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esaj

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Everything posted by esaj

  1. esaj

    Uses for old still good battery packs?

    At least some (most?) older IPS's have BMSs built into the mainboard or some separate board inside the aluminum cooling case-thingie, and the newer King Songs (well, at least KS16S, might be also the other S's) have the MT60-set up, but many other wheels seem to use just XT60's (or some other connector), so as long as there's no other wiring running between the battery packs and the mainboard, and they use the same "16S" (16 cells in series, not KS16S) batteries, the only issue should be being able to get the packs to fit inside the wheel. Connectors can always be changed (of course take the "usual" precautions if you start to fiddle around with the batteries: )
  2. esaj

    Uses for old still good battery packs?

    The batteries contain 18650-cells (like @digitalkenny said above), so you could take them apart and use the cells. On their own, the voltage is too high for most devices that use something like 12, 9, 5 or 3.3V, but with suitable (high enough DC input voltage allowed) devices, they could be used as-is. Most wheels use XT60's, but KS16S switched to MT60's (if memory serves) and apparently uses the third line for some type of communication between the BMS and the mainboard, so likely wouldn't work just by connecting the red and black wire there, but should for other wheels using batteries with same voltage (67.2V max, 16 cells in series). XT60: MT60: There are motorcycle lights available that work up to 80V input, but I had one die on me during testing, so the quality of these ones might not bet that good: These things are really bright, the picture's taken in a fully lit room but the surroundings look dark because of the camera. Homemade flashlight using 2 x 18650's, I use this during the winter to take the dog out late at evening/night, 10-15 minutes of use per day, usually need to recharge only every 3-4 months (with <2000mAh cells): Not a very efficient solution, as it uses simple constant current source to keep the current in check, step-down switching would be much more efficient (so it would need to be recharged even more infrequently). Easiest way to use them is to produce heat
  3. esaj

    Ks16s 1.05 firmware is here

    Just when I was considering whether I actually should try to update... x)
  4. esaj

    Headache

    Trying to keep this short: Not in this town, but in general it seems more riders are finding their way at least to the forums. Yes, not really long trips so far, but I commute on it daily now and sometimes take some longer laps. Nope, I'm considering selling the KS16B, that's why I rode it all the way to empty tonight (or until I couldn't stand the constant beeping that starts when the voltage drops to below 50V or so). Might have to leave it sitting turned on next evening, as it'll likely bounce back up a bit, then let it sit off for a while before charging & measuring the battery capacity. Always For the past few months, yeah, I'm building up parts list for an adjustable load (a project that I've meant to built for at least 1.5 years or so, never had proper cooling components and such) The printer too has mostly sat unused lately, I've also spent most of my PLA filament (something I need to order too) and left with a couple of kilos of ABS, which has been pain to print with. Usually my printing needs go hand in hand with the electronics projects, so kind of follows with the pause there... It's handy otherwise, but making any larger parts with it is sloooow (like 4+ hours print jobs) and sometimes it may need a few tries before getting things correct, so in addition to space, it also takes a lot of time to "find" the good settings. It's fun to watch though, well, maybe not for hours straight
  5. esaj

    Headache

    Just spent a couple of hours on and off trying to find what's wrong with my half-bridges... My head hurts, but I finally found 2 missing wires and one misplaced resistor in total, that caused the 2nd bridge high-side not to open. Oscilloscope and signal generator would be nice, had to go with nothing but cheap multimeter and 555-timer circuit to produce 25kHz square(ish) PWM. Yeah, nobody probably cares, but I just had to vent a bit Now, I still need to build a 3rd similar half-bridge before I can try to drive a motor...
  6. esaj

    Headache

    The course was between September and December, I haven't really touched the robots since I've actually had those power supplies laying around since mid-February, just today got around to finally start figuring out what's wrong. Between there and now I haven't really done much anything.
  7. esaj

    Headache

    That was a lot less dramatic than expected. Trying the faulty supply again, I could not get any voltage out from the outputs. I tried swapping the secondary board with connectors between the two units, but the working one was still working and the faulty one still didn't give out any voltage. Measuring around the outputs in both supplies, I found similar voltages with same settings on both units, all the way to the capacitor which (presumably at that point) was in parallel with the outputs. The most likely culprit was simply a bad contact at the output banana terminals. Most of the time was spent figuring out how to dismantle the front panel and the switches and boards attached to it so that I could get enough space to get to the terminals and then prying the nuts holding the board in place as I didn't have a suitable socket for a wrench and there wasn't much space. The board finally off: The banana terminals were simply connected by two screws on both sides of the board, pushing a lock washer against the traces. Over time, the contact has become worse, and when it originally dropped the voltage to near zero when I put any load on the outputs, the voltage was being dropped in the bad contacts. Apparently after that they didn't make any contact any more, as I didn't get readings from the output. I ended up simply soldering wires from the bananas and the middle connector (chassis ground) and put some foam plastic there to keep the board from making contact with anything. I then tested the supply with 100V idle, 50V / 0.1A load and 4V / 1A load (as I didn't have anything much more suitable in regards of power resistors or other load) and everything just worked. Also checked that the board or the parts near it don't get too hot to melt the foam plastic. While nothing near the foam got hot, some of the components do run pretty hot: Power resistor and a couple of transistors in the secondary board: Power resistors in the rectifying board: There's also a large TO-3 -packaged power transistor that sits against the chassis, but it never got higher than 40 degrees. Didn't really run the tests for very long either, something like 15 minutes each. I didn't take much pictures during the work (also I've noticed that the Cat S60's camera software, or maybe the camera itself, has horrible auto focus when trying to take close ups), but here's a couple that some people might find interesting: Like I said earlier, the supplies don't contain any SMD (surface mount) -components, and also very little in terms of integrated components (not much need really) and a lot of things are made with discretes, except the board running the 7-segment panel in the front showing voltage or current seems to contain more logic chips. The round components in the middle and to right are actually OP07- op-amps, and the one on the left is MC1741-opamp in a (nowadays) uncommon TO-99 package: I didn't try to reverse engineer the board really, since swapping them had no effect, so no need to look for a fault. The more (or at least slightly) interesting bit is the backside of the board: Back in the day, something like 70's and 80's I think, when PCB design and manufacturing was already more "industrial", small scale production runs and hobbyists still used boards that were drawn by (free) hand, sometimes directly to the film, then exposed the PCBs with UV and then etched and drilled them with their own hardware. It seems that these power supplies, while likely made in hundreds or thousands, were still too small scale (too costly) to make the boards in a PCB factory, or maybe they just had old school -designers who liked to design their boards by hand and the final boards are factory-made. Still looks a bit weird having accustomed to modern (usually) computer designed boards, and mind you that this is still an actual commercial product. You can find similar boards in lots of old devices dating to 70's and back, and some in newer products too. In DC/nothing really high frequency -stuff it doesn't really matter that much (to my knowledge) as long as safety distances for high voltage traces etc. are maintained. Now that I have a working (up to) 100V DC power supply with current limits, I can test stuff that's supposed to run off of wheel batteries (16S or 20S) without needing to use actual batteries. The originally working unit goes back to a friend that had bonked them from somewhere a while back, and dropped them off saying I can keep the faulty one if I can fix it
  8. esaj

    Headache

    Nah, didn't go to electronics school or such, mostly just been busy & tired, and things got a bit hectic. I actually resigned from my job at one point, but then ended up taking a part-time contract. Not much been going on in the electronics-side, the last thing I did was this in early Feb for a company year kick-off costume-party: It's just a bunch of "chainable" RGB-LEDs (WS2818/"Neopixels") and a controller for them. I used some velcro strap to attach it around my arm, with the final version having the controller glued to the back of the board and power wires running under my shirt to a battery in my pocket... The board and the "faceplate" are milled, the black part in-between is 3d-printed. Not much been going on since, someone did ask me for some help with building a speedometer for their wheel, but don't know if he ever finished it. I did get a couple of 0-100V adjustable linear power supplies, although only one of them works: The non-functional one does power up, the display works and allows adjusting the voltage etc, but when any current is being pulled from the outputs, the voltage drops near to zero. Could be that the current limitation is broken and activates regardless of where the actual limit is set to? It does help to have the identical working unit, so I can compare voltages and such between them. The company who made these sometime in the 80's has been defunct since early 2000's, and there's no schematics available, so I have to do some reverse engineering to find out what's wrong with the other unit. There's a lot of wiring and 4 separate boards (+ large other single components) in these things, luckily they use just plain through hole (THT) -components and not really many integrated circuits, so poking around is easier than with highly integrated/SMD boads. Also the wiring is done very neatly and it seems most of the boards have contactors so it's possible to pull them out and put them back in. Still, it's not very fast to figure out things (and I haven't really even began yet) and I have to be careful because I'll have to power them up every now and then to measure voltages going up to 115V AC or more in there (around 230V AC at the input to the large toroidal transformer). Since I've so far been working around just with low voltage DC-stuff, it's a bit nerving Also, the large capacitors (the big black blobs attached by white zip ties) hold the charge after power down and need to be discharged safely before poking my hands in there or measuring resistances or continuities.
  9. http://www.1radwerkstatt.de/epages/80603321.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/80603321/Categories/Category2 Tekevät mittatilauksena sellaiset että sopivat pyörään ja hyvälaatuisista kennoista ja BMS:istä. Jos tuolta päädyt tilaamaan, lähetä suoraan postia 1RadWerkstatt@gmx.de Sivuilla Jos Airwheeliin mahtuu vain yksi paketti (16S1P), saa sen kuitenkin 3500mAh kennoilla (luultavasti LG MJ1 https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/LG 18650 MJ1 3500mAh (Green) UK.html ), eli 210Wh. 1RadWerkstatt laskee akkujen kapasiteetin "oikeaoppisesti", sen takia esim. 210Wh kohdalla lukee 207Wh, 840Wh on 828Wh etc. Pyörien markkinointiosastot käyttävät pyöristettyä 60V -nimellisjännitettä kapasiteetin laskussa, nuo taas "oikeaa" 59.2V:tä (3.5Ah * 59.2V = 207.2Wh, 3.5Ah * 60V = 210Wh). Usein saanut nettisivuja paremman tarjouksen suoraan yhteyttä ottamalla tai ehkä pystyy neuvottelemaan hintaa vielä alaspäin. Kokonaisia akkuja en ole tuolta tilannut (olisin tilannut jos olisin tiennyt firman olemassaolosta custom-akkuja tilaillessa ), mutta muita varaosia (Firewheelin emoja ja akkujen BMS:iä) ja KS16S:n kyllä.
  10. esaj

    Update KS16

    Checked a couple of the update threads, but didn't find much info on what changes with the new versions. I'm still running 1.00 on the S with the old app and completely happy with it (I only use the app to check battery sometimes, and the wheel has worked just fine), but does anyone have a changelog for the newer versions? I'm cautious of the firmware upgrades, since it's not like updating your phone or computer OS, the wheel's not connected to internet, so no need for security updates or such, only if there's either a serious problem with the firmware or it brings something really useful. I doubt there's anything in those updated versions I'd really need, I think someone mentioned the ability to adjust the side lights, but I keep them off anyway... Still interested in what's changed, though. EDIT: Found these from some screenshots: V 1.03: Newly lock successfully alarm (beeping) feature V 1.02: Repair the gyro calibrating datas With the lock unicycle function With the password connecting the unicycle function Calibrate the speed of unicycles I haven't had problems with calibration or speed settings, so I think I'll still leave well enough alone
  11. Pari viikkoa sitten maanantaina (16.4.) näytti tältä: Saman viikon torstaina otin KS16B:n käyttöön työmatkoille, ja käyttänyt sitä joka päivä, vaikka aamulla lämpötila on voinut olla vähän yli nollasta +2:een lähtiessä.. Jäätä ei enää teillä varsinaisesti ollut, paljon hiekkaa kyllä. Viime viikon keskiviikko tai torstai taisi olla eka päivä kun pystyi ajamaan putsattuja teitä pitkin töihin. DSiden kanssa käytiin toissaviikonloppuna heittämässä pitempi lenkki, mutta silloin oli vielä hiekoitussoraa monessa paikassa paksulti. Tänään otin S:n alle ekaa kertaa tämän vuoden puolella ja heitin pitempää lenkkiä, vieläkään ei kaikkia pyöräteitä ole putsattu, mutta paljon parempi jo. Omassa pihassa on vielä varjopaikoissa vähän lunta, mutta näyttää se kevät tulevan, ei enää mene pakkaselle kuin "vain" muutamina öinä viikossa
  12. esaj

    King Song Charger Getting Very Hot

    I have a FLIR thermal camera on my phone, but since it's been winter, no reason to charge up the wheel(s). Have to remember to take pictures of the charger once I do. Maybe just with single charger, I usually charge using two "cheapo plastic bricks" in parallel through a Charge Doctor V2. 200 Fahrenheit (about 93 degrees Celcius) does seem excessive, especially since it's the outer plastic chassis temperature, meaning that likely the internals are running even hotter. Then again, how much quality can you expect for the cheapos? Sounds like they're set up to run pretty close to their limits, hope my house won't burn down...
  13. Onnea vaan uuden pyörän johdosta! V10F on itselle ihan uusi tuttavuus, en ole ehtinyt ja jaksanut foorumeilla enää niin paljon pyöriä... Jos tuo KS16B jää itselle, niin onpahan vara/projektipyörää, en sitä sen kummemmin ole (ainakaan vielä) koittanut mihinkään kaupata. Tuosta runko-projektista löytyy astetta pitempää ketjua täältä, käytännössä se on Firewheelin tekniikka + custom-akut kotitekoisessa rungossa: Läjä kuvia projektin varrelta: https://imgur.com/a/orjAz Videonpätkä koeajosta: Välillä oli jo korkealentoista ajatusta hiilikuitu-kevlar rungosta ja ties mistä, mutta loppujen lopuks piti todeta että jos tehdasvalmisteinen pyörä on (tai ainakin oli, 2015 vuoden pyörillä) vaarallinen, niin tuo on täysi tappovehje Kelien kylmetessä ja työkiireiden keskellä se jäi sitten ensin "tauolle" ja lopulta meni purkuun. Kukin tavallaan Omat matkat on tupanneet olla sellasia 1-2h yhteen putkeen huviajelua yleisillä teillä muun liikenteen seassa, joten vesisade, jäiset tiet ja kuulalaakerien tavoin renkaan alla pyörivä isompi hiekoitussepeli ei oo oikein houkuttanut Pitää hommata sellanen EUC Extremen ajopuku/kaatumahanskat -viritys, niin ei niin haittaa jos vetää naamallaan katua pitkin välillä Tietty jos alta karannut pyörä lentää jonkun autoon tai naapurin 5v tenavan päähän, niin sitten voi tulla jo sanomista...
  14. Muutama sata kilometriä pohjoisempana, vielä on jäätä paikka paikoin ja helvetisti hiekotushiekkaa joka paikassa, mutta viikon-kahden sisään olettasin että kausi käynnistyy. Ylimääräsenä lojumassa muuten KS16B, 680Wh akulla... Custom-akkujakin ois useempia kappaleita (Suomessa kasattu, 4 x 192Wh, kennoina LG:n MH1:t akkula.fi:stä, BMS:t 1RadWerkstattilta Saksasta) lojumassa, hyvin vähällä käytöllä olleet, ei paljon lataussyklejä, mutta aika voi jonkun verran olla maksimikapasiteettia syönyt. Jääneet yli yhdestä projektipyörästä, jos joku noista on kiinnostunut, niin voin katella saisinko kapasiteetit mitattua jne: Helpointa jos nuo saisi Suomeen myytyä, täältä ulkomaille postitus maksaa simona (toiseen suuntaan jostain syystä ei, KS16B taisi tulla 20 eurolla briteistä kotiovelle) ja akkujen kanssa muutenkin hankalaa... Jos ei sitten keksi ite muuta käyttöä KS16S pysyy vielä omana ajopelinä toistaseks, kattoo josko Ninebotin Z-sarjaa tms. joskus hamassa tulevaisuudessa. Mieli ois tehny alkaa väsäämään nastarengasta jossain välissä, mutta työt pitäny sen verta kiireisenä, että jäi ajatuksen tasolle.
  15. As there have been numerous questions about where to buy electric unicycles in country X, or which shops sell some specific brand/model, I've tried to compile a list of resellers and such to help you. It's by no means anywhere near complete, as there probably are a large number of resellers/agents/manufactures/etc who are hard to find by search engines alone, or don't have their own websites, but at least it should give you a few options where to look for. The original list was painstakingly compiled by me, using nothing but what I found here in the forums, and search engines and translation tools, and probably I can't even find most non-english sites, as I don't know the correct search words or understand the language... Hopefully you, other people and the resellers themselves will chime in to make the list more complete over time. Disclaimer While it should be common sense, let's go over a few things: This list is not a complete set of all the manufacturers/resellers/agents/etc. worldwide, and can contain errors, omissions, out-of-date information etc. While I try to avoid any errors or misinterpretations, I do not guarantee that the information here is correct in any way or at any time. I am not affiliated with or compensated by any reseller, EUC manufacturer or such in the list, nor compensated by electricunicycle.org for any volunteer work I do here as a moderator. I take absolutely no responsibility of any errors or omissions in the list or other information in this thread, or anything that may follow from viewing, using or misusing the list or this thread, visiting the sites or contacting the entities mentioned in this list, including but not limited to: any problems with the resellers, warranty issues, shipping problems or scams; loss of money, profit, time, life, limbs or organs, virginity, faith or any other damage, liability or loss you may suffer or unwanted side-effect or end result when engaging directly or indirectly in any way with any reseller, agent, manufacturer or other entity mentioned in the list. You do so at your own responsibility. While I at the minimum try to check that the site at least looks legit, I give you no guarantees of anything, as I have nothing to do with these resellers/web-sites/entities other than listing them (well, I might buy a wheel or some accessories from some of them, but it doesn't affect this listing). Basically, if something goes wrong, don't come crying to me. The list is here to maybe help you find a suitable place to get an EUC, but as it is probably never complete or up-to-date, there may or may not be more suitable options in your case elsewhere. Use the search engines, Luke. I reserve the right to remove any single entity mentioned in the list and not re-add them in case there's strong evidence that points that the reseller/entity is not legit, is dealing with illegal items or is a fraud, or for any other reason I see as a reason for removing the said entity from this list, and reserve the right to change this disclaimer and any contents of this post/thread at any time without warning. While I have expressed my opinions on some manufacturers, wheel models and such in other topics, and reserve the right to do so also in the future outside this listing/thread, I DO NOT endorse, advocate, give better or poorer visibility to, or otherwise recommend or shun any single reseller or brand over another within this listing or thread, whether I've used certain brand/model or not, or whether I've bought something from a listed reseller or not, or recommend ordering anything either from abroad or domestically or otherwise, nor breaking any international or local laws regarding importing wheels or related parts or accessories, using the wheels or in any other way. The choice is entirely yours. To put it simply, I hope this list and other information in this post is correct and useful to you, but on the other hand won't take any responsibility about anything Phew, I hope I made myself clear. Is your shop or a shop you know missing from the list, or contains wrong information? Are you reseller whose information is missing/wrong in the list? Please post to this thread, and I'll add/fix it to the list as soon as possible. Please give a link to the shops' front page or a section which shows the wheels (URL), mention the country or countries (and city or cities, especially if you have physical shop or are able to showcase the wheels in person) where the shop is located/shipping from and the brand(s) being sold. Do not advertise your shop/wheels with extraneous comments like "We have the best wheels/offers/accessories" or "Our wheel is the best and latest technology", stick to the needed information only and create a separate topic under Advertisements & Promotions for your wheel/shop/whatever, if you want to. Only resellers who sell directly to individuals (eg. private persons) one piece at a time are accepted. No whole/bulk-sales only, although it is ok if you sell both in bulk and one piece at a time. Ordering from Ebay / Amazon / Banggood / DXGate / Alibaba / other large e-commerce site (or whatever they're called) You can probably find lots of bigger and smaller resellers and manufacturers and (pretty much) any brand selling through these sites. I do not list such links here, visit the site and do your own searches to find what you're looking for. Ordering directly from manufacturer At least most manufacturers seem to sell also directly to consumers, so you can (usually) order directly from them. I have not included the contact information of the manufacturers here, but you can probably find it in their webpages, if you have a specific brand in mind and want to be sure to get the latest model. However, I have added direct manufacturer representatives who are registered in these forums, you can (probably) contact them directly with a private message to ask about the wheels/make an order. Ordering abroad vs. domestically Basically, the difference between buying from a domestic reseller or abroad is that you may need to pay additional customs duties and/or taxes when ordering abroad, depending where you are and where you are ordering from, and on the other hand, pay (maybe) more when ordering from a domestic reseller (as they've already paid the customs duties importing the wheels, and add taxes + margin on the price), but (probably) get faster turnaround and less shipping costs and such for any maintenance or warranty issues. Or not, this may vary from reseller to reseller and country to country. Compare the prices, costs and services yourself. To get more information about any taxes, customs duties or such when ordering abroad, check your local government, customs or such web pages for details and rates (and possible import limitations, if such exist anywhere for EUCs?). Warranty shipping especially overseas may also be costly, should such need arise, and if you have to pay for it yourself. Some manufacturers/resellers apparently have just sent the spare parts directly, without needing to ship the entire wheel or even parts back for warranty. Some may require the parts or the entire wheel to be shipped back. There may be costs to you or not, and they may vary a lot. I don't know, ask them what their policy is. There's also probably variation in warranties, defect liabilities, consumer protection etc. between countries, and those may or may not depend on where you have ordered the item and where you live. I suggest you find out such things before ordering. When ordering from anywhere, please note also that any transaction- and shipping-costs and such may or may not be included in the price. Locations the shops ship from Although a shop/site/whatever may be listed under country X/city Y (I've usually only extracted the location information from the "contact"-information or "about us"-section in the sites, if such is available and tells their location), it is possible that they only have an office or such in said country/city, and ship through a warehouse or other location in a different city/country. I leave it up to you to find out any issues this might affect (warranty, shipping, import duties, taxes...) before making any orders. If unsure about anything, contact the reseller/manufacturer/local goverment/customs/whatever seems suitable in the case directly and ask them. If you have any suspicions about any entity, the simplest solution is to not order from them. Manufacturer representatives and homepages Format: Manufacturer: username(s), homepage (if any/known) Airwheel: @Love Cherish @Arnold Li http://www.airwheel.net/ Caraok: @Janny, @Janny Wang Eyu: http://en.eyu.co/ F-Wheel: @Jesse Jin http://www.fwheel.cc/ Firewheel: - http://en.fire-wheel.com/index.html Gotway: @Jane Mo @Linneaunicycles http://www.kebye.com Huanxi: @Huanxi electric unicycle http://www.hx1000.com/en/ InMotion: @Bobwheel https://www.myinmotion.com/ IPS: - http://en.iamips.com/ @王月月 PinWheel: @PinWheel Joyce Rockwheel: @Barry Chen http://rockwheel.cn/ Suokuwheel: @suokuwheel http://www.suokuwheel.com/ King Song: tinawong has left KS? @Diana-Tan @Diana@szkingsong.com http://www.szkingsong.com/en/index.php Resellers in the forums This is an alphabetical list of resellers and and manufacturer representatives here in the forums (I'm not 100% sure of them all, please post and correct any wrong info). You can (probably) contact these people directly with questions/orders, but I'm not sure if some of them frequent the boards so much, so MIGHT have better luck with contacting the manufacturer/reseller via their pages or contact info found from there. FORMAT: USERNAME IN FORUMS (COUNTRY, shop) BRANDS Alwin Wong (Malaysia, Malaysia Airwheel, Malaysia Gotway) Airwheel, Gotway, Ninebot, King Song, others @bbking (Spain, Airwheelshop) Airwheel @Thewheeldeal (Australia, The Wheel Deal) Gotway OneWheel, Wind Rider, Chic @Gray Goodbarn (United Kingdom, Yorkshire Airwheels Ltd) Airwheel, Gotway @Jason McNeil (United Kingdom, WheelGo, USA, ewheels.com) IPS, Ninebot, InMotion, King Song, Gotway @johnc415 (USA) Gotway, IPS, Huanxi @Justina (Poland, electricunicycles.eu) IPS, King Song, InMotion, Solowheel @Kevin Lee (China/Hong Kong, independent) Gotway, King Song (others?) @Kok Fook Cheang (Malaysia, Asia e-Bike/Wind Rider manufacturer) Wind Rider, Rockwheel, IPS @Kyle Crilow (USA, How We Roll Wheels) Ninebot @mengke (Australia, WheelYouRide) Ninebot @Neale Gray (Australia, Milbay) Milbay @NevNutz (USA, Northern California, Tec Toyz) Gotway @Reagan Goh (Singapore, Ninebot.asia) Ninebot @Tim Haden (USA, HoodRiderz) Ninebot @Trey Lewis (USA, OneSeven) Gotway, IPS @vladmarks (United Kingdom, Project42) Ninebot, Inmotion, Uniwheel, Kingsong, Acton, Minimula @Wheelster (Canada, Wheelster) Airwheel, Firewheel, Solowheel, Ninebot, HX, IPS, Kaabo, SML, EHO, Cofly, generics Country list This is an alphabetical list by country with resellers who are located/ship from that country and which brand(s) they sell (at the time of adding to the list, as always, the information may not be up to date). Note that while city may be listed, the reseller may not have a physical shop there or their unicycles might be available for online-orders only and/or they might ship from a different country or city than stated. At least most sites/shops/resellers/distributors/callthemwhatyouwill probably ship to anywhere in the world, the per-country listing is to help people who want to order domestically or find out about possible physical shops near by to visit. Format: Reseller shop name, City name (if known): URL to shop Brands UNKNOWN/MULTIPLE COUNTRIES: EUniBikes.com, Denmark countrycode in phone number? http://www.eunibikes.com/shop/ TG, IPS FiresCycle, China countrycode? http://www.firescycle.com/ KMx, looks like rebrand for Firewheel F132/F260/F528 + some other two-wheeled? LightInTheBox, ? http://www.lightinthebox.com/ IPS, AirWheel, others... ROVR, ?: http://www.rovr.club/product/mobbo-electric-unicycle/ OneWheel, Ryno, Solowheel, SBU The Tech Life Store, ? http://www.thetechlifestore.com/product-category/smart-toys/outdoor-fun/ TG Wheelive: USA / China https://wheelive.com/ Fastwheel, WEERDA, Inmotion, Ninebot Airwheels, European Union/Slovenia: www.airwheels.pro Airwheel Australia: Milbay, Miami/Queensland: http://www.milbay.com.au/ Milbay (which is a rebranded King Song, AFAIK), Esway Tesla Wheels, ?: https://www.tesla-wheels.com/product/solowheel/ Solowheel The Wheel Deal, ? : https://www.thewheeldeal.net.au/ Gotway, King Song, IPS, Onewheel, Wind Rider, Chic Wheel you ride, Victoria: http://wheelyouride.webs.com/ Ninebot Austria CityWheel, Vienna: https://www.city-wheel.at/ AirWheel, Ninebot Funshop, Vienna: http://www.funshop.at/ Firewheel, Gotway, Ninebot, Solowheel, Airwheel, Inmotion, Monowheel, King Song Ninebot Austria, multiple distributors: http://www.ninebot.trade/index.php/home_ninebot_de_at.html Ninebot Ninebot-shop.at, Hohenems: https://www.ninebot-shop.at/ Ninebot Rentals: Mirtl-Motion, Vienna: http://www.mirtl-motion.at/ Ninebot (guided Vienna Tours & rentals, Ninebot Segways & Ninebot One) Belgium Cityzen, Brussels: http://www.cityzen.be/ Fastwheel, Gotway, Ninebot, F-wheel, Solowheel, King Song MonoWiel, Gistel: http://www.monowiel.be/ IO, MonoWiel (rebranded IPS?), Ninebot, InMotion, IPS, King Song Monowheels, Dilbeek: http://monowheels.be/ Gotway, Huanxi Brazil Ninebot Brazil, São Paulo: http://www.9botbrasil.com.br/ Ninebot Canada AirwheelUnicycle.com, Toronto: http://airwheelunicycle.com/Information/airwheel-models AirWheel Bestbuy, numerous locations: http://www.bestbuy.ca/en-CA/category/electric-unicycles/504392.aspx Sologear eRide-Toronto, Toronto: http://www.ewheelscanada.com Gotway, InMotion, King Song, Ninebot Gotway Canada, Ontario: https://gotwaycanada.com/ Gotway NineBotOne, Vancouver, BC http://www.ninebotone.ca/ Ninebot Ride the glide, Victoria: http://www.ridetheglide.ca/ Ninebot, Gotway Vancouver Electric Unicycles, Vancouver: http://www.vaneuc.com/webstore/en/ InMotion, Gotway, (King Song coming later) Wheelster, Quebec/Toronto/Montreal: http://wheelster.com/ Airwheel, Firewheel, Solowheel, Ninebot, HX, IPS, Kaabo, SML, EHO, Cofly, generics China Airebike, Jiang Su/Hong Kong: http://www.airebike.com/ Airwheel Air-Wheels, Hong Kong: http://en.air-wheels.com/22-electric-unicycle Airwheel, F-Wheel, Chic Smart Alloko, Shenzhen: http://www.alloko.com/all-products/ Airwheel Cocotool, Beijing: http://www.cocotool.com/portfolio/coolgo-most-popular-self-balance-electric-unicycle-x3/ CoolGo FazendoMedia, Beijing: http://balancingscooter.buy.fazendomedia.com/c1342681-gyroscopic-electric-unicycle Generics? Fosjoas, Shenzhen: http://www.fosjoas.com/Home/index Rebrands/generics? Geekbuying, Shenzhen: http://www.geekbuying.com/category/Bicycle-Supplies-1265 TG Holuby, Shenzhen: https://www.holuby.com/type/scooters.html Generics LifeJoys, Shenzhen: http://www.lifejoys.net/ FL (F-Wheel?) Ninebot Mall, Shenzhen: http://www.ninebotmall.com/ Ninebot Segwaybox, Shenyang: http://segwaybox.com/ AX37I (looks like Ninebot?) Smartride, Shenzhen: http://www.srwindow.cn/ Ninebot, InMotion, Yikebike, Solowheel Zapals, Shenzhen: http://www.zapals.com/outdoor-living/scooter-skateboard/electric-unicycle.html Generics? Croatia Airwheels, ?: www.airwheels.com.hr Airwheel Czech Republic Gotway.cz, Prague(?) : http://gotway.cz/ Gotway, Ninebot, Firewheel, IPS, Airwheel Denmark Air-Wheel.dk , Odense: http://air-wheel.dk/ Fly Sky Wheel Airwheel Denmark, ?: http://www.airwheels.dk/ Airwheel Coolstuff, Malmö: http://www.coolstuff.dk/ Solowheel, Airwheel Freego Nordic, Vejle: http://www.freegonordic.dk/ Freego, Okay Robot, Inmotion MyWheel, København (Copenhagen): http://mywheel.dk/29-el-uniwheel Airwheel, Firewheel, MyWheel Uniriders, Copenhagen(?): http://www.uniriders.com King Song Estonia Firstwheel, Tallinn: http://firstwheel.com/ Firstwheel, Airwheel, Ninebot, InMotion Finland CDON.com, Maarianhamina: http://cdon.fi/ Airwheel CoolStuff, Helsinki: http://www.coolstuff.fi Airwheel, Solowheel DG-Products, Espoo: http://kevytilmailu.com/index.php?id=10&ala=62 Airwheel, Ninebot, InMotion, King Song eCycle, Helsinki/Järvenpää: http://www.ecycle.fi/kauppa/ Gotway, InMotion E1on.com, Mikkeli: https://www.e1on.com/fi/tuoteryhma/727288 King Song Joyride Games, Forssa: http://www.joyride.fi/ JoyrideWheel (Looks like it's rebranded F-Wheel Dolphin One) Ollu.fi, Lohja: http://www.ollu.fi/ Generics, Huanxi Teknik Magasinet, Espoo/Helsinki/Lempäälä/Turku/Vantaa/Jyväskylä: http://www.teknikmagasinet.fi/tuotevalikoima/urheilu-ja-vapaa-aika/sahkokayttoiset-kulkuneuvot IPS, MonoWheel (rebrand of IPS?), ORB Wheel Verkkokauppa.com, Helsinki/Tampere/Oulu : http://www.verkkokauppa.com/fi/catalog/10864c/Pyoraily-Kevyet-sahkokulkuneuvot Airwheel, GoZero France Airwheel Boutique, Monistrol sur Loire: http://www.airwheelboutique.fr/ Airwheel Airwheel France, Paris: http://www.airwheel-france.com/index.php Airwheel AlterMove, Lille / Lyon: http://www.altermove.com/vehicule/solowheel.html Beepre, Rool'in, Solowheel Decathlon, 260 stores in France: http://www.decathlon.fr/solowheel-electrique-id_8303597.html Solowheel E-Bicycle, Paris: http://www.e-bicycle.fr/gyropode.php eWheel Fastwheel, Paris: http://www.fastwheel.fr/site/fastwheel/ Fastwheel Fastwheel France, ?: http://monocycle-electrique-fastwheel.fr/index.php/magasin-monocycles-electriques/ Fastwheel Firewheel France, Toulouse https://fire-wheel.eu/en/ Firewheel, Gotway, IPS, Airwheel Funnybike / E Roue, Paris: http://funnybike.fr/ Gotway, F-Wheel, Pukka, Solowheel, Ninebot Gyromax, Rebenacq: http://gyromax.fr/36-roues-electriques Inmotion, Ninebot Gyroroue-shop, Paris: http://gyroroue-shop.fr/ King Song, Rockwheel, Inmotion, Ninebot, and GotWay High'Tems, Beauvais: http://hightems.eu/17-monocycles Ninebot, King Song IPS Boutique, ?: http://www.ipsboutique.fr/ IPS MobilityUrban, : http://www.mobilityurban.fr/gyropode/ Smart Chic, NeWheel, FastWheel, Airwheel, Rockwheel, Legway, Firewheel Ninebot France, Paris: http://www.ninebot-france.com/acheter-louer/boutique/ Ninebot Ninebot France, ?: http://www.ninebotfrance.fr/ Ninebot Norauto, Marseilles/Lyon/Toulouse: http://www.norauto.fr/produit/solowheel-electrique-blanc-1500w_882133.html Solowheel Onebot, Nantes: http://www.onebot.fr/home/9-ninebot-one.html Ninebot Quad-Custom.fr, Noailles: http://www.quad-custom.fr/54-mono-roue-electrique-et-mini-gyropode Pamolod TeamScoot, Monistrol-sur-Loire: http://www.scooter-electrique-urbain.fr/13-monoroue-monocycle Freego, Ninebot, Pukka, Fastwheel, IPS, Airwheel, Rockwheel, Firewheel, Legway, generics... UP & GO, Saint-Étienne: http://www.up-andgo.fr/#!monocycle/c1yc2 UP & GO VIC Electricity, Bobigny: http://vic-electricity.fr/indexsous.html FosJoas Wheelyon, Lyon: http://wheelyon.fr/ Ninebot Germany 1RadWerkstatt, ?: http://www.1radwerkstatt.de/ King Song Electro-Sport, Eichwalde: http://www.electro-sport.de/ Gotway, Firewheel, Ninebot, IPS, Airwheel Free-Wheel, Bonn: http://www.free-wheel.de Ninebot, Airwheel Monowheel-kaufen.com, Glashütten: http://monowheel-kaufen.com Monowheel Monowheel-kaufen.de, ?: http://monowheel-kaufen.de/ Ninebot, Airwheel, Monowheel, generics Ninebot-kaufen, Glashütten: http://www.ninebot-kaufen.com/ Ninebot Ninebot Germany, ?: http://www.ninebot.de/ Ninebot Project42, ?: https://project42.de/6-elektronische-rader Ninebot, Inmotion, Uniwheel, King Song Pulox, Cologne: http://www.pulox.de/MonoRover-Elektro-Einrad Mono Rover Scooterhelden, Berlin: http://scooterhelden.de/online-shop Airwheel, Firewheel, GotWay, Inmotion, Monowheel, Ninebot India SuperScooter, Noida: http://superscooter.in/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=52 Generic Indonesia Gwendita Shop, Jakarta: http://gwendita.com/98-home-appliance Uniwheel Ireland Project42, (United Kingdom/London) : https://project42.ie/ Airwheel, Firstwheel, Ninebot, InMotion, Uniwheel, King Song Italy Eruota, Padua: http://www.eruota.com/ Gotway, Inmotion Luxembourg Electricity, Luxembourg: http://www.electricity.lu/index.php/fr/catalogue/mono-roues Ninebot Malaysia Asia E-bike, ?: https://www.facebook.com/asiaebike International sells: http://www.asiaebike.com/#!shop--cart/c3al Wind Rider, RockWheel, IPS Airwheel Malaysia, Multiple dealers?: http://airwheelmalaysia.com/ Airwheel Malaysia Airwheel, Shah Alam: http://malaysiaairwheel.com/ Airwheel Malta Techpoint, Birkirkara & Fgura: http://www.myips.eu/ IPS, lease available Netherlands DeVi motion, Obdam: http://www.devi-motion.com/webshop/electric-vehicle/p-1/D1000618--gyroscope-self-balancing-unicycle-(white).html GM-Wheel E-WheelShop, (Belgium/Gistel, affiliate of monowiel.be) http://www.e-wheelshop.nl/en/electric-unicycles/ Ninebot, IPS, InMotion Future Wheels, ?: http://www.futurewheels.eu/ King Song -rebrands: KS-14B 174Wh swappable battery (FutureWheel Noir/Scarlet), KS-14C 800W 680Wh (FutureWheel Force) Monowheels, Dilbeek (Belgium): http://monowheels.be/ Gotway, Huanxi New Zealand Impaq, Auckland : http://www.ipsunicycle.co.nz/where-to-buy/ IPS Norway CoolStuff, Oslo: http://www.coolstuff.no/ Airwheel, Solowheel Teknik Magasinet, (12 cities, check their site): http://www.teknikmagasinet.no/nyheter/sport-fritid IPS, ORB Wheel Ghetto wheels, Oslo: http://ghettowheels.no/ NinebotNinebot.no, Grålum: http://ninebot.no/ NinebotAirwheel Norge, Drammen: http://airwheel.no/ AirwheelTopseller Norway, Stabekk: http://topseller.no/ Ninebot, Hyperoll, Osdrich, SkywalkerCdon.com, ?: http://cdon.no/ Airwheel Poland Electric Transport Group, Świerklaniec, : https://www.electricunicycles.eu InMotion, IPS, King Song, Solowheel eUnicycles / emonocycle, Wroclaw http://eunicycles.eu King Song Puerto Rico: Airwheel Puerto Rico, Guaynabo: http://www.airwheelpr.com/ Airwheel Singapore Airwheel Singapore: http://airwheelsg.com/ Airwheel ESports: http://esports.com.sg/products/electric-unicycle.html Airwheel, IPS Falcon PEV: http://www.falconpev.com.sg/product-category/electric-unicycles-shop/ Ninebot, Wheelies Ninebot.asia: http://ninebot.asia Ninebot Passion Gadgets: http://www.passiongadgets.com/airwheel-unicycle/aiwheel-ips/ Kaabo, Airwheel, Gotway, Ninebot, F-Wheel, The Wheelies: http://thewheelies.sg/ Airwheel, Gotway, IPS, Ninebot Slovenia Airwheels, Maribor: www.airwheels.si Airwheel South Africa OddWheel, ?: http://oddwheel.co.za/product-category/unicycles/electric-unicycles/ Airwheel Spain Airwheelshop.es, unknown: http://airwheelshop.es/ Airwheel Air Wheel Shop, Campanillas (Malaga): http://www.air-wheel-shop.com/3-1-roue Airwheel, iGo, Hotard MediaMarkt, 76 stores, check site: http://tiendas.mediamarkt.es/ciclos-electricos Ninebot, Run&Roll MoCycl, Barcelona: http://www.mocycl.com/shop/ Mocycl Tienda Ninebot, Bilbao: https://www.tiendaninebot.com/ Ninebot Sweden CoolStuff, Malmö: http://www.coolstuff.se/ Airwheel, Solowheel Flash Store, Hestra: http://kingsong.ulcraft.com/ King Song Green Ride Store, Uppsala: http://www.greenridestore.com/ Gotway, Orb3t, Sbot (Ninebot/King Song/IPS to be added later?) Gyroway, ?: http://www.gyroway.se/ Gyroway, InMotion, Ninebot Teknik Magasinet, (Almost 40 cities, check their site): http://www.teknikmagasinet.se/produkter/sport-o-fritid/eldrivna-fordon IPS, MonoWheel (rebrand of IPS?), ORB Wheel Switzerland Cycletec, Küsnacht: http://www.cycletec.ch/velos-und-e-bikes/solowheel-einrad Ninebot, Solowheel E-Ride, Zurich/Horgen, Bern, Geneva: http://www.e-ride.ch/en/ Firstwheel, Ninebot, Airwheel Einrad Shop, ?: https://www.einradshop.ch/einrad-shop/de/87-e-einrad IPS Kite-Shop.ch, Goldau: http://www.kite-shop.ch/de/evo-skates-elektro-kickboard-trotti/e-balance-scooter IPS LED Workshop, Thörigen: http://ledwerkstatt.ch/produkt/stehroller-ninebot-one-e/ Ninebot Mein Solowheel, Schwerzenbach?: http://meinsolowheel.ch/ Solowheel My-Wheel, Frenkendorf: http://www.my-wheel.ch/ Ninebot, IPS Rollster, Oberkulm: http://rollster.ch/ninebot-one Ninebot SBUV3, Unterwasser: http://www.sbuv3.ch/index.php/de/ Solowheel, Hovertrax, SBUV3 Stay Mobile, multiple dealers/cities: http://www.stay-mobile.ch/dealers.html Ninebot Superwheel, Winterthur: http://www.superwheels.ch/ Superwheel The Airwheel, E-Ride affiliate?: http://theairwheel.ch/ Ninebot, Fastwheel, F-wheel WheelzWorld, Carouge: http://www.wheelzworld.com/welcome.php Gotway United Kingdom Airwheel UK, London: http://www.theairwheel.com/shop/ Airwheel Personal Electric Transport, London: https://personalelectrictransport.co.uk Acton, Ninebot, Inmotion, E-Twow, Egret, Citybug, PET, Gotway, IPS Poolmarket Bristol: https://www.poolmarket.co.uk/ - Ninebot, Minimula, Xiaomi Project42, London: https://proj42.co.uk/ Ninebot, Inmotion, Uniwheel, Kingsong, Acton, Minimula Speedy Feet, Gloucestershire: http://www.speedyfeet.uk Ninebot, Gotway Tokatron, London: http://tokatron.com/ Rebrands (looks like Gotway, Huanxi, Macwheel (which is a low-powered Firewheel-copy)) WheelGo, London: http://www.wheelgo.com/ IPS, Inmotion Yorkshire Airwheels, Harrogate: http://yorkshireairwheels.co.uk/ Airwheel, Gotway United States Airwheel USA, (unknown): https://theairwheelusa.com/ Airwheel Dragonize, ? (Is this even in USA? :D): http://dragonize.org/index.php/my-shop/category/64-scooters TG ElectricUnicycleReviews.com Store, ?: http://www.electricunicyclereviews.com/s/ Huanxi (HX), Suoku, King Song, Ninebot EUniProShop, Seattle VA: http://www.euniproshop.com/ Super Wheel eWheel, New York NY(?): http://www.ewheel.net/ AirWheel, eWheel. Freeman, Ninebot, Rockwheel, Firewheel eWheels.com, Miami, FL: ewheels.com InMotion, King Song, Gotway Forward California, Santa Rosa, CA: http://www.forwardca.com/collections Ninebot Future Unicycle, Buffalo WY: http://futureunicycle.com/ Solowheel, IPS, King Song, InMotion, Ninebot Hoodriderz, New York NY: http://www.hoodriderz.com/?referral=eucf Ninebot How We Roll Wheels, Jacksonville Beach FL: http://www.howwerollwheels.com Ninebot InMotion USA, ??? : https://www.myinmotion.com/ InMotion/Solowheel Juiced Wheels, St. Louis MO: https://www.juicedwheels.biz/ King Song MenWheel, Blue Bell PA: http://www.menwheel.com/product-category/electric-unicycle/ MenWheel My Fun Wheel, Brentwood CA: www.myfunwheel.com https://squareup.com/store/myfunwheel IPS, Airwheel, Gotway, Ninebot On Balance Outdoor, Highland Park IL: http://www.commute-connect.com/electric_unicycles_skateboards.html SBU, Solowheel OneSeven, Siloam Springs, AR: http://www.oneseven.xyz/ Gotway, IPS Raijin Cycles, Tampa, FL: https://raijincycles.com/ Gotway Solowheel Seattle, Seattle WA: http://www.solowheelseattle.com Solowheel Tec Toyz, Santa Clara, CA: http://tec-toyz.com/ Gotway The ebike store, Portland OR: http://www.ebikestore.com/index.php?id_product=160&controller=product&id_lang=1 SBU
  16. Sorry for taking this long to answer, I don't frequent the forums that often these days... the "???" is there, because on the United States-part of the list, I've listed the city & state for the shop, and didn't find the info in the pages. " Locations the shops ship from Although a shop/site/whatever may be listed under country X/city Y (I've usually only extracted the location information from the "contact"-information or "about us"-section in the sites, if such is available and tells their location), it is possible that they only have an office or such in said country/city, and ship through a warehouse or other location in a different city/country. I leave it up to you to find out any issues this might affect (warranty, shipping, import duties, taxes...) before making any orders. If unsure about anything, contact the reseller/manufacturer/local goverment/customs/whatever seems suitable in the case directly and ask them. If you have any suspicions about any entity, the simplest solution is to not order from them. "
  17. esaj

    New Inmotion V10 (V8 Fast)

    Yes, it's relevant, a mosfet that has failed in "open" (non-conducting) position won't cause any rotating resistance on the motor, whereas "closed" (conducting) position will cause the resistance when two phases get short circuited together. The terms "open" and "closed" refer to the circuit loop here, and only closed loops conduct current, probably you termed it the other way around. But even then if only one phase is closed (conducting) and the other ones are open (non-conducting), it wouldn't cause any resistance, it has to be two (or all three) phases shorted together, so that the motor windings create a loop "between themselves". However, this will likely happen as the controller tries to keep driving the motor when a mosfet fails, since one of the phases is continuously shorted to either the negative or positive rail, once the controller switches the conduction of one of the remaining phases to that same rail, the phases get shorted together. There's a bunch of alternative scenarios that could happen there (like a shoot-through when the opposite mosfet in the same half-bridge starts to conduct, strong braking current and/or back-EMF voltage spike when two phases short together in full conduction), but likely when one mosfet fails, the chain reaction following in the next split second destroys more of them, leaving two or more phases shorted to the same or both power rails, at which point you'll notice the motor is braking even when the wheel's otherwise turned off. The problem is that there's nothing except those mosfets that prevent the two phases of the motor from being connected together, and once the mosfets have failed in conducting state, removing power from their gates has no effect (as you've likely noticed, the motors resist turning even if you turn off the wheel or remove the battery, it's the physical connection between the motor phases). If there are two boards and one of them fails shorting the phases, cutting power to that board won't do anything, it would have to be able to cut the short circuit from the motor phases, otherwise the failed board will keep the motor braking while the other one tries to drive it. There would have to be more complicated and elaborate bridge and board design, allowing the failed board to cut the the shorted motor phase loop (actually, disconnect all the motor phases from the failed board) and give the control over to the secondary one. I don't think fuses or relays or such would work, fuses would likely be too slow, by the time it would blow the motor would already be braking hard and you'd loose your balance, and/or using fast fuses, too sensitive, blowing under normal driving circumstances due to a high power spike, like fast acceleration from standstill or accelerating up steep hill. Normal mechanical relays would cause faceplants just on their own, as the contactors would bounce around during normal vibration and knocks on the wheel, cutting the power by themselves. A simplest one I could come up with a moments notice that even has some theoretical chance of working was to use secondary high- and low-side mosfets, that are normally kept conducting, but in case of failure, they would be used to cut the failed mosfets from the loop. "Normal" half-bridge with single high- and low-side mosfets on the left, secondary mosfets in series on the right (the high-side secondary might be P-channel to ease gate drive voltage requirements). Still, this is far more complicated to actually implement in real life than shown here, there needs to be a fool-proof way of detecting the failure of either low- or high-side mosfet, so it won't shutdown just because there's a sudden "normal" current spike there, and it needs to shutdown the failed half-bridge fast. Secondary bridges (or entire secondary board) would then have to take over in a split second to prevent faceplant without any sudden braking/acceleration/coasting of the motor. The secondary mosfets could also fail at the same time if it's a shoot-through or similar, the parts cost goes up since the mosfet count is again doubled (and they're the most expensive part of the board, maybe not singly, but since you'd need 12 instead of 6 or 24 instead of 12 them), the software becomes much more complicated because it needs to monitor and make "smart" decisions what is actually a failure and what is just normal spike, how to turn over the control to the secondary board etc.
  18. esaj

    What Are Your Favorite TV shows?

    I read the book quite long time ago, it was actually fun to watch since I had completely forgotten most of the plot and the ending. Of course no TV-series can ever be as good as the book... Still waiting for https://arstechnica.com/the-multiverse/2015/06/syfy-to-adapt-and-film-dan-simmons-hyperion-as-an-event-series/ but I guess it might have been cancelled. Also wouldn't mind if most of William Gibsons' production were brought on screen. Or Neal Stephenson's Snow Crash. Or Stephen King's entire Dark Tower-series...
  19. esaj

    Ever Buy Stuff That You Probably Don't Even Need?

    The company we order our phones from didn't have anything with real qwerty-keyboard (which these days is pretty much limited to the new Blackberries), but then I found out that they had the Cat-phones I haven't had much real use for it since checking the ceiling heating panels, should go shoot in the attic to see if there are heat leaks... other than that, I plan to use it for much faster detection of burnt components or components running hotter than they should on boards. One thing about thermal imaging is that different surfaces not only emit heat at different efficiencies (emissivity) but also reflect heat. Thermal camera is not an "x-ray" -device, it cannot see through things, and "reading" the temperature values correctly from the pictures is a skill of its own (which I don't really have). Just because something looks warm on the image doesn't mean it actually is, try for example pointing the camera to something metallic like a spoon while you stand close to it or move your hand towards it while shooting... the surrounding thermal (infrared) radiation and your own body heat will reflect from it, and it will look (much) warmer than it actually is. On the other hand, something might appear hotter/colder on the image than it is, because it emits less of the heat and/or the emissivity setting of the camera is wrong. There are tables available, and the FLIR-app on the phone has a (crude) setting for the emissivity, but not actual values, just something like "Matte, Semi-Matte, Semi-Glossy, Glossy". What can make it even harder is that things that don't look that shiny/reflective to our eyes (visible light) still might be in the infrared-wavelengths... Not that the camera is bad or anything, but don't take the actual temperature readings as absolutely correct values. For example, to actually see if the battery or mosfets in your wheel are actually running very hot (at least relative to their surroundings), you'd need to open the compartment so that you can point the camera directly to the board/battery. If just shooting the shell, the part that's over the board compartment could look warmer than the rest, but won't give you that much indication, and the shell plastic itself might reflect at least some heat from the surroundings.
  20. Umm, did I understand correctly, you take in an InMotion and give discount for a Solowheel Glide? Isn't Glide the rebranded InMotion? Also, "perfect for anyone with an entry-level wheel looking to upgrade", and then you only take in big name brands? A Gotway is hardly "entry level" (well, maybe something like the older MCM2's and such), a Solowheel Classic might be... That aside, yeah, it's not a bad idea if you've got some of the cheapest models or a more older (needing battery replacement) wheel, but for anything newer/higher-end model from said brands, the owner would likely get a far better price (and in real money, not "store credit/discount") just by selling it as second hand.
  21. Roll the wheel gently on its side on a carpet or something soft to see which points hit the surface first. Of course that only covers flat surfaces, a protruding rock or such could still hit an unprotected point "in the wild". I did this with the Firewheel, but didn't bother with the KS16S and just slapped some foam on the corners Compared to the KS16S padding I did...
  22. esaj

    New Lower Pricing For Glide Series

    Wasn't Inmotion Korean? Although I wouldn't be too surprised if the wheels are actually made in China...
  23. Except for one little thing: how do you measure when the battery is full or empty, if the voltage change across the charge state is very small (maybe smaller than voltage drop caused by high current draw over the internal resistance)?
  24. Electrochemical stuff... goes way above my head really. Like Chriull said, the voltage difference is due to different chemistry. But those "conventional" 1.5V alkalines don't go to 0V either, I think they die somewhere around 1V or somewhat below. Trying to pull current from them at that point will just drop the voltage further, but you really get no useable power out anymore. I never got further than reading about galvanic pairs and the potential difference (ie. galvanic cell voltage) of different metals:
  25. esaj

    Headache

    I haven't played around much with it, but other than the FLIR-camera, it seems plenty fast and the battery should last a good while between recharges, but I can't really tell yet, because I've only had it for a day. The industrial look is nice, and clearly it's directed to people like construction workers etc, as it should withstand a 6-foot drop to concrete, and 2m/7 feet submersion for a while (5m/16 feet up to one hour when the small switches in front are turned to the "5m"-position, which seal speaker and microphone etc. holes) as well as the military specification demands for dust/shock/etc. -proofness, not that I have tested dropping or submersing it, nor do I plan to. Figured it should last better than most phones at least They're not very common really. The upsides are the low cost vs. other types of heating (at least when installed during construction ) and they actually do work, most people think that heat only goes up, but these work by radiation, not convection (warm air does go "up", or actually above cooler/denser air/gas, radiated heat doesn't care about gravity or buoyancy or such). On a cold day you can actually feel that it's (somewhat) colder under tables and such, as the radiation comes from above. Illogically, normal "radiators" actually work more through convection (warming air that then rises up and out from the radiator) rather than radiation, and that's why they're placed low on the walls. They're completely maintenance free, until they break down. The element itself is just a "film" or a prebuilt-panel with heat resistor wire, but over time as the wires contract and expands with temperature, they'll break. Since the wood paneling or sheets or whatever is used on the ceiling surface material is usually nailed shut, the only ways to get to the panel are either by tearing down the ceiling or trying to reach it from above, but that's not that good here either really, as there's so much insulation in-between (2 x 50mm insulation sheets + plastic sheet to prevent humid air from rising out and condensing, and 400mm of rockwool on top of that) and the attic flooring joists run perpendicularly a good 40cm above them... Like said before, I doubt I'll even try to replace them, instead just switch to radiators once the rest of the elements start to die. The panels that are broken might have been for who knows how long without anyone really noticing, they've been in place for over 30 years. The only place that's clearly colder (around 18...19 degrees C when it's cold) is the bedroom, as both heating panels there are gone and there's nothing else heating it up, except warm air coming through the forced ventilation system and through open door. I was expecting to find at least a few dead panels, so no surprise here. I'd be a lot more worried if the heating wires inside the floor concrete slab would have been broken, as replacing those is hard (tear off all floor tiling, jackhammer the slab, remove old cables, install new ones...)
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