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My Sherman Trials, Tribulations, and Triumphs


Marty Backe

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4 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

What do any of you hardware guys think?

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First things first, for such a high current machine, they shouldn't be using this at all imo

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4 hours ago, Mr. Thompson said:

First I would like...

You're completely right. But this has been like this forever with EUCs, and I don't think it will ever change

You would think "Look at the maximum current/voltage/whatever this thing could produce, and let's use components that can take more" would be a no-brainer. But apparently it is not.

I don't think they (all of them!) are cheap, they simply don't understand (on some level) that things should be done differently. Right now we have "Usually it just overheats and stops the rider before anything actually fails" level of design, and I don't think the Chinese manufacturers see this as anything but a successful design.

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4 hours ago, yuweng said:
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50118468222_a2f2b0f00b_k.thumb.jpg.219e09136b50bbca47c39c59dea980ef.jpg

 

First things first, for such a high current machine, they shouldn't be using this at all imo

Those are the connectors that go to the charge ports. Current is much lower here.

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3 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said:

Definitely. It's a Gotway clone design that breaks down as they pump more power/current through it than ever before.

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Could it be that capacitor suddenly discharged and burned that hole into the board?

Is there a timeline of what failed first? The wheel cut-off, and then you could hear the popcorn crackling which were the mosfets. So what failed in which order?

It all failed rather suddenly. I really couldn't say what happened first.

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5 minutes ago, Marty Backe said:

They need to be shipping wheels now. There's no time for real changes.

I'd obviously prefer that a wheel overheat and safely stop me from riding (all wheels historically do this) instead of self-destructing. But on the other hand, the community has traditionally hated wheels that would overheat easily and prevent you have having fun (like climbing hills).

The reason my test hill is called "Overheat Hill" is that mostly it would detect which wheels had poor heat dissipation which would prevent a wheel from making it to the top. Now the Sherman will join the club of wheels that overheat easily. 

What sort of temp should I be keeping an eye out for?

 

In the U.K. so it’s not too hot here but she runs quite hot at a standstill.

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36 minutes ago, HippoPig said:

What sort of temp should I be keeping an eye out for?

 

In the U.K. so it’s not too hot here but she runs quite hot at a standstill.

I have no idea what their set point will be. The temperature is referring to the the control board temperature. Traditionally this has been 79-degrees but I suspect it's going to be much lower with the Sherman.

 

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5 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said:

 

Could it be that capacitor suddenly discharged and burned that hole into the board?

 

After further looking at the more recent videos capacitor actually did not get exploded, it got soldered itself out due to PCB board going in smokes due to MOSFET overheating due to poor heat transfer through the silicone pad. IMHO.

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14 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

Failure Postmortem

All the wiring external to the control board looks great and I see no evidence of heat stress :thumbup:

 

Allways so positive 😁 

No heat stress except your cable ties melted from the temp of the motor cables, a DIY solution that might have prevented THAT.

Could it have been a case of solder melting, making contact with the aluminium hest sink causing the short and vaporizing the board at that point, i Saw a peep hole in the board at one spot where the capacitor was soldered dowm 🙈 (but other capacitor had the mosfet imsusltion between its solder points and the heat sink)

Maybe they should move from regular solder to silver "solder" (not sure of the word in English, the kind that need blue flame to melt) to prevent meltdowns 🥰 or at least add a insulating layer between heat sink and solder side of control board.

Anyway, if the solder melted, it was way to hot for the config.

Edited by Boogieman
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2 hours ago, Boogieman said:

Could it have been a case of solder melting, making contact with the aluminium hest sink causing the short and vaporizing the board at that point, i Saw a peep hole in the board at one spot where the capacitor was soldered dowm 🙈 (but other capacitor had the mosfet imsusltion between its solder points and the heat sink)

That makes a lot of sense, looking at that re-fried, charcoal-grilled board. But why did some MOSFET connection points burn and others didn't? 

2 hours ago, Boogieman said:

Anyway, if the solder melted, it was way to hot for the config.

That's what all of the conclusions seem to boil down with, one way or another: too much current/heat for that hardware. Until a definitive explanation diagnosis is made, I'm inclined to believe that the weak points that aren't up to the task are the soldering points, motor cable, PCB wiring, MOSFET connectors, insulation (thin silicone pad), board...maybe it's easier just to call it the hardware :facepalm: :efee612b4b:

If I owned this wheel I definitely wouldn't push it on any steep hills. But I can't help but wonder...even if one only uses it for street riding...high current spikes from aggressive riding and acceleration, over time, could easily cause premature degradation (and possibly failure?). Which wheels that have failed at overheat hill have had heat-related hardware issues further down the road for users who weren't taxing the wheel as much (all at once)?

Do you guys reckon the Sherman will fare well over time if high load is kept to a "reasonable" level? The question being, what is that reasonable level for the Sherman?

@Marty Backe you're going to have to expand the repertoire and find a close-to-overheat hill, a halfway-to-overheat hill and a-touch-of-overheat hill so wheel stress tolerance can be more accurately classified :roflmao:

Edited by travsformation
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11 minutes ago, travsformation said:

That makes a lot of sense, looking at that re-fried, charcoal-grilled board. But why did some MOSFET connection points burn and others didn't? 

That's what all of the conclusions seem to boil down with, one way or another: too much current/heat for that hardware. Until a definitive explanation diagnosis is made, I'm inclined to believe that the weak points that aren't up to the task are the soldering points, motor cable, PCB wiring, MOSFET connectors, insulation (thin silicone pad), board...maybe it's easier just to call it the hardware :facepalm: :efee612b4b:

If I owned this wheel I definitely wouldn't push it on any steep hills. But I can't help but wonder...even if one only uses it for street riding...high current spikes from aggressive riding and acceleration, over time, could easily cause premature degradation (and possibly failure?). Which wheels that have failed at overheat hill have had heat-related hardware issues further down the road for users who weren't taxing the wheel as much (all at once)?

Do you guys reckon the Sherman will fare well over time if high load is kept to a "reasonable" level? The question being, what is that reasonable level for the Sherman?

@Marty Backe you're going to have to expand the repertoire and find a close-to-overheat hill, a halfway-to-overheat hill and a-touch-of-overheat hill so wheel stress tolerance can be more accurately classified :roflmao:

I now know what the motor sounds like under real stress. If it still sounds like then when tackling tough hills, I'm going to stop.

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On 7/9/2020 at 5:36 PM, meepmeepmayer said:

One of the funniest EUC videos I have seen. You lifting the Sherman into the truck the first time with the unexpected awkward body bend was hilarious:laughbounce2:

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Looks like they could easily fix this by extending/modifying the metal tubing along the top of the wheel to offer a grab handle.

Apparently nothing a cherry picker won't resolve 8-)

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Sooo I have no plans on riding any ridiculously steep hills. 

 

But if the solder points are the points of failure it really reminds me of the whole Xbox 360 debacle. For those that don't know or remember they would get the dreaded red ring of death board failures--but they wouldn't happen or be apparent right away. Some would last a few days some would last a few years. The cause of this was due to the solder points on the board heating up and cooling down over 1000s of cycles to the point where eventually they would fail. 

 

This is what I'm worried about. It working fine for 1000s of miles until one day riding at 40mph and it dies due to the solder points slowly weakening from heating up and cooling down over time. 

 

Ughh I want this wheel so bad but I can't help but think we might have a similar situation on our hands. What do you guys think? 

Edited by MrRobot
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22 hours ago, Marty Backe said:

Failure Postmortem

Today I disassembled the Sherman so that I could remove the control board and take a closer look at the damage.

Sadly, total disassembly is required to pull the control board. I think Veteran assumed that they would have no control board failures. Considering how easy it is to do all other work on the Sherman, the work required to replace the control board is disappointing.

All the MOSFET's are destroyed, but it looks like the massive amount of current coming in from the batteries literally vaporized that section of the control board. It could be that the MOSFET destruction was secondary to the melt-down that occurred at the battery connections.

All the wiring external to the control board looks great and I see no evidence of heat stress :thumbup:

 

Marty you are becoming revered throughout the scientific community. . :cheers:

50121471557_cc1552ec88_z.jpg

 

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27 minutes ago, Rehab1 said:

Marty you are becoming revered throughout the scientific community. . :cheers:

50121471557_cc1552ec88_z.jpg

 

You crack me up Dan, as usual :lol:

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19 hours ago, Alj said:

From my experience of smelling magic smoke it is usually that overloaded components go either without boom or they just have a small hole out of which "magic smoke" escapes. I havent seen the cases where the whole PCB overheats and separates into layers like that. This can happen by one of the 2 reasons (or combination of 2) 1. PCB wires got too hot due to current.... But usually when this happens PCB wires quickly evaporate and PCB itself stays intact.  2. Inadequate heat sinking. Which is most likely the case here, also, most often PCB goes smoked from hot component on it and not from current flowing thought it, which also makes it most likely the case. Also if heat transfer was adequate the temperature of mosfet would not be much different from the temperature of heatsink and heatsink was not hot enough to melt anything from what it looks like from the pictures.

IMO silicone pad (sil-pad (tm)) used for MOSFET insulation here (between MOSFET and heat sink) while being cheap go-to way of insulating MOSFETs from the heat sink, is inadequate way of insulation/heat transfer in this application because silicone is just "good enough" for transferring the heat but not very good for this particular heat dissipation levels. THe alternative can be ceramic insulation (which is more expensive) or, better, schematic solution that does not require MOSFETs to be insulated because direct mounting might be required for this power levels....

If schematic solution is not possible, for example, because 2 groups of MOSFETs are running in different signal polarity but they can be joined within the same group the solution can be to directly mount 2 groups of mosfets to 2 not connected copper or aluminum plates and then mount those plates on a heat sink using insulation of choice (sil-pad?), in this case area of heat transfer through the silicone will be much higher.  In any case it is not very hard or time consuming to test this setup with thermometer under load and figure out if solution is working properly.

 

there is also heat transfer happening from the silicon to the MOSFET enclosure pad but if that would be the cause of MOSFET burning then MOSFET legs (and PCB) would stay cold and it would be just a small hole in MOSFET with magic smoke.

 

for the reference here's random youtube i found about guy testing different types of insulation and silicone pads is about the worst of them (but the cheapest one of course).

 

Do you think replacing the pad with thermal paste will help the situation?

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1 hour ago, ExplodeMilk said:

Do you think replacing the pad with thermal paste will help the situation?

As  @Alj wrote insulation will be needed, too! Some ceramic/mica plates. And don't forget insulation for the screws.

If this is made in a proper way it will increase the burden the wheel can take, but for sure not make it safe for all "possible burdens"

 

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