meepmeepmayer

You must be a slower rider. That mirror looks like it has huge wind resistance at faster speeds.

Wow! You're not going to miss anything behind you with this monster. Isn't that a bit heavy though?

Exactly! Yes. I wonder if "V11" is just a number or means anything more.

I think this is just a cheaper option for people who can't afford the 16X. Or maybe a way for them to use their 2000W motors now that the 18XL switched to the 2200W like the 16X.

Short answer: Yes, get the V10F instead! Long answer: It depends on the details (what do you want to do with the wheel, does it have to be easily carryable?), but ... most likely you should get the V10F instead!

Everyone: Please do make new topics if you want to! Don't feel you need to hold back. In doubt, it's always better if a new topic is created and information is visible for newer members (even if it is repeated, which isn't even bad in itself), than only having that information hidden in some long ass unrelated topic where nobody can find it later. @Stillhart Rightly you already did create your own topic later - 16XS discussion can be continued there:

There aren't many differences, but the differences make the 16XS quite unattractive in my opinion. I say: probably best to get the full 16X or something else. Even if you put a second battery in later, check how much that costs. Probably much more than getting a 16X right away. Experience shows people say ""25kph/15mph is plenty fast enough" and then they buy 50kph wheels two weeks later. And you now already mention 25mph? You'll most likely want more in the future.

Funny they call a big 18 incher "V11". Doesn't sound much different from "V10", but it is! Can't praise that headlight enough! Finally someone understands having lights is not just a bullet point on a spec sheet, but they need to be actually fully meaningful and fully useful if you want to rely on them in real life! Looks like Inmotion has a real game changer coming! Didn't expect that! I sure hope this lights a fire under KS and GW's asses.

As @Chriull explained, it's just different algorithms for computing the battery percentage from the battery voltage. Voltage is the measurable physical state of the battery, but you can interpret differently how much percent battery that is supposed to be. E.g. is 50% battery the middle voltage between full and empty, or is 50% battery when you have as much range left (in real life) as you have used? Or is it something else? Because these are not the same due to the nonlinear battery discharge behavior. So app makers have some leeway interpreting the battery voltage into a percentage. EUC World even lets you choose different algorithms, not sure about DarknessBot. Some wheels also have nonstandard voltages which the app needs to interpret correctly.

I don't see it. Seems just like a regular bulb-y shell design.

Is that a proper back light?! "Automobile level" is exactly what I needed to hear!! And with a proper mudguard! If the rest of the wheel is such an improvement to the current state of things, this will be killer. Finally someone considers what the point of the various wheel parts is in the first place! Took only 5 years

It's always a good idea to buy a wheel Unless you really need the money otherwise. (Btw I took the liberty and fixed the title.)

Can't wait to see the new design!

Nice! Now you'll have to wait - the seller is European, but this is a China import. But since you're quarantined anyways (can people go out alone for sport an leisure in Austria like here in Bavaria?), you have something extra nice to look forward when the quarantine is over

I have no experience with these shops in particular. There are quite a number of shops in Europe, so comparing prices is worth it. Others would be https://www.1radwerkstatt.de/ or https://eunicycles.eu/en/ for example. Just google for the model you want.

It's such a shame that this isn't an official model - it's brilliant. A "small" wheel (nowadays), so it's light and nimble, but with great range.

Some people have theirs coming in. You should be seeing some reviews and impressions in April (if delivery from China isn't interrupted due to the virus). It's an unofficial mod, the only difference to the normal Tesla 2 is the battery (it literally just replaces each 18650 cell with a 21700 cell). Weight should be about 1.6kg more than the normal Tesla (it's 80 cells, with 70g instead of 50g per cell - so 80*20g = 1.6kg more). Real range is 1480/1020 = 1.45 times that of the regular Tesla Charge time, you can do an estimate: 460Wh more, at the standard 1.5A of the 84V chargers (74V on average) that takes roughly an extra 460Wh/(74V*1.5A) = about 4 hours more than the normal Tesla. [That number feels too high, but that's what the math says - I'm not sure.]

@EcoDrift has some pictures of a standard MSX, but with the new board from the MSP, as well as the doubled charging wires: click. Whatever that means for the MSX or a possible successor is beyond me

Nice post! And nice stable of wheels, no time wasted there

I split this into its own topic, you will get more replies this way. Welcome to the forum!

@AtlasP If you want some administrative posts removed after the fact (like this one and the ones above etc.) to make this topic easier to browse, just say so. Mods are at your disposal. Thanks for your work!

I took the liberty to fix it, but the original link worked fine for me, so I think the timeout was unrelated to this. But this seems to be the cleaner solution, meetup automatically adds your locale itself then (e.g. de-de for me). @AtlasP If the problem was that the original link creates an embed, this can be avoided by using the "link" button to create a text link instead of copy+pasting the link which creates the embed.

I agree that probably all 1845Wh MSXes are this 84+16 - doesn't make much sense geometrically otherwise (unlike for the Nikola, for example, where it's just three regular 100V battery packs). To be fair, the biggest argument to "just buy a 100V" is the time, knowledge, skill, and courage (do not underestimate) needed to do the modification yourself. Which you clearly have, but most people don't have (me included) Otherwise, one might just argue people can spot-weld their own packs from the individual cells, so any conversion would be easy peasy. So you certainly have my respects, and the result seems to work out great, enjoy your 100V speeds - Extra question (food for thought, because why not make everything worse?): Would it be a good idea or not to mix "real" 100V packs and 84+16 packs?

That's easy. With the voltage drop during riding, 30% no-load battery is where the ride ends anyways (battery beeps and slowdown under load). In addition, if you charge to 100% regularly (including keeping the charger in for balancing), shouldn't it be (mostly) ok? It appears that a lot of 100V mods are actually this 84+16 build. I'm wondering if the real-life disadvantages of this approach are overblown (like a lot of battery worries) and it is more legit than I initially thought. Maybe the future will tell more.

Some people move their packs from their old wheel to their new wheel. It can be a good and cheap(er) way to always have a current wheel model (probably selling with batteries and buying a new wheel altogether is still better, but who knows). As for the 650Wh (or 800Wh) big Gotways, that's simply with one instead of two battery packs. So you can live with it or put in a second battery pack later. EUCs unfortunately are expensive, especially for non Euro/NA countries. But there's a reason these smaller wheels aren't really sold here, who wants a super wheel with a small battery if they can afford two packs (cheaper than to buy later). Even Gotway no longer lists these small batteries as official models. But I guess some sellers can still request them. Btw. you shouldn't mix a 650Wh and 80Wh battery. Different cell capacities (2900mAh vs. 3450mAh). I believe you're not supposed to mix cell types like this if it can be avoided. A cheap (everything is relative) 84V MSX or Nikola seem good options for you. If you're already worried about range and speed now, I don't think the Tesla 1020Wh will make you happy (and I don't think it will do 40km at 50kph). The 1480Wh Tesla won't be faster, too, so you have to know what the form factor is worth to you (it is a fantastic "smaller" wheel with great range if that's what you need).