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LanghamP

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LanghamP last won the day on November 21 2017

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About LanghamP

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  1. LanghamP

    Things the manufacturers don't tell you.

    I used to do that. I do not do that anymore, because our safety (theirs and mine) is more important than the pedestrian being momentarily surprised. I have the utmost respect for pedestrians, and that means they can behave however they want so long as it meets the constraints of not hitting you. If you call out to a pedestrian then they jump around, or not jump around, in whatever direction they want to. If they jump into your path then there's some time "renegotiating" who owns what part of the path. Don't be this guy. Pass the pedestrian in a way that makes it extraordinarily difficult for them to jump into you. In practice, that means two things. --Passing the pedestrian before he knows you are there, thereby mitigating his semi-erratic movement. And --Timing the passing so that his foot as you pass him is closest to you is on the ground. For example, if you are passing a pedestrian on his left and his left foot is on the ground, then he cannot easily jump to his left because he would either need to cross his feet or do a quick ball-change. While most of use riders complain about pedestrians being erratic and random when you surprise them from their rear, this isn't strictly true; pedestrians jump in predictable direction depending on which way they are already falling. If a pedestrian has their weight already on their left foot, they will jump to their right. If a pedestrian has their weight already on their right foot, they will jump to their left. If a pedestrian has their weight on both feet, then they can jump in any direction, but they will almost always turn left because most people in the US are used to doing a sight check over their left shoulder. Presumably our fellow Brits and new Zealanders would shoulder check over their right. Next time you have a group photo, make a loud noise directly behind them, and count who has their head turned left. I'd bet it'd be above 90%.
  2. I'm a big fan of the very heavy leather Joe Rocket jackets, which come in a variety of protection ranging from no protection (I have that jacket) to hard and soft armor nearly everywhere. They are between $200 and $400. https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/joe-rocket-old-school-leather-jacket (I have the one in red) There's a lot of overlap between armor for impact and armor for abrasion, because all armor designed for impacts give you some abrasion resistance, and all armor for abrasion (read leather) gives you some impact resistance. In my opinion any smooth leather jacket, unbuttoned and unzipped, is just fine for the majority of EUC crashes. The energy needed to dissipate is easily shedded by any leather jacket, although those same energy levels will easily shred your skin. I think all three textile jackets for the road are also just fine for EUC crashes, and are probably far better for EUCs since they have armor and cooling.
  3. LanghamP

    In the news...

    It's apparent that eScooters are eating bicycles, as both Offo and limebike both pulled out of St Louis. Or, rather, their bikes were stolen or vandalized. Bicycles don't last long in St Louis, as 100% of my fellow members in the local bike club have all had their bikes stolen at one time or another. Let me reiterate 100%. I'm my case I got two bicycles and one motorcycle stolen. All locked up...granted I had insurance but still... https://www.riverfronttimes.com/newsblog/2019/02/04/bike-sharing-is-dead-in-st-louis-for-now?media=AMP+HTML
  4. I'm with you in this one, as I prefer an entirely docile manner of riding after each big crash. As anyone who rides wheels for even the shortest time, you discover, quickly and painfully, that losing traction means losing front to back balance. While we all love to do peelouts on gravel, we get extremely high crash rates doing so. Losing traction in any other vehicle isn't the automatic crash it is on an EUC. Therefore jackrabbit starts and stops are never really safe on an EUC, as a loss of traction quickly starts a cycle whereby the wheel keeps tilting more while spinning the wheel ever higher. Basically the opposite of ABS. When an EUC loses traction it responds by giving less traction! In my opinion, a big wheel with a wide tire is safer because it doesn't lose traction in the first place.
  5. LanghamP

    Quiet Wheels

    If you're under 50 then the accumulated hearing lost isn't quite up there yet. Unsurprisingly, all the musicians I've showed my wheel to cannot tell if the wheel is turned on. I would guess drummers are particularly bad.
  6. LanghamP

    Things the manufacturers don't tell you.

    Both the Kingsong and the Ninebot manual essentially have the same warnings, but the Ninebot has pretty pictures. To be blunt, there isn't a single warning I haven't broken except the one that says don't be above 50 years old, but all those warnings are entirely valid and would keep you out of trouble. The dumbest warning ignored was the doorframe warning. It would be straightforward not to hit your head on the doorframe, but if you're on an EUC there's a tendency to look at the ground rather than up.
  7. LanghamP

    Quiet Wheels

    I'm going to guess that most of us under 35 will say our wheels are loud, while most of us over 50 will say our wheels make very little noise. This is because most of us lose our ability to hear high pitched noises as we age. Presbicusis is the loss of hearing as you age. Noise-induced hearing loss is loud noises gradually destroying your hearing. Research suggests most presbicusis is, in fact, NIHL, because most people in low industrial societies keep their hearing while most people in high industrial societies lose much or most of their hearing. The answer is, all wheels are loud, because little kids can hear your froma block away. The answer is, all wheels are quiet, because you can 100% sneak up on old people with a Rockwheel 16.
  8. Here's a minor bicycle and road topic...funding...which shows both the difficulty in getting funding for "not a car" and losing that funding if you don't enough approved grants. https://usa.streetsblog.org/2019/02/21/states-may-forfeit-1-billion-in-biking-and-walking-funding/ The way Federal money earmarked for grants is typically people write grants, and if no one gets approved then you just roll the money into the next year until you do get approved. The money set aside keeps increasing each year; this is to encourage people to write bigger and better grants. However, if you (the Feds) don't care about the grant, then typically you'll reject the grants coming in then send the earmarks back into general revenue. Since no money was distributed that year then next year nothing gets earmarked for that subject. This shows the difficulty of using Federal money to improve bicycle and pedestrians projects even when that money is set aside. In a way, this is a "soft" pushback against bicycles, eScooters, and pedestrians by simply doing nothing; not only do present but future projects are killed even before starting.
  9. I enjoy gusts, with strong winds as you would get just before a storm, above all else. I just love zig zags into the wind where your footpads almost touch the ground. However, with an umbrella, in my case a stadium umbrella as that is the only one large enough to provide coverage, one must go quite slow, and there must be little wind. You must hold the umbrella very high up on the shaft, as placing your hand normally forces you to tilt the umbrella into the wind and blocks your view.
  10. Try riding your EUC at lower speeds with an umbrella in rainy and windy conditions. Remember and savor that feeling that helplessness. Then do the same thing again in a few months. Then savor that feeling of complete and utter badass mastery of your wheel. Especially if you can change tunes with your other hand.
  11. LanghamP

    What speed do you max at on your average EUC ride?

    Like average speed or max speed touched for a few seconds? Pretty much 26 mph every time I'm on my Gotway MSuper, regardless of helmet use, but the average is much lower, like 18-24 mph. My KS16S max is almost always 32 kmh but the average is between 6 to 18 mph, and usually on the lower end under 10 mph average. Pretty much all my wheels average 12 mph or less, often much less like 6 mph, but the MSuper like all the big 18 inchers is a class of its own, more akin to motorized 50cc scooters than to legs 2.0.
  12. Motorcycle visors must meet VESC 8 standards in order to be certified DOT (which all Snell helmets meet). The VESC 8 standard states the visor must not chip, shatter, or otherwise allow a penetrating object through the visor, and that the visor must have no sharp edges. Would you prefer to have a visor that meets VESC 8 or would you prefer to have nothing between you and the penetrating object? What would most reasonable people prefer? Heavier helmets, within reason, aren't associated with an increase of whiplash. “Motorcycle Helmets Reduce Spine Injuries after Collisions; Helmet Weight as Risk to Neck Called a ‘Myth’.” Johns Hopkins Medicine. The Johns Hopkins University, 8 Feb 2011. Web. 31 Aug 2013. <http://www.hopkinsmedicine.org/news/media/releases/motorcycle_helmets_reduce_ spine_injuries_after_collisions_helmet_weight_as_risk_to_neck_called_a_myth>.
  13. Bicycle helmets give up some protection in order to be light, and there is no eye protection at all. You'd need to not wear glasses and have soft goggles. All that for helmets that are more than double an HJC or clone helmet. In addition, the Snell standard specifies a dwell at peak G time in addition to a peak G. The MIPS is stupid, just more marketing crap, because a polycarbonate/carbon fiber shell already comes with its built-in "don't get caught on the ground" protection. Snell and CE motorcycle helmets can be built to far higher safety standards because they don't have weight limits. Downhill MB are half the weight because they have half the thickness of styrofoam. If bicycle helmet manufacturers were serious about providing motorcycle-level protection then they'd use motorcycle safety standards. They don't because they can't. In other words, bicycle helmet manufacturers would simply submit their helmets to the Snell/CE motorcycle standards instead of their own self-administered made-up standard. STOP comparing bicycle helmets with motorcycle helmets as if they could possibly provide the same levels of protection. One is intended for low weight, low speeds, for impacting soft surfaces while the other is intended for high speeds, an indifference to weight, against asphalt and concrete. Do people seriously believe MIPS on soft ground at low speed is better than Snell at high speed on asphalt? Downhill bicycle helmet. --No eye protection. --Full of little holes that reduce styrofoam and can be caught on the ground. --Thin chin bar. --Thin styrofoam everywhere. --Lighter (but you're not pedaling on an EUC). --Expensive. Sportbike helmet --Lockable eye visor providing protection regardless of eyeglasses. --Huge chin bar. --Thick heavy styrofoam with few holes. --Commonly $120 to much less. --Doubles as protection against cold. It is impossible to argue against the greater protection afforded by a sportbike helmet over a downhill helmet. The only advantage the downhill helmet is that it doesn't look as bad as the sportbike helmet, and that is a legitimate reason to wear it over a sportbike helmet. Looks are important, especially for something as sociable as an EUC.
  14. If you decide to go the full face helmet route, then you need one with an eps-lined chin bar. If you choose one of those silly full face helmets with no eps like the Bell 3r, then you're just buying a helmet that looks like it would protect you when it does not. I'd put any downhill bicycle helmet into this category. Get a motorcycle helmet with a Snell rating of any sort instead. You need the smaller eyeport to protect your brow, the chin bar to protect your jaw and nose, and the shield to protect your eyes from debris. If you're doing tricks or practicing slow speed then an open helmet is fine and practically mandatory, as it's hard to catch yourself going backwards. Otherwise, you should either wear a Snell motorcycle helmet or no helmet at all, because if you're riding with an open helmet then you think you have some head protection when you actually have little to no protection. Your typical EUC crash begins with a faceplant and ends with a busted face, upon which the rider expresses surprise that his open faced helmet provided no protection. This is akin to someone asking you why he never has to scrape bugs off the rear windshield of his car; the answer is infuriatingly obvious. Now if you don't wear a helmet then you'll ride with utmost care at a reasonable speed, with arms in ready position; in other words, not like how you'd ride with an open helmet. Since an open helmet provides no more protection than no helmet it all, it follows that it is the type of riding responsible for the severity of the injury. Either: --Go fast wearing motorcycle levels of protection, or, --Go slow wearing no protection, at not much higher than walking pace, in a body position expecting a cut out for any or no reason. "I was wearing my fancy wrist guards with my piece of shit Thousand Bike Helmet on my MSuper when suddenly..." Don't be this guy. This is the reason that most moderate speed wrecks result in severe injury compared to low or high; the rider was wearing inappropriate (read, open helmet) equipment for his speed.
  15. I did teach my girlfriend to ride, who in turn taught her supervisor at work to ride, who in turn bought a mini pro for his wife (who never learned after a year). If, God forbid, you do have a wife, then it is no great leap to teach her to ride, as learning these EUCs with some help is not very difficult.
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