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Found 178 results

  1. My charge-and-ride backpack: Conclusion: This was a pain to build. It's useful now that it's complete. A 58.8V (14s) pack would have been better... But I should have just purchased the ~$800 KS-Power device. The good: It adds about 20 miles of range, in my typical on-road riding. It also lets me ride at ~30mph for 60 minutes straight, something that I couldn't do previously because of the slowly decreasing EUC voltage. Efficient: Since it's the same pack voltage as my 84V EUC, the boost converter doesn't have to work very hard, doesn't get hot (no fan needed), and doesn't waste much power. Also, the backpack can be depleted to a much lower voltage than the EUC pack would allow (I prefer ~2.8V/cell), meaning you can make full use of its capacity. Flexible: The backpack will deplete itself in about 90 minutes of riding. After it's empty, the EUC will still have ~50% SOC, which gives me the option to stow the backpack (in a car, etc) and ride a final hour or so without wearing a big lump on my back. If I don't need those last few miles of range, I can stow the backpack earlier in the ride. Affordable: the Greenworks backpack is available new for about $500, then add a DC-DC, charger for the backpack, and supplies: this is about a $600 kit. Generic: no modification to the EUC was necessary. (84V MSX with 4-pin charging.) Relatively safe: (...for my 84V MSX; other wheels not analyzed.) Single-point failures during use cannot cause the EUC to cut-out, nor the EUC cells to burn. The bad: Can't ride-then-charge: There is no buck converter, and the backpack is the same voltage as the EUC, so I must connect and use the backpack at the beginning of a ride. If I use the EUC without the backpack, I cannot connect the backpack later in the ride (current would be unregulated). This is one reason a 14s pack would have been better. Of course, I can "take breaks" and stop riding whenever I please, as long as the backpack remains connected. Mfg labor: IF you knew what to do and had all the parts ready-to-assemble, this is easily 4 hours of labor. Add "learning about it" and some time for shopping, fine-tuning, etc and a week's worth of free time will disappear quickly. 15lb weight. Riding "unencumbered" is more fun... Details: Pack: Greenworks GL900 "82V" LG 18650 HE4 2500mah cells, 20s 5p Remanufacturing it with modern 3500mah cells sounds awesome for performance, but is practically impossible due to the very secure welded-and-glued design. The backpack itself is built to fall down the stairs, with lots of attention paid to mechanical durability: cells mounted in frames, crush space built-in, etc. It was splash-resistant but not fully gasketed. I added more holes for wire passages and my converter is exposed, so rain, puddles, and tire spray must be avoided. DC-DC converter: Yeeco BT900W 900W boost converter, 0-60V input. ^ modified to isolate its logic power source from the input voltage: logic is now powered by a separate connection to cell 6 (25V) thru a 5 ohm resistor to avoid inrush damage. (Learning this lesson took blowing up two converters...) With this new current limiting resistor in the logic supply, I might be able to power the whole thing from 84... potentially with more component changes to keep things within their ratings at 84V... but since it's working now, I don't feel compelled to dig deeper. I added RTV to secure the jiggly wire-wound inductor. I was unable to find an off-the-shelf DC-DC rated for 84V input. There is a variant of this Yeeco model that is sold promising a 12-90V input, which I ordered. It was identical to the "8-60V" model though (errors / lies in the online description). The input capacitor is rated at 100V, so the high-current path should be fine at 84. More boost converters are available for <60V input- a 14s pack would have made this a lot easier... but they still may blow up during power-up with the huge current that our big lithium packs can provide. Almost all of the ebay/amazon boost converters 400W-1800W are hobby-grade devices. Mine had sloppy manufacturing: dented capacitors, wobbly unsupported wire-wound inductor, cold through-hole solderjoints. The SMT soldering seemed fine. If you use one, be prepared to inspect it thoroughly, retouch solderjoints, and test it with current-limited devices (not battery packs!) before use. Plan for failures and troubleshooting regardless of which model you choose. Recharging the backpack: I purchased the Greenworks GC-400 charger. Charging the backpack with the 4-pin greenworks charger activates the balancing function of the BMS. Charging using a 2-pin charger (e.g.: Gotway) works too, but no balancing will happen. I like to charge with the Greenworks 4A charger, and then top it up to 84V with a Gotway charger before a ride. This final "topping up" is risky because faults in balancing or faults in the charger could allow cells to go over-voltage. Leaving BMS monitoring active using SW2 in my harness enables a beeping alert for this condition, but will not interrupt the charging. So I only do the "topping up" while I am within earshot. The cheaper 80V Greenworks "Pro" chargers are not compatible with this "82V" pack. Backpack BMS: The backpack has a microprocessor-controlled BMS, which includes cell temperature sensors and is capable of engaging balancing resistors, interrupting the pack output (except that I bypassed this), and interrupting the charging input (when using the Greenworks charger). The BMS is not 'active' unless woken by its 'command' wire. Pulling this wire to +VBatt will wake it up, but more complex signaling is needed for it to become fully functional. Balancing does not occur when the command wire is pulled up this way. I could not use the BMS main (negative) output with the boost converter- the BMS would set an error code "erratic tool voltage" and interrupt the output. So, I bypassed the BMS for the main output to the boost converter. Short-circuit: I was thrilled to confirm that shorting my 84V MSX charging port while riding the wheel is safe. My Gotway BMS will 'trip' and interrupt the charging input for excessive current flow, and the EUC continues operating normally. (My MSX packs were manufactured in 2019; other models may not be protected, so don't take my word for it.) Short-circuits in the boost converter or cables will open fuses in the backpack. At last resort, the backpack cells are protected by a 40A 250V soldered ceramic fuse at their only positive output. EUC overvoltage: This is prevented by Gotway BMS- if any cell exceeds 4.25V, the charging input is interrupted. It could happen if I were to sustain EUC braking while the EUC pack was already full- it would interrupt the backpack, which is good, and wouldn't let the backpack flow current again until the charging plug is cycled. I don't think cells runaway until after 5V, so this seemed safe to me. Backpack undervoltage: The boost converter is adjusted to shutoff when the backpack falls below 56V. The backpack's BMS can be 'active' (using my SW2) during the ride- it will start beeping if any single cell goes undervoltage... but the beeper isn't loud enough to hear while riding fast (it's more quiet than the EUC beeper). This opens the possibility that if the converter became faulted or misadjusted, and the beeper was ignored, it would overdischarge the backpack and damage its cells. I plan to inspect voltage each the backpack is depleted to verify the shutoff is working correctly; and the BMS should interrupt recharging if cells are truly damaged. "Backpack fire while riding" doesn't sound disastrous- just pull over and take off the backpack; fires indoors during recharging concern me more. Backpack overcurrent: Normally, current is limited by the boost converter's own logic. I set mine to output 4A (when the backpack is depleted) thru 8A (when the backpack is fully charged). But because the boost converter's output voltage can never be lower than its input, user errors like connecting the backpack when the EUC is at a lower voltage will result in unregulated charging of the EUC. In this case, I expect the 15A replaceable fuse in the boost converter to melt. Alternatives: The elegance of a 100V backpack used with an unmodified 900W AC charger intrigues me... because it avoids the custom converter hassle and lets you carry one charger to serve 3 roles (AC recharge backpack or EUC; DC charge-and-ride). Maybe an AC charger rated for 100VAC would still function at the 72VDC 'brownout' condition (24s @ 3.0V/cell)? If I was using a 100V wheel, I'd investigate, especially as the KS-Power is limited to 84V. Reference materials: https://photos.app.goo.gl/HB9NXyW5P2EdLDso7 https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1QuAEVpmo42wd5oesPe8hk3nEp1Djvz8Z?usp=sharing https://euc.world/tour/590376164096239 The internet helped me; hope this helps you.
  2. I bought an IPS i5 245WH on 9/5/2018. I have been riding it since and enjoyed it very much! A few weeks ago, the wheel starts to beep constantly. And later on I discovered whenever I charge it, the charging light turned red and immediately turned back to green. It seemed the battery was no longer charging and low battery caused it to beep constantly. I contacted the manufacturer in China and showed them all the settings and voltages from the Android App. They said the battery cells are good, maybe just the connector was loose. I tried juggle the connector and no use. Today, the battery is completely depleted. I opened up the case, took out the battery, and connect just the battery alone to the charger and had the same result. I searched the web and saw other people had similar issues, but no definitive solutions have been found. I have contacted eWheels support as well. Just thought to share my experience in this forum in case it can be helpful to others or if someone has any suggestions. Thanks. I also took a video of the battery not charging:
  3. I have a Ninebot S that I have added M4M hybrid tires. I take it to the golf course and barely can make 18 holes with it and relatively flat courses, although I usually can make it. But it is surprisingly gets pretty darn close to depleting the battery. Last week, I barely got back to my car with the device beeping at me because I was at 7% battery left. I'm hoping if I swap out the stock battery (236 Wh / 4300mAh) with a MiniPro pre-2018 battery (310 Wh / 5700mAh) that this would now comfortably get me through a round of golf. I have read a few places that I would need to use the bigger charger as well (i.e. the 63V version rather than the 59V version that comes stock with the Ninebot S), but I can get one of those. Has anybody here had expertise in doing exactly this and getting more range? I also understand that the app may not necessarily show the right information, but as long as I get more range, I would be more than happy. Thanks. /LesC
  4. The voltage on my monster battery pack is too low to charge with the included charger, is there any hope for the pack or is it basically trash? 😬
  5. Has anyone ever had a battery with a voltage reading too low to charge with the included charger? If so what did you do about it?
  6. I'd like to hope to see some of these ~500wh/kg ~1000wh/L ~1000cycle batteries find their way into EUCs by 2025. That would be sweet .. to about double the battery kwh of a EUC without an increase in weight. Expecting cost will probably be pretty 'orbital' https://sionpower.com/products/ https://sionpower.com/2020/sion-power-demonstrates-key-electric-vehicle-ev-battery-performance-requirements-in-its-lithium-metal-rechargeable-battery-cell-technology-2/ In the mean time .. I'd like to just get my hands on some 'test' samples
  7. I need help identifying a part or part number. I acctdently damaged the connector that connects the round batter Ninebot Model NEB1002-H to the control board. Here is the image of the part. https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=178876496920532&set=a.178876516920530 If you could please email me sinor2018@gmail.com that would be great. I tried google image search to no avail. I hooked the battery up without that cable and got error message.
  8. UPDATED Today, ! Hello it's now 4 month olds bought the 11 / 02 / 2020, I'll love it, it's better than my car ;3 Faster !, but not safer, i prefer to crash my car to annother car ;3 I was ridding and about 3 weeks ago, perfect weather, between 70% to 80% charge, i start my ride as usual. and on the middle range i notice the battery was low 4 green lights over 9 (I always end my work trip (25 km) with getting full battery and 25km more to get to the low level 3orange dots) i never saw my wheel with more than 2 greens leds off for my work-trip... and i decide to charge at work, witch was pretty fast only took 1h for full charge... strange strange... I do notice one side 'Outside right' of my wheel was a little more warm than the other, like 28°C ? and the other was at 20°c, not soo big difference, as hot as the motor run, "normal" [FULLCharging + stay plugged 4 hours ?] Then trip back home: 25km (total climbing 200m) and when riding, the wheel kick me off for low battery warning... (i could get home by pushing it during climbing) as an engineer I'm getting to open the wheel: wheel opened, 1 Overcharged dead pack 4.23v ?), and one "good"? pack with 50% battery remaining shown 3.82v... (it was full charged 2day before opening) I don't have that big time like kids to speak on, the vendor allow me to inspect my wheel... lets see what inside on next post ! as the battery pack is still under waranty, i can't unpack it to see what's wrong inside... but for sure there is at least something dead inside ...
  9. WARNING ** THIS BATTERY MAY LIMIT YOUR TOP SPEED ** OVERVIEW: More4Mini is selling a new 3rd-Party battery made for them by the OEM WorldPower Shenzhen World Electric Co. Ltd. “Extended Range Replacement Battery for Segway miniPRO - 355wh 6400mAh” Specifications are listed as: Model: WP-DMR-01 Configuration: 15S2P Voltage: 55.5VDC Capacity: 355Wh / 6400mAh Listed on the battery is LG INR18650, implying that it is based on 18650 cells by LG, The More4Mini website also states that LG cells are used, but could not provide the specific model number of the cells. So it is really just about name-dropping, and not about verifiable specifications. Somewhat useful given the problems with battery manufacturing, but lacking for a technical product. If we can assume the specifications are done similar to the original batteries, then the 355Wh / 6400mAh hour capacity would be when charged to 63V rather than the 55.5V Nominal voltage, or the 59.5V used by the standard North American Charger. More4Mini claims a 20% increase in mileage, but does not have any basis for this statement that they were willing to share. Based on the full Wh or mAh capacity, the increase would be somewhere between 12% and 14%, but the dynamics for estimating the increase are too varied given the potentially different discharge profile of the battery, and the operating environment variables such as rider weight, terrain, individual user’s speed/acceleration profile, enforced speed reductions by the MiniPro, etc. I would assume the stated 20% increase would be based on the 59.5V charge of the standard charger, but it is not explicitly stated. COST METRICS: Using the full 355Wh spec and the current cost of $200US, this works out to $0.56/Wh, which is an OK price, but not a super deal in terms of pure $/Wh. The Segway 310Wh battery, based on More4Mini pricing ($255) works out to $0.82/Wh which is on the expensive side. Keep in mind one is not getting the full capacity of these batteries if using the stock charger, so the real theoretical cost is higher. The actual cost would need to measure the actual Watt/Hours used during operating the device as all these numbers are nominal and can vary widely from actual use on the widely varying motor load of the MiniPro. Raw cost of 18650 capacity for a general consumer ranges from $0.20-$0.80/Wh ($0.40 for quality cells), and one would actually expect to get a discount when buying in bulk such as a battery pack as the extra electronics usually are very inexpensive. so a cost of $0.40/Wh is good value in a pack like this, but since it is custom with limited demand, the $0.56/Wh cost of this battery is reasonable. TESTING: I bought this battery just for fun, and to see how well it worked with the MiniPro. I feel the reported increase in capacity is not enough for someone to want to upgrade their battery, but if one is looking for a new battery or a second battery, then the increased capacity would be nice. It should be able to maintaining a higher top-speed for longer at the very least, and that is useful as I really hate how the MiniPro must reduce top speed as the battery is discharged. The battery weighed 1923g. This is roughly 110g less than a fully charged Segway 310Wh battery. The voltage of the battery when delivered was 57.9V. The battery is sealed, so I won’t be ripping it open today before testing. The standard charger connector is used with the threaded collar just as the original, and the connector cover is good. I like the charge connector cover better than the original, it stays put, and I think it will last as long. The battery did not include the small rubber insulators/seals/washers for the 4 screw holes, but it does have the recesses for them. This is unfortunate, but not a huge deal. There is a little LED on the back of the battery, or at least a window for one, but it does not blink or do anything when the battery is not connected to a charger. There was no light on the battery when connected to a charger either, at least not at its current charge state. I suspect the light is non functional. NO BMS COMMUNICATION. As expected the battery has no communication from the BMS in the pack (I presume there is one), with the MiniPro, so there is “no” battery information provided in the App. The App shows the speed is limited to 10km/h on my Segway, I’m using v4.0 of the Ninebot App, and I’ll have to check the firmware version. Alexey from More4Mini, said he was not speed limited, but did not use the App. I will need to do a road test to see if that is true, but I’m not very hopeful as I think the firmware has limited the speed with the battery. If true this is a real show-stopper, if it just means one cannot use the App when using the battery this is less of an issue, but inconvenient since you won't be able to watch your speed. tried charging the battery from its delivered state using the stock Ninebot charger specified as 59.5V (OC Voltage measures 59.61V). After 80 minutes the charger light turned to the undocumented yellow/amberish color, the battery measured 59.18V (charger connected), then at 90min it had turned to green and the battery measured 59.21V (charger connected). The ending voltage of the battery (charger disconnected, 15+ min rest) was 59.15V. So it would appear that charging the battery with the stock MiniPro charger worked as expected. I moved it onto a 63V charger, since I figured at this point it was best to have a full charge on the batteries. After 45min the charger had a green light, and I didn’t give it any extra balance or top up time, the battery measured 62.3V Unfortunately the road-test failed. Speed was severely limited I could not not ride it, it was just too annoying. Tilt-back would just bring me to a standstill as I tried to go up a small incline near my place. it worked ok for a 5km/h, or less, trip to the garbage bins, but anything more than that it was not tolerable for me. Since it was dark and starting to snow I didn’t spend any time trying different things. I never connected with the App after installing the battery, so clearly, as is pretty well understood, the firmware was limiting the speed. I used my oldest Segway but it uses, v1.4.0 firmware and I don’t plan to update it as I’ve heard nothing about the latest updates and I’m worried they will restrict the 63V chargers or may other annoying changes as they have done in the past. It is hard to downgrade the firmware and I don't want to mess with that. CONCLUSION: I’d recommend sticking with the official batteries if you are on firmware 1.4.0 or later as this battery is not really usable with a 10km/h limit (or possibly even slower before tiltback kicks in). Maybe someone else will test it with earlier firmware or More4Mini will provide more information on what is required to remove the speed restriction, but it seems to work the same as all the other 3rd-Party batteries so I’m not sure anything really can be done outside of changing the firmware. I guess this was a case of too-good-to-be-true.
  10. Hi, does anyone knows what specs are the standard bms for the 20s from gotway? I'm looking specifically at the max current rating that I need for an extra battery pack. thank you
  11. I used my 41mb of my attachment limit, sorry here the link to photo tutorial for disassemble battery (Im not making money with my blog , there's only a google cookie inside https://mini-j.jimdo.com/mini-tech-en/parts-repair/battery/ Update April 4th 2020 https://www.mini-j.world/home/mini-tech-s-pro/parts-repairs/battery
  12. I took a screen shot of the battery percentage on both apps. EUC World showed 37% and Darknessbot showed 54%. That’s a big difference. Anyone know why this would be the case?
  13. I'm having a similar problem described in these threads. see context for all the details i have https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/7670-ks16s-stops-charging-at-76/ https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/15150-ks14s-stops-charging-before-100/ Unfortunaety i'm going to mexico for 10 days and wont' be able to troubleshoot. I've emailed Jason from ewheels, and he says it should be safe to ride but be more careful at lower voltage. I'm concerned my packs will become more out of balance or some of the cells might be charging beyond 4.2v to make up for a possibly bad cell (if that's what's causing the issue). I can live with my beloved 18s even at 80% capacity and going at a max of 16-18mph if need be. but if my concern is right, i should eventually open it up and diagnose. I'm a little concerned about dissaseembling it, but I know someone here probably knows of a good guide on this forum or video to look at to help. Do you think my problem below is one easily enough solved by a college electrical engineering student? thanks very much ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- CONTEXT I've had the wheel for 1 yr now, I purchased it from somebody who purchased it from ewheels, but likely the warranty is over. In my year of having the unit, I have charged it to "100%" two or three times (but im not sure how long extra i kept charging when the green leds came on), while mostly keeping it charged around 75 to 80% This just started happening last week, and I've reproduced the problem at least twice (after discharging and riding the wheel and recharging) here some additional information: 1) The charger shows the green LED 2) Connected via Wheellog App it shows 77% charged and 62.4V 3) the wheel itself shows 8 bars 4) I've checked it with TWO ewheels smart chargers at various amps and various % settings. I cannot get it to charge beyond this point at any of the settings 5) the Charger got to around 64.1 or 64.2 v (i've always noticed the charger is 1 to 1.5v higher than what wheellog reports) before the green led on the charger lights up and then it showcases 67.2 - sometimes 67.8v 6) I have not checked the voltage on the prongs of the charger yet. 7) i have not opened the device and measured voltage on the battery pack itself 8) I've charged it in two different places/two different outlets using one of the smart chargers
  14. Dear all, My Inmotion V5+ does not seem to charge full to 100% as indicated on the app anymore. While the light from the adapter (that rectagular block thing) switches from red to green, when I connect to the app the percentage is always only 90 something, never 100%. Moreover, when I connect to the app while charging the V5+, there seems to be no indication on the app to say that it is indeed charging. Any help? TIA
  15. Hello everybody. I want to clear my brain of some worries and listen to input about this from other riders who may have more knowledge on this than me. On a group ride in late Feb, I rode about 45km and returned home with 35% battery remaining. Pretty good for a day spent going up long hills as well as down them, in temps between 4-7C Just recently after that, I decided to get some Silicone and made a custom gasket for my sidepanels. Just as an insurance against any future water ingress. There's obviously been some water in my color LED's because on the left side they spaz out, even when not set to be turned on as I ride. But I don't really care about them, and I don't even know how to get into them in the first place. Okay, so with that metric as my background, my following issue is this. I took my wheel out for a ride of about 20km the other day, and felt like the battery had drained substantially more than I was expecting. I will link a few EUCWorld tours at the end of this for anyone to look at. I didn't think too much more about it, and went about my day. Then I had another ride, and again, I was wondering why the battery level dropped so far down after such a short drive. These rides have all been in temps around 3-8C on a tire that measures around 1.6-7 bars pressure. Secondly, and this might be completely unrelated: Looking at EUCWorld, the battery indicator in the app does not update nearly as smoothly as it did before. It used to be that it would respond completely linearly with the load you put on the wheel, so that you could know if pushing it a certain amount with how much battery was remaining, to 0% (In the app, anyway) However, this is no longer the case. Now it updates very, very rarely. If that is related to my wheel or not, I don't know, but I thought it was worth noting, in case anyone else has seen this too. 20km ride from earlier today. 13Km ride from earlier today
  16. Courtesy Wired and their sister pub Ars Technica: The long-term goal is high-energy EVs, but the first stop will be small devices. By this time next year, Berdichevsky plans to have the first lithium-silicon batteries in consumer electronics, which he says will make them last 20 percent longer per charge.
  17. Hey guys, just wanted to put this out there as my experience with a recent purchase of a Segway MiniLite. I purchased a new MiniLite from Pharmaprix/Shoppers Drug Mart in early December (2 weeks ago), and was excited to gift it to my brother for Christmas. However not wanting to give him a dud, I opened it up (kept all the plastic on it) and tried to turn it on (by pressing the ON button). Nothing happened. I tried to plug it in to the charger and received a green light on the charger. After several hours I attempted to turn on the MiniLite to no avail. As others have done, I called Segway and was given authorization to remove the battery and attempt to charge the battery directly to the charger for several hours. Again a green light on the charger, and again when attempting to put the battery back on the MiniLite and turn it on, nothing happened. So I had a dead battery. Segway was informed and their only solution was for me to send the whole unit back to them (free shipping), and they would try to revive the battery. If they can revive the battery then they would ship the unit back (free shipping again), or if they could not revive the battery, they would exchange for a used/reconditioned unit as they do not have any new ones anymore. As I have read that bringing batteries back from the dead only sometimes works, and that even if it does work the battery usually has a lower capacity. As Segway tests the battery capacity, all that means is that I was most likely going to be shipped a used/reconditioned unit... This is supposed to be a gift, and I did not want to gift a used/reconditioned MiniLite to my brother. I asked if there was a way to pay the difference in price to get a new "S" or another model, but I was refused. It was either return the MiniLite to the store or accept (probably) a used/reconditioned MiniLite. Unfortunately the store is now out of MiniLite, and has no plans to restock. So there you go. All the travel time back and forth to the store, battery testing, all the calls and emails, and now I have no Segway at all (but at least my original money back). Just a heads-up of my experience I thought would be interesting for the forum. Others certainly could have accepted a used/reconditioned unit, but in my case that would not fill the purpose (Christmas gift). Your needs may be different. Cheers
  18. I'm new to this kind of project. I created a battery pack with 3x3.7v lithium cell and i connected it to a dc-dc step down buck converter and a while ago its working fine i can charge my phone with it but after a few hours it started acting as what you can see in the video. The USB indicator light is not running or it not stable. So Please if anyone can help me . I would really appreciate it. Thank you Very much.
  19. I am selling a battery for Kingsong KS-14B, I wanted for a project but in the end it wasn't able to use as intended. Picture
  20. First i would like to thank @Seba for giving me the idea and sharing his knowledge without which I would not have thought of this project. Check out his thread first: Decided not to go this route after the news of adjustable chargers going rogue and killing several 16x wheels with 100v++ despite being set to 84v. Felt more comfortable using my tested and proven GT16 chargers which are decently fast and never get hot. You can use any charger for this mod, just install the right connectors for your adapter/meter. For those who might attempt this: Mains voltage is dangerous, even more so when combined with mislabelled chinese components. My GT16 pinouts were completely reversed despite what the sticker read, and the Lenovo plug was wired backwards from what is used on the KS-16x. CHECK ALL POLARITIES WITH A MULTIMETER! Do not recommend the first half of this project for the inexperienced DIYers. It's much more worth it safety wise to just buy a chargedoctor off ebay or a ready-made meter/adapter from a trustworthy source. So much could have gone wrong Parts used: Lenovo male cable for 16x https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/SGpXCDJXH GX16-3 female socket for GT16 chargers https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/dz4VdU8Rt Coulometer https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/qh7dWjVcX GT16 Charger (or whatever you like) This setup gives me 3 options: 5.5a fast charge, 84v, 100% 2.7a slow charge, 82v, 90% 2.7a slow charge, 84v, 100% I forgot to document the assembly of my coulometer as the mislabelled markings were pissing me off and giving me a headache. The next part onwards is relatively safe and easy to attempt. The GT16 charger has only one tamper-resistant triangle screw hidden under a sticker Trimpot was hidden under a glob of silicone probably to prevent tampering as well. Peel it off carefully. The dial is fragile and can be yanked off easily. Keep a close eye on the meter and turn very slowly and gently until you reach your intended voltage. My charger only had one trimpot which makes things simpler. However, note that many chargers have 3 according to Seba. Check his thread to make sure you do not adjust the wrong one if you have one of those. 82.5v: close enough for me. Put everything back together and its done! Now I can charge to 90% - my daily use option, or 100% for balancing once a month, or fast charge at 5.5A which is always nice to have when in a hurry.
  21. I just got back from a 43km cruise with my wife and a friend. I was on my 16X. Temperature today was 7C and then 11C. Nice and sunny. Here are the stats: Rider: Mike EUC: 16X Riding weight: ~70kg Battery start and stop: 95% - 3% (66v) (also for some reason my 5A charger didn't charge the 16X all the way to 100) The first 18km took the battery down to 50% and the internal temperature according to Darknessbot was 15C and later on it was 31C. Rider: Monika EUC: MSX 84v Riding weight: ~70kg Battery start and stop: 97% - 50% (56% after resting) Rider: Petra EUC: Tesla Riding weight: ~60kg Battery start and stop 100% - 50% This is the worst range I have ever seen but also the first time we are down to single digits here! I'm gonna try again later and see if it does the same thing. I expect at least similar battery usage as the MSX. My battery was down to 60% after 18km and had dipped as low as 47%. We were riding between 30-40kmh and then we slowed down for the remainder of the cruise. Anyone else living in a cold country with a similar experience? I might need to get my 16X a fur coat if this keeps up.
  22. Hey everyone I've been a lurker for a long time around this website picking up what i can for my new love in the EUCs and i picked up a Zipwheel 16" as my first wheel back last year and have used it for about 5 miles daily up until last month when i was involved in a RTC with a speeding motorist i managed to get out the way but i was unable to get the wheel out in time and it was launched 15ft up the road cracking the case open and throwing the battery. I have since tested the wheel and it appears both the motor and the controller by some miracle survived undamaged as the case seems to have withstood the impact although is now in a sorry state and needs replacing, however the battery although worked for the tests didn't seem to fair as well its landing appears to have damaged something on the BMS PCB (Picture) and being that i don't know what its for i haven't dared to try and charge it for my lack of knowledge in batteries and things i've read about them exploding or catching fire and seeing i have my baby girl in the house wouldn't risk it without seeking advice from someone who knows these things. I have since been without my wheel i have ordered a new battery but i would like to either repair the PCB in this battery or replace it as all the cells appear to be completely undamaged. This being the case i searched online for the same PCB so i could just swap them out but have have no luck in finding the board they used even seeing the model number on the front of it (A4-FL16s-DLC) didn't help me to source a replacement i have looked on aliexpress to see if i could find a different board to replace it with but i have no idea which ones would be suitable as i know they have ones for E-Bikes that would be dangerous on the unicycle, unexpected cutoffs and such and was wondering if any of you here may have had something similar or are more techy then myself who may be able to help me in sourcing a cost effective replacement board as i would hate to see these cells wasted Thank you all in advance
  23. So I bought a ninebot mini pro used. Short story the battery is dead, completely. I've taken it out and tried charging it. Nothing. Yes I know this voids the warranty but I didn't have it to begin with so... Oh, the infamous 4 red flashes on the battery and my research online suggest it's completely dead.. Does anyone know where I can order a replacement? Has anyone used moreformini.com before? That's the only one I can find.. thanks in advance for your help
  24. Hello, This message to let you know that I had the error code 46 on an ES4 ninebot segway. I did a reset of the scooter (brake + speed + power 10s to get error code 10, then 14) then the battery was gone from the Segway app... After crawling telegram I saw a picture with the batery opened and a circuit that needed soldering. The external battery is hard to open, but I did it, then made back the connection, and the battery is back to live Unfortunately, even if the battery is charging now without being attached to the ES2, when it's pluged, it seems it does not take power, neither transmitting it to the main battery. I guess my controller might be broken, but I don't know how to test, and where to test this... Anyone can help ? Here's the picture I did and the (very bad) soldering I've done. Hope this helps a bit
  25. Hoping someone might be able to chime in on what Ninebot/Segway uses for the BMS. I have a es1 with the dual battery setup however I would like to add extra power for range. via craigslist i bought two broken es1 and the battery packs look fine, voltage was putting out 35 on both packs however the 4pin which i thought was balancing leads dont put out anything on the multi-meter. Off the top of my head I was thinking just pop them in parallel and somehow disable regen but... since I dont know the BMS or how to tap into it i held off. open to ideas =) thanks!
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