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esaj

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Everything posted by esaj

  1. According to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/INMOTION_SCV:
  2. Hi, I'm not sure if I understand your problem correctly, but I think your settings might be off, what are you using as min and max Z-values for the autoleveling? I haven't tried, but I could imagine something weird happening if you have same values for both (min = max) or higher min-value than max-value (min > max)? The Z Min and Max -values in Autolevel control how deep the bit can travel before it's considered a "miss" (min-value), ie it didn't hit the board at all, and how high to travel (max-value). So with above settings (min = -1.0 and max = 0.75), when you set a "zero
  3. Good point, never actually thought of that before. The largest copper clads I've used are 160x100mm, so never noticed as it's smaller than the maximum travel, but for anyone needing the maximum travel, rotate the four corner bearing supports 180 degrees compared to this:
  4. Never had the chance to try any of the bigger wheels, but even on the "small" (16") ones, I find it's considerably easier to brake when there's more "give" on the pedals (soft riding mode). I think it comes down to physics, your umm... "force vector" (or maybe momentum vector... couldn't come up with a better term right now ) points down and forwards when braking (gravity downwards + the inertia of your body going forwards), so if the pedals angle backwards while you brake, they're more perpendicular towards the movement and you're like "standing on a floor". When the pedals stay level, it's m
  5. Getting the mechanical braking "right" (ie. not causing you to faceplant because it brakes too much) would be quite difficult, plus you'd have extra parts that wear down over time, possibly malfunctioning mechanical brake could lock the wheel etc. I don't think the problem with current electrical braking is the power, rather just that you need to really push down backwards to trigger more powerful braking while maintaining your balance. On a power brake I lean backwards really heavily, almost as if falling backwards (takes some practice) while slamming down with my heels. If the wheel would br
  6. Vaikka sitä aikoinaan ehkä jopa suositeltiinkin (joissain latureissa on valintakytkin jolla voi tehdä 80, 90 tai 100% latauksen), näppituntuma on että näiden vehkeiden akut kannattaa ladata täyteen ja antaa balansoitua mahdollisimman usein, epätasapainoon menneet kennot tuhoavat akut paljon nopeammin kuin "luonnollinen" kuluminen. Poikkeus tietysti tuo pidempiaikainen säilytys, jolloin joku "30-40%" (jännitteenä jotain 3.6-3.7V per kenno luokkaa) lienee kohtuu optimi, eli ei liian korkea jännite jotta kennot eivät rasitu, eikä liian alhainen että ehtisivät itsekseen tyhjentyä kriittiseen piste
  7. Suurin osa eri litium-kemioista (ainakin isoilta valmistajilta) luvataan kestävän luokkaa 300-500 "tyhjäksi-täyteen" -lataussykliä, minkä jälkeen kapasiteettia luvataan olevan vielä n. 80% nimellisestä, sitten alkaa laskea nopeammin, mutta akkujen elinikään vaikuttaa muutkin tekijät. Usein akkua ladataan ennen kuin se on tyhjä, eikä välttämättä aina ladata ihan 100% täyteen, joten yksi sykli käytännössä saattaa tarkoittaa esim. kahta kertaa purkamista 50% ja sieltä täyteen lataamista (eli sama Wh-määrä kuin purettaisiin kerralla kokonaan tyhjäksi ja ladattaisiin takaisin ihan täyteen). Käytett
  8. Moi, on tullut ajettua töihin ja takaisin kaatosateessa KS16S:llä pari kertaa ilman kummempia ongelmia viime vuosina, vaikka kyllä se aina vähän jänskättää. Upotusta se ei kestä, mutta väittäisin että pelkkä sade ei vielä pyörää riko, ainakaan helposti. Yksi dismount on ko. sääoloissa tullut viime kesänä, kaupungin ukot olivat käyneet aikaisemmin poistamassa asfaltit toiselta kaistalta ajoradan kohdalta uusimista varten yhdessä valoristeyksessä ja sateen takia siinä oli n. 5cm vettä, eli ei nähnyt yhtään. Tulin vähän vauhdilla yli kun valot oli vihreät ja rengas vähän tökkäsi sitten yllättäin
  9. There's an old age poll from 2015 here: There's a huge amount of users that have joined the forums since (well, it's been close to 5 years, so not a big surprise), but I kind of get the feeling that the "old geezers" are still in the lead in the age groups It has been theorized before that this could mostly be due to more disposable income after a few decades of career and (post-) mid-life crisis
  10. John Eucist (yllättäin Eucist ei ole hänen oikea sukunimensä ) on perustaja ja maksaa kaikki viulut, eli käytännössä foorumin kk-maksut, summista en tiedä kovin tarkkaan, muistelisin vuosia sitten hinnan olleen jotain $50 luokkaa / kk, mutta inflaatio ja kohonnut käyttäjämäärä on luultavasti tätä jo nostanut. Välillä on tullut ehdotuksia että pyydettäisiin lahjoituksia tai laitettaisiin jotain mainoksia tms., mutta John oli sitä mieltä että summa on niin pieni ettei se ole hänelle ongelma, eikä hän halua mainoksia tai ulkopuolisia maksamaan foorumista, mieluummin pitää sen selkeänä, ilmai
  11. Anyone else notice that @mathishard hasn't visited the forums since March?
  12. Rehab1 sent me a broken ACM mainboard some years ago, if they still use the same stuff, it's pretty much impossible to wash off by accident. I soaked it in IPA (Isopropanol/isopropyl alcohol) that I use to clean flux off boards, took an overnight soaking and a stiff brush (repeatedly soaking & brushing), and I still couldn't get all of it off...
  13. Taitaa olla ostopalveluna koko foorumisetti, olettaisin että palvelinvarmenteetkin tulee Invisionin kautta. Johnin pitää laittaa reklamaatiota ja vaatia ainakin ilmaista kuukautta EDIT: Mod-foorumilla olikin viestiä, Invisionin moka... nyt pitäisi renewautua automagic hamaan tappiin saakka, kunhan laskut on maksettu.
  14. Don't know for sure, but I think the nominal numbers are more like "this is the average power the motor manufacturer has calculated that the motor should withstand in normal conditions constantly (like infinitely) without burning", and even then they're of course highly likely rounded. I'd imagine a western manufacturer would downplay the numbers and use conservative values so that customers couldn't claim warranty for cases where the motor was burned by overpowering it constantly, but for other (read: Chinese) manufacturers, it might be "better" to overestimate it. Nevertheless, the peak
  15. I have a Firewheel F260, in pieces, in the room next to me right now... It's a funny piece of the EUC history, but I don't see much point in reviving it, unless you have the parts handy (there were mainboards floating around at least two-three years back, I think, but finding one now might be iffy). Compared to pretty much any "modern" (released within a couple of years) wheel, the wheel itself is not that good, while not really bad either (for its own era, that is ) The video's uploaded in 2014. Looks a bit flaky these days, it can barely climb the hill with the low wei
  16. It is possible, at least @Jason McNeil has mentioned that he has had one return in the past, where the buyer told him that he just couldn't learn it, after a long time of trying. But, I'd claim that vast majority of people who stick with it will learn it eventually, and enjoy it (although to be fair, those who don't likely won't come to the forums to tell that, but still I'd say pretty much any person in the world capable of riding a bicycle will learn it if they really want to). The initial learning before things "click" varies wildly, from days to months before being ready to ride in the "ge
  17. Jos joku alkaa hommata tällasia oikeesti, niin pitäkää kuitenkin pliis järki päässä. Suomen kokosessa maassa kun joku kiskasee "sata lasissa" jonkun päälle, niin sit onkin ihan
  18. I doubt it would be the battery packs themselves, the side-leds show that the voltage measured by the mainboard fluctuates a lot when the charge port is touched. I'd put my money on mainboard or something weird going on with contacts. Since it disappears for some time after dismantling the wheel and putting it back together it could be contacts... Or some weird static build-up issue? As I recall, the charge port in KS16S goes straight to the mainboard, then separate wires go to each battery pack?
  19. I think it was @DaveThomasPilot who pointed out a (common?) design mistake in the reverse engineered Firewheel mainboard in how the wheels measure the battery voltage (probably common in many wheels): the usual set up is using very high resistances (hundreds of kilo-ohms) to form a voltage divider (you can't exatly put up to 84V direcly to an analog converter-pin in a 3.3V microcontroller without magic smoke coming out of everywhere ), and then a small-valued multi-layer ceramic capacitor (MLCC) paralleled with the low-side resistor to filter the fluctuations: The issue is that the M
  20. Well, I have no real answers, but just for a single reference: I have had my KS16S / 840Wh (16S4P with Sanyo cells, don't know the exact model though) for over three years now (manufacturing date for the wheel itself is 17.03.2017 based on serial number, of course the batteries are made before that). I'd love to tell the mileage, but for some reason the non-music BT is very, very touch'n'go (usually no-go, like right now) with my current phone. I'm still using the old "green app". The firmware is still 1.00, never updated. Not ridden very much, I'd guess less than 5000km / 3000 miles, bu
  21. Sorry for the delay, I don't visit the forums that often anymore or check the threads... quickest way to get my attention is tagging or sending a private message, but the delay might still be (up to) several days. Usually when I visit I may have tens or hundreds of notifications of posts requiring approvals and such, so even tags might get lost in the mass.
  22. I haven't actually followed the local domestic news that much for the last few days. Part of the country was isolated, and people can get fined if they try to cross in or out of the "zone" without a good reason (work usually), but other than that, there's no actual curfew declared or such, just a request for people to socially distance themselves, work remotely if possible, avoid visiting stores often etc, and AFAIK, it's going fairly good, people are doing that. Restaurants are allowed only to sell take out and most other such "gathering places" are shutdown. I haven't been outside excep
  23. Not a project I was really looking forward to, but I bought a 55" LG 4K OLED tv from a friend last summer, as he was moving to Norway for helicopter pilot training. Unfortunately it broke two-three weeks back. Not totally broke, but anytime a video was supposed to play (ie. a TV-channel, or one of the apps, like Youtube or Netflix), all it was showing was "snow" for the video, while audio was still playing, and all overlays still worked (like WebOS menus, Netflix menus and subtitles etc.). Searching online, it seems to be a somewhat common issue and I found out that the usual culprit is the bi
  24. https://www.nature.com/articles/s41591-020-0820-9 "Since the first reports of novel pneumonia (COVID-19) in Wuhan, Hubei province, China, there has been considerable discussion on the origin of the causative virus, SARS-CoV-2 (also referred to as HCoV-19) ... Here we review what can be deduced about the origin of SARS-CoV-2 from comparative analysis of genomic data. We offer a perspective on the notable features of the SARS-CoV-2 genome and discuss scenarios by which they could have arisen. Our analyses clearly show that SARS-CoV-2 is not a laboratory construct or a purposefully mani
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