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hobby16

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hobby16 last won the day on August 4 2015

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About hobby16

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    Bordeaux

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  1. Hey @hobby16, I ordered the charge doctor V2 for 84 MSX with dual ports from you site via PayPal.

    I've tried to confirm that you got my address and can ship it, but I got no response. I have no problem whatsoever with the fact that you do this on your free time, and that it may take some time. I just wanted to be certain I'm in the pipe for delivery.

  2. Hey

    charged my wheel with the charge doctor and when i unplugged it the dysplay turned off and doesnt come back.

    unplugged it, plugged it back on still the same charge doctor won’t come back on.

    is it dead?

    1. meepmeepmayer

      meepmeepmayer

      There's a way to disable the display, maybe that happened somehow, check if you can re-enable it.

      Also I think @hobby16 isn't here very often.

  3. Yes indeed, I make the Charge Doctors on my spare times. So it's not always as smooth as I wish because of only 24h per day. Thank you Chriull for intervening.
  4. I haven't sent to Canada in the last 2 weeks so your order has not been served. I had vacations so there is lack of stock and some delays lately, all my excuses. But orders are always served, even if I don't send acknowledgement to payments (my selling system is by email, so very primitive, but it works). Of course, if I stop selling, the first thing I'll do would be to put my "buy page" down, to avoid unshipped payments.
  5. At low bat, I have the beeping when exceeding 15-20km/h. The beeping is not constant , only when I accelerate. Then the wheels tilts up and forces me to stop. A somewhat different behavior than what's on your wheel, probably because we don't have the same firmware (I've updated to the latest firmware using the app). What's annoying is the bargraph is not linear. It's something like 3 bars = 0-80% trip, 2 bars = 80% -95% trip, 1 bar = 95% to 96% trip, then the wheel stops.When I can't ride anymore and have to step down and push with the handle, there is still 1 bar on the bargraph while i
  6. Nice setup, Christian! And nice 3D printout's color, the chargers and the Charge Doctor are in a cozy place. When unplugging the second charger, the charge current drops from 4A to 2A, so it's normal that voltage by drops delta voltage = R.I, R being the resistance of the charging chain (wires, connector, bms, protection diode, cutout mosfet...), I = 2A. I don't understand your question about "voltage bleed". As to charging to 100%, you don't need to disengage physically the Charge Doctor, you can do it by the CD's menu (2 or 3 clicks). I presume that's what you did, if not, check
  7. Yes it is an issue. Not serious but it is still a non-optimal use of the LiIon batteries. Compounded by the fact that many experienced people still see their wheel's battery (LiIon) like car battery (lead acid) and think keeping it charged at maximum is good. Old habits die hard. But we certainly can agree that the problem is case dependent, some batteries are too small compared to the needed range so the user needs to charge to 100%, some BMS are good and some are an abomination. Autocut of charging at 80% or even less is more for users with high end wheels and big batteries where range and h
  8. No offense, but you are utterly wrong here. Look up any BMS datasheet or even better the IC datasheet, you'll see that overvoltage detection is always higher than the constant voltage threshold 4.2V. Most have 4.28V over-voltage thresholds, I have even measured some up to 4.35V thresholds, all legitimate BMS in brands like Xiaomi or Minimotors. Add to that the tolerance of about 0.05V on the component accuracy and the risk of overcharge becomes statistically significant. I assume I don't need to discuss your other generalities, some ok, some questionable, but all irrelevant to the fact th
  9. I agree that lower voltage increases current. But not that much as to impact significantly the battery's life. For example if you charge to 58.0V (80%) instead of 58.8V (100%), the difference in voltage is less than 2%, so is the current. A non significant difference. On the other hand, charging to 80% instead of 100% eliminates all risk of overcharge which has a huge negative impact on the battery's lifetime. Don't forget that all the unicycle's BMSs do balancing by current "bleeding" with a rather small current (50 to 100mA) compared to the charge current (2A or more). So as soon as a c
  10. Ninebot monowheels and gyropods have used so far 15S batteries ie, 54V nominal (value used in battery specs) and 63V max (value on the sticker on the charger's back). They have "downgraded" to 14S batteries (51V nominal, 59V max) on the Z10, which is a technical error and a regression IMHO. Powerful wheels need higher voltages to reduce ohmic loss, it's not as if the wheel diameter was too small to allow for more wiring (associated to higher voltage), there is plenty space in a monowheel's motor! The trend for higher voltages is general on other high end wheels like Inmotion V8, V10, GW,
  11. It's probably the 14C control board's voltmeter function which has not been correctly scaled. The difference is rather big and weird. Several causes : - charging has been terminated a bit early. As you said, waiting until current drops to 0A would add some Wh to the total - difference in discharge and charge currents accounts somewhat for the difference in Wh because energy loss (in the wires and inside the cells) is not the same depending on the current. I have seen it when comparing charges at 2A then at 4A. - when charging at high currents, expect that the batt
  12. Thank you, it's good to know. More points to the Inmotion as my next wheel. A soft/wavy wheel is outright dangerous when riding at more than 20km/h or jumping curbs or hitting holes. Even on a low-speed historic Solowheel (v.e.r.y wavy), I find it scary. It's the "comfortable mode" on my Firewheel and I avoid it as pest : hitting a hole when the wheel is "wavy" means that I already fly while the wheels tries to get me back to vertical. The "comfortable" mode has failed me many times and it's not so comfortable since it stresses me out so much. I ride at 25km/h so I now systematically use
  13. @Bram, I totally agree. With a 1.5A charger, current cutoff gives a limited range : setting the threshold at 1.3A will probably cut at 90% but not lower (some lucky V8 users with a 2.5A charger have more leverage). Whereas with voltage cutoff, you have more resolution in the threshold and can autocut at much lower level, eg 80% or even 70%. As to the fluctuation, as hinted by @FreeRide, it is due to the charger which has some "hesitation" when passing from the constant current mode to the constant voltage mode. Maybe it's by (bad) design, maybe it's specific to your particuliar charger, to be
  14. The apps are not at all reliable, their soft are always sloppy. They take no data from the BMS (like eg the coulombmeter), only the voltage and deduce from it the % of charge, no wonder it's not a consistent value. As to the amps fluctuating, I have the same thing on one of my battery packs and it's a pack with a defect cell! Maybe your pack has the same problem, maybe not, hopefully (because 20S packs may have another behavior). As to the grapher KST, I don't know what's is wrong but I can say that Win10 is not the culprit. The problem may come from the config file, the path to the
  15. Horizontal and vertical correspond to the gyroscope's X and Y axis respectively. The board is programmed with a fixed setup for X and Y so the two axis are not permutable and what you need is not possible. You should probably have to remove a battery pack of the Firewheel to make room for the GW board. The problem is the FW battery system is such a mess (two packs sharing one BMS).
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