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Begode Master 134V 2400WH Suspension


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1 hour ago, omshree said:

Ok, have a V1, 1500 km, heavy use, 95kg with gear, off road, uphill, no problems at all, but took the battery to a service shop to reinforce the connector. For my surprise it was spotless, but did the hc reinforcement, see pics   

https://imgur.com/a/88gATdu

 

 

 

Awesome news!  What type of service shop was it?  Do you know which battery pack this affects?   

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4 hours ago, omshree said:

Local shop did it, they specialized mostly in drone batteries, was easy for them, yes all 8 weak spots been reinforced. It's a standard 50E setup.

 

nicely done, that's what i sudgested in chat

 

Untitled.jpg

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   The 🔥Fire Brand starts attracting more and more attention lately🔥🔥🔥… Not at all surprising for me.

   I’m sorry for people that suffer right now 😢😢, it is not fair for the 🔥Fire Brand to behave like that with their customers. I hope everybody learns something about B*****. 

Edited by Paul g
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Is this battery issue only on the master with 50e packs? I just had the RS batteries replaced under the recall with ewheels with 50e packs from Litec. 

I'm hoping the lower 100v system and the Litec build will do well for many many miles to come. 

These new suspension wheels look great in the short term but my money tree is out of season right now so as bad as I want to have better off roading on the knees I think waiting this out is the better decision with all these issues.

There seems to be a lot more interest in EUC by people new to the hobby and that is coming on the heals of the most powerful,  and problem prone releases in our short history of fun. This is a recipe for a lot of bad things, including more bad press. I'd hate to read about a failure in traffic resulting in death that could have even prevented by these companies just building a safer product.  Sadly safety doesn't sell very well, more power does. 

These new wheels aren't cheap anymore either, 2k, 2500, that's not too bad....but upwards of 4k and beyond makes these issues way more unforgovable to me.

 

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1 hour ago, Flying W said:

Is this battery issue only on the master with 50e packs?

No, Not Only the 50e Masters have had this issue. I believe Murland Fish had a hard cut out crash on his p42a Master some months ago, directly related to the "Nickel Strips" issue.

There were pictures posted online at the time, but I'm unable to track them down at present or recall where the info was posted - it was most probably on FB.

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On 9/29/2022 at 4:03 AM, Cerbera said:

Dammit, you're right ! That's the second time in as many days I have got the wrong machine :) It's almost as if there are too many different types ! Excuses excuses... raise your game CBR ;)...

It’s no big deal. Let’s blame Begode for making all their new wheels look alike:)

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2 hours ago, fbhb said:

No, Not Only the 50e Masters have had this issue. I believe Murland Fish had a hard cut out crash on his p42a Master some months ago, directly related to the "Nickel Strips" issue.

There were pictures posted online at the time, but I'm unable to track them down at present or recall where the info was posted - it was most probably on FB.

If the cutout/BMS nickel strip failure was back a few months, might this issue be specific to the original V1 models, or is it showing up in the replacement V2 also?

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56 minutes ago, Freeforester said:

If the cutout/BMS nickel strip failure was back a few months, might this issue be specific to the original V1 models, or is it showing up in the replacement V2 also?

There is no known case like that on v2, this is why they redesigned how the packs are connected.

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24 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

There is no known case like that on v2, this is why they redesigned how the packs are connected.

The trouble is, I have v2 for example, but my packs are not connected in a way that tolerates disconnection of one of them. Whenever I disconnect one of the wires, the wheel goes down...

So how can I know what these lame "engineers" have done inside... I must admit I am genuinely afraid of this "company" and this wheel in particular.

Yesterday I've sold my perfectly good ks s18 and wonder wasn't this a big mistake. Probably it was.

I'm going to hire an experienced and proven electrical/electronics engineer to tear it down and fix/improve what can be fixed and improved. 

All in all, it is an expensive wheel, which is getting even more expensive both as time and money to fix the mechanical (grizzla pads, bumpers, side panels) and electronic/electrical shortcomings (going through hiring people to fix them and building fireproof cabinets).

I am seriously disappointed. And this is not a random rant, nor unsubstantiated one.

Edited by Aztek
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26 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

There is no known case like that on v2, this is why they redesigned how the packs are connected.

This was my understanding, but just wanted to be clear,  not that I’ve any great interest in buying one. Thanks for the confirmation.

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31 minutes ago, Aztek said:

The trouble is, I have v2 for example, but my packs are not connected in a way that tolerates disconnection of one of them. Whenever I disconnect one of the wires, the wheel goes down...

So how can I know what these lame "engineers" have done inside... I must admit I am genuinely afraid of this "company" and this wheel in particular.

Yesterday I've sold my perfectly good ks s18 and wonder wasn't this a big mistake. Probably it was.

I'm going to hire an experienced and proven electrical/electronics engineer to tear it down and fix/improve what can be fixed and improved. 

All in all, it is an expensive wheel, which is getting even more expensive both as time and money to fix the mechanical (grizzla pads, bumpers, side panels) and electronic/electrical shortcomings (going through hiring people to fix them and building fireproof cabinets).

I am seriously disappointed. And this is not a random rant, nor unsubstantiated one.

If you have indeed the V2 the 2 upper and lower packs should be able to operate the wheel on their own, so disconnecting just one of them you should be able to still have the wheel powered on, if not I would verify if you really have a V2 and if all the packs are ok (measure with multimeter).

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If we look a bit further down that page we might see the reason her battery packs have done that. Apparently her wheel has been resting exclusively on those battery pack cases with the whole weight of the machine on this stand ! If that is the case, I would say that was user error.

1458493258_Standproblem.thumb.jpg.3bd9a47919c6d51a0a9552d1346146e8.jpg

I don't like that they are made of what seems to be cheap deformable plastic, warped by the screws and will be doing whatever I can to mitigate that myself, but I very much hope these sort of all over cracks can be avoided if we don't apply the full weight of the wheel to them !

Edited by Cerbera
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And even without fall, these weak battery boxes will be under stress from leaning on power pads during acceleration and breaking.
Since the plastic boxes are not rigid, yet this is where the pads (split pads especially), it means that some of the forces are transmitted to the pack every time.

I would recommend against using pads on Master without a rigid plate for "fairing" added.

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2 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

If we look a bit further down that page we might see the reason her battery packs have done that. Apparently her machine has been resting exclusively on those battery pack cases with the whole weight of the machine on this stand ! If that is the case, I would say that was user error.

1458493258_Standproblem.thumb.jpg.3bd9a47919c6d51a0a9552d1346146e8.jpg

You can see in the picture you selected and the ones in @fbhb's post that the wheel is resting on the pedal hanger: not the battery boxes.

Not user error.

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58 minutes ago, fbhb said:

As I had previously warned and been afraid would become a problem with the Master's battery housing and brackets being made of plastic at the same time as being used as a stressed, structural member (unfortunately, the same implementation as All the Master derived wheels BeGodeWay has been rapidly announcing), has just been posted for the first time on Facebook by an owner whose battery mounts are disintegrating with cracks All over!

It is a very poor choice and a real safety concern for the batteries to ONLY be held in place, under stress as part of the wheels structure, by flimsy thin plastic housings, wood screws and plastic brackets IMHO, here is the proof so check your battery mounts regularly - if you own a Master!

307712627_8017938901611754_4499832029708

309677265_8017938851611759_1739350218940

310267245_8017938861611758_2298147794803

310191232_8017938884945089_1745437009832

310278188_8017939108278400_4407116192665

310116436_8017938838278427_8454813506865

Here is the link to the Facebook post for reference and context:

Electric Unicycle dot org EUC | Hello, how is your "begode master" | Facebook

Yeah the reason this happens is because the pedal hangers are loose, they have sideways play and the only thing that "stabilizes" them keeping them straight is a) The kickstand and b) The battery boxes. This also means that sideways stress on the pedals will be transferred to the battery boxes.

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Hmmm. If it isn't user error, that is possibly enough to make me cancel my order. However this is the ONLY unit I have seen so far to have experienced this sort of all-over cracking. Has anyone seen any others ?

Edited by Cerbera
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3 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

Hmmm. If it isn't user error, that is possibly enough to make me cancel my order. However this is the ONLY unit I have seen so far to have experienced this sort of all-over cracking. Has anyone seen any others ?

I have not seen another case but someone designed a replaceable Battery Cover which I found from a Telegram discussion about them breaking: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5445933

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Adam "Wrongways" YouTube video teardown of the Master, back in June flagged up how flimsy the battery boxes are, Also showing cracks around the "wood screw" holes!

Timestamped below:

 

Edited by fbhb
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9 minutes ago, The Brahan Seer said:

With a battery cover would the internal stresses on the battery packs still be a problem due to the Masters design?

Same stress would be transferred internally, everything is packed quite tightly, could mean cracks on components such as BMS for instance if really unlucky.

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2 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

Same stress would be transferred internally, everything is packed quite tightly, could mean cracks on components such as BMS for instance if really unlucky.

This is what I was afraid of. The forces transmitted through the pedal hanger would still exist.

So having a plate won't stop this and any practical workaround is virtually impossible. This really disheartens me.  So how much trust do you have with this wheel especially  if you plan to ride at speed and/or on long cruises? This is the question I would ask myself before buying this wheel.

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