meepmeepmayer

Unless you're one of those crazy people who think >20mph is a perfectly fine speed for the mten3 - For those wo really care about speed with this wheel: 84V mten3: 39kph (24mph) top speed at full battery, goes down to 30kph (18.5mph) near empty battery 67.2V mten3: 31kph (19mph) top speed at full battery, goes own to 24kph (15mph) near empty battery That's where the last alarm appears. What is too fast on such a wheel is another question

It would have to be a new design. Or some serious side-panel magic with new bulges or whatnot, but that's more like something Gotway would do, not King Song. There's no space for more battery in the current 16X and 18XL. Even the 18XL is just an 18L where they removed the battery casing and (originally) filed down the side panel support struts to make space for the 1600Wh. KS basically had to be forced to do this after everyone cried about the 18L 1000Wh battery after it was revealed. I sure hope they updated their stance on battery sizes with the 18XL's success. KS doesn't rapidly iterate or throw out new models frequently. So I wouldn't expect more battery until they show an entirely new wheel or their next newly-designed iteration, which might be a while (or tomorrow, who knows). - 18XL: that "step" in the battery, increasing its height, is already a battery extension compared to their original plans. 16X: it's full

You are too slow. That's literally the problem. Speed stabilizes you, and you don't have that speed. Riding at walking speed or a bit above is hard. Riding at ~20kph/12mph is much easier, and this is where you should start. Just like with a bicycle, faster is more stable. You're too slow. 5-8mph with a V10 is torture. Also, looks like you are at the beginning of the learning phase. It takes time. Don't expect too much in too short of a time. But really, your problem is: you're too slow. Try this (with the V10 first): Make sure you're not afraid to hurt yourself, damage the wheel, or hit something. Wear enough gear for that, pad your wheel up well enough, and find a place without obstacles or distractions or things that scare you, so you are comfortable and relaxed. Ideally, find a nice, empty, distraction free (no scary curbs to fall on, no parked cars, etc. - it's subjective) but confined straight road. You can use an empty parking lot or so, but ideally you want something more focused and much longer. I assume you can stand still on the wheel while holding on to a pole or wall, and balance/pendulum a little in place. And you don't immediately fall off once you start going from there. So you can start riding from holding on to something, instead of having to step on. So go to that road, hold on to something and step on, adjust your stance if necessary - and then just go. Don't do it cautiously - commit and accelerate. Get up to 15-20kph (10-15mph) speed right away, without much hesitation. Whenever you feel you're getting unstable, speed up (counterintuitively, braking makes it worse). Don't be afraid to lean in when starting - the wheel is powerful and will catch you. Don't be afraid of 20kph or even 25 kph (with the V10 at least, a bit too much for the mten3). You'll find out you can ride once you're only fast enough. Probably you can follow the road for a mile easily because nothing bad happens. Should you have to run off, do not try to catch the wheel, just run off and let it fall on its own (that's what the padding is for - your peace of mind to do that). And you can always emergency-brake by "sitting down" should you need to stop quickly. But you won't be that fast, so all you need to do is keep riding fast enough so you're stable and not so fast you get scared. Going straight and fast is easy, so start with that. Then comes doing curves, free-mounting (though you can do the thing above with free-mounting instead of starting from a pole), and finally you can start fast and then gradually slow down and see how slow you can go before you get instable (because going slow is hard). The V10 is a heavy wheel and maybe (maybe) a lighter wheel (16S for example) would make learning a bit more easy. But you don't buy a wheel for learning, you buy it for riding. And you can learn with any wheel. And clearly, here your problem isn't the choice of wheel, but that you are going too slow. Double your speed, literally. You'll find that you're a much better rider than you may think, you just started at the wrong place (low speeds). Trust your intuition and don't overdo it, but don't be afraid of (moderate) speeds when learning. They are your friend.

The only way to be sure is to open the wheel and check the sticker on the battery. Indications: Just have the seller show his bill/receipt. 84V charge port has 4 pins. You can go by weight, but the 512Wh and ~405Wh weigh the same (same number of cells, but 2900mAh vs 3450mAh). But if you find the weight of the 512Wh mten3 from a reliable source, it's another indication.

GX16 charge port max amperage is 5A. And Gotway's charging cabling is flimsy, too (they doubled it on the MSP at least). 4.5A to 5A is the max recommended for Gotways, you want more, you need to mod in more charge ports. 3A (standard charger) is probably a nice compromise between charger size and weight (not too massive) and charging time (short enough). If you need more, get an extra 2A or 1.5A 100V charger and use a charge doctor or Y cable to connect both. Or a 4.5A charger.

Those pedals have a better manual than any wheel🤣

Pretty nice for a first video. And with self-made music! The landscape looks interesting, are there some nice tours (like round trips with varying lengths) you can do there? Pls get knee pads and a helmet Another tip would be: consciously keep your hands at your hips (not in the pockets, but at them). That helps to get the hip-twist-control going instead of waving the arms around for balance.

Just get a EUC bodyguard: https://www.roll.nz/int/27-store Also available on ewheels. In general, don't try to catch the wheel if you have to run off it. Let the wheel fall on its own. Run off and care about yourself. That's what the EUC bodyguard (or an equally comprehensive DIY padding) is perfect for. And what a tether is counter to. Unlucky people have injured themselves trying to catch a wheel (be it on a tether, or just with their hands or feet) where a low speed run-off would have been a simple and completely harmless affair. Twisted knee, shin damage when the wheel rams into your leg, getting a foot stuck on the wheel and falling, etc. Pad your wheel up so you don't have to care whether it falls, and then do not care. Care about yourself. The thing will fall over on its own anyways. It's the safest and best way to deal with a run-off at anything faster than walking speed. (Of course, catching the wheel with your hand when you are extremely slow or standing still and doing some balancing excercise is safe. I'm not saying to just let it drop during learning like you have no arms. But let it drop if you have to run off it.) This is my opinion. I'm strongly against a tether, learning on grass, or anything else that is "unnatural" (and therefore probably counterproductive) when a simple well-made padding is all you ever need. As always, follow your intuition. If you just feel a tether is right for you, it's right for you, whatever anybody else says.

Your MSX or Nikola (1600Wh): 10.5 hours to charge from empty to full. Tesla (1020Wh): 7 hours to charge from empty to full. So maybe 6 hours to add 50% to the MSX and 4 hours to add 50% to your Tesla? More if you end up at or near 100%. No guarantees This is just a very rough estimate (the only way to be sure is to try it), but I guess you just wanted a ballpark figure.

Is it just me, or are the subtitles stopping at 4:50? Really awesome video so far

@EcoDrift's Picture article about the MSP. Typical Gotway build quality. Everything works, but you better not look closely at that mess. Some boards are screwed right into the plastic e.g. Maybe a revision 2 will be nicer.

Why would one 84V pack produce higher voltages than the standard 84V pack? Both 1480Wh and 1020Wh Tesla are 84V. This mod is literally just replacing each 18650 cell with a 21700 cell. They have a wheel of that kind in the works. More likely than not it will be a 100V wheel because they yet only built 100V batteries after the switch to 21700s, and there seems to be no 84V MSP as well. A wide tire also seems to match the direction GW is going. So you can be optimistic there

App discussion split off to stay on topic (on the topic: Marty's reply is literally perfect here and tells you all there is to know):

Gotway: they often show/release new wheels towards the end of the year or at the beginning of the next. So now. MSP is the first. A Mini-Monster (between MSX and Monster) is coming, and a lighter city-commuter/Tesla successor or Tesla side-grade wheel is also coming. Inmotion: two new wheels: V12, V15... one is supposedly an 18 incher, no idea what the other is... planned for April and October (pre coronavirus schedule) King Song: *crickets* ... there were rumors of a small wheel with modular batteries once, not sure what else they are doing. IRON Korea/Rockwheel: IRON-100 may come one day if they get enough funding (like a GT16 with bigger battery)

Sorry, very new members are restricted for spam prevention purposes (sadly necessary). You can send him a PM now. By default settings, he should get an email notification. Then wait for a reply

Ok, then I've been told wrong. Thanks! So all you need is an extra 16.8V pack with its own BMS and a bit of luck that the BMSes still work, and you're good?

Some new discussion has been split into its own thread:

I can split this discussion into a 84V->100V battery upgrade thread if you want and that's your plan. Then more knowledgable people can tell you how you can do it right. Just say so. I think this mod may be mainly motivated because 100V Gotway BMSes weren't available then? You could also build your own 100V pack from your individual cells (I assume you can do that - spot welding etc. - if you can build your own 16.8V pack). But maybe there's an easy modification to this 84V+16V approach that makes it "good". A simple BMS-BMS or a communication channel between the two inner BMSes. I wouldn't know. (Probably it's easier (and cheaper?) to sell the 84V and buy a new 100V)

No, you would also need a "BMS" that keeps the voltage between both packs the same, too. So three altogether: two (one in each pack), and an overall one. Professional picture: The cells in the 84V pack are kept balanced by their BMS, the cells in the 16.8V pack are balanced by their BMS, and the outer BMS makes sure the packs (cells in each pack) have the same voltage, too. Otherwise one pack could be 4V per cell and the other 3.5V or something like this. That's how I understand it.

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Nice ride!!

Moved to new forum

Not sure if the BMS knows the external voltage or just supervises the cell voltage. As I understand it, the problem is there's nothing to make sure both packs have the same voltage per cell (same internally for the second small pack which presumably has no BMS of its own). So their voltages can drift apart. The charging to 100% + balance may just be a way to prevent that (my guess). Extra cells in series that aren't connected to the BMS. Unlike in a "real" battery pack. Maybe @Chriull knows more.

Couldn't have said it better.

This whole stressing out over the battery isn't worth it. No worse feeling than wanting to do a spontaneous ride but the wheel is at 80% (and would need a few hours to top off, hte end is always the same slow speed independent of the charger) and you regret not just charging it when you could have. I have over 6500km/130 charge cycles and I don't notice any capacity loss. Don't abuse the battery and have fun otherwise