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EUC

Found 53 results

  1. Hi there, I read various questions on how EUCs are spreading in Japan. So I decided to share some pictures and videos from our group here in the Kansai area. Please ? enjoy! https://photos.app.goo.gl/otwk8fFTsSQbnyM43
  2. Today my Gotway Tesla froze seconds after I started my ride (with a fully charged battery), sending me on the pavement. It then stayed turned on but without stabilization, and would not respond to the power switch. The EUC quickly started smoking and that went on scarily for about 5 minutes. Eventually it made a popping sound and turned off. When I tried to turn it on afterwards it would make a little popping noise and the sideways alarm (and luckily it responded to the turn-off switch). I contacted the Aliexpress seller but they won't get back to me until at least April 7th due to coronavirus. I took it apart to look for any apparent damage and what I found is a couple of burned connectors going to the motherboard. The green wire looks burned, and I didn't take out the wrapper around the 3 cables to see if there was a short circuit. As far as I can tell the motherboard looks normal but I don't really know what to look for. Any idea what happened and/or what I should do?
  3. I just purchased and received my first wheel: a Gotway Tesla v2. It arrived in New York from China in 1 week. First Impressions: Riding it is great. I feel like I'm gliding on a cloud. I find myself questioning why I ever walked anywhere. I'm very comfortable riding, both fast and slow, but still take wide turns. (On a sharper turn, I ended up scraping my pedals). Going slow (walking speed) is manageable with a lot of hand and core balance. The bluetooth speakers do not have great sound quality (as I had expected from prior reviews), but are great for navigation or ambient noise to set the atmosphere. The wheel itself looks sleek and well-finished, albeit a bit clunky and oddly-shaped. The black pedals are a really nice touch as the previous iteration had unpainted pedals and looked like it had been hobbled together. Pictures The bumpers haven't been installed yet, but I've already taken my first mini-spill. Going slow is harder than going fast. Potential Issues: As this is my first wheel, I am not sure what is and what isn't normal. These are items that stood out to me, so please help me as others may have a better frame of reference. The box it arrived in was slightly wet. Box Pictures. The manual was wet, but there was no water on the wheel (perhaps it had evaporated since then). I'm not sure how to check for water damage. When stationary, the wheel periodically rumbles, growling to take on the open streets again. Also there is an electrical whirring at times (sounds like a vacuum cleaner). Also when riding, it makes a whirring noise as if it's an electric car (this isn't constant, but rather comes on and off at certain speeds). Please let me know if everything is a-ok! Riding is still great though.
  4. After doing it a few times, i found a way to split it open and remove tyre and tube in about 20minutes. Here goes. NOTE! DO NOT Drop screws down in battery compartment in step 1. 1. Snap of outer skirt, start at the top with the overlying part. Remove batteries (first covers, 2 screws beneath top foam and 2 beneath plastic piece at pedal height...2 snaps and a center pin to remove plastic piece) on both sides. Mark up corresponding battery and BMS CONNECTORS (i use a permanent marker with 1,2,3 aso dots on connecting cables/connectors but it rubs of easy so tape is better) PRESS POWER BUTTON (a few times) WHEN BATTERIES ARE DISCONNECTED TO DISCHARGE CAPACITORS. WHEEL WILL BEEP. WHEN IT DOESN'T BEEP, YOU ARE FINE. NO RESIDUAL VOLTAGE. 2. Remove pedal on non motor cable side (keep other one on for stability) 3. Loosen 3-4 screws for trolley handle on one side and remove all screws holding the alu extender on same side. Remove alu from handle by opening up and move away from pin. Then remove the alu extender Push the" half handle" back down in shell to stay out of the way NOTE!!! If its the first time you split the shell, remove the adhesive tape located right under the control board ( i guess it's there to prevent water from spraying on control board as shell is not very water proof) 4. Remove the screw that was covered by the trolley extender + same screw one opposite side. Screws from here on are LONGER, KEEP THEM SEPARATE (easier to assemble without thinking) 5. Remove four screws on motor cable side holding shell together 6. Remove NON motor cable side screws holding shell to pedal-holders. (crappy construction with fastening so close to each other, look for cracks and drill end of crack with 1-1.5mm drill bit to prevent further cracks. Fill drill hole with i.e. silicone). If wanted make bigger washers or at least replace the super thin non stainless ones with proper washers and screws with hex head) 7. NOW Remove 4 screws holding shell together on other side. 8. Carefully splt shell (lift straight up as control board partially slide into this half) part on non motor cable side and DISCONNECT the connector for that sides LED strip BEFORE removing cover 9. Ready to change tyre or tube 10. I find it easier to use one tyre lever to make first lift and lock it under pedal hanger making sure not to pinch tube when inserting lever (tubes are hard as f... To find and delivery from China 3-4Weeks so go slow) Then using hand to push down tyre to center of rim on opposite side or all around (where rim is deepest), using 2nd lever to bend up enough tyre to be able to lift the rest of by hand....or use another lever to pry tyre off. 3 levers = friend helps, but 2 levers worked for me all times. Then remove tube and the rest is a breeze (other side of tyre bead comes off easy) Change tube tyre or whatever and assemble in reverse order :-) I USE silicone to seal the shell halves back together to make sure water cant reach control board. It requires some slow bending when prying shell halves apart at next disassembly, but to me its worth the 1-2 minutes of slow prying (listening to the silicone crack open) to feel safe(r) in case of water splashes. If you want tape instead (or as well) remove control board after seatimg the two halves together and fixing them with screws. I also added some electric tape on edges of control board to prevent rattle as its quite loosely fitted. Don't forget to loctite screws at pedal hangers and screws holding pedal pins hopefully it helps, most YT videos remove entire shell and control board and DISCONNECT motor cables, totally unnecessary. Waste of time, where you can be riding
  5. Hey! Are there any 1480Wh Tesla owners except Marty? Or just V2 1kWh? What range do you get on avg while going 20-25mph and 180lbs? What about the torque or the max speed please? Could you please share your really own experiences? Thank you, have a great day!
  6. Hey guys! What do you think about the combination of 21700 Tesla batteries and 84V MSX? How do you think that will work? Sold by WRStore on Ali, so it should be legit, of course it is a customed wheel tho. Have a great weekend!
  7. I’ve been looking around everywhere and can’t seem to find body armor for the Tesla. Does anyone make a protective cover for it?
  8. Last night a friend of mine and myself changed the shell and replaced the motor of my GotWay. While put the pedals back on, we noticed that we have additional washers left over. We think they fit behind the pedals but just want to be sure. Does anyone know where we can get a video or diagram that shows how to replace pedals, shims, etc?
  9. Hi All, Looking to sell my Gotway Tesla 1020 wheel. I purchased it in Sept 2017 new for $1,450. It has a little over 300 miles on it. Wheel is in good condition with the exception of scratches and a few dents. I have added padding on the sides which can be removed (the dent in the third picture is just the padding). A magnetized sticker on the front and rear for placing a magnet light on (these can also be removed). I have an extra new panel to replace the one that has a scrape on it. Includes standard charger and I have the original box. Asking price is $1,200. I am looking to upgrade my wheel so let me know if you are interested. I am in the Orange County, California area. Thank you.
  10. I've taken all the great worldly advice and experiences on here and plumped to make the Gotway Tesla my weapon of choice. However looking on the different seller sites I'm now confused by the number of versions ood this wheel. In this case I'm specifically talking about revisions to the model not the power variants. In this example I'm looking at the 84v 1020wh variant. Figured this topic might also help some others in their journey. So can someone confirm how many versions/ revisions of this wheel exist? Amd what those revisions are. @Marty Backe i suspect you'll be a great knowledge source for this. As a starter what I have seen (not for accuracy): Month? 2017 - Tesla original rev1: dodgy electrics and all that other scary QC stuff Month? 2017 - Tesla rev1.1: revised mainboard Month? 2018 - Tesla rev2: 1020wh version introduced, black plastic shell changed to carbon fibre look all over. Month? 2019 - Tesla rev3: ???? this is listed on Ali by but I don't know what is different (see below). Not sure the battery source might be it??? 2019 NEW GOTWAY Tesla Detailed parameters motor:2000W battery:850WH/1020WH battert life:60-80km battery model:NCR18650PF/NCR18650GA max speed:55km/h+ No load speed: 68km/h max load:120kg max slope:25°(90kg test) weight:about 19kg Pedal ground height:15cm wheel:16inch Body size:420mm*200*563mm Speed alarm: 1 level alarm, 30km/h, two alarm, 35km/h, three alarm, 80% power alarm Also to just confirm am I right in saying that no version has a wheel cut off sensor for when you lift it (like the kingsong/inmotions)? Kind of annoying if so since they have the nice carry handle. Would be great to understand jusy what i need to check when i buy/ receive mine.
  11. Hi guys, hope you are all doing great and youre staying safe from the pandemic! This is definitely not the best time for buying an EUC for me, cause of the USD or EUR exchange rate being so damn high right now... But anyway, in the near future, I plan buying myself a wheel. I have already had a V5F, an 18L, an 18XL, but I had to sell them all while I was in need. Now, I am thinking of buying something cheap, for commuting to work or school and back. I would like to have max speed at least 31mph, I am just used to cruise at high speeds all the time... I was thinking about Tesla, but I am scared of the range being too low for me. I need at least 40km range for a range with cruising 30mph most time. Do you got any tips? Any experience with high avg speed Tesla range? Also I have just found an upgraded Tesla to 1480wh battery on Ali, I guess that is my dream wheel now.... Is there someone who has already bought it? Thank you guys, have a great day and stay safe!
  12. What is the maximum continuous current that this controller can handle? The MOSFETs are labeled as 100v, but I can't find any information about the controllers ability to handle current.
  13. Hey guys, just received a new control board for my Tesla v1 (bought August 2018), however some of the connectors have different placement. Anyone could guide me through which is which? My Tesla is 84v, 1020wh. I'm interested in white connectors only. Just so you know the fan on the old one has been disassembled for investigating purposes. Thanks in advance to anyone who could help!
  14. Hi there, I've just ordered this recent updated model. I'd like to know from any owner what are his impression about the wheel in general and the features in particular. I'm curious about the quality of the speakers installed on the EUC (I've not read great things in comments section on AliExpress) and the usage of the lift sensor. Thanks for your feedback.
  15. Hi there! (I checked a few threads but I was not able to find an answer to my question). I had a Kingsong 16S (V1) for about three months. My first wheel. And I loved it. After the purchase, I've heard about the new 16S (V2) with a few upgrades that include the lift sensor (that is IMO very useful). So I've decided to sell it immediately to buy the new version. I sold it for good money and the upgrade to 16S (V2) should cost me just a few bucks. BUt now I'm in doubt about this purchase. :/ Should I go with 16S (V2) or the recent revision of Gotway Tesla (V2) that includes the lift sensor too? What would be the pros and cons of these two wheels? I know the price is not exaclty the same but they are close. What would you be your suggestion? Thanks so much!
  16. Hey guys, Wondering if some of you who have ridden both the 18L and the Tesla can chime in. I'm coming from the KS16B, and I outgrew it speed-wise about a year ago but have been waiting for the 18L. I love pretty much everything about the 18L from what people are saying, but in looking at the Tesla, I'm wondering if that extra 7mph in top speed (from 30mph to 37mph) will be something that bugs me a few months after getting an 18L. I know with my KS16B, the ~19 mph max speed felt pretty slow within a few months of riding in bike lanes and streets, and if I had had the option of getting something faster (which didn't really exist at the time), I would have wanted that. Those of you guys riding the 18L, are you pushing against the 30mph limit and wishing you had the extra 5-7mph of something like a Tesla? And are 30mph / 37mph speeds relatively comfortable cruising speeds for each? Or is it too crazy cruising at ~37mph on a 16" wheel? My 16B isn't terribly unstable, but it also doesn't go 30+ mph. Last thing -- i've heard somewhere of something called the "gotway glide" which is supposed to be some ethereal quality that GW EUCs have that make them really smooth or something. Does this apply to the Tesla? And is it noticeably absent from the KS18L? Thanks in advance.
  17. PROBLEM l opened my 84V Gotway Tesla v1.2 charger as it was always feeling hot. This is what i found: 1. Inside of lid had obvious "overheat signatures" 2. Small Capacitors were too hot to touch (and 65°C one was bulging ever so slightly = had been close to pop), also the big choke was seriously hot. Also measured alu hestsink right by the ?mosfet?transistor? NOTE! Meassuring temp of components was made with an "air probe" = add guess-timated 15-20°C to the values for surface temp, making capacitors around 80°C EXTERNALLY in an OPEN UNIT that do not trap the heat energy. How much accumulates over time, i dont know, but it will be higher temps in a closed charger NO DOUBT Solution, MOD with active cooling 1. Draw around the active fan area and Drill as many 2mm holes inside that area as possible. Fan was placed right above the small caps and the choke to cool them the most (small 2mm holes because I dont want metal accidentally falling down as it could have if i would have made a large round hole). Make sure drillbit is SHARP (metal drill) or you will have melted plastic at hole entry&exit that is very hard to get rid of nicely (i know, i tried before changing drillbit) 2. Drill exhaust vents at the far end (by the ? transistors?mosfets? and small chokes) to direct airflow past all components including the big capacitors in the middle. I kept the output area a bit smaller than the input to have a slight over pressure inside. 3. Got a 5V 50mm fan (so it could be powered by a usb charger), cut an old usb cable and soldered + shrinked the package together. 4. Glued the fan with plastic based "sealant" (silicone would also work i guess) to make sure no air pressure/flow is lost in the "grooves" of the lid (air allways takes easiest way "out") and maximize pressure towards the small holes leading air inside. 5. Added a few cable holders + ties and there it is, working like a charm. RESULT Can feel the air blowing through all three exhausts, have yet to do a charge from low battery as the heat develops over time and then meassure exhaust temp. I do not think it will be very high as the heat was/is generated over a long time in a closed compartment (little jest energy per second, but a lot of energy in the long run) , so likely i will just feel a luke warm exhaust air, if even that, as the heat energy is removed instantly every time slice and is likely a lot less than what this simple convection cooling csn hsndle. A.k.a. it should be more than enough to kepp things chill :-)
  18. Hey everyone, I was wondering if anyone was interested in trading their wheel for both my Mten3 and Tesla. Both are perfectly fine, I've posted my Tesla on the forum a bit ago so most details about that wheel can be found on my last post in my profile section. My Mten3 is pretty much new, though I did buy it 2nd hand so I'm not aware of it's warranty status. It has about an estimate of 100 miles on it currently! It also has been converted to a tubeless tire, and it does has some cosmetic wear such as the side padding being a bit torn, I also planned on painting it. Now the reason I want to trade both wheels is I've been wanting to try out a different wheel for sometime now, as for my Tesla I've put 2,000 Miles on it. On the other hand the Mten3 is very fun to ride and cruise around with though I'm more focused on my transportation needs. If anyone is interested, feel free to let me know and ask me any questions regarding both wheels. I also want to mention that I do want to trade this locally in my area which is in California, I live between San Diego and Los Angeles for reference. Now for the trading process I'm wide open for a wheel that is 18in or similar in specs to what the Tesla has to offer. Thanks once again! - Alex (Seems more people are interested in buying the wheels so the prices I’m listing are Tesla - $800 Mten3 - $700 to see pics of both wheels in-depth send me a PM)
  19. Hy Folks, As some of you may have recognized....my Tesla has arrived on Monday! As always when i receive a new wheel, i want to nerve you with some of my meanwhile impressions and a kind of diary, to have a review over a longer usetime.... As Things like generell data of the wheels are covered in a lot of other threads, you will not find any technical description of things here, which are pretty clear. Just this: I have the 1020wh Version, the biggest -at the time beginn of November- and received the wheel from one of my favorite aliexpress sellers. Because of that nowadays aliexpress sellers are treated like padophile child abusers, this time the delivery of the wheel took as long as no other wheel i orderd before! Seams because of the intervention of a big European seller, all aliexpress sales gone done down the queue, with even the canceling of orders of one specific state..... I have an opinion of these aspirations to monopolize several markets, but for the forum netiquette i will take these for me this time :-) Lost the thread...aaah, no, because of this @&@€#” my wheel delivery even took 4 weeks before it was sent...plus the 14-18days normal delivery time :-( But now it is here, and what will i say....the first impressions are fantastic- especially for a Gotway ;-) From the outside it really looks like GW this time has put some effort into delivering a quality wheel, shell and overall it occurs just much better than the V3 or ACM.... some more: to be continued..... just in some minutes ;-)
  20. Coming from a KS16S, I'm thinking to buy this great 16". I know it's as not as carefully finished as the Kingsong's, that it has not the real light, that the pedals are a little low (I don't know if lower than the KS-16S) and so on. I've read and heard feedbacks from a few owners and they are almost enthusiastic about its ride feeling and experience it gives. I drove it for a few miles just to test and it seems a solid EUC, maybe a little bit heavier (in riding, i'm not talking about its weigh) than KS-16S but nothing I cannot get used to. There's one that confuses me yet. The quality of its shell. I mean the plastic pieces the cover the core of the EUC. I've a friend that months ago crashed his Tesla, not a big accident, and seriously damaged its shell. He tried to fix it with scotch tape just to "survive" for a period and then he decided to buy the replacements from AliExpress to bring back its EUC to his original shape. It costed him hundred of dollars. After a few months I think he had troubles again (I dunno what happened) but it seems the shell is broken again. He knows I'm going to buy the Tesla and a few minutes ago he sent me a message with the picture I attach: "Don't go for Tesla, it's a great wheel but damn it broke again in the very same place as before! I think I will soon go for another wheel, I'm tired to fix this Tesla!" Is this Tesla really so weak and cheap in its building quality? Or was my friend particularly unlucky?!
  21. Very interesting & simple explanation on how Tesla is reducing their battery costs. Upon watching this, then gauging the current status on the consumer lithium battery market via imrbatteries, it seems the market has gotten slightly cheaper now (with certain cells), and new & promising cells have entered the market, in particular the Samsung 21700 5Ah 9.8A 50E's, which seems to hit the sweet spot on weight per capacity and cost per capacity, even when compared to the tried-and-true 18650 old faithfuls. Interestingly, the top performance e-board makers like Kaly.NYC and LaCroix are now utilizing some of these bigger cells (20700B's) in their latest models. Seems EUC won't be too far behind as the costs go down.
  22. Hi guys Went out riding today, and approx. half way through my Tesla threw me off. I think its a blown mosfet, but I'm not 100% sure. 'Luckily' I had my GoPro with me, and filmed at the time, so you can judge for yourselves. Had to get a taxi home (48GBP/62USD)... The wheel didn't turn freely, but after taking it to work and disconnecting the motor from the board, it does. So I'm assuming board failure. You guys agree? Hopefully Speedyfeet has a board in stock, and I'll order a new one (doubt the seller, who I bought the wheel from, here in Norway has one, but I'll ask anyway). This thread helped me, so thanks to @Nate Bryan and those who replied to it:
  23. Rode in the snow for a few hours then it started to shut off when I brake. I kept restarting and I noticed the gyro getting weak at about the 3rd time It shutoff It wouldn't restart at all. When I press the power button now, it doesn't start and only the light ring comes on. Stuck.
  24. Interesting synopsis on the history of battery tech...
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