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Found 157 results

  1. Hoping someone might be able to chime in on what Ninebot/Segway uses for the BMS. I have a es1 with the dual battery setup however I would like to add extra power for range. via craigslist i bought two broken es1 and the battery packs look fine, voltage was putting out 35 on both packs however the 4pin which i thought was balancing leads dont put out anything on the multi-meter. Off the top of my head I was thinking just pop them in parallel and somehow disable regen but... since I dont know the BMS or how to tap into it i held off. open to ideas =) thanks!
  2. Hi I bought a ninebot z10 while completing the charging and connecting it gave the error "battery # 2: abnormal communication". I can walk but the app does not show the batteries and neither does the display show how much battery it has. I think I should be walking with one and half the capacity. Please follow the attached photos if anyone has already had this error or know how to help me from now thank you.
  3. Here is the parts list (total cost less than $10USD): 1. 2x flat nylon washers (about $1 for 6) 2. 2x flat steel washers (about $4 for 100) 3. 1x 6" section of 5/8" self-stick corner guard (about $3 for 4-8') 4. stubby screwdriver - BYOT See the video linked here and discussed here. The instructions are embedded in the photos. If you have any questions or comments, just ask.
  4. Hi - I use a rapid charger, with settings from 1 to 5 amps, and various percentages 50 to 100% My settings are 1 amp, 100%. My problem is that the charger doesn't shut off. Usually I'll plug in around 80% and I've left it on for over 10 hours waiting for the unit to shut off after a complete charge... The display by then usually reads: V: 84 A: .004 Is this a problem with the charger? The V10F shows 100% after just a few hours...but I'm wondering if I should leave the charger on longer or simply get in the habit of unplugging after awhile. Or get another charger... Thanks!
  5. (16/03/2019 updates in progress) Hello After more than a year working on my blog about the Mini, I decided a few days ago to monetize my blog, it reached more than 11,400 visitors from 115 countries. By joining affiliate programs with resellers, I choose spare parts and accessories for the Mini. I try to pay attention to quality even if it is difficult. I would touch a small percentage of a sale made, which will perhaps allow me to improve my blog, will see, I start with these programs. https://mini-j.jimdo.com/shop-guide/ It is therefore in total transparency that I announce the creation of a new site attached to my blog, called "Mini-J-S-G" (for the entire title: mini-j shopping guide) (cancelling) jojo33
  6. I sold a year old Inmotion V5F which worked amazingly for 2 years /1,000 miles commuting to work and putting it in my closet. Bought a new a SoloWheel Glide 2. Every time I charge, at around 75-80% the charger gets extremely hot and starts making a high-pitched noise which I assumed was an overheat alarm or could also be some type of whine. Customer support at eWheels is claiming this is normal...... For a test I put a fan on the charger during the entire cycle to keep it cool and surprisingly no funny noises from the charger. Has anyone else experienced this? Is it an issue with the charger overheating, or just a funny noise?
  7. NDOH


    Dear All EUCers, This is my first post on the forum but hope this helps as a warning to all EUC riders, especially to those who purchased E+ in or before 2015 through a reseller, because apparently Segway will not care or investigate further into the case if it's not bought directly through them. Also, simply because Ninebot product lines have obtained UL2272 certification, this does not guarantee that it will not explode. I have been writing the similar content over and over, this time I will copy and paste what I sent to Segway last Wednesday (minor edits due to Personally Identifiable Information) to save some time... Thank you, Andy https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HZY4f_JJRP7TIymvoEtlwnwjcESeQbi_ ------- ------- Dear Segway, This is my second attempt to reach out to you. Hope you can respond as soon as possible. Below is the original text I submitted on Sunday through your technical support page. Please read and respond as soon as you can (screenshot of pictures below). Hope to hear from you soon, Andy -- Hi, I have been riding Ninebot One E+ to work everyday on it for the past 3.5 years in San Francisco Bay Area, and even take it to nearby beaches such as Half Moon Bay, Monterey or Big Sur when it's sunny here in Northern California. Today has been a very traumatizing and sad day for me as I lost my beloved 3 year old Ninebot One E+. Ninebot One was more than a leisurely device, but a major companion allowing me to live a smaller carbon footprint (don't have a car) lifestyle, my main mode of transportation and identity among my family, friends and neighbors. When it suddenly exploded and burnt in a vicious fire during non-energized state, I was luckily to be more than 5 feet away from it. I was extremely lucky and no one was hurt. This could have been much, much worse. I could have lost my right leg, I could have died or the entire apartment could have burnt down causing even more casualties. Please read on. It was a typical weekend--sleeping in and getting up pretty late. At around 11 AM, I took shower and had a breakfast. At around 11:45, I started hearing popping noise. Thinking it was coming from outside, I opened the door and saw but there was nothing. A few more minutes later, another pop. Then every minute or two, I started hearing the noise at a regular cadence. Then, my sensors became much more sensitive and started smelling something acrid. This is when I realized the sound--and potentially the smell too--was coming from my beloved 3 year long friend. My instinct now as sharp as blade, I knew I needed to do so something. 12:01PM (film available) 1) Before making any action, I felt strong need to document every single detail. I filmed 36-second long video to capture one more "pop" sound. 2) Being super safe, I first went to the power strip and turned it off, 3) then unplugged the cord from the power strip, 4) and then unplugged from the unit. ~12:03PM 5) I raised the handle bar and tried to grab it from the end of the handle bar as usual, but I didn't. 6) Instead, I grabbed the center of the handle and supported with my left hand under the foot pedal so I don't accidentally agitate the unit too much and trigger it to explode. (VERY RISKY) 7) (STILL FEELING VERY RISKY) I took it outside and leaned it against the immediate exterior wall I was able to get access to. ~12:05PM 8) then I started thinking about what to do (take it in? repair myself? don't ride and let it sit for a few days? disassemble and recycle properly? ~12:09PM 9) before I finished my thoughts--and my front door still wide open, I heard a bam and a small fire. Then one or two more KABOOMs with much larger fire, creating fizzing sound and burning everything the battery was wrapped in violently. This lasted for a minute. 12:10PM (photo available) 10) when the fire was weakening, the property manager luckily was outside and who saw this happening ran towards me to aid and grabbed the fire extinguisher. I knew I had to document this. I am thankful that there was no bodily injury to anyone involved in this incident; however, I'm still scared and extremely frustrated due to the life-threatening and traumatizing experience. Also, because of inhalation of toxic fluoride gases from burning Li-ion batteries, I am in distress and deeply concerned about my health. https://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/MMG/MMG.asp?id=1142&tid=250 For that reason, I am having to evacuate the unit and arrange temporary stay which is costly and inconvenient. Please give me a call at 510 634 9390 ASAP. I would like to share more in detail and discuss further. Thank you, Andy one more image
  8. Very interesting & simple explanation on how Tesla is reducing their battery costs. Upon watching this, then gauging the current status on the consumer lithium battery market via imrbatteries, it seems the market has gotten slightly cheaper now (with certain cells), and new & promising cells have entered the market, in particular the Samsung 21700 5Ah 9.8A 50E's, which seems to hit the sweet spot on weight per capacity and cost per capacity, even when compared to the tried-and-true 18650 old faithfuls. Interestingly, the top performance e-board makers like Kaly.NYC and LaCroix are now utilizing some of these bigger cells (20700B's) in their latest models. Seems EUC won't be too far behind as the costs go down.
  9. I bought an IPS i5 245WH on 9/5/2018. I have been riding it since and enjoyed it very much! A few weeks ago, the wheel starts to beep constantly. And later on I discovered whenever I charge it, the charging light turned red and immediately turned back to green. It seemed the battery was no longer charging and low battery caused it to beep constantly. I contacted the manufacturer in China and showed them all the settings and voltages from the Android App. They said the battery cells are good, maybe just the connector was loose. I tried juggle the connector and no use. Today, the battery is completely depleted. I opened up the case, took out the battery, and connect just the battery alone to the charger and had the same result. I searched the web and saw other people had similar issues, but no definitive solutions have been found. I have contacted eWheels support as well. Just thought to share my experience in this forum in case it can be helpful to others or if someone has any suggestions. Thanks. I also took a video of the battery not charging:
  10. Hi, I'm new in here and I've got an issue with a dying IPS battery. Quick intro, I've been riding an EUC for about 3.5 years and long story short, after crashing and breaking my elbow on an IPS 122, the next logical step was to upgrade to a 191 😀 So anyway I've been happily riding my Lhotz for about 3 years and my battery is dying. I can barely climb a hill without the 2nd alarm triggering and I only get about 2 mi/3.2 km on a charge. I emailed some folks at IPS but they don't seem very responsive these days, so I have no lead on a replacement. At this point I'm considering building my own replacement including slaughthammer's 16s3p mod, cause the expanded capacity would be sweet! I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron but since I've never actually built a battery, I'm definitely concerned about the safety of using a diy battery. If anyone can offer some experience and/or other repair ideas I would really appreciate it. Or I might entertain buying a battery pack if I could only find one. Thanks!
  11. So, I know what the Charge Doctor can be used for but I have no idea how to program it. It has one button !! I read this: http://hobby16.neowp.fr/2016/11/12/autocut-adjustment/ from the maker's website, but I'm no closer to knowing how to program the 80% (or whatever) cut off for battery preservation. I bought the V2 with two inputs, as I have 2 chargers, fyi.
  12. Interesting synopsis on the history of battery tech...
  13. I did a bit of prodding in the official Discord channel before deciding to post my issue here and such... Yesterday, I decided to see how far I could push my new V10F on a single charge. Unfortunately, I was quite disappointed when my answer ended up being ~24 miles. I'm at a bit of a loss for the solution, as the only thing I could come up with was that the li-ion pack may have gotten swapped out accidentally, when they were fiddling with the waterproofing issue. The ride was smooth, level, and paved for at least 90% of the trip... with the only exceptions being road crossings and a couple of bridges. I only weigh 160lb, so weight shouldn't be an issue. I keep tire pressure at roughly 36PSi, as well. Most, if not all acceleration and deceleration cycles were smooth and gradual, too. To me, 24 miles seems abnormally short, considering InMotion claims at least 50 under ideal conditions. Even derating that value by 10-20% is acceptable. Something seems quite off, when one is only able to achieve 40-50% of the stated range. Thoughts?
  14. Hello, I bought my Segway Mini Plus the beginning of this year in US. I was working there, however I live in Chile. To take it back on the airplane, I took it aparat - stand board with wheels - direction handle - battery pack The Battery Pack i took appart in single Litium Batteries and then spot welded it at home together. Everything worked fine. However last week I washed it with my Kaercher Hydro Pressure Cleaner, and I think I screwed up the boards, that handle the Battery Charging. Does anybody know where to get those as spare parts? Michael
  15. Hello, I have recently get a hoverboard for free. The problem is there is no low battery indicator instead when batery is low the board just goes off by bms. I have read about shunt the bms and changing battery but is there something else that i can do it is not problem when board goes of if there is some warning before. Is there some way to adjust batery low warning ? Thank you
  16. EDIT 2018: This is a thing of the past now for "brand-name" wheels (including 2017 models, and even older), but you can still overpower/overlean the wheel when really pushing it, nothing to do with the BMS Most unicycles use bicycles' BMS which has a overdischarge cut-off circuit (Q1) to prevent the battery from discharging under the LiIon recommanded voltage. It's a feature usefull for off-the-shelf bicycles' batteries but for monocycles, it's 1) unecessary since the mainboard deals quite well with voltage warning 2) utterly, incredibly stupid since a cutoff by the BMS results in a faceplant for the rider. In other words, the wheel's designer prefers to protect the battery by hurting the user!!! Many many users have been harmed, especially when the wheel is cold (under 10°C), since the batteries' internal resistance increases and triggers the cut-off more easily. Of course, not all wheels are affected by such incredibly stupid "feature". AFAIK, Solowheel, Ninebot, Inmotion, ie reputable brands don't cut off. Gotway has early versions that cut-off but its recent BMSs don't, since the cut-off circuit has been removed. All others do, if not proven otherwise. So they are dangerous since the probability of cut-off will increase with cold weather coming and higher internal resistance due to natural battery aging. For prospective unicycle buyers, insist to have a safe BMS, ie without the cut-off. With enough pressure from users, the Shenzen genious will end up repairing this horrible blunder. For those stuck with an unsafe wheel, the BMS cut-off circuit MUST be shunted. When touching the battery pack, if you can feel under the shrinkwrap film the big mosfet transistors, it means the BMS must be shunted. The idea is to connect the battery's 0V (B-) directly to the power output (P-), bypassing the mosfets T1 responsible for the stupid cutoff : see the dotted green line in the schematics below. (B-) and (P-) are now standard markings on most BMS boards, so any BMS can be modified by laymen based on this principle. You can see immediately the improvement by testing the wheel with strong accelerations, no more cut-off, ever ! Enjoy and have a safe ride. Below are some examples of BMS shunt. Some remarks : - no need to disconnect the battery during the operation - for Airwheels, only dismount the half housing on the side of the battery (the side without the control panel). - T1 is usually composed of 2 or 3 or even more Mosfets, so it's distinctive from X1 usually made of just one mosfet. - On most boards' layouts, T1 is marked as Q1, X1 is marked as Q2 P.S. For more pictures and photos source credit of modders, see my original thread here : http://trottinetteselectriques.heberg-forum.fr/sutra13862_solution-probleme-bms.html#13862 TG BMS. The T1 transistors can be felt through the plastic wrap. The plastic is scapeled around T1. T1 is made of 3 paralleled MOSFET transistors. MOSFET's drain & source pins are shunted by a solder blob. Warning, avoid shunting X1 Mosfet. The plastic is closed by electrician tape. A smaller opening can be made, mine is unecessarily big. TG BMS, with CMS Mosfet Dolphin D5 BMS. 3 mostfets T1 are shunted. X1 at extreme right is NOT shunted. T1 and X1 are detected by measuring the mosfet' gate voltage (pin 1) : paralled mosfets have the same gate voltage.. Airwheel X8 BMS. T1 and X1 are not easily distinguishable. When in doubt, shunt the two middle Mosfets. Recent version Gotway BMS : no T1 circuit => no shunt to do. It's a safe BMS. Aliexpress generic battery BMS (Q1=T1 ; Q2=X1) Another Airwheel BMS, shunt directly B- to P- instead of shunting the mosfets Another generic wheel BMS. Shunt B- to P- SML160 BMS. Don't bother with shunting the mosfets. Shunt B- to P- instead. Firewheel BMS. B- shunted to P- by a big wire. Route the wire like in the picture to avoid adding thickness to the battery pack. Note that the B- wire here is red instead of the usual black color code for negative pole, an occurrence of lack of care (other Firewheel BMSs have the right color, ie black) which can be very misleading. Edit 2015/05/25 : Q1 & Q2 are ambiguous, replaced by T1 & X1
  17. V5f doesn't charge or turn on. With shell removed and tested, battery indicates zero voltage (72v original, 84v charger). On charger connect, registers 24v for 5 seconds, then drops back to zero. Battery, bms, charger or sleep problem? https://youtu.be/JK-phwb74-4 Another Li-po 48V scooter battery registers 24v, when lamp connected flickers on/off at maybe 10 blocks/second. Problem/solution?
  18. Good day to all! Since recently, I became a lucky owner of Rockwheel GT-16. This wheel is a dream for quick ride and all is fine. But after I had to carry the wheel on myself hoping for the last blinking led i found that the battery indicators must be improved. In stock these 10 led indicators that can't objectively give you battery level information. On my previous wheel Firewheel indicator showed level and percentage of battery remain. So i decided to do same small upgrade of indication on my new Rock. Long thought and tried where to place it. But last moment i decided to keep original design and install new indicator in place of one of the stock indicators. I had to cut the body inside, replace the dark plexiglas with a transparent one, shorten the standard display board. Here is my result. Everything took about 2-3 hours + about 3-4 $ for the indicator. I bought it from Ali. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/12V24V36V48V60V72V84V/32845700146.html I will be glad to hear your stories. Who changed something in wheels?
  19. Hi , my v8 took a little a fall because of a pedestrian... since that 1- the battery indicator doesn’t show up anymore when charging. 2- the Bluetooth doesn’t disconnect when I turn off the unit manually. I have to quit the app on the phone for completely disconnecting. 3- I can’t turn off the wheel with the app anymore. has someone got those problems before !? I will probably open it and check the wire this weekend.
  20. Dear all, My Inmotion V5+ does not seem to charge full to 100% as indicated on the app anymore. While the light from the adapter (that rectagular block thing) switches from red to green, when I connect to the app the percentage is always only 90 something, never 100%. Moreover, when I connect to the app while charging the V5+, there seems to be no indication on the app to say that it is indeed charging. Any help? TIA
  21. This is the consumption distribution [Wh/km] I have recorded for my V8 over the last 2900km (rider weight ~80kg, all are round-trips). How to read this: I have been riding 150km overall consuming below 12Wh/km, 500km consuming below 14Wh/km, 1400km consuming below 16Wh/km etc. When I go from A to B on flat terrain at 20km/h I am at the low end of the spectrum, ~11Wh. Usually I am above that, because I have some moderate hills to climb (30-100m difference in altitude per trip). When I am fooling around practicing quick turns, braking, slalom etc I am at the high end of the spectrum, ~19Wh. I also computed the range distribution from these data, assuming I can use 400Wh of the nominal 460/480Wh battery. For example, 80% of the time/trips I am riding with a range of at least 22km, 50% of the time/trips with a range of at least 25km, 10% of the time/trips I could ride 30km, etc...
  22. I recently bought a Gotway MCM4 340wh and it doesn't seem to charge above 65%-70% (~62.25V) according to the android app. Even if I leave the charger that came with it plugged in for hours, it won't raise above this. The light on the charger stays green, so it won't charge further. Here's what the LEDs look like on the wheel when it is at "full" charge: I'm not sure if there should be more green lights on full charge? After riding it for about 8km the battery shows 30% charge left (two red leds) and it also frequently starts to beep when going uphill (voltage drops too low?) so I'm not getting anywhere near the advertised 30km+ range. I opened the wheel and checked the battery and it says 340wh on the sticker on it. Any idea what is wrong with the wheel and can I somehow fix it?
  23. TL;DR: Don't believe the range reporter, don't start a trip when the battery drops below 50%, and try not to push over 12 mph. Today, I decided to do a 4.5 mile ride on 50% battery. It was over flat road and the distance estimator said 9 miles, so I figure I was OK. It was smooth sailing for the first 3 miles. I ride pretty fast and my NB beeps at me to slow down, which I do, but after 3 miles the unit was down to about 25% battery and it I started getting a lot of beeps and tiltback way more extreme than the normal tiltback I get when I break 12mph. It got so bad at one point that I almost had to stop. I tried putting the speed limiter on, but it didn't really help. I basically had to limp home at about 3-6 mph. At home, the battery was around 10%. When I checked, the unit temp was 120F, which I guess is pretty hot. Ambient temp was 60F. I'm 6'2", and weigh ~230 lbs with all my gear and backpack, which is getting up there, so I think this is what I get by pushing the unit a too hard. So the big lesson is that the 9B range is probably half what is advertised for a person my size. -e
  24. Yesterday when I was practicing driving backwards (so many forward/backward) I got a voice from my Inmotion V5F: overweight, step off - and then it powered down instantly (good this was not happening outside training area). This continued to happen several times. Battery level: red bar plus yellow bar. Inmotion ios app showed 41%, and DarknessBot ios app showed 35%. my weight including clothes & gear is approx 85 kg. I assume this “feature” is correct if the weight combined with low battery happens. But.... I had over 1/3 left. Btw, this v5f is 1-2 weeks old.
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