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Found 167 results

  1. I have a Ninebot S that I have added M4M hybrid tires. I take it to the golf course and barely can make 18 holes with it and relatively flat courses, although I usually can make it. But it is surprisingly gets pretty darn close to depleting the battery. Last week, I barely got back to my car with the device beeping at me because I was at 7% battery left. I'm hoping if I swap out the stock battery (236 Wh / 4300mAh) with a MiniPro pre-2018 battery (310 Wh / 5700mAh) that this would now comfortably get me through a round of golf. I have read a few places that I would need to use the bigger charger as well (i.e. the 63V version rather than the 59V version that comes stock with the Ninebot S), but I can get one of those. Has anybody here had expertise in doing exactly this and getting more range? I also understand that the app may not necessarily show the right information, but as long as I get more range, I would be more than happy. Thanks. /LesC
  2. I'm having a similar problem described in these threads. see context for all the details i have https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/7670-ks16s-stops-charging-at-76/ https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/15150-ks14s-stops-charging-before-100/ Unfortunaety i'm going to mexico for 10 days and wont' be able to troubleshoot. I've emailed Jason from ewheels, and he says it should be safe to ride but be more careful at lower voltage. I'm concerned my packs will become more out of balance or some of the cells might be charging beyond 4.2v to make up for a possibly bad cell (if that's what's causing the issue). I can live with my beloved 18s even at 80% capacity and going at a max of 16-18mph if need be. but if my concern is right, i should eventually open it up and diagnose. I'm a little concerned about dissaseembling it, but I know someone here probably knows of a good guide on this forum or video to look at to help. Do you think my problem below is one easily enough solved by a college electrical engineering student? thanks very much ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- CONTEXT I've had the wheel for 1 yr now, I purchased it from somebody who purchased it from ewheels, but likely the warranty is over. In my year of having the unit, I have charged it to "100%" two or three times (but im not sure how long extra i kept charging when the green leds came on), while mostly keeping it charged around 75 to 80% This just started happening last week, and I've reproduced the problem at least twice (after discharging and riding the wheel and recharging) here some additional information: 1) The charger shows the green LED 2) Connected via Wheellog App it shows 77% charged and 62.4V 3) the wheel itself shows 8 bars 4) I've checked it with TWO ewheels smart chargers at various amps and various % settings. I cannot get it to charge beyond this point at any of the settings 5) the Charger got to around 64.1 or 64.2 v (i've always noticed the charger is 1 to 1.5v higher than what wheellog reports) before the green led on the charger lights up and then it showcases 67.2 - sometimes 67.8v 6) I have not checked the voltage on the prongs of the charger yet. 7) i have not opened the device and measured voltage on the battery pack itself 8) I've charged it in two different places/two different outlets using one of the smart chargers
  3. I am selling a battery for Kingsong KS-14B, I wanted for a project but in the end it wasn't able to use as intended. Picture
  4. First i would like to thank @Seba for giving me the idea and sharing his knowledge without which I would not have thought of this project. Check out his thread first: Decided not to go this route after the news of adjustable chargers going rogue and killing several 16x wheels with 100v++ despite being set to 84v. Felt more comfortable using my tested and proven GT16 chargers which are decently fast and never get hot. You can use any charger for this mod, just install the right connectors for your adapter/meter. For those who might attempt this: Mains voltage is dangerous, even more so when combined with mislabelled chinese components. My GT16 pinouts were completely reversed despite what the sticker read, and the Lenovo plug was wired backwards from what is used on the KS-16x. CHECK ALL POLARITIES WITH A MULTIMETER! Do not recommend the first half of this project for the inexperienced DIYers. It's much more worth it safety wise to just buy a chargedoctor off ebay or a ready-made meter/adapter from a trustworthy source. So much could have gone wrong Parts used: Lenovo male cable for 16x https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/SGpXCDJXH GX16-3 female socket for GT16 chargers https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/dz4VdU8Rt Coulometer https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/qh7dWjVcX GT16 Charger (or whatever you like) This setup gives me 3 options: 5.5a fast charge, 84v, 100% 2.7a slow charge, 82v, 90% 2.7a slow charge, 84v, 100% I forgot to document the assembly of my coulometer as the mislabelled markings were pissing me off and giving me a headache. The next part onwards is relatively safe and easy to attempt. The GT16 charger has only one tamper-resistant triangle screw hidden under a sticker Trimpot was hidden under a glob of silicone probably to prevent tampering as well. Peel it off carefully. The dial is fragile and can be yanked off easily. Keep a close eye on the meter and turn very slowly and gently until you reach your intended voltage. My charger only had one trimpot which makes things simpler. However, note that many chargers have 3 according to Seba. Check his thread to make sure you do not adjust the wrong one if you have one of those. 82.5v: close enough for me. Put everything back together and its done! Now I can charge to 90% - my daily use option, or 100% for balancing once a month, or fast charge at 5.5A which is always nice to have when in a hurry.
  5. I just got back from a 43km cruise with my wife and a friend. I was on my 16X. Temperature today was 7C and then 11C. Nice and sunny. Here are the stats: Rider: Mike EUC: 16X Riding weight: ~70kg Battery start and stop: 95% - 3% (66v) (also for some reason my 5A charger didn't charge the 16X all the way to 100) The first 18km took the battery down to 50% and the internal temperature according to Darknessbot was 15C and later on it was 31C. Rider: Monika EUC: MSX 84v Riding weight: ~70kg Battery start and stop: 97% - 50% (56% after resting) Rider: Petra EUC: Tesla Riding weight: ~60kg Battery start and stop 100% - 50% This is the worst range I have ever seen but also the first time we are down to single digits here! I'm gonna try again later and see if it does the same thing. I expect at least similar battery usage as the MSX. My battery was down to 60% after 18km and had dipped as low as 47%. We were riding between 30-40kmh and then we slowed down for the remainder of the cruise. Anyone else living in a cold country with a similar experience? I might need to get my 16X a fur coat if this keeps up.
  6. Hey everyone I've been a lurker for a long time around this website picking up what i can for my new love in the EUCs and i picked up a Zipwheel 16" as my first wheel back last year and have used it for about 5 miles daily up until last month when i was involved in a RTC with a speeding motorist i managed to get out the way but i was unable to get the wheel out in time and it was launched 15ft up the road cracking the case open and throwing the battery. I have since tested the wheel and it appears both the motor and the controller by some miracle survived undamaged as the case seems to have withstood the impact although is now in a sorry state and needs replacing, however the battery although worked for the tests didn't seem to fair as well its landing appears to have damaged something on the BMS PCB (Picture) and being that i don't know what its for i haven't dared to try and charge it for my lack of knowledge in batteries and things i've read about them exploding or catching fire and seeing i have my baby girl in the house wouldn't risk it without seeking advice from someone who knows these things. I have since been without my wheel i have ordered a new battery but i would like to either repair the PCB in this battery or replace it as all the cells appear to be completely undamaged. This being the case i searched online for the same PCB so i could just swap them out but have have no luck in finding the board they used even seeing the model number on the front of it (A4-FL16s-DLC) didn't help me to source a replacement i have looked on aliexpress to see if i could find a different board to replace it with but i have no idea which ones would be suitable as i know they have ones for E-Bikes that would be dangerous on the unicycle, unexpected cutoffs and such and was wondering if any of you here may have had something similar or are more techy then myself who may be able to help me in sourcing a cost effective replacement board as i would hate to see these cells wasted Thank you all in advance
  7. So I bought a ninebot mini pro used. Short story the battery is dead, completely. I've taken it out and tried charging it. Nothing. Yes I know this voids the warranty but I didn't have it to begin with so... Oh, the infamous 4 red flashes on the battery and my research online suggest it's completely dead.. Does anyone know where I can order a replacement? Has anyone used moreformini.com before? That's the only one I can find.. thanks in advance for your help
  8. Hello, This message to let you know that I had the error code 46 on an ES4 ninebot segway. I did a reset of the scooter (brake + speed + power 10s to get error code 10, then 14) then the battery was gone from the Segway app... After crawling telegram I saw a picture with the batery opened and a circuit that needed soldering. The external battery is hard to open, but I did it, then made back the connection, and the battery is back to live Unfortunately, even if the battery is charging now without being attached to the ES2, when it's pluged, it seems it does not take power, neither transmitting it to the main battery. I guess my controller might be broken, but I don't know how to test, and where to test this... Anyone can help ? Here's the picture I did and the (very bad) soldering I've done. Hope this helps a bit
  9. Hoping someone might be able to chime in on what Ninebot/Segway uses for the BMS. I have a es1 with the dual battery setup however I would like to add extra power for range. via craigslist i bought two broken es1 and the battery packs look fine, voltage was putting out 35 on both packs however the 4pin which i thought was balancing leads dont put out anything on the multi-meter. Off the top of my head I was thinking just pop them in parallel and somehow disable regen but... since I dont know the BMS or how to tap into it i held off. open to ideas =) thanks!
  10. Hi guys! I have an ACM16 that I haven’t used in a few months, so when I plugged the charger to the outlet everything seems fine. LED light was on and when I plugged the charging port to the EUC I heard a pop and it tripped a breaker switch. The LED was off but when I unplugged the cable from the EUC the light came on. Not sure where to start. Anyone heard of this issue before? Thanks!
  11. Hi, I'm wondering what other 18XL owners' experience is with the 18XL in terms of speed throttling at low battery. My experience is... It's never done it to me... Ever. Granted, I usually charge it when it gets down to 30% (I like long rides so I tend to want to make sure I'll have plenty of range whenever I go out for a ride), but the when times I've gone below 25%...no speed throttling if any kind. The day before yesterday I got it down to 15% (idle) by the end of the ride, and zero tiltback our speed throttling. Even during the last few kms, (I was monitoring Wheelog constantly while riding), the battery ranged from 5-8% under stress, and dropped to 0% on a few steepish climbs, still no throttling. Is this normal? Should I be worried? Granted, on such low battery I throttle myself out of common sense (no high speed, yet to avoid bumps, etc), but I'd still like to know whether this is an isolated issue with my wheel or if others area experiencing the same thing. Thanks!
  12. Link: https://www.facebook.com/groups/GotWay/permalink/2477689168956057/ My Gotway MSX (84V) Battery Repair Journey Background: https://www.facebook.com/groups/GotWay/permalink/2465864426805198?sfns=mo As stated previously, I came back from a one week holiday and encountered an issue with my Gotway MSX. I realised my battery was depleting very fast despite starting my ride with a full charge. Turns out my battery has an issue and was unable to reach the full charge of 83.7V(as indicated by my own voltmeter). It was able to charge to 79.4V and my stock charger would turn green indicating full charge. Using my 3A and 5A charger did not “continue” the charge as well(both green lights), which meant all my chargers were functioning. This would only mean that one cell probably died somewhere, since the difference was almost 4.2V, the typical full charge of a 18650 cell. As I pondered what to do, either riding it as it is and risk deteriorating the battery further, or importing a brand new 20S3P 800wh pack for S$900(US$650), I realised I should check with the many reputable battery builders in Singapore. As you know, we have a lot of escooters in Singapore, and there are some people out there who have been making batteries since eons ago. I decided to go with Xoda, a custom battery builder in Singapore who has experience in building custom batteries way before we got into electric unicycles. I dropped him a message and, despite his busy schedule, he told me to just walk in anytime. When I arrived at 1100hrs, he got to work straight away diagnosing my pack even though it’s his first time working with an EUC battery. He found that one cell had indeed died and affected the surrounding cells, so 3 cells had to be replaced. It was a good thing he has Panasonic/Sanyo GA cells in stock as well. He proceeded to remove the BMS and remove the affected cells. Did a quick charge of the 3 new cells before repeating the process in reverse. Using nickel to spot weld the cells back together. Then he helped to put my pack together and gave it a new heat shrink wrap in black and then a final full charge of the whole pack. It took 1.5hrs for him to do everything and hand me back my battery pack. Back home, the first thing I did was to charge the unaffected pack on the other side of my wheel first before connecting my repaired pack. Once it was almost full, I connected back the repaired pack and reassembled my wheel cover and pedals. Then I used my stock charger to continue the charge of both packs. This is one of those times where I’m glad Singapore is a small country and glad that we have people who have the experience and know how to fix things at short notice, no matter how niche a market may be. I started my day at 10am, did a bunch of stuff, had lunch, and was ready to go wheeling by evening for a sumptuous dinner with my friends A big thanks to those who gave valuable advice along the way, notably Mathias Gran and Marty Backe
  13. Hi everyone, Does anyone have the scheme of wiring from 1850 cells to terminals (connectors) for IPS T130? It has three groups of wires: two is charge and battery “-“, the 2nd is a group of 6 red wires and 3rd is a group of 11. Something should be connected with BMS that is not a part of battery, but integrated into unicycle. The picture of similar unpacked battery is attached. Thank you,
  14. This is a short summary of information I collected comparing Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4, LFP) batteries as used in the Uniwheel with the wide spread Lithium-Ion (LiCoO2) batteries used AFAIK in all other brands, no-names, mobile phones... LiFePO4 are roughly about twice as heavy and twice as large as LiCoO2, and they have a higher self-discharge rate. Otherwise, they seem to have only advantages. They are safer, more environment friendly, about 10 times more powerful(!), have a very low voltage drop under discharge (i.e. considerably less power drop on low charge), are more tolerant to abuse, live about twice as long, and are cheaper per cycle. Sources: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/bu_216_summary_table_of_lithium_based_batteries http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/types_of_lithium_ion https://greentransportation.info/energy-transportation/energy-density.html http://www.batteryspace.com/LiFePO4/LiFeMnPO4-Batteries.aspx
  15. Dear all, My Inmotion V5+ does not seem to charge full to 100% as indicated on the app anymore. While the light from the adapter (that rectagular block thing) switches from red to green, when I connect to the app the percentage is always only 90 something, never 100%. Moreover, when I connect to the app while charging the V5+, there seems to be no indication on the app to say that it is indeed charging. Any help? TIA
  16. NDOH

    Explosion

    Dear All EUCers, This is my first post on the forum but hope this helps as a warning to all EUC riders, especially to those who purchased E+ in or before 2015 through a reseller, because apparently Segway will not care or investigate further into the case if it's not bought directly through them. Also, simply because Ninebot product lines have obtained UL2272 certification, this does not guarantee that it will not explode. I have been writing the similar content over and over, this time I will copy and paste what I sent to Segway last Wednesday (minor edits due to Personally Identifiable Information) to save some time... Thank you, Andy https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HZY4f_JJRP7TIymvoEtlwnwjcESeQbi_ ------- ------- Dear Segway, This is my second attempt to reach out to you. Hope you can respond as soon as possible. Below is the original text I submitted on Sunday through your technical support page. Please read and respond as soon as you can (screenshot of pictures below). Hope to hear from you soon, Andy -- Hi, I have been riding Ninebot One E+ to work everyday on it for the past 3.5 years in San Francisco Bay Area, and even take it to nearby beaches such as Half Moon Bay, Monterey or Big Sur when it's sunny here in Northern California. Today has been a very traumatizing and sad day for me as I lost my beloved 3 year old Ninebot One E+. Ninebot One was more than a leisurely device, but a major companion allowing me to live a smaller carbon footprint (don't have a car) lifestyle, my main mode of transportation and identity among my family, friends and neighbors. When it suddenly exploded and burnt in a vicious fire during non-energized state, I was luckily to be more than 5 feet away from it. I was extremely lucky and no one was hurt. This could have been much, much worse. I could have lost my right leg, I could have died or the entire apartment could have burnt down causing even more casualties. Please read on. It was a typical weekend--sleeping in and getting up pretty late. At around 11 AM, I took shower and had a breakfast. At around 11:45, I started hearing popping noise. Thinking it was coming from outside, I opened the door and saw but there was nothing. A few more minutes later, another pop. Then every minute or two, I started hearing the noise at a regular cadence. Then, my sensors became much more sensitive and started smelling something acrid. This is when I realized the sound--and potentially the smell too--was coming from my beloved 3 year long friend. My instinct now as sharp as blade, I knew I needed to do so something. 12:01PM (film available) 1) Before making any action, I felt strong need to document every single detail. I filmed 36-second long video to capture one more "pop" sound. 2) Being super safe, I first went to the power strip and turned it off, 3) then unplugged the cord from the power strip, 4) and then unplugged from the unit. ~12:03PM 5) I raised the handle bar and tried to grab it from the end of the handle bar as usual, but I didn't. 6) Instead, I grabbed the center of the handle and supported with my left hand under the foot pedal so I don't accidentally agitate the unit too much and trigger it to explode. (VERY RISKY) 7) (STILL FEELING VERY RISKY) I took it outside and leaned it against the immediate exterior wall I was able to get access to. ~12:05PM 8) then I started thinking about what to do (take it in? repair myself? don't ride and let it sit for a few days? disassemble and recycle properly? ~12:09PM 9) before I finished my thoughts--and my front door still wide open, I heard a bam and a small fire. Then one or two more KABOOMs with much larger fire, creating fizzing sound and burning everything the battery was wrapped in violently. This lasted for a minute. 12:10PM (photo available) 10) when the fire was weakening, the property manager luckily was outside and who saw this happening ran towards me to aid and grabbed the fire extinguisher. I knew I had to document this. I am thankful that there was no bodily injury to anyone involved in this incident; however, I'm still scared and extremely frustrated due to the life-threatening and traumatizing experience. Also, because of inhalation of toxic fluoride gases from burning Li-ion batteries, I am in distress and deeply concerned about my health. https://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/MMG/MMG.asp?id=1142&tid=250 For that reason, I am having to evacuate the unit and arrange temporary stay which is costly and inconvenient. Please give me a call at 510 634 9390 ASAP. I would like to share more in detail and discuss further. Thank you, Andy one more image
  17. Hi Folks, Looking for a v8 Battery in good condition. I'm currently limping along with a few dead cells but would prefer not to fork out $$$ for a replacement battery from inMotion. I'm in Alberta, Canada. Thanks, John
  18. I bought an IPS i5 245WH on 9/5/2018. I have been riding it since and enjoyed it very much! A few weeks ago, the wheel starts to beep constantly. And later on I discovered whenever I charge it, the charging light turned red and immediately turned back to green. It seemed the battery was no longer charging and low battery caused it to beep constantly. I contacted the manufacturer in China and showed them all the settings and voltages from the Android App. They said the battery cells are good, maybe just the connector was loose. I tried juggle the connector and no use. Today, the battery is completely depleted. I opened up the case, took out the battery, and connect just the battery alone to the charger and had the same result. I searched the web and saw other people had similar issues, but no definitive solutions have been found. I have contacted eWheels support as well. Just thought to share my experience in this forum in case it can be helpful to others or if someone has any suggestions. Thanks. I also took a video of the battery not charging:
  19. Hi I bought a ninebot z10 while completing the charging and connecting it gave the error "battery # 2: abnormal communication". I can walk but the app does not show the batteries and neither does the display show how much battery it has. I think I should be walking with one and half the capacity. Please follow the attached photos if anyone has already had this error or know how to help me from now thank you.
  20. Here is the parts list (total cost less than $10USD): 1. 2x flat nylon washers (about $1 for 6) 2. 2x flat steel washers (about $4 for 100) 3. 1x 6" section of 5/8" self-stick corner guard (about $3 for 4-8') 4. stubby screwdriver - BYOT See the video linked here and discussed here. The instructions are embedded in the photos. If you have any questions or comments, just ask.
  21. Hi - I use a rapid charger, with settings from 1 to 5 amps, and various percentages 50 to 100% My settings are 1 amp, 100%. My problem is that the charger doesn't shut off. Usually I'll plug in around 80% and I've left it on for over 10 hours waiting for the unit to shut off after a complete charge... The display by then usually reads: V: 84 A: .004 Is this a problem with the charger? The V10F shows 100% after just a few hours...but I'm wondering if I should leave the charger on longer or simply get in the habit of unplugging after awhile. Or get another charger... Thanks!
  22. (16/03/2019 updates in progress) Hello After more than a year working on my blog about the Mini, I decided a few days ago to monetize my blog, it reached more than 11,400 visitors from 115 countries. By joining affiliate programs with resellers, I choose spare parts and accessories for the Mini. I try to pay attention to quality even if it is difficult. I would touch a small percentage of a sale made, which will perhaps allow me to improve my blog, will see, I start with these programs. https://mini-j.jimdo.com/shop-guide/ It is therefore in total transparency that I announce the creation of a new site attached to my blog, called "Mini-J-S-G" (for the entire title: mini-j shopping guide) (cancelling) jojo33
  23. I sold a year old Inmotion V5F which worked amazingly for 2 years /1,000 miles commuting to work and putting it in my closet. Bought a new a SoloWheel Glide 2. Every time I charge, at around 75-80% the charger gets extremely hot and starts making a high-pitched noise which I assumed was an overheat alarm or could also be some type of whine. Customer support at eWheels is claiming this is normal...... For a test I put a fan on the charger during the entire cycle to keep it cool and surprisingly no funny noises from the charger. Has anyone else experienced this? Is it an issue with the charger overheating, or just a funny noise?
  24. Very interesting & simple explanation on how Tesla is reducing their battery costs. Upon watching this, then gauging the current status on the consumer lithium battery market via imrbatteries, it seems the market has gotten slightly cheaper now (with certain cells), and new & promising cells have entered the market, in particular the Samsung 21700 5Ah 9.8A 50E's, which seems to hit the sweet spot on weight per capacity and cost per capacity, even when compared to the tried-and-true 18650 old faithfuls. Interestingly, the top performance e-board makers like Kaly.NYC and LaCroix are now utilizing some of these bigger cells (20700B's) in their latest models. Seems EUC won't be too far behind as the costs go down.
  25. Hi, I'm new in here and I've got an issue with a dying IPS battery. Quick intro, I've been riding an EUC for about 3.5 years and long story short, after crashing and breaking my elbow on an IPS 122, the next logical step was to upgrade to a 191 😀 So anyway I've been happily riding my Lhotz for about 3 years and my battery is dying. I can barely climb a hill without the 2nd alarm triggering and I only get about 2 mi/3.2 km on a charge. I emailed some folks at IPS but they don't seem very responsive these days, so I have no lead on a replacement. At this point I'm considering building my own replacement including slaughthammer's 16s3p mod, cause the expanded capacity would be sweet! I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron but since I've never actually built a battery, I'm definitely concerned about the safety of using a diy battery. If anyone can offer some experience and/or other repair ideas I would really appreciate it. Or I might entertain buying a battery pack if I could only find one. Thanks!
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