Jump to content

Top speed you can control on electric unicycle


tinawong

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone, 

 

This is Tina from shenzhen King Song Sports Equipment Co., Ltd. 

 

According to your riding experience, what's the top speed you can control? I mean the top speed you think is safe for you.  :)

 

 

  • Upvote 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think forum readers will understand your question differently. One may think that on smooth asphalt surfaces with no one around (s)he won't fall off the UC when doing 40km/h so 40km/h is "safe". Others may read your question more carefully thinking about 

you can control?

"Will I be able to  stop or turn around a little girl chasing a butterfly or something similar suddenly appearing behind an obstacle while running directly into my way?" I think more valueable information can be gathered asking this question within the context of riding situations (crowded streets, side-walks, gravel road, uphill, downhill,...) that require different levels of riding skill and common sense...

Common sense because there may be some UC-riders dreaming about becoming the next James Bond stuntman by using a crowded pedestrian shopping streets as obstacle courses... riding as fast as they dare... :D

Edited by Gunthor
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think my usual speed is between 20 and 29km/h on bike lanes, higher speeds only when there's lots of room or totally empty roads. I feel in control at those speeds and can brake the wheel pretty fast when need be, but always play it safe and drop my speed if I see pedestrians or bikes who haven't noticed me yet or am getting closer to a crossing or some other place where someone could suddenly get in my way. After a typical 20km day-time trip I have average speeds usually between 20km/h and 23km/h (measurements are done with a bike computer).

  • Like 2
  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depends a lot on the size of the tire. I think the street with 14inch 30kmh is sufficient. 18inch 45kmh probably suffice.
But. For Extreme is being driven out of the street, maximum speed 18inch should at least be 80-100kmh.
When the time on the town, your speed is approximately 10-15kmh.
In fact, I would hope also that other among the people much higher rate of speed no one would use.

  • Upvote 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Although I'm limited to 19kph with my current EU I always feel/wish I was able to go a little faster, so I would say an adequate speed would probably be between 30-35kph.  I mainly do city riding so not much of a chance to get up to a really high speed unless I hit a long distance cycle path.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With protection gears, my max safe speed would be 30km/h, I see no problem doing it on my Firewheel.
Without protection gears, for my everyday commute in work clothes, a suitcase and only a helmet, and riding on a road whose holes & bumps I know perfectly, my crusing speed is 25km/h, so I presume I can call it my "max safe speed".

Curiously, I find 15km/h less safe than 25km/h since low speeds compel me to take the sidewalk which is less flat and regular than a bike lane or a road portion. Any monowheel much slower than a regular bike is not very safe for commuting.

As vee said, wheel diameter is a factor. Power too. I consider my 350W generic clone 350W at 14km/h less safe than my 500W Gotway at 20km/h which is itself less safe than my 1000W Firewheel (16" wheel) at 25 km/h. The feeling of safety depends much more on the wheel performance and the body protections than speed.
The FW has a powerfull motor which has saved my ass many times on bad roads and it has tremendous braking power a lesser wheel has not. It has never failed me at high speeds (just once, because of the f#@&~g stupid BMS cutoff), contrary to the X3 clone or the Gotway.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Btw, the legislation amendment that is to come into force in Finland by the turn of the year states that the "maximum structural speed" of a "light electric vehicle" should not exceed 25km/h and the (rated?) power shouldn't exceed 1000W. I don't know how these numbers were picked, as they seem pretty arbitrary. Also, I'm not sure what the current definition for "maximum structural speed" is nowadays, I've found some references that said that at least in the past, it meant the speed achieved when the motor was putting out it's highest efficiency (highest power output, like the highest point in the speed/torque -curve of DC motors that's been posted on the forums multple times), but could still go faster, which could be wrong, whereas some sources say that it means the absolute maximum speed of the vehicle, but that could be wrong also.

I get speed limits on roads, what I don't get is the limited "artificial" top speed or power of a vehicle. It's still legal to own a tuned Suzuki Hayabusa that can go over 320km/h max (but of course not ride at that speed anywhere except closed areas), or a sports car that can go 250-300km/h (same thing with actual road speed limits), but it is illegal to have a moped that has over 45km/h maximum structural speed (again, whatever that is then...).  :D

Most mopeds and "light motorcycles" (125cc) in Finland are restricted to lower power (125cc shouldn't produce over 9kW, if I remember correctly, it's been around 15 years since I had one, otherwise it has to be inspected and re-registered into different vehicle class, I think the mopeds had limit at 1.5kW), but in practice everyone knows that most kids (or actually usually their dads) put them back to full power pretty soon...  ;)  Current 50cc scooters are "changed" by the importer to go no faster than 45km/h, but from what I've heard, actually all they do is turn one screw to change the air/gasoline -mixture ratio, and it can be changed back with a screwdriver... :D  At full power they can do about 60-70km/h.

</rant>

Sorry for thread hijack, a bit off topic here... ;)

Edited by esaj
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...

30 km is a decent cruising speed but myself and I know many others want to go faster. 45km+ would allow us to to keep even with some of the faster bicycle riders. Having the ability to go fast and actually using that speed are totally separate things and I would like to see more wheels capable of higher speeds without cutout or tilt back issues. Having the ability to set alarms or even tilt backs for lower speed riders is always good for extra safety.

  • Like 1
  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm more interested in the ability to maintain a good speed up long hills carrying an average western rider up to 100Kg. I'm happiest cruising between 22 and 30 kph but spend more time at the lower end of that speed. It just gets very annoying when the speed gets cut in half or worse after you've been going uphill for more than a mile.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just ordered the 1100w 18A from you guys. It should hold me over for a while, but I would love something even faster :)

 

On 2015/7/3 at 2:30 AM, EUC Extreme said:

Depends a lot on the size of the tire. I think the street with 14inch 30kmh is sufficient. 18inch 45kmh probably suffice.
But. For Extreme is being driven out of the street, maximum speed 18inch should at least be 80-100kmh.
When the time on the town, your speed is approximately 10-15kmh.
In fact, I would hope also that other among the people much higher rate of speed no one would use.

 

Pretty much this. I would like to have one for commuting, for that 40km/h or so is probably fine. I would also like to have one to start racing on controlled tracks. Maybe I am crazy, but I would totally purchase an EUC that went 100km/h or more.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For regular commuting on pavement and sidewalks with bumps etc, I'd say I wouldn't want to go faster than 18-20 KPH.  12 KPH is pretty slow, but that's what my generic does before it goes into beep beep beep mode.  At that speed I can probably recover from a fall without getting hurt.  I wouldn't mind a wheel with a maximum speed of 30 KPH, but I'd probably still only do about 12-18 KPH max without wearing lots of safety protection.

  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The thing for me is @ 25kph i don;t think my IPS Zero 350W could *really* hit the brakes without cutting off... So if there is an increase in speed I'd want a similar increase in...torque? Whatever it needs to be so that the motor can brake hard. 

FWIW I'm relatively new to the sport with only 100km on the clock and good control, but still learning hovering... so I might not have an accurate "read" on how wheels work well. 

p.s. 100km/h is *insane*!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think that about over 60 km h speed is difficult to implement due to Gyroscopic.
Directing becomes impossible.
Is likely to require the engine is not connected to the rim.
So the pull must either be done with a strap or some other.
Also the rim and rubber have to be extremely light.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with @EUC Extreme, I feel less safe doing 30kph on a 14" wheel than I do on an 18" wheel, and most of the users on this forum are on 14".

@tinawong I would love if I could set my KS18A 3rd beep to 40kph. With my old KS18A board, 35kph felt perfectly fine to cruise on a regular surface. Being in NYC, I would want use 40kph for momentary, burst acceleration, not for cruising, to avoid cars, bikes, etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For safety, I think up to 50 Km/h could be necessary so as to avoid collision with pro-cyclists on bike lanes. Also, that speed would be great in case you get chased by bicycle patrols in a trail, you can escape them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On March 30, 2016 at 7:46 PM, Kevin Grandon said:

Maybe I am crazy, but I would totally purchase an EUC that went 100km/h or more.

Okay Kevin, that DEFINITELY qualifies as crazy, especially on an EUC with no redundant systems.  Here's an excerpt from an article on driver safety:

The human perception time; is how long the driver takes to see the hazard, and the brain realize it is a hazard requiring an immediate reaction. This perception time can be as long as ¼ to ½ a second.

Once the brain realizes danger, the human reaction time is how long the body takes to move the foot from accelerator to brake pedal. Again this reaction time can vary from ¼ - ¾ of a second.

These first 2 components of stopping distance are human factors and as such can be effected by tiredness, alcohol, fatigue and concentration levels. A perception and reaction time of 3 or 4 seconds is possible. 4 seconds at 100 km/hr means the car travels 110 metres before the brakes are applied.

  • Upvote 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Riding a bike to tip over 200+ km / h speed.
EUC downfall is not any worse :)
I have said before that, I fall for asphalt rather than speed 40kmh speed 25kmh.
Harder speed slides more easily and does not hurt.
I can imagine that the fall of 60-80 kmh EUC is not bad unless misses something.

  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...