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Begode EX30 4000W 3600Wh 134v Suspension


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2 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said:

Yes, I read that too! I hope it's not true and they just rode fast. Marty needs to do a range test.

Did the original C40 motors of the EX and Monster Pro (before thy went back to their usual C30/C38) also come with higher batter usage?

someone else rode pretty casual without pushing the wheel. Max speed 30mph and he got slightly more range than the same route with a sherman-s. The range is still kinda up in the air right now

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I have a question about the clearance of the front part of the wheel... considering the YouTube video review I watched by Electric Dreams where he warns about that.

The road which I use when I ride my wheel is quite bumpy -- with some deeper bumps. If I had the EX30, would it catch the front on a deep bump and flip me over?

Some of the road bumps are so deep (1/2 foot or so) that I can hear the tire on my V-11 do a free spin for a fraction of a second until it grips the road again.

What about the pedals? Are they higher or lower than the V-11 pedals?

Edited by jmsjms
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1 minute ago, jmsjms said:

I have a question about the clearance of the front part of the wheel... considering the YouTube video review I watched by Electric Dreams where he warns about that.

The road which I use when I ride my wheel is quite bumpy -- with some deeper bumps. If I had the EX30, would it catch the front on a deep bump and flip me over?

Some of the road bumps are so deep (1/2 foot or so) that I can hear the tire on my V-11 do a free spin for a fraction of a second until it grips the road again.

What about the pedals? Are they higher or lower than the V-11?

I doubt you'll catch the battery box on bumps. It took a 40 degree hill with an abrupt transition to hit the corner of the battery box. The ex30 will be more like a non suspension wheel in terms of clearance. Keep the tire pressure higher and suspension shock pumped up and it should be ok

Your v11 leaving the ground is an inherent problem with the v11 suspension design. Due to the unsprung weight of just the pedals moving and no damping adjustment with the air shocks, the v11 feels "pogo sticky" and the tire often leaves the ground. Other people complain about the same thing with the v11. Most of the newer suspension wheels ive tried dont have this issue

I havent ridden an ex30 yet, but the low to the ground battery boxes and heavier weight should make it way more stable than the v11 regardless of pedal height

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20 minutes ago, jmsjms said:

I have a question about the clearance of the front part of the wheel... considering the YouTube video review I watched by Electric Dreams where he warns about that.

The road which I use when I ride my wheel is quite bumpy -- with some deeper bumps. If I had the EX30, would it catch the front on a deep bump and flip me over?

Some of the road bumps are so deep (1/2 foot or so) that I can hear the tire on my V-11 do a free spin for a fraction of a second until it grips the road again.

What about the pedals? Are they higher or lower than the V-11 pedals?

1/2 a foot deep is pretty deep. I would personally be concerned seeing how low the battery on the ex30 is. I have seen the wheel bonk things, but falling into 1/2 foot hole is different

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1 minute ago, BKW said:

1/2 a foot deep is pretty deep. I would personally be concerned seeing how low the battery on the ex30 is. I have seen the wheel bonk things, but falling into 1/2 foot hole is different

Whenever my wheel comes in, I'll document how it does. My main concern is being able to bonk up a curb, which in the US is usually 6". 

But like you said, 6" pot hole is another game changer. That's big enough to bust a lot of car tires and possibly cause rim damage. I'd be actively avoiding 6" deep pot holes on my EUC. 

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55 minutes ago, trailless said:

Whenever my wheel comes in, I'll document how it does. My main concern is being able to bonk up a curb, which in the US is usually 6". 

But like you said, 6" pot hole is another game changer. That's big enough to bust a lot of car tires and possibly cause rim damage. I'd be actively avoiding 6" deep pot holes on my EUC. 

Yea I dont think ANY EUC is currently equipped to handle 6" holes besides the s22 and sherman-s. Even then, why are you actively hitting 6" potholes on the road. Carve around that stuff

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1 hour ago, jmsjms said:

Some of the road bumps are so deep (1/2 foot or so) that I can hear the tire on my V-11 do a free spin for a fraction of a second until it grips the road again.

 

1 hour ago, BKW said:

1/2 a foot deep is pretty deep. I would personally be concerned seeing how low the battery on the ex30 is. I have seen the wheel bonk things, but falling into 1/2 foot hole is different

He said "bumps" 6" deep. 

If they were 6" deep potholes, he should be calling the civil engineering department at city hall and get them patched up.

Edited by techyiam
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It's definitely pot-hole season over here at the moment ! We had a very cold snap, then a quick rise in temps, and there are some real doozy's that have appeared recently, the worst of them being at least 6 inches. I don't risk them at all on my wheel, suspension or not, and they get circumnavigated every time if at all possible.

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7 hours ago, techyiam said:

 

He said "bumps" 6" deep. 

If they were 6" deep potholes, he should be calling the civil engineering department at city hall and get them patched up.

HAHAHAHA!!

Oh, you wonderful, optimistic Canadians! Aren't you cute? With your friendly, efficient government and polite public-sector workers! (And universal health care, and non-blood-sport politics...)

"Call and get them patched up"  he says...:roflmao:

Hoo-boy! Thanks, I needed that...

Now, back to the U.S. Pothole Apocalypse...

Edited by UPONIT
Hit a pothole while typing...
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23 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said:

Yes, I read that too! I hope it's not true and they just rode fast. Marty needs to do a range test.

Did the original C40 motors of the EX and Monster Pro (before thy went back to their usual C30/C38) also come with higher batter usage?

Got 65 Km GPS max of harder riding with the EX (lot of hills here) , think normal effizienzy for the C40...think the 134V drains faster (if you ride it max hard, so of course you drain the battery more like an exn ridden max hard because the 134V will deliver more W then..., goes faster etc, but if you ride both the same they will have nearly the same WH/Km i guess)

Edited by onkeldanuel
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47 minutes ago, onkeldanuel said:

Got 65 Km GPS max of harder riding with the EX (lot of hills here) , think normal effizienzy for the C40...think the 134V drains faster (if you ride it max hard, so of course you drain the battery more like an exn ridden max hard because the 134V will deliver more W then..., goes faster etc, but if you ride both the same they will have nearly the same WH/Km i guess)

Technically the 134v battery would take less amps to maintain the same speed as the 100v battery. However, there are a number of other factors such as motors, weight, wind, elevation changes and most importantly how fast you ride. 

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9 hours ago, trailless said:

Technically the 134v battery would take less amps to maintain the same speed as the 100v battery.

That isn't what others are saying. It seems to be a common belief (wrongway and others like him) that lesser voltage means more range. I assumed this is because of the motor requiring 134v or 100v. The battery systems (134v vs 100v) can't really be looked at without considering the motor.

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1 hour ago, Uras said:

That isn't what others are saying. It seems to be a common belief (wrongway and others like him) that lesser voltage means more range. I assumed this is because of the motor requiring 134v or 100v. The battery systems (134v vs 100v) can't really be looked at without considering the motor.

The motor doesn’t require any specific voltage though. The controller outputs PWM current at a voltage that the motor’s kv value requires for the specific speed. At low speeds the voltage that goes in the motor is very low.

 Motors for 84V and 100V GotWay EUCs even used to be the exact same ones. Not sure if they’ve still changed them for ones designed for a higher voltage, or are the modern top speeds only achieved by upping the maximum voltage.

A higher voltage system requires less current for the same amount of power. But the energy consumption comes from several factors.

 For example, people ride faster with faster wheels. And any additional speed uses battery like crazy. I’m not sure if there are yet any actually good and precise range comparisons between 100V and 134V wheels.

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7 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

The motor doesn’t require any specific voltage though. The controller outputs PWM current at a voltage that the motor’s kv value requires for the specific speed. At low speeds the voltage that goes in the motor is very low.

 Motors for 84V and 100V GotWay EUCs even used to be the exact same ones. Not sure if they’ve still changed them for ones designed for a higher voltage, or are the modern top speeds only achieved by upping the maximum voltage.

A higher voltage system requires less current for the same amount of power. But the energy consumption comes from several factors.

 For example, people ride faster with faster wheels. And any additional speed uses battery like crazy. I’m not sure if there are yet any actually good and precise range comparisons between 100V and 134V wheels.

The EX30 does have the 4000w motor so that would affect it's range if ridden hard. 

Archee did a range test on the EX30 and the Sherman S. 

  • EX30: 53.31 miles with 111.9V
  • Sherman S: 54.88 miles with 81.8V 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/ElectricUnicycle/permalink/5840168436081071/

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EX30 is 4kg heavier, so slight difference was expected in ShermS’s favor. But the EX30 was left at avg 3.5V per cell, while the ShermS was at 3.4V. So the ShermS did use more energy.

 The low voltage tilt-back threshold and behavior are different between wheels, and it can mess with the results of you’re comparing actual power consumption. The voltage readings were good to have though.

 

 Edit:

The EX30 does have the 4000w motor so that would affect it's range if ridden hard. 

 Yes, if ridden hard. The wattage value is the rating for the nominal power handling, not directly related to consumption. A motor that’s better cooled has a higher wattage rating with no difference in consumption or efficiency.

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1 hour ago, mrelwood said:

The motor doesn’t require any specific voltage though. The controller outputs PWM current at a voltage that the motor’s kv value requires for the specific speed.

That makes me wonder then, would a 134volt system (for example) be more economical with a 100v motor vs a 100volt system with a 100v motor? If that is so, it would also address the issue of voltage drop as the battery depletes. A 134volt system would have an overhead of 34v for a 100 volt system. I'm digressing; I'd be amazed if no one has thought of this if it's correct.

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24 minutes ago, Uras said:

That makes me wonder then, would a 134volt system (for example) be more economical with a 100v motor vs a 100volt system with a 100v motor? If that is so, it would also address the issue of voltage drop as the battery depletes. A 134volt system would have an overhead of 34v for a 100 volt system. I'm digressing; I'd be amazed if no one has thought of this if it's correct.

It's not the motor that's 100v. It's the battery and controller. But you're right. If there were 2 wheels, 134v and 100v, and both had the same 3000watt motor, the 134v system would be more efficient at the same speed. 

Edited by trailless
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I’m not sure if it’s that straight forward though. While the motor voltage can’t be higher than the battery voltage, the motor voltage and current are controlled by the controller’s mosfets. What’s more relevant for the power consumption is the overall motor current, ie. burden.

Unless I’m mistaken, if a 100V wheel has a free spin speed of 100km/h, riding at 50km/h runs the motor at 50V. Same motor on a 134V wheel would also run at 50V, but the free spin speed should be close to 134km/h.

 The motor current is determined by the burden, so if you accelerate at the edge of faceplant, the PWM utilization / pulse width is at 100% (= 0% “safety headroom”). That’s when all of the battery’s power (that the controller can give out) goes into the motor.

 With both controllers, the motor voltage and current are the same as long as you ride below 100km/h. What differs is only the controller input voltage. With the 134V wheel the conversion is from 134V to 50V, on a 100V wheel it’s from 100V to 50V. I guess the former is a slightly more effective conversion, but I’m not sure.

 

 Voltage drop at lower battery levels is a whole another thing though. The battery cells themselves drop in voltage when they are stressed. If both batteries are at 20%, the voltage drop per cell is the same on 100V and 134V wheels (if they have the same battery capacity). But of course the total voltage is still higher on the 134V wheel, so the safe riding speed is higher.

 Some higher voltage wheels use a HT motor though that has a different kv value (speed per volt), in order to achieve more output power at the same speeds. In that case the free spin speed (and the safe riding speeds) on a 100V and 134V wheels can even be the same. What differs then is that the motor gives out more power from the same motor input on the 134V wheel that has the HT motor.

 So yes, more is more. But whether it’s actually useful or needed is yet a whole another topic… I don’t ride all that aggressively, and never quite reach 50km/h, so a more expensive 134V system would be completely lost on me. I haven’t seen the difference in efficiency to be all that big.

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