Begode Master Pro 22” 4800wh 134v

[techyiam]

23 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

These plastic ones are quite strong, but also quite small, and I expected them to be not necessarily up to the task, so ordered some steel alternatives, which arrived today. They are smaller than the picture looked (maybe 6 inches long), but bigger than my plastic ones, and should  give me enough leverage I hope.

Sorry, even if they don't bend or break, your hand may not be strong enough to mount the tires. But I can wrong, because I don't know how strong you are, and I don't know how stiff your tires are. My tire irons are much bigger. They look similar to these, but the flat ends have no curve and are much higher quality. 

[KiwiMark]

1 hour ago, Paul A said:

Are motorcycle tyres much harder to put on?

I've changed tyres myself on a Suzuki DR-650 and I found that motorcycle tyres vary a lot.  Some are relatively easy to put on and take off yourself, while some are very stiff in the sidewalls and are a total pain to get on or off.  I once damaged a tube, then put the motorcycle wheel into the boot of my car and drove to the motorcycle shop and got them to put the tyre on for me.

[EUCzero]

1 hour ago, Cerbera said:

Ok, now I understand what @arcyenom was on about

I do like it. But in the case of the master I am worried about the insane amount of pressure that has to be applied from above to get that to work, which must necessarily be done with the motor wire bundle emerging underneath (doing the no disconnects tyre change), so we would have to find an ingenious way of preventing the full weight of the hub and a human bearing down on it and mashing the cable. 

I may delay the fitting of my Citygrip til next week, when I can get a friend to help, and maybe we will do that method, but I do have very smooth plastic tyre levers that have never pinched an inner tube yet - perhaps because I never use the hooky end, and like @techyiam mentioned, lube the tools and slightly inflate the tyre so it resists a pinch. Having said that, I have never changed an MC tyre before, so we'll see what happens. If I fuck up the inner tube now I will be SO cross

I don't understand why you have to have the cables down towards the floor?
Why not put the tire on from the other side, cables up?

Just thread the whole rim thru the tire, and voila, it is on the other side and cables up.

[Paul A]

1 minute ago, EUCzero said:

I don't understand why you have to have the cables down towards the floor?

 

Might be cables on both sides of the wheel.

[techyiam]

1 hour ago, Cerbera said:

Interestingly the CityExtra is one direction if it's a 'front' tyre and the other if it's a 'back' tyre ! What is best for EUC ? Presumably it's to do with which direction the water's getting displaced ? 

I can't back it up, but if it was me, I would mount it like a front tire.

For proper inner tube, and tire orientation, you have to imagine how things will be after they have been mounted, and installed back in your euc, to work out which way will give you the correct orientation. Just by looking at it directly can be wrong. Be very careful here.

Edited November 1, 2022 by techyiam

[techyiam]

15 minutes ago, KiwiMark said:

some are very stiff in the sidewalls and are a total pain to get on or off.

I know what you mean. Sometimes it seemed impossible to put on or remove. There was one time, I had to make many attempts, and use a lot of lube to finally finesse it on.

[Paul A]

As @KiwiMark suggests, maybe just go to a motorcycle shop and have them fit the tyre.

Save the hassles, tube damage, frustrations....

Wheel balancing as well?

 

Had 18k kms before needed to change a conventional EUC tyre.

A motorcycle tyre is going to last for a very long time, maybe even outlast the EUC.

Edited November 1, 2022 by Paul A

[winterwheel]

On 10/20/2022 at 5:52 PM, techyiam said:

Master Pro sales ranking at Alienrides is still climbing. It is now right behind the T4, which is right behind the S22. The Master Pro is a 120 lbs. 22" wheel.

Where do you see these rankings

[Chiway Black]

5 hours ago, Cerbera said:

Bloody hell - you lost FOUR ??!! How ?!! I am glad you said though - I am literally JUST ABOUT to go fit a City Extra to my Master tonight, and I ONLY have the 1 inner tube, so REALLY want to know where the danger points are !!

I was not planning to do it your way to be honest. I was going to do the following:

1. Deflate old tyre fully, and unseat top rim of tyre bead using tyre levers.

2. Carefully extract inner tube once you can get inside the lip, starting with valve.

3. Get other rim of old tyre off, and first rim of new tyre on

4. Reinsert the inner tube, starting with valve

5. Lever on remaining tyre rim

Like this guy starts doing.

If my plan is correct that shouldn't put the inner tube in much danger at all as far as I can see. What do you think, and how was your different ?! (other than being a Pro rather than a regular Master)

I believe my issues were mostly due to the increased size of the master pro rim along with the rigidness of the city extra. To be clear though, step 5 is where you're going to likely puncture your inner tube still. I recommend the zip tie method to remove any possibility of this.

[Chiway Black]

4 hours ago, Paul A said:

Are motorcycle tyres much harder to put on?

Video of tyre installation by a factory assembler just uses the butt of a hammer, around 3 minutes off and on.

No zip ties, spoons needed.  No tube pinching.

 

 

This would have been impossible with the city extra tire install i just did.

[Chiway Black]

3 hours ago, Cerbera said:

I am suitably ashamed that my brain didn't immediately think of that  Glad yours did though ! 

There should be another reaction for 'Golden Post', and that would get it.

Interestingly the CityExtra is one direction if it's a 'front' tyre and the other if it's a 'back' tyre ! What is best for EUC ? Presumably it's to do with which direction the water's getting displaced ? 

treat it as a rear tire.

[Chiway Black]

3 hours ago, techyiam said:

I can't back it up, but if it was me, I would mount it like a front tire.

For proper inner tube, and tire orientation, you have to imagine how things will be after they have been mounted, and installed back in your euc, to work out which way will give you the correct orientation. Just by looking at it directly can be wrong. Be very careful here.

I disagree. Mounting it as a front tire will spray water forward instead of to the rear. You want the treat pattern pointing downwards when you're looking at it straight on.

[mrelwood]

4 hours ago, techyiam said:

Mine are steel. I hope your are strong enough, otherwise they will snap like toothpicks. If they are designed for bicycle tires, they will break instantly. 

I have only ever used plastic tire spoons with and without a steel core, I change the tire twice every winter, I use only motorcycle tires (C-186, K66, K57), and I have never pinched a tube. If you get a pinch or if bicycle spoons are not enough, there is something in the technique that can be improved.

Pump the tube slightly to get it out of the way, and be sure to use lube at every spot that might be a challenge. And keep the opposite half of the tire bead tightly in the center groove of the rim at all times!

I will make a video of the technique when I change to the winter tire again in a few weeks.

[Robse]

15 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

I have only ever used plastic tire spoons with and without a steel core, I change the tire twice every winter, I use only motorcycle tires (C-186, K66, K57), and I have never pinched a tube. If you get a pinch or if bicycle spoons are not enough, there is something in the technique that can be improved.

Pump the tube slightly to get it out of the way, and be sure to use lube at every spot that might be a challenge. And keep the opposite half of the tire bead tightly in the center groove of the rim at all times!

I will make a video of the technique when I change to the winter tire again in a few weeks.

Yes !

The very essence:

1: Pump the tube slightly to get it out of the way

2: And keep the opposite half of the tire bead tightly in the center groove of the rim at all times

[techyiam]

4 hours ago, mrelwood said:

Pump the tube slightly to get it out of the way, and be sure to use lube at every spot that might be a challenge. And keep the opposite half of the tire bead tightly in the center groove of the rim at all times!

Those are the core steps. Depending on tire, the level of difficulty can rise exponentially. Maximizing bead slack is absolutely vital, so getting the portion of the bead already on into the groove of the rim is essential. 

Edited November 2, 2022 by techyiam

[Chiway Black]

17 hours ago, mrelwood said:

I have only ever used plastic tire spoons with and without a steel core, I change the tire twice every winter, I use only motorcycle tires (C-186, K66, K57), and I have never pinched a tube. If you get a pinch or if bicycle spoons are not enough, there is something in the technique that can be improved.

Pump the tube slightly to get it out of the way, and be sure to use lube at every spot that might be a challenge. And keep the opposite half of the tire bead tightly in the center groove of the rim at all times!

I will make a video of the technique when I change to the winter tire again in a few weeks.

You've done this with a Michelin tire on the 22" Master Pro? Not doubting you but 4 popped inner tubes has me very skeptical. I did pump the inner tube slightly to get it out the way. I did not have the other side in the center grove though.

[mrelwood]

39 minutes ago, arcyenom said:

You've done this with a Michelin tire on the 22" Master Pro?

No, but with similar tires on a same diameter rim.

39 minutes ago, arcyenom said:

I did not have the other side in the center grove though.

Then the operation must’ve been difficult as hell. This explains all your issues. The groove exists for that exact purpose, since the bead has to be smaller than the rim edge.

Edited November 2, 2022 by mrelwood

[Chiway Black]

27 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

No, but with similar tires on a same diameter rim.

Then the operation must’ve been difficult as hell. This explains all your issues. The groove exists for that exact purpose, since the bead has to be smaller than the rim edge.

That explains a lot then

[DjPanJan]

I snakebite my Michelin city pro (24psi) MSP 14inch on 20cm long gap on stainless steel drainage channel when i hit 20+km/h into this obstacle.

2 snakebites.

I open MSP remove tire and plug new iner tube inside bigest pain was put valve into hole (OMG).

After 40min all done. Trick:  For michelin i use plastic tire tools and hairdryer for heating tire on spots were i need to fit in without heat imposible to. 

Edit: Now i ride 28Psi :-( and pro tip use gloves because  I scraped the skin on my knuckles to the point of blood on 3 fingers)

video i use for how to :

Spoiler

 

 

Edited November 3, 2022 by DjPanJan
psi

[Paul A]

https://powersportsguide.com/cost-to-change-motorcycle-tires/

How Much Does It Cost to Change Motorcycle Tires?

As a rule of thumb, it costs about $20-$80 to change a motorcycle tire.

If you take off the wheels and bring them into a shop you can expect to pay $20-$40 per wheel.

But if you bring the whole bike into the shop be prepared to pay $40-$80 per wheel, in addition to the cost of the tires of course.

 

A reputable shop can not only professionally mount your tires, but they also balance the wheels with a special rebalancing machine.

Balancing the wheels is very important since only a slight weight difference can lead to vibration.

That’s why it’s recommended that you get the tire change done by a professional who can rebalance the wheels along with changing the tires.

Edited November 3, 2022 by Paul A

[Rawnei]

7 minutes ago, Paul A said:

If you take off the wheels and bring them into a shop you can expect to pay $20-$40 per wheel.

But if you bring the whole bike into the shop be prepared to pay $40-$80 per wheel, in addition to the cost of the tires of course.

I don't really think option B is a real option for an EUC, a motorcycle serviceman will not have the experience to take apart an EUC and definitely would take longer than removing a wheel from a motorcycle.

If they are using a machine to press the tire in/out of the motorcycle wheel rim will the EUC wheel/rim/diameter be comptabile with that? Might be a good idea to contact the service center first and check all of these things and I'm guessing a lot of service center would either tell you flat out no or bring it in and we will have to look at it.

[mrelwood]

1 hour ago, Paul A said:

A reputable shop can not only professionally mount your tires, but they also balance the wheels with a special rebalancing machine.

The wheel is going in the machine from it’s axle, so I’m pretty sure no EUC wheel will fit that either.

I also wouldn’t want to give my tender aluminum EUC rim to be handled by someone who’s experienced only in replacing tires on larger and stronger motorcycle tires.

It seems that most people on this forum have an insufficient or wrong technique for replacing the tire, which makes the process unnecessarily laborious, hard, and risky. I hope my next video will help with that.

[Paul A]

The zip tie technique seems to be simple enough for even a novice.

Look forward to video.

 

[Chiway Black]

35 minutes ago, Paul A said:

The zip tie technique seems to be simple enough for even a novice.

Look forward to video.

 

I didn't film me doing it but I think someone else posted a video. It's extremely easy.

[Magman116]

I would image the tire replacement on the Master Pro would be the same as the Master. I was able to change the tire on the master in under 30 minutes.  8 bolts to hold the wheel on, 4 screws for the battery on the side with the motor wire, and 3 screws for the motor wire retainers.

It took longer to get the motor out of the wheel then to change the tire.  It might be a little more involved on the Master Pro with the larger batteries.