THE VIDEO THREAD!

[LanghamP]

33 minutes ago, eddiemoy said:

this is how @kingsong69 did both his KS18 and KS18S.  it is a tested solution and tested through crashes.  The case on the 18S is thick.  I don't see it breaking due to any crash. 

I cant imagine how you can bolt it to the pedal.  maybe my imagination is limited.  But if you look at the video and how the trolly sits on the two side walls, this is a great solution.  The side walls brace and support the trolley handle.  I just googled the pedal trolley mod on the 14c. I don't think it is a good solution for this trolley handle.  it isn't even possible and if it is, would not be sturdy because the rod will need to be long.  

Here's a similar EUC. 

 

[eddiemoy]

Just now, LanghamP said:

Here's a similar EUC. 

 

doesnt work for te ks18s.  

[Marty Backe]

1 hour ago, eddiemoy said:

this is how @kingsong69 did both his KS18 and KS18S.  it is a tested solution and tested through crashes.  The case on the 18S is thick.  I don't see it breaking due to any crash. 

I cant imagine how you can bolt it to the pedal.  maybe my imagination is limited.  But if you look at the video and how the trolly sits on the two side walls, this is a great solution.  The side walls brace and support the trolley handle.  I just googled the pedal trolley mod on the 14c. I don't think it is a good solution for this trolley handle.  it isn't even possible and if it is, would not be sturdy because the rod will need to be long.  

Eddie,

Your solution is great. I drilled holes in my ACM to mount a trolley too. I was just curious if you had considered the other option.

If you look at your pedal mounts, there is a slot that would allow you to bolt a piece of threaded rod through the pedal support. The threaded rod then extends to the back of the wheel where the bottom of the trolley can be bolted (for your trolley you would have to drill another hole). In this way the trolley is attached to the pedal brackets and is very strong, and of course no holes need be drilled in the case.

Many of KingSong wheels support this. I'm about to do the same on my Mten3, and the Monster too. Unfortunately the pedal brackets aren't exposed on the MSuper or ACM to allow for this.

[US69]

1 hour ago, LanghamP said:

I didn't like seeing him use the case for the trolley mount either. I feel a crash is much more likely to crack the case instead of bend the trolley (which is what you want). I've got the KS14c with the threaded trolley through the pedals and in my opinion that's the optimal trolley setup. It doesn't mess up the internals of the wheel, it can sacrifice itself during crashes, it bolts onto one of the strongest parts of the wheel (well, maybe not with the paper thin axle of the KS14c), and it is easy to replace. 

Edit: damn, I think he could have put the trolley through the pedals. He might have had to minimally bend through lower legs, maybe not. 

Heh, but the MSuper is so ridiculously bad. 

Everyone who is thinking that the shell of the KS18 is going to brake, for sure hasnt seen or owned a KS18 :-)

On my old KS18 this trolley solution now is since long over a year, and i can assure that before the shell brakes, certainly the trolley would be destroyed or bent or the bolt would rip out, but out of the trolley rod, not out of the case :-)

There have been several falls/crashes i have been trough, the trolley rod was bend, the zip tie exploded away because it is not flexible, but never ever something happened to the shell.

The pedal mounting solution unfortunatly just dont work for the KS18, because the pedals are to far away from each other to put a trolley in between.

[Marty Backe]

26 minutes ago, KingSong69 said:

Everyone who is thinking that the shell of the KS18 is going to brake, for sure hasnt seen or owned a KS18 :-)

On my old KS18 this trolley solution now is since long over a year, and i can assure that before the shell brakes, certainly the trolley would be destroyed or bent or the bolt would rip out, but out of the trolley rod, not out of the case :-)

There have been several falls/crashes i have been trough, the trolley rod was bend, the zip tie exploded away because it is not flexible, but never ever something happened to the shell.

The pedal mounting solution unfortunatly just dont work for the KS18, because the pedals are to far away from each other to put a trolley in between.

The threaded rod can be bent or an adapter plate can be used. That's what I'll do with my Monster. I think I'd prefer to mount anything to my wheels non-destructively if possible. But I'm not opposed to drilling holes in the shell, I just don't think it's necessarily the most elegant solution.

[GoinPostal]

On 11/30/2017 at 9:22 AM, steve454 said:

Here is a how well a studded tire works on the slickest ice.

 

Where in the world did you find a studded EUC tire??

[GoinPostal]

8 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

It wasn't a very hot day (mid-70's), so the temperature never got much above 50 degrees Celsius 

Marty what is the hottest you have seen a still functioning wheel?

[Marty Backe]

1 hour ago, GoinPostal said:

Marty what is the hottest you have seen a still functioning wheel?

80 degrees Celsius on a KS14S. Gotway's will tilt-back at 79-degrees and I have ridden them in the low-70's. The newer KingSong's tilt-back at 81-degrees.

If it's a really hot day and I'm not climbing steep hills these wheels will often be running in the mid-60's. Only when the wheels climb into the 70's do I anticipate having to step off the wheel for a few minutes to let them cool down.

[steve454]

7 hours ago, GoinPostal said:

Where in the world did you find a studded EUC tire??

@EUC Extreme put the pins in himself.  

[GoinPostal]

On 12/4/2017 at 1:40 AM, Marty Backe said:

80 degrees Celsius on a KS14S. Gotway's will tilt-back at 79-degrees and I have ridden them in the low-70's. The newer KingSong's tilt-back at 81-degrees.

If it's a really hot day and I'm not climbing steep hills these wheels will often be running in the mid-60's. Only when the wheels climb into the 70's do I anticipate having to step off the wheel for a few minutes to let them cool down.

Wow! That’s way hotter than I figured safe. Good to know! 

[Smoother]

On 12/3/2017 at 4:07 PM, Tilmann said:

Ok, she mastered normal (manual? Or is it called "pedual") unicycles before. Guess, that helps.

You think??!!

[Smoother]

On 12/4/2017 at 4:03 AM, eddiemoy said:

Sorry, couldn't help myself comparing it to the Msuper.  When it sucks it sucks.  I wonder if this trolly handle would fit on the Gotway... hm.... 

2

I was curious about that HotWay jab too, because, essentially what you have built is the same as the HotWay.  Have you tried turning either/both wheels around and pulling them by the handle rather than pushing them?  After all, a tractor-trailer rig pulls the load it doesn't push it.  Pushing, is asking for the wheel to drift offline without constant correction.  Pulling will allow the wheel to naturally "castor" behind the center of effort, the handle.  I can't even imagine trying to push like that.

I have no problem with the way he mounted to the shell.  It's a natural position for that handle, and it would take one hell of a sheering load to pull those bolts through the plastic.  They would be subject to virtually no leverage load (left to right) as there is NO pivot point when the handle is fully retracted (where it would be in a crash).  So the only possible load would be a shear (front to back) and I'd defy anyone to affect any damage at all via those bolt hole, which are several inches from any edge.

Also, mounting to the pedals would require splaying the handle legs outwards, which would destroy their natural parallel design, which is necessary for smooth deployment and to not stress the joint with the handle itself.

No, he did it right, and he followed a tried and trusted design.

PS I can't remember if large washers were used inside the shell.  If not, I would add these to significantly spread the load of the bolt across the plastic shell.

Edited December 6, 2017 by Smoother

[Smoother]

On 12/4/2017 at 6:30 AM, Marty Backe said:

The threaded rod can be bent or an adapter plate can be used. That's what I'll do with my Monster. I think I'd prefer to mount anything to my wheels non-destructively if possible.

First,  I don't think this is a good idea on these bigger wheels where the pedals are far from the added handle.  Firstly, the rod has some length to it to reach where the handle legs are.  This length equals leverage.  The more leverage you have the more force that can be applied to the mounting point.  The mounting point is steel rod (replaceable, cheap) to Aluminum pedal (replaceable, expensive).  If forces are applied to this joint (crash, zip tie snaps, handle catches ground and pivots hand around base mounting threaded rod)  your pedal threads will strip, before your steel rod threads. Bye Bye Pedals (in as much as your mounting system is now ruined and your pedal shafts are now not secured from the rear, because the threads are gone)

Secondly, Bending these rods is tedious and hit or miss at best.  You need a good vice to hold it still while bending it, which most people don't have.  Then you need to protect the threads from damage while applying all this force to it, and they need to match each other, and once installed they need to always be in the exact position so the bend goes where it's supposed to go.  So to keep it from being loose you would need to tighten it hard against the pedal shaft so it didn't sag.  That's a whole lot of faffing about for an inferior and potentially costly (replacing damaged pedals)install. Two holes in the case, 2 bolts, two nuts, some big washers, sorted. 

Edited December 6, 2017 by Smoother

[eddiemoy]

3 hours ago, Smoother said:

I was curious about that HotWay jab too, because, essentially what you have built is the same as the HotWay.  Have you tried turning either/both wheels around and pulling them by the handle rather than pushing them?  Ater all, a tractor-trailer rig pulls the load it doesn't push it.  Pushing, is asking for the wheel to drift offline without constant correction.  Pulling will allow the wheel to naturally "castor" behind the center of effort, the handle.  I can't even imagine trying to push like that.

I have no problem with the way he mounted to the shell.  It's a natural position for that handle, and it would take one hell of a sheering load to pull those bolts through the plastic.  They would be subject to virtually no leverage load (left to right) as there is NO pivot point when the handle is fully retracted (where it would be in a crash).  So the only possible load would be a shear (front to back) and I'd defy anyone to affect any damage at all via those bolt hole, which are several inches from any edge.

Also, mounting to the pedals would require splaying the handle legs outwards, which would destroy their natural parallel design, which is necessary for smooth deployment and to not stress the joint with the handle itself.

No, he did it right, and he followed a tried and trusted design.

PS I can't remember if large washers were used inside the shell.  If not, I would add these to significantly spread the load of the bolt across the plastic shell.

the custom trolley handle on the KS18S is nothing like the one on the Msuper.  The msuper is too small and narrow, zero leverage.  The one on the KS18S now is very easy to use since it is so wide, doesn't suffer from the same useless feeling.  very easy to steer vs the Msuper is all over the place and you struggle with it.

[steve454]

Is this the pedal mounted trolley handle everyone is talking about?  

Edited December 6, 2017 by steve454

[LanghamP]

8 minutes ago, steve454 said:

Is this the pedal mounted trolley handle everyone is talking about?  

Yes. That looks exactly like my KS14. 

[steve454]

5 minutes ago, LanghamP said:

Yes. That looks exactly like my KS14. 

Looks like a good way to mount, might not work on KS18 with the tall case.

[Marty Backe]

4 hours ago, Smoother said:

First,  I don't think this is a good idea on these bigger wheels where the pedals are far from the added handle.  Firstly, the rod has some length to it to reach where the handle legs are.  This length equals leverage.  The more leverage you have the more force that can be applied to the mounting point.  The mounting point is steel rod (replaceable, cheap) to Aluminum pedal (replaceable, expensive).  If forces are applied to this joint (crash, zip tie snaps, handle catches ground and pivots hand around base mounting threaded rod)  your pedal threads will strip, before your steel rod threads. Bye Bye Pedals (in as much as your mounting system is now ruined and your pedal shafts are now not secured from the rear, because the threads are gone)

Secondly, Bending these rods is tedious and hit or miss at best.  You need a good vice to hold it still while bending it, which most people don't have.  Then you need to protect the threads from damage while applying all this force to it, and they need to match each other, and once installed they need to always be in the exact position so the bend goes where it's supposed to go.  So to keep it from being loose you would need to tighten it hard against the pedal shaft so it didn't sag.  That's a whole lot of faffing about for an inferior and potentially costly (replacing damaged pedals)install. Two holes in the case, 2 bolts, two nuts, some big washers, sorted. 

I understand the concern, but given the length of the 1/4-inch threaded rod (not totally rigid) and the strength of the pedal brackets, I have my doubts that the brackets would break during a wheel fall. Of course I can't prove my assertion.

I suggested either bending the rod or using an offset adapter plate. Both techniques require tools and the appropriate knowledge. Given both, either approach can be done accurately with no damage to the parts. Since I don't have the necessary bending jigs I'm going to use an adapter plate.

When I do this on my Monster I'll video the process whether it's a success or failure. And maybe when I'm in the thick of it I'll decide that your approach is better 

[Smoother]

5 hours ago, eddiemoy said:

The msuper is too small and narrow, zero leverage.......the Msuper is all over the place and you struggle with it.

1

Yes, but have you tried turning the wheel around and pulling with the handle rather than pushing?  When pulling you should have much less need for leverage, and the "all over the place" feeling should go away too, because the wheel will naturally fall in line, like a castor on a shopping trolly.

Edited December 6, 2017 by Smoother

[meepmeepmayer]

Not my video. Chooch again, he puts up stuff quite regularly.

 

Edited December 6, 2017 by meepmeepmayer

[meepmeepmayer]

Not my video. Car guy has another EUC video (or two, not sure if I posted them all). Check out the channel/EUC playlist.

@Jason McNeil You really need to send that guy the bigger stuff. I understand that14D/S = mass market, but don't let him (and his viewers) miss the bigger ones. 16S, maybe even an 18S, all of them.

 

[mezzanine]

5 hours ago, steve454 said:

Looks like a good way to mount, might not work on KS18 with the tall case.

 

Won't work. 

[Marty Backe]

12 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said:

Not my video. Car guy has another EUC video (or two, not sure if I posted them all). Check out the channel/EUC playlist.

@Jason McNeil You really need to send that guy the bigger stuff. I understand that14D/S = mass market, but don't let him (and his viewers) miss the bigger ones. 16S, maybe even an 18S, all of them.

 

It's only money, right 

[Marty Backe]

Here's a short video that demonstrates the ease of which you can mount and dismount from the Gotway Mten3. Just because it's a twitchy little beast of a wheel does not been that it can't be fully controlled.

Always practice some of the basics every time you ride.

 

[kour]

part of turn-practicing regimen on acm