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Thanks All!

I threw a level on the pedals and they are tilted way forward... the bubble is completely outside the lines. There is a second bubble thing in my level that I believe shows 2-3 degrees or so of difference from level, it is completely outside this scale.

I'm off to get some wood to build a stand and re calibrate this thing to flat as a start!

Such a helpful forum if I can keep out of the weeds!

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@UniMe many of us also like the front of pedals slightly higher (2to4 degree range) in the front. 

Flat is a good place to start though, I prefer aprox 2 degrees tilted back. Also helps the headlight shine further down the road at night too. 

My replacement RS is waiting for me at home. Time to inspect the board side, recenter the tire and slime the tube, grease the pedal pins and calibrate when I get home from work! 

This time I'm going to make sure the motor doesn't knock first though 🤣

I can't wait to get this wheel padded up and ready to battle the mnt bike trails!

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Well, that was a bit weird. This wheel is a lot different than my KS XL.

I found this vid re calibration, it seems he just has the wheel leaned against the wall without concern for that vertical plane. I did the same thing because every time I turn the wheel on it will spin out if I have it in the stand.... a learn as I go project. Does the 'left/right' plane of the wheel need to be perfectly vertical when I calibrate it?? 

 

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Ok, that makes sense. Just took it for a spin and it's much better -- tilted it back just shy of 2 degrees from about 3 degrees forward as it came.

It has always dipped a bit on uneven terrain etc., so perhaps I can realize more improvement if I figure how to drop it into my stand. Although above in the thread the dipping may be a firmware issue. Taking it back another degree or so feels like the right solution so that when it does dip a bit I don't go more forward than zero or perhaps +1 degrees.

I'm thinking that after I start the calibration process with EUC World and the wheel is no longer engaged I can then put it into the stand and perhaps lean the stand back a couple degrees.... turn it off (as per the sequence) take it out of the stand and place on the ground before I turn it on again (so it doesn't spin out). Hey, simple logic!! I'll get there eventually (but if anyone can confirm that would be great).

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5 hours ago, EMA said:

usually put pedal pins too before the first ride :)

Do you swap out the pedal pins that it came with? I only give them some wd40 during my first disassembly.

Edited by xiiijojjo
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I did a short 11mi shake down ride tonight on the replacement RS. This one is smooth! I'm hoping it doesn't develope the knocking, I think it's good though! 

I've never used power pads because my other two wheels are small (16s and mcm5) and don't need them. I think this wheel needs them. I have large calves and any wheel I've tried with power pad really restricted the movement. Is it normal to feel very restricted when using power pads? Is it worth it on these larger wheels?

 

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As someone who came from smaller wheels myself and in particular lighter wheels i completely identify with your concern over whether or not power pads are needed. In my honest opinion coming from a wheel weighing in at 19kg to this beast of 27kg i believe power pads are an absolute necessity if you are a freak speed and enjoy getting every bit of acceleration out of a wheel you payed good money for, especially since i live in mountains now the power pads personally become even more of a necessity.

What i did was buy the ali express super bulky power pads  and cut them down the middle and shaved off some parts of the thinner material to be able to choose angle and distance from calves to be able to lean harder and not be locked in it gives me the freedom of no pads with the added benefit of increased lean/push power and something to keep me from sliding off when going up/down stairs it also just generally prevents slipping on the shitty sandpaper on the pedals.

On the photos attached you can see parts i cut off the pad and i have since changed the position of the pad 3-4 times without using any velcro(doesn't feel right to me) i just made sure before i attached it for the first time that i had wiped the euc shell down with rubbing alcohol and when i peeled them off i made sure to treat them right and be gentle with the sticky side and they are as strong as when i first put them on there. When reapplying them by very precise and gentle so you don't have to stick/unstick many times which would ruin them. When you have put them on there turn the wheel on and squeeze it from both sides and hold for 1 minute total. To cover the cut up rough looking pads attach a layer of baby padding i got some as a free gift and others cover their entire euc in it to protect it. I would advise you do all this AFTER adjusting pedal angle as now i have to change the pads' position slightly once more. On the bright side this euc feels optimal for my kind of riding and my confidence on the wheel is outta this world as it used to be for my older lighter wheels.

edit: you will notice i also shaved down the back part of the pads as i really prefer being able to aggressively lean back for emergency braking and i felt they restricted me from properly braking. 

 

IMG_20201207_063037.jpg

IMG_20201207_062954.jpg

IMG_20201207_062923.jpg

Edited by xiiijojjo
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Well it's not that bad also you don't see it when you ride it, comfort is 10/10, and I personally think all pads take away from the looks of gotways, but your pad doesn't look too bad did you make it yourself? 

I only ride the wheel for performance and fun I don't care for people reacting to it also I'm a looker so I think most eyes would be on me either way haha.. 

But you must take into account that this is just a prototype for the final look as I still have to adjust the pads one final time before applying new baby pads all together and giving it a cleaner look 

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12 hours ago, buell47 said:

Yes, I made those Pads. You don't use Facebook, right? :efee612b4b:

I ride alone in the woods, nobody except me can see my wheel, but I can't accept if it's not nearly perfect in my eyes. :) 

But hadn't you canceled the order for the RS 19?

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On 12/2/2020 at 4:52 AM, NordEstEuc said:

Open right panel and take out 3/5 cm of Motor cable and fixit in some Way.... I got same Problem !!!

The motor cable is the cause of the knocking sound?  All I have to do is to secure the slack of the motor cable ?

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30 minutes ago, EMA said:

need to mount asap :thumbup:

IMG_20201209_114258.jpg

Please measure the distance from pedal axle to ground before and after you change the pedal hangers. 

 

57 minutes ago, RagingGrandpa said:

I'm not so sure- based on your images, the tire appears to be 'lower' in the shell, vs V1.
It's a good sign... need an in-person comparison to be sure

You think they raised the shell and not only the motor axle / pedal axle distance? 

If yes, that would be great in case I order again next year after they fixed the bearing problems. :D

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57 minutes ago, EMA said:

need to mount asap :thumbup:

 

If you could take a picture of the two different hangers side by side it would be great to see however they changed it :) 
Probably the best way to measure the evolution, pedal to ground relies on a perfectly vertical EUC.

 

edit: actually never mind, @RagingGrandpa posted some pictures of third party pedal hangers that probably are the same style. Still the easiest way to measure the height difference though.

Edited by null
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Just now, DjPanJan said:

7milimeters? i understand this good?

7mm is the difference from the pillar to the shell (shell was raised 4-5mm too), the actual difference in pedal axle is like 10-11mm, and also the pedal angle is 11°

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