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Begode Master 134V 2400WH Suspension


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14 hours ago, RaidenHUN said:

I went it though from Inmotion v12 HT to T4 to Master. 

Sorry @RaidenHUN you misunderstood what i meant. What I was meaning is that you were looking at the V12 HT to T4 (which I compared loosely to a hot hatch) to Master (which I compared loosely to a sedan) because the characteristics of these EUC's are quite different.

If you want nimble look at your original choices or lighter wheels, If you want less nimble [harder to ride (as a learner*)] go for the Master. Good luck in your search whatever you get will be life changing and a lot of fun. 

An other analogy is if you start out going to the gym do you jump straight onto the heavy weights, or work up to it. You can do either but working up to it is much easier.

* in regards to the weight. Although nimbler lighter wheels can be harder to learn the basics too. But a lot easier on the leg muscles.

Edited by The Brahan Seer
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5 hours ago, Cerbera said:

Another day, another thing to check - this time its those weak pathetic hall sensor wires, and the fact that they are floating about like a dick in the breeze inside that bracket where it goes into the MB compartment, and getting crushed / stripped unless we catch it early...

As suggested in video comments we can fix this with foam tape and a couple of X-form zip ties actually clamping the cable to its grip.

I dont get it.

It seems to me that this wheel would have been perfect if they spend 200-300 USD more on it. 

It's funny that it cost so much, and with just a little effort it could have been so much better.

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53 minutes ago, The Brahan Seer said:

Sorry @RaidenHUN you misunderstood what i meant. What I was meaning is that you were looking at the V12 HT to T4 (which I compared loosely to a hot hatch) to Master (which I compared loosely to a sedan) because the characteristics of these EUC's are quite different.

If you want nimble look at your original choices or lighter wheels, If you want less nimble [harder to ride (as a learner*)] go for the Master. Good luck in your search whatever you get will be life changing and a lot of fun. 

An other analogy is if you start out going to the gym do you jump straight onto the heavy weights, or work up to it. You can do either but working up to it is much easier.

* in regards to the weight. Although nimbler lighter wheels can be harder to learn the basics too. But a lot easier on the leg muscles.

Yeah, I wait and see. 

No Im also considering the Sherman S, which seems to be a good alternative to the Master with much better quality, but so far no info on that one. Honeslty I would rather have a powerful 16-18" wheel with suspension and proper quality but that wheel doesnt exist yet. 

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2 hours ago, EMA said:

the perfect wheel do not exist, best thing is focus on your type of riding.

Master and Sherman-S are completely different wheels for different purpose, comparing them is not a good idea 

 

The Sherman S based on specs seems like a long range road wheel. But in the videos they seems to use it mostly for jumps and off-road. 

So I suppose it's good for both. (though I wouldn't jump with it). 

I prefer the dimension and size of the Master though. 

Edited by RaidenHUN
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2 minutes ago, RaidenHUN said:

The Sherman S based on specs seems like a long range road wheel. But in the videos they seems to use it mostly for jumps and off-road. 

So I suppose it's good for both. (though I wouldn't jump with it). 

off-road, rocks, jumps and stairs is the new EUC standard test according to china......even when the product is a 44kg street cruiser :rolleyes::lol:
 

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14 minutes ago, EMA said:

off-road, rocks, jumps and stairs is the new EUC standard test according to china......even when the product is a 44kg street cruiser :rolleyes::lol:
 

It’s all about the STAIRS!!! Walking down the stairs is so last year 🤣

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Soo. Got the Master today. A supershort first ride of 15minutes.

Then a short brake. Turned off the wheel for 30min. Then rode down a 3 step stairs and now the fucking light and display does not work anymore. Not sure if it worked before the stairs or if it stopped working after. 

Piece if garbage. 

Edited by EUCzero
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31 minutes ago, EUCzero said:

Soo. Got the Master today. A supershort first ride of 15minutes.

Then a short brake. Turned off the wheel for 30min. Then rode down a 3 step stairs and now the fucking light and display does not work anymore. Not sure if it worked before the stairs or if it stopped working after. 

Piece if garbage. 

i agree could be a simple connector, open the top part and check, super easy

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Wondering if you guys had any input.

 

Got my master about a week ago and took a fall because of wobbles. Slight scrapes everywhere, nothing too bad. However, the display won't turn on ( or give off any sounds ) and the wheel doesn't balance. There is resistance when turning the wheel ( despite being off ), but it sounds like the BMS buzzer is going off when two packs are connected in parallel. I assumed a blown mosfet on the board because of the resistance, but everything seems near pristine when I opened the wheel up.

Is it normal for the BMS buzzer to go off solely from the board failing (if that's what the issue is) or is the issue related to the batteries? All voltages read as normal as well.

I have a new board coming in from my distributor, but was hoping there might be something I can do to get the wheel up and running before then.

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1 hour ago, EUCzero said:

Soo. Got the Master today. A supershort first ride of 15minutes.

Then a short brake. Turned off the wheel for 30min. Then rode down a 3 step stairs and now the fucking light and display does not work anymore. Not sure if it worked before the stairs or if it stopped working after. 

Piece if garbage. 

Certainly sounds like a connector. Dispirited to hear this - yours is almost certainly from the same batch as mine, and is not the first of the connectivity issues found in these machines. Mine is 2 days away and I have read enough on this forum to feel I will have to do not quite a full tear-down but at least some manual inspection of all the electronics into and out of the board before I actually get on it.

There is a known issue with the screen not working in colder temperatures, and the screen does not share connectors with the light, so this may be 2 separate issues. Also check your light hasn't failed because the cable supplying it got crushed by nearby hardware.

What was the temp on this ride ?

Edited by Cerbera
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4 hours ago, Cerbera said:

Certainly sounds like a connector. Dispirited to hear this - yours is almost certainly from the same batch as mine, and is not the first of the connectivity issues found in these machines. Mine is 2 days away and I have read enough on this forum to feel I will have to do not quite a full tear-down but at least some manual inspection of all the electronics into and out of the board before I actually get on it.

There is a known issue with the screen not working in colder temperatures, and the screen does not share connectors with the light, so this may be 2 separate issues. Also check your light hasn't failed because the cable supplying it got crushed by nearby hardware.

What was the temp on this ride ?

Yep, mines a week out and my new wheel excitement has turned to concern. Something says cancel but I can’t do it after waiting this long.

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45 minutes ago, UtahRider said:

Yep, mines a week out and my new wheel excitement has turned to concern. Something says cancel but I can’t do it after waiting this long.

Yeah I couldn't cancel either, though I got as far as picking up the phone once, shortly after seeing that motor phase wire just fall off its connector in the Ecodrift teardown !

But hey, they can't ALL be like that, forewarned is forearmed, and I hope my pre-ride checks and plans to mitigate its weakest areas (metal plates / bumper strip all over battery packs etc) will mitigate a lot of the concerns. Yes, we shouldn't have to etc etc, but we evidently DO have to, and that is apparently the price we pay to get the 'Begode feeling' that nobody else quite delivers. I also recognize there is another type of 'Begode feeling' although less exclusive to them; the sense of crushing disappointment when it goes wrong or has to have parts swapped, but at least I got mine through a decent dealer who should be able to help in that last case...

If we get lucky with the builds we get it's maximum win, and one of the most exciting EUCs ever built, so after much to-ing and fro-ing I left my order in too, and time will if tell I did the right thing !! I do feel slightly guilty that not cancelling is not exactly 'doing my bit' to send a message to Gotway that they need to start raising their build game ! I could have hung on for the InMotion V13, which certainly seems the safer option right now, but I just don't need to pay that much for a wheel that is so heavy I could barely lift it, and that could drag me down a cliffside after it !

And talking of being dragged down cliffs - that's my other 'secret sauce' plan for the master - that is gonna get leashed to me, because I have a sneaking feeling that all the hardcore damages that impact that machine when we come off it, happen when it is free to go merrily bouncing and spinning down the road destroying itself in the process. A leash is going to arrest that shit in fairly short order, hopefully before it dies, and hopefully without clubbing me to death in the process ! I may start another thread on how long and elastic people think tethers should be...

All I can really say is 'best of luck to you and me both' !

 

Edited by Cerbera
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1 hour ago, Cerbera said:

the sense of crushing disappointment when it goes wrong or has to have parts swapped

copium (in modest-to-large doses) helps somewhat. for a little while. at least until the next render is "leaked".

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Had mine two days (2000wh), done just over 50 miles.  
 

Today I did a combination of mostly flat muddy trails and fast road, did 33 miles and got back with 19%.  It’s a good wheel in my opinion, I’m using stock pads which aren’t ideal for my riding however I still like it.  

I’m not doing stairs, just seems like I would be speeding up the possibility of issues down the line.  

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So regarding my problem with display and light that stopped working.
Some told me they had the same problem. Called it a bug, and that freespinning usually solved the problem. Well not for me. But connecting the charger did. So it worked until I used the lift button. Then lights and display died again. But started working after laying the wheel on the side and up again.
Then it happened again and again. Some times 45deg cutout would fix it, sometimes lift button, sometimes restarting the wheel. Sometimes only lights come back on first, then display later.

This is bugging me a lot.

Next problem. The slider system or something else have LOTS of "slack". Clonking and and complaining on each pebble and rock I ride over. And I can really feel it as well. Must be more than 1cm "slack" when pushing the wheel forward and back. 

The suspension feels like changing dampening while riding. I can be all happy, then suddenly half way in the ride it changes and hits hard "clonking" when topping out. Even on very small bumps.

Bottoming out. Well. Everyone knows this already. There is no progressive dampening. If it starts moving, it moves all the way. Very strange and annoying. Doing stairs is even more comfortable on my MSX as it will NOT bottom out in the end of the stairs.


The box for the controller...... hahahahahaha. What is even the point. It is like someone started making it watertight. Then stopped half way and just put some foam and a flat lid over it. Like the engineer responsible just left the office for lunch, and it went into production before he came back from lunch to finish the design.

 

I feel sorry for KingSong. Because they actually put some effort into all the details. I had a look at the s22 today. I am sorry they had one fire, bad mosfets, and now motor problems. Because they at least try for real. Begode just dont give a shit.

My master is probably the last Gotway/begode EUC I buy. 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by EUCzero
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6 hours ago, EUCzero said:

So regarding my problem with display and light that stopped working.
Some told me they had the same problem. Called it a bug, and that freespinning usually solved the problem. Well not for me. But connecting the charger did. So it worked until I used the lift button. Then lights and display died again. But started working after laying the wheel on the side and up again.
Then it happened again and again. Some times 45deg cutout would fix it, sometimes lift button, sometimes restarting the wheel. Sometimes only lights come back on first, then display later.

This is bugging me a lot.

Next problem. The slider system or something else have LOTS of "slack". Clonking and and complaining on each pebble and rock I ride over. And I can really feel it as well. Must be more than 1cm "slack" when pushing the wheel forward and back. 

The suspension feels like changing dampening while riding. I can be all happy, then suddenly half way in the ride it changes and hits hard "clonking" when topping out. Even on very small bumps.

Bottoming out. Well. Everyone knows this already. There is no progressive dampening. If it starts moving, it moves all the way. Very strange and annoying. Doing stairs is even more comfortable on my MSX as it will NOT bottom out in the end of the stairs.


The box for the controller...... hahahahahaha. What is even the point. It is like someone started making it watertight. Then stopped half way and just put some foam and a flat lid over it. Like the engineer responsible just left the office for lunch, and it went into production before he came back from lunch to finish the design.

 

I feel sorry for KingSong. Because they actually put some effort into all the details. I had a look at the s22 today. I am sorry they had one fire, bad mosfets, and now motor problems. Because they at least try for real. Begode just dont give a shit.

My master is probably the last Gotway/begode EUC I buy. 

 

 

 

 

 

Hey, from what I gathered from the latest Master Pro review, the issue with display and headlights is related to temperature. Anything below 20 C means problems with display and headlights for Masters

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8 hours ago, Constantine said:

Hey, from what I gathered from the latest Master Pro review, the issue with display and headlights is related to temperature. Anything below 20 C means problems with display and headlights for Masters

This is very interesting. Because yesterday, it did not work if the wheel wast resting off for some time... Then after riding a but, heating it up, I could get it working again by resetting the wheel. But every time it had become colder it would not work. Thank you. Is it ALL wheels or just some?
 

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