Gotway RS

[RockyTop]

2 hours ago, Bongaloid said:

Question ANYONE who knows the answer:

 

Can someone tell me why my RS is beeping at 23 mph, even though my lowest speed alarm is set for 35 mph? 2nd and 3rd alarms are both set for 40 mph. How can I get rid of the premature beeps? Thanks in advance.

 

Bumping so my question doesn't get drowned out.

Hmmm ? I just did some quick math. Are your alarms set at 35 mph or 35 km/h? 

[Silver]

2 hours ago, Bongaloid said:

Can someone tell me why my RS is beeping at 23 mph, even though my lowest speed alarm is set for 35 mph? 2nd and 3rd alarms are both set for 40 mph. How can I get rid of the premature beeps? Thanks in advance.

You can't set custom alarms on the wheel itself the only option are to have the first alarm at 30kph or the second at 35kph. Any custom alarms you hear about people using either aren't for a Gotway wheel or are set in an app to play through a phone.

Edited December 28, 2020 by Silver

[Flying W]

I have all alarms off accept for the final beep that you can't turn off (I wouldn't it could) so of the wheel makes a sound it's time to slow done lol

 

 

[Bongaloid]

1 hour ago, Planemo said:

What is the beep sequence?

What app are you using to set the speed limits?

beep-beep-beep-beep -- beep-beep-beep-beep

EUC World

29 minutes ago, RockyTop said:

Hmmm ? I just did some quick math. Are your alarms set at 35 mph or 35 km/h? 

MPH

[Bongaloid]

14 minutes ago, Silver said:

You can't set custom alarms on the wheel itself the only option are to have the first alarm at 30kph or the second at 35kph. Any custom alarms you hear about people using either aren't for a Gotway wheel or are set in an app to play through a phone.

That's weird.. I wonder why the EUC World app has 3 speed alarm (low, med and high priority levels) settings you can select speeds for.

[RockyTop]

15 minutes ago, Silver said:

You can't set custom alarms on the wheel itself the only option are to have the first alarm at 30kph or the second at 35kph. Any custom alarms you hear about people using either aren't for a Gotway wheel or are set in an app to play through a phone.

Ah! Makes sense.... I think that I had the same problem and just turned the first two alarms off without digging any deeper. 

[Bongaloid]

14 minutes ago, Flying W said:

I have all alarms off accept for the final beep that you can't turn off (I wouldn't it could) so of the wheel makes a sound it's time to slow done lol

 

 

Seems like I'll have to do the same. The beeping that begins at 23mph is excessive. 

Do you have a smart watch or something to monitor your speed?

edit: replaced "the" with "that"

Edited December 28, 2020 by Bongaloid

[Silver]

1 minute ago, Bongaloid said:

Do you have a smart watch or something to monitor your speed?

I use EUC worlds alarm and Bluetooth a earbud. I also have it set to read off my speed every once and a while so I can have a feel for my speed even if I'm not going fast enough to hit the alarm.

3 minutes ago, Bongaloid said:

That's weird.. I wonder why the EUC World app has 3 speed alarm (low, med and high priority levels) settings you can select speeds for.

EUC world lets you set custom alarms that you can play off your phone or off bluetooth. It's a bit overly confusing and I don't really understand the priority level stuff but that is for that and not the wheels default alarms.

[Bongaloid]

1 minute ago, Silver said:

I also have it set to read off my speed every once and a while so I can have a feel for my speed even if I'm not going fast enough to hit the alarm.

Thanks, I'll have a looksie and see if I can figure that out!

[Flying W]

I do about half n half on road off road and I have the high torque version. Off road I'll never hit beep speed and on road I'm usually cruising around 20 to 25 mph on the way to the dirt. 

If I was hitting the beep all the time is be wishing I bought the high speed version but so far it's only beeped when I was trying to make it beep, I can have the battery pretty low before it beeps at 25mph on flat roads. 

These wheels are so much better than when I started riding it just amazes me sometimes! 

[Bongaloid]

49 minutes ago, Flying W said:

I have all alarms off accept for the final beep that you can't turn off (I wouldn't it could) so of the wheel makes a sound it's time to slow done lol

 

 

On a full charge, at what speed do the final (mandatory) beeps come in?

[Flying W]

For me it's about 37mph on EUC world and that's about 35mph gps speed. I'm about 185lbs geared up. 

[EUC Custom Power-Pads]

1 hour ago, Bongaloid said:

On a full charge, at what speed do the final (mandatory) beeps come in?

37mph real speed, but with a 2.75-14 CST-C186 knobby tire (bigger diameter) and 78kg rider weight. 

[StealthPhoenix]

update for absolutely none:

ive rode mine for about a week now, 195miles.

today, in 31° F with strong headwinds, overall flat terrain, with one really steep hill (13-15% grade), with 150 lbs, i did 25 miles with 28-36% battery left. it does surprisingly well off road too i think. the fastest ive ever gone is about 29mph, only hitting 30mph momentarily. 

-------------

also, unsure of who asked, but euc is in kilometers as far as i know, meaning it may be an oversight for us "miles" folks if were too quick to set limits in the app.............and the beeps could also be related to temperature maybe? like if you try climbing up a hill on low battery. the same hill that youve done many times on a fresh charge may never have beeped on you, but suddenly at lower battery levels, if you try it, it may beep. or just feel sluggish, or it could just be your technique etc..

-------------

in any case...ive so far been riding in road and bike lanes with no gear whatsoever. foolish yes. but at the speeds im finally able to feel comfortable cruising in now (16-25mph), my eyes get watery, and even my columbia 200g insulation boots start to let the cold through. so definitely smartwool socks (mountaineering style), and some goggles need to come out, despite being such a mild winter really (at least so far, up here in NYC).

[Flying W]

@StealthPhoenix watch the app and the voltage while you accelerate. You will see the voltage drop quite bit, especially when it's cold. When that gets to a certain threshold it will beep to tell you your reaching it's limits. This is why on a lower battery charge it will beep going up hill. It beeps at aprox 80% of available current and it's recommended to "respect the beep" so it doesn't cut off. 

With only a 4 cell wide battery pack the rs does have significant voltage drop when pushing it hard up hill. 

I have all alarms off, you can't turn off the final warning so this way if the wheel chirps I don't don't push it any harder. 

[StealthPhoenix]

20 hours ago, Flying W said:

@StealthPhoenix watch the app and the voltage while you accelerate. You will see the voltage drop quite bit, especially when it's cold. When that gets to a certain threshold it will beep to tell you your reaching it's limits. This is why on a lower battery charge it will beep going up hill. It beeps at aprox 80% of available current and it's recommended to "respect the beep" so it doesn't cut off. 

With only a 4 cell wide battery pack the rs does have significant voltage drop when pushing it hard up hill. 

I have all alarms off, you can't turn off the final warning so this way if the wheel chirps I don't don't push it any harder. 

you know, this is invaluable info to me, as i purposely took off all the alarms for my setup as well on eucworld. i further didnt know voltage sag would trigger an alarm. i thought theyd built it so that any sag would not hinder the gyro  at any level of battery (except something nearing like..30%+/-). thats not spec, just an arbitrary assumption on my end haha. but anyway, ive not yet had a beep, and today was 28°F, i did 24 miles, and got to 30 mph without realizing it. all that to say as im getting more comfortable with the wheel, your comment grounds me and makes me take a second look at the alarm structuring. thank you @Flying W

for clarity, i thought the app and the wheel were made to register all intermittent voltage sag as enough to retain the gyro mechanism at least, while reducing speed if unable to output the power you request....and this would show up as just a loss of battery level over time and THAT would then be the option you could select on eucworld. even the battery alarm stuff on the app, i thought would be based that way, nothing to indicate such an intermittent sag in voltage that springs back up to maintain the usual battery level..unless sustained at such load to cause battery drain by a few irrecoverable percent. .....man i think thats actually more confusing, but...ah well..i tried..

Edited December 30, 2020 by StealthPhoenix

[Flying W]

@StealthPhoenix glad to help man. 

As your motor springs it makes voltage, the difference in voltage for lack of a better way of explaining it lets the motor spin. At full charge we have a 100volt system (it's less under load but let's go with 100) 

Top speed is reached when the battery voltage and motor voltage equal each other, no more accel to hold you up.

This is different than a cutoff, and of not accelerating hard can sometimes be recoverable (ustride on youtube recovers from this state frequently). This state comes after the wheel will beep by a decent margin so if you if always don't push past the beep, which drops as battery voltage goes down, you'll be safe unless there is a board failure. 

I don't ride beyond the beep, of my wheel is getting all scratched up or worse it's going to be from my lack of judgement not from chasing a few extra mph on the top end 

 

 

[StealthPhoenix]

13 hours ago, Flying W said:

@StealthPhoenix glad to help man. 

As your motor springs it makes voltage, the difference in voltage for lack of a better way of explaining it lets the motor spin. At full charge we have a 100volt system (it's less under load but let's go with 100) 

Top speed is reached when the battery voltage and motor voltage equal each other, no more accel to hold you up.

This is different than a cutoff, and of not accelerating hard can sometimes be recoverable (ustride on youtube recovers from this state frequently). This state comes after the wheel will beep by a decent margin so if you if always don't push past the beep, which drops as battery voltage goes down, you'll be safe unless there is a board failure. 

I don't ride beyond the beep, of my wheel is getting all scratched up or worse it's going to be from my lack of judgement not from chasing a few extra mph on the top end 

 

 

@Flying Wyeah im with you. shout out to UStride! before i ever got my first (and only euc), i was watching his videos (among others) in anticipation. like many others here, i had a game plan of "how to learn" after watching their videos. in the end, i just used a chainlink fence for 2 days, an hour each, just trying to move without assistance. but i was going so slow that it never really worked more than 2 seconds. 3rd day, i took it to a soccer field and a chainlink fence. i was getting used to just balancing at 1-2 mph for 2 seconds and was crouched like crazy (more stability for me), but that day is when my "crouching stance" served me well, as i could stretch the time to 3-5 seconds. this then allowed me enough "handsfree" time on the wheel to actually realized how much pressure was needed by my toes and heels to accel/brake, which then turned into realizing that more speed = more stability (at least in the low end for a beginner). I knew all these things in theory of course from watching those videos from all the folks in the euc community, but the muscle memory is different from just memory...these days, i think i ride somewhat similar to the UStride way i guess. i do my main acceleration/braking (a change of more or less than 5 mph from any speed) using my body though, and then just fine tune the speed (a change of 1-3 mph) with my toes and heels like UStride. then i alternate which foots toes or heels im using for turns/accel/brake if im on longer rides (20+ miles atm for me...i think thatll keep increasing as the muscle develops)...but THEN maybe ill be able to effortlessly use my toes and heels only as UStride does..

happy 2021!

cant wait for the warmth out here, envious of cali weather haha

[Simply_Striking]

Has any one gotten updated boards from ewheels for this wheel? If so what is the process?

[Edidas]

 

[JirkaMak]

Hi guys,

do you think the RS has compatible side panel with the MSP? To be honest, I'm feeling like my RS must be cursed. :-D

I just replaced the main board, it failed on me just before Christmas, and took it out for a quick ride. Unfortunately, I scratched a curb (a bit higher one) from a side attempting to jump on it. Not a big impact, I just walked it off and the wheel fell, no jumps or spins. But when I lifted it, the whole side panel dropped. Every single attachment slot on the side panel broke. I didn't realise how brittle the shell actually is, it sustained much harsher impacts and this one didn't even deserve mentioning. But now I'm without the side panel and the only available side panel I can get in a reasonable time is the MSP one, not the original RS.

I thought about trying to fix it temporarily by making new slots with an epoxy with some filling, but I don't think it will stick. I tried to melt the shards from broken sockets in acetone and it does not dissolve, it just disintegrates into small black (carbon?) particles. Never saw a behaviour like this so I have no idea how to glue anything it, or make an epoxy stick to it.

Any ideas welcome. :-)

And may your rides be happier on this wheel. Mine is just a pile of troubles from day one. 

Oh, and BTW, the knocking sound discussed here earlier is not caused by the cable. Not at all. No point in trying to fix the cable. It is indeed the motor, or actually the bearing, failing quickly. And I'm not talking about a rust, which is there as well, the bearing just warped a bit and causes the stator to hit magnets array at the closest point. The only way to actually fix it right now is to replace the bearing, or the whole motor.

[MultiTricker]

Oh my... When reading @JirkaMak post, I get kinda weak and fainting picturing I can have these problems as well, probably even with new wheel.

I had RS HT ordered in mid september, on first ride after 10 miles knocking sound, problem with bearings. I have new wheel on the way since mid december, so it is the latest batch.

My question is - is there anyone with RS HT, who is happy and having no problems 500+ km ridden? :-) Or should I be worried about what happens now? My MSX 1300 WH which I bought with already 500 km on it is perfect, now I have more than 2000 km without any problem. Of course - anytime can anything happend, but what are the odds that it will just be bad luck?

 

[DjPanJan]

1 hour ago, JirkaMak said:

Hi guys,

do you think the RS has compatible side panel with the MSP? To be honest, I'm feeling like my RS must be cursed. :-D / no is not RS is "fat" compare to clasic MSP

I just replaced the main board, it failed on me just before Christmas, and took it out for a quick ride. Unfortunately, I scratched a curb (a bit higher one) from a side attempting to jump on it. Not a big impact, I just walked it off and the wheel fell, no jumps or spins. But when I lifted it, the whole side panel dropped. Every single attachment slot on the side panel broke. I didn't realise how brittle the shell actually is, it sustained much harsher impacts and this one didn't even deserve mentioning. But now I'm without the side panel and the only available side panel I can get in a reasonable time is the MSP one, not the original RS.

/What hapend with you board? is purchased from ekolka.cz? you seller give you for free replaced mainboard?

I thought about trying to fix it temporarily by making new slots with an epoxy with some filling, but I don't think it will stick. I tried to melt the shards from broken sockets in acetone and it does not dissolve, it just disintegrates into small black (carbon?) particles. Never saw a behaviour like this so I have no idea how to glue anything it, or make an epoxy stick to it. / Is hard to glue this "plastic" in cold temperature is weak/fragile mutch more

Any ideas welcome. :-)

And may your rides be happier on this wheel. Mine is just a pile of troubles from day one. / I own classic MSP 0 real Problems 2500Km this season.

Oh, and BTW, the knocking sound discussed here earlier is not caused by the cable. Not at all. No point in trying to fix the cable. It is indeed the motor, or actually the bearing, failing quickly. And I'm not talking about a rust, which is there as well, the bearing just warped a bit and causes the stator to hit magnets array at the closest point. The only way to actually fix it right now is to replace the bearing, or the whole motor. / My msp survived 55+Km/h faceplant on asphalt and no structural damage no  electric problem after crash. True is i have 2x bumper and EUC bodyguard on my MSP + 2x Hudge powerpad. (všechny ty RS jsou odpad teče do toho a ložiska nanic)

 

[JirkaMak]

17 minutes ago, DjPanJan said:

 

...no is not RS is "fat" compare to clasic MSP... I thought so, just wanted to confirm. I guess I'll have to get new panels and just wait a bit more. I don't think I'll be able to glue it (model missing parts) with anything I can get right now.

...What hapend with you board? is purchased from ekolka.cz? you seller give you for free replaced mainboard? ... To be honest, I don't really know. It stopped balancing itself after my 2nd attempt to fix the bearing issue. I kinda consider it to be my fault even though I don't know if I really did anything wrong. The wheel turned on normally, lights, BT, all worked ok, it just didn't respond to tilt. I got the RS from myewheels.com and they were super supportive, so yes, I got a new main board for free and the wheel works again (at least the electronics do).

I own classic MSP 0 real Problems 2500Km this season. Yeah. I fell for the "the new MSP" hype. Now, I'm just trying to get it live again so I can use it as a learning wheel, or a wheel for my spouse, if she finally decides to hop on. I myself opted for the Sherman after a couple of hard nights and some very hard wallet math. :-) But I'm already sold on EUCs, no turning back. Hoping for a much nicer experience, which it actually is so far. Got about 300-350km on it and it's as smooth as butter.

My msp survived 55+Km/h faceplant on asphalt and no structural damage no  electric problem after crash. True is i have 2x bumper and EUC bodyguard on my MSP + 2x Hudge powerpad. Yeah, I did make few scratches on the RS on those 30-40km I was able to ride it as well. I'm still a newb so I do make mistakes. The bumper and pads would probably not help in this case, though. The impact was on the bottom right corner of the right side panel slightly from an angle. There is a crack about 3cm long at the impact point where it connected with the curb edge. Top left threaded post holding the panel to the inner shell broke. All the other posts survived intact and the side panel broke on the screw sockets instead. The impact happened at around 10km/h, probably less. I was trying to jump up on the curb so not a high speed impact. Still, the result is devastating. Bad luck I guess. Jo, to mi povídej. :-)

[EMA]

2 hours ago, MultiTricker said:

My question is - is there anyone with RS HT, who is happy and having no problems 500+ km ridden? :-)

i have like 1000km and it's fine right now