Begode Master Pro 22” 4800wh 134v

[Cerbera]

3 minutes ago, techyiam said:

The Master Pro is a 120 lbs. 22" wheel.

I wonder how many people who bought one have really thought about just how heavy that is...

[techyiam]

12 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

I wonder how many people who bought one have really thought about just how heavy that is...

They will find out in 2 or 3 days after placing their orders, maybe less if they live in San Francisco. Alienrides has them in stock.

For starters, all the Abrams, Monster Pro, and EX20S riders may not take that long to adapt. 

Even Master riders such as @Nick McCutcheon has said he is adapting better with better power pads.

The undeniable attraction here is good range while flying at high speeds. 

Edited October 21, 2022 by techyiam

[Cerbera]

I just worry about all the guys using that extended range out on the mountain trails and deep in the wilderness, when they get an unrecoverable flat, or crash and the machine dies - that's a HELL of an unpleasant day trying to get that weight to a road if it can't roll powered, or roll at all ! 

[techyiam]

2 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

I just worry about all the guys using that extended range out on the mountain trails and deep in the wilderness, when they get an unrecoverable flat, or crash and the machine dies - that's a HELL of an unpleasant day trying to get that weight to a road if it can't roll powered, or roll at all ! 

I think Marty would be one who can tell us more on this topic when he gets his.

 

[Cerbera]

Indeed - he is the man who goes to all these far-flung places ! But he is also one of the most prepared riders I've ever seen, so I don't doubt he'll be OK should the worst happen

[zarralax]

Just ordered the Master Pro (eta Nov). I went on a mountain ride (60 miles) yesterday and someone had a Master Pro. It did well!, even in some rough terrain (big rocks and soft sand). Super high pedals compared to my Sherman. It has a straight valve stem so you need a right angle adapter. Rear light didn’t seem that bright.

For your own pads (I like Grizzla) it seems you need a plate or something to go over the battery packs so you have a nice flat surface for Velcro-ing big pads. I would love to fabricate a metal plate that would protect the packs as well as make a large surface area for pads. 

[RagingGrandpa]

Ecodrift posted a teardown (of the 3600wh version): 
https://ecodrift-ru.translate.goog/2022/10/24/master-x-razbiraem-plus-video/?_x_tr_sl=auto&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=wapp 

 

Our good ole HB stator (with C38 rotor) is wound differently: 4 turns per pole. 

Compare that to MSP (below left) and MSX (below right): both with 3 turns. 

I can't help but wonder what transplanting the 4-turn stator in an 18" 134V wheel might be like... a new class of stump puller.

[Chiway Black]

So after riding mine twice so far, here are my quick thoughts.

 

1) this wheel has more torque than anything else out there except maybe the original master due to tire diameter. This thing handles steep hills amazingly even at slow speeds 

2) I'm not a fan of the CST hybrid that comes with it. I'm used to the Michelin PS2 that has a gyro effect. This doesn't have that and it makes it so I can't lean off the wheel into turns. I've ordered a city extra to see if I like it more. 

3) The pads are terrible. Going to try some grizzla's as soon as this polycarbonate sheets I ordered come in to cover the battery packs 

4) the height makes the wheel hit my knees. This is causing some soreness that I assume I'll get over soon

5) I've only taken it up to 35 so far but looking at the safety margin stats, I was only pulling half the power at that speed. This is absolutely a 60mph wheel.

6) The suspension is not as good as the ex20s. It's fine for what I need it for though.

7) the headlight is good enough

8) the odometer goes blank when the wheel is on its built in stand. Comes back when you stand the wheel up.

9) the BMS has beeped at me twice now. No sure what that's about. Messaged alien rides to get their take.

10) the wheel runs incredibly cool 

11) I rode 42 miles and only used a third of the battery. The range is definitely there.

Overall I'm thoroughly satisfied with this wheel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 25, 2022 by arcyenom

[techyiam]

Well, the market has spoken, well at least in the US.

At Alienrides, the Master Pro is outselling the T4.

Well, at this rate, pretty soon, if you don't have a Master Pro, you won't be at the front of the group. 🙂

I am starting to believe big wheels can sell, but they need to have the right formula. 

Also, I believe more buyers are now waiting for a few first batch owner positive reports before purchasing. 

Notice the Begode EX30 is still in last place.

 

 

Edited October 25, 2022 by techyiam

[techyiam]

@mrelwood

Here is an owner's opinion on his Master Pro. Doesn't sound disappointed. He states that the problem with the EX.N HS, is that you can edge closer to 50 mph for an instant here and there, whereas, on the Master Pro, you can get to 50 mph in a few seconds and stay there all day (within battery  limitation). 

 

Time-stamped 

 

[mrelwood]

12 hours ago, techyiam said:

Here is an owner's opinion on his Master Pro. Doesn't sound disappointed.

Ok. I really don’t see a point in starting to link to individual comments that people might have on any of the larger wheels though. But I guess I should have shot on video when I talked with the people here who got to try the Monster Pro with me. Almost everybody critiqued the lack of nimbleness and slow acceleration. And nobody bought one afterwards.

 The guy in the video you linked to only talked about how the Master Pro accelerates and rides at 50mph, nothing about the nimbleness, effort required for acceleration etc. And at the end he mentioned that he participates on the next race with a Master, not Master Pro. I think that was interesting.

[mrelwood]

Btw, WrongWay talks exactly about what I said, in more detail (timestamped):
 

 

[Chiway Black]

Guys, after popping 4 innertubes trying to install a Michelin City Extra 80/90 tire with spoons, I just want to give some quick advice. Use Zip Ties instead! Every few inches put a zip tie around the tire and tube, get em nice and tight, get some suds on the wheel, and push that bad boy on with very little issue. Use of spoons at this point is optional but if you do you have far less chance of popping anything as the tube won't be exposed due to the zip ties. Hope this helps save someone days of grief.

[Cerbera]

40 minutes ago, arcyenom said:

Guys, after popping 4 innertubes trying to install a Michelin City Extra 80/90 tire with spoons, I just want to give some quick advice.

Bloody hell - you lost FOUR ??!! How ?!! I am glad you said though - I am literally JUST ABOUT to go fit a City Extra to my Master tonight, and I ONLY have the 1 inner tube, so REALLY want to know where the danger points are !!

I was not planning to do it your way to be honest. I was going to do the following:

1. Deflate old tyre fully, and unseat top rim of tyre bead using tyre levers.

2. Carefully extract inner tube once you can get inside the lip, starting with valve.

3. Get other rim of old tyre off, and first rim of new tyre on

4. Reinsert the inner tube, starting with valve

5. Lever on remaining tyre rim

Like this guy starts doing.

If my plan is correct that shouldn't put the inner tube in much danger at all as far as I can see. What do you think, and how was your different ?! (other than being a Pro rather than a regular Master)

Edited November 1, 2022 by Cerbera

[techyiam]

1 hour ago, Cerbera said:

If my plan is correct that shouldn't put the inner tube in much danger at all as far as I can see. What do you think ?

If I may interject, based on my own experiences, the danger of puncturing the inner tube is still there. The mostly likely time to puncture is at the very end when you have to lever in the last of the bead on.

I found that inflating the inner tube a bit helps. But at the very end, make sure every bit of the inner tube is inside the tire and not pinched. But even if this precaution is taken, there still one more gotcha. And that is as you pull out your tire iron, it can drag out a tiny bit of the inner tube with it. And consequently, the inner tube gets pinched. To avoid this, it helps to clean and lubricate the portion of the tire iron end that goes inside the tire, with a smear of dish soap. Also, to get the last bit of bead left into the rim, don't use the curved end. You need to use the flat tapered end of the tire iron. At this point, the bead is in great tension. Just slip the taper end and get beneath the bead. Dish soap helps here. You only need to insert the tire iron by just enough amount. Then you lever the bead in.

Edited November 1, 2022 by techyiam

[Paul A]

Are motorcycle tyres much harder to put on?

Video of tyre installation by a factory assembler just uses the butt of a hammer, around 3 minutes off and on.

No zip ties, spoons needed.  No tube pinching.

 

 

[Cerbera]

1 minute ago, Paul A said:

Are motorcycle tyres much harder to put on?

Yes. They are internally strengthened, and much stiffer and firmer.

[techyiam]

12 minutes ago, Paul A said:

Are motorcycle tyres much harder to put on?

Video of tyre installation by a factory assembler just uses the butt of a hammer, around 3 minutes off and on.

No zip ties, spoons needed.  No tube pinching.

A scooter / motorcycle tire is many folds more difficult to put on. The side walls and beads are super stiff.

I change my car tires, and motorcycle tire too, using the same tire irons. I failed to change runflats though. The latter type of tires are crazy stiff. You need hydraulic here.

Putting on or taking off a tire is not any easier on an euc, especially if it is a tubeless tire, and you don't want to damage or scratch the rim.

Edited November 1, 2022 by techyiam

[Paul A]

Ok, super stiff.

This is a 2 minute video showing the zip tie, no tube pinching, method.

Good idea @arcyenom.

"The only problem is, it's hard to inflate with the cable ties on there.........You F******g cut these off now!"  

 

 

Edited November 2, 2022 by Paul A

[Cerbera]

Ok, now I understand what @arcyenom was on about

I do like it. But in the case of the master I am worried about the insane amount of pressure that has to be applied from above to get that to work, which must necessarily be done with the motor wire bundle emerging underneath (doing the no disconnects tyre change), so we would have to find an ingenious way of preventing the full weight of the hub and a human bearing down on it and mashing the cable. 

I may delay the fitting of my Citygrip til next week, when I can get a friend to help, and maybe we will do that method, but I do have very smooth plastic tyre levers that have never pinched an inner tube yet - perhaps because I never use the hooky end, and like @techyiam mentioned, lube the tools and slightly inflate the tyre so it resists a pinch. Having said that, I have never changed an MC tyre before, so we'll see what happens. If I fuck up the inner tube now I will be SO cross

Edited November 1, 2022 by Cerbera

[Paul A]

3 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

find an ingenious way of preventing the full weight of the hub and a human bearing down on it and mashing the cable

 

Maybe two planks of parallel timber as a base, spaced at wheel rim distance apart.

If not high enough,

Place another two planks of parallel timber at right angles to the previous base, spaced at wheel rim distance apart.

If not high enough,

Place another two planks of parallel timber at right angles to the previous base......etc.

[techyiam]

16 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

I may delay the fitting of my Citygrip til next week, when I can get a friend to help.

Just a reminder since you wouldn't to do it twice, triple check that the inner tube and tire are in the right orientation. 

For inner tube, pump it up some so it takes on its circular shape. Check which side the valve stem is offset. That needs to match the valve hole in the rim. Also decide which direction you want the valve stem core to face, clockwise or counterclockwise. The factory often gets it wrong.

Some tires are unidirectional. 

So before you start mounting the tire, check, and recheck, again, and again, to make sure you got everything right.

Take your time. If you get frustrated, walk away. Don't push through with brute force.

Don't start unless you have a lot of time to spare. You can't rush it the first time. Otherwise, you will make many compromises. 

[Cerbera]

19 minutes ago, Paul A said:

 

Maybe two planks of parallel timber as a base, spaced at wheel rim distance apart.

If not high enough,

Place another two planks of parallel timber at right angles to the previous base, spaced at wheel rim distance apart.

If not high enough,

Place another two planks of parallel timber at right angles to the previous base......etc.

I am suitably ashamed that my brain didn't immediately think of that  Glad yours did though ! 

4 minutes ago, techyiam said:

Just a reminder since you wouldn't to do it twice, triple check that the inner tube and tire are in the right orientation. 

For inner tube, pump it up some so it takes on its circular shape. Check which side the valve stem is offset. That needs to match the valve hole in the rim. Also decide which direction you want the valve stem core to face, clockwise or counterclockwise. The factory often gets it wrong.

Some tires are unidirectional. 

So before you start mounting the tire, check, and recheck, again, and again, to make sure you got everything right.

Take your time. If you get frustrated, walk away. Don't push through with brute force.

Don't start unless you have a lot of time to spare. You can't rush it the first time. Otherwise, you will make many compromises. 

There should be another reaction for 'Golden Post', and that would get it.

Interestingly the CityExtra is one direction if it's a 'front' tyre and the other if it's a 'back' tyre ! What is best for EUC ? Presumably it's to do with which direction the water's getting displaced ? 

[techyiam]

36 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

but I do have very smooth plastic tyre levers that have never pinched an inner tube yet -

Mine are steel. I hope your are strong enough, otherwise they will snap like toothpicks. If they are designed for bicycle tires, they will break instantly. 

[Cerbera]

Just now, techyiam said:

Mine are steel. I hope your are strong enough, otherwise they will snap like toothpicks. If they are designed for bicycle tires, they will break instantly. 

These plastic ones are quite strong, but also quite small, and I expected them to be not necessarily up to the task, so ordered some steel alternatives, which arrived today. They are smaller than the picture looked (maybe 6 inches long), but bigger than my plastic ones, and should  give me enough leverage I hope.