a little worse for wear on one side. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tokumeino Posted December 30, 2020 Share Posted December 30, 2020 (edited) I have received my brand new KS16X. It was assembled on November, the 7th so I guess that it is the latest batch. It appears that it comes with a new tire, named J-6188 (no brand). Do you know about this one ? The issue is : with most my weight on one foot, the tire touches the shell and makes noise when turning (30, 35 and 45 PSI... no change). Do you think that the issue will just fade away as the tire gets more km ? Do the praised H666 tires touch the shell as well ? Edited December 30, 2020 by Tokumeino 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragonFZ Posted December 30, 2020 Share Posted December 30, 2020 8 minutes ago, Tokumeino said: The issue is : with most my weight on one foot, the tire touches the shell and makes noise when turning (30, 35 and 45 PSI... no change). I had this issue before. The solution is the Pedal Hangers. The Motor Axle is connected to the Pedal Hanger. The Pedal Hanger is connected to the Shell. The Shell is not aligned. You cannot tighten one side and then tighten the other. You need to loosen the shell while standing up (not laying down flat) and tighten both sides evenly. Post if this works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted December 30, 2020 Share Posted December 30, 2020 17 minutes ago, Tokumeino said: Do the praised H666 tires touch the shell as well ? On mine, the H666 doesn't touch while turning but does touch ever so lightly when one legged on my right foot. Left foot is fine. When I have to mess with the tire I'll be sure to try the alignment trick. Too bad they've moved away from the 666, but it looks like you get more knobbies! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 6 hours ago, Tokumeino said: I have received my brand new KS16X. It was assembled on November, the 7th so I guess that it is the latest batch. It appears that it comes with a new tire, named J-6188 (no brand). Do you know about this one ? Please share a photo on the tread of the tire! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unventor Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 That J-6188 tread looks a bit similar to the 1st batch CX tire if I am not mistaken. @Tokumeino if I understand you right you mentioned it have some gyro feel to it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 4 hours ago, null said: Several pics here What an interesting shape and pattern! It’s peculiar how the side photos show only a shallow tread section, yet the front photo shows a rather promisingly aggressive and deep pattern. Makes me think that the shape of the carcass may indeed be somewhat unconventional. Very hard to estimate the amount of “gyro effect” or turning behavior in general. But at least the grip should be very nice, and even fairly reasonable for off-road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tokumeino Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 (edited) On 12/31/2020 at 1:54 AM, Unventor said: That J-6188 tread looks a bit similar to the 1st batch CX tire if I am not mistaken. @Tokumeino if I understand you right you mentioned it have some gyro feel to it? I'm new to the KS16X, my reference being a KS16S. So I can't really tell about the gyro effect (too many differences at the same time, that I cannot sort). I can tell that when turning, it appears that I tend to accompany the wheel with the exterior shin bone. But it is very natural and I've never felt unsafe. I still didn't ride faster than 40kmh, though, and I didn't turn at higher speed (not skilled enough yet). Edited January 1, 2021 by Tokumeino 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tokumeino Posted January 1, 2021 Share Posted January 1, 2021 (edited) @DragonFZ Thanks for the trick. I'll do the centering thing once I get adequate foam to weather-seal the wheel at the same time. However, I'm not very optimistic about that since the shell seems quite well centered to my eyes, and both sides touch equally. BTW, I'll change for good quality hex screws (pedals as well as external shell) : what screw dimensions should I grab ? It appears that I didn't use the adequate vocabulary (sorry, I'm no native) : the tire actually doesn't touch the shell while turning but rather while spinning when I'm fully or almost on one foot (skate starting for instance). When riding and turning, no issue at all. Note that I've lowered the pressure a bit (to 30PSI) and after a few more km, I have the impression that things already improve a bit. But it could be me, unconsciously adapting to the situation. Edited January 1, 2021 by Tokumeino Question about screw dimensions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tokumeino Posted January 1, 2021 Share Posted January 1, 2021 (edited) About this new stock J-6188 tire, please let me post a couple of better pics of the profile. Edited January 1, 2021 by Tokumeino 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tokumeino Posted January 2, 2021 Share Posted January 2, 2021 (edited) I've sanded the protuding sides. The tire profile being rather round, I don't think that I'll ride or these extreme sides very much, anyway. I've however kept the side studs protuding a bit so the tire can grab a small sidewalk without slipping. At 30PSI (I weight 90kg dressed up), the wheel is very comfortable yet maneuverable, and no wobbling as far as I can tell. Plus, the tire doesn't touch any more in normal use (sharp turns, quick "skate" start, feet position adjustment) so to me, the issue is solved. I can however still make the shell touch the tire if I deliberately want to do so, but it doesn't matter to me. Plus, with the tire softening a bit after a bit more usage, I'm quite confident that I'll be able to ride one feet (pushing hard on the shell) without any noise. Note : the sanding process did last much less than 5min : https://youtu.be/5XM8kQEyIYI Edited January 2, 2021 by Tokumeino 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solosmooth Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 Where can I get replacement tire screws for my 16x? 2 screws on my 16x are worn out. I know their machine screws but dont know the exact size. Can I replace it with hex screws with similar size? Thanks!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..... Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, Solosmooth said: Where can I get replacement tire screws for my 16x? 2 screws on my 16x are worn out. I know their machine screws but dont know the exact size. Can I replace it with hex screws with similar size? Thanks!! I went online and ordered a stainless hex screw kit for my Sherman. These wheels all use common metric screws, but there is a few lengths and sizes. You'd have to be more specific. Fwiw, I'd get a large kit and some antisieze compound and just start swapping(just say NO to loc-tite). They look nice and even cheap hex seem to work better than phillips. You cant really buy anything shittier than stock, so no worries. Just pay attention to the recess and head type. Fwiw, there is validity in accellerated corrossion when mixing metals. Wheels have brass type inserts and I dont know (nor care to investigate) what specific coatings are acceptable or not. I just use miniscule amounts of silver anti-sieze, right or not. I dont know the size of any self tapping screws. I have a bag of old computer screws and dig thru it. Cheap crap too tho. Edited January 7, 2021 by ShanesPlanet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..... Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 (edited) 5 minutes ago, null said: Speaking of screws, consider torx, they have the benefits of hex while taking more torque. Very true, IF they are of any quality. Hangers and load bearing need be replaced with quality Torx where applicable. I went with standard hex for body screws, as its a more common tool people have and I've had issue with cheap shit torx screws and tools in the past. I can't imagine most of the small screws should be tightened much. I err on the side of looser and anit-seize. Nothing has fallen off yet. Pushing the plastic and not relying on the screw to pull parts together is key. Warming the wheel prior to also helps. Loctite gives me nightmares, either way. Edited January 7, 2021 by ShanesPlanet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..... Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 1 minute ago, null said: Taking torque being interchangeable with stripping less. As for quality: with the same material quality torx will be stronger than hex due to the angle the tool pushes on. Availability is an argument for hex yes. I agree entirely. The little niggle is when you get cheap as shit smaller torx screws. The lack of manufacturing tolerances, makes for total shit show in head precision on torx vs hex. Same with torx bits. It must be much harder to make torx. Hell, for body screws, I'd go with whichever ones you think LOOKS cooler. Buy a bottle of nail pollish and custom color the dumb things too 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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