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On 1/5/2021 at 3:49 AM, mrelwood said:

.

If pumping the tire and the shocks is to do much more than you need to do to a new car, I... I am speechless and I give up.

Ps. WTB a computer that already has all my files in it the way I want them. Don’t tell me that’s not the way they’re sold, HELP me!

Electric kick scooters with solid rubber tires are what he is looking for.

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Just got my V11, first wheel.  Already broke it in with some spills and scratches but getting better with every ride.  One question about set up, what tire pressure do you recommend.  I have it at 34 and it feels good, but tight turns are tricky.  Its probably my lack of experience but thought I'd ask.

FYI, my weight is 185lbs, I have suspension set up as 120 bottom and 60/70 top(gauge on the pump hard to read).  Feels good to me.

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2 hours ago, Wise Rides said:

Just got my V11, first wheel.  Already broke it in with some spills and scratches but getting better with every ride.  One question about set up, what tire pressure do you recommend.  I have it at 34 and it feels good, but tight turns are tricky.  Its probably my lack of experience but thought I'd ask.

FYI, my weight is 185lbs, I have suspension set up as 120 bottom and 60/70 top(gauge on the pump hard to read).  Feels good to me.

I started at 30 psi for the first 200ish miles and graduated up to 34 psi. I tried 38 but it was to squirrelly. Im 200-210lbs when geared up

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2 hours ago, Wise Rides said:

what tire pressure do you recommend

I have 2.0 bars in the tires and now I'm testing with 120/70 in suspension, but for my weight (75kg+6 equipment), it gives only 2.5 cm of SAG and I will lower it to 110/60, as I had before, with 3 of SAG.

What I do notice is that the pressure from above ends up going almost all and I have retightened and greased the valve cores.

If I put the upper pressure ok and check it after 1 min, it releases air X (pfffffff). If I check it after a few days, it releases very little air (pf). That loss makes it clonk unpleasant. Maybe someone has any idea about it. The low valve maintain ok the air

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I agree with you @Zopper. One should think twice before modding vital parts on a wheel. You alway have to look at impact and downsides. In this case you will have an exposed part that is likely to flex/expand when being under pressure. And you are adding a link that can fail or leak. 

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For any pump and inflation issues, I’ve been through many electric pumps and adapters to find the perfect setup.

Using the second version of the pump that Inmotion supplied, I found that I had issues with losing air whether unthreading at the valve stem or unthreading up top. I wanted a quick disconnect that minimized air loss, especially in the top chamber since it has such a small volume.

As previously mentioned, I went through a few pumps and adapters on Amazon. I chose the following pump because of its dual display (fast real-time pressure readout and pressure setting), compact design, and USB-C port (Yes, USB-C. There is a USB-A to USB-C cable provided.) for charging.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CS77TGH/


For an adapter, I wanted a quick release type. There are many on Amazon and they essentially thread into the end of the Inmotion pump and the end of the electric pump I mentioned above. The one I chose also threads directly into the electric pump but this makes it rather short.

But the main reason I chose the following adapter is because its inner plastic/rubber seal survives being placed over the metal valve stem. All of the others I tried ripped and tore the inner rubber seal on first use (!). This one has survived multiple uses.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY55BT5/

I also set the electric pump to 10 PSI above my desired value due to the air loss during the quick disconnect process due to the small air shock chambers. I don’t do this for the tire.

Hopefully this helps anyone looking to avoid manually pumping and losing air.

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6 hours ago, EUC_user said:

I found that I had issues with losing air whether unthreading at the valve stem or unthreading up top.

I hope that you are aware that the loss of air you hear when disconnecting the pump comes from the hose of the pump, not from the shock chamber. And when you reconnect the pump to measure the pressure, the air in the shock chamber now fills the hose as well. Same amount of air now filling a larger space is why the pressure reading is smaller than what originally was in the chamber.

 This was easy to confirm with the first gen V11 pump: Close the valve, bleed the air out with the button on the pump, and open the valve. The pressure is 15 psi lower, the exact same amount that any shock pump will show after detaching the pump and reconnecting again.

 

Edited by mrelwood
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7 hours ago, mrelwood said:

I hope that you are aware that the loss of air you hear when disconnecting the pump comes from the hose of the pump, not from the shock chamber. And when you reconnect the pump to measure the pressure, the air in the shock chamber now fills the hose as well. Same amount of air now filling a larger space is why the pressure reading is smaller than what originally was in the chamber.

 This was easy to confirm with the first gen V11 pump: Close the valve, bleed the air out with the button on the pump, and open the valve. The pressure is 15 psi lower, the exact same amount that any shock pump will show after detaching the pump and reconnecting again.

 

The problem I’m having must be two fold:

1) I must not be unscrewing the second version of the Inmotion pump fast enough by the valve stem. There isn’t much grip and therefore as I’m unscrewing it, lots of air is escaping. If I unscrew the top portion, I find both the top and bottom section unscrew sometimes. It’s an annoying process. The quick disconnect type works so much better.

2) I think one of the lower shocks valve stems is isn’t working properly. I swapped Schrader valve cores and the problem persists with the same shock. It’s as if the valve stem core pin sticks out further than the other side. Again, swapping cores did not solve the issue; yes, the core is tightened. With the pin sticking out further, more air escapes when using a screw on pump.

I don’t mind the extra ~$45 I spent to solve /my/ issue. Not to mention that the pump and adapter are not limited in use to the EUC.

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With the newer type of Inmotion pump, I believe that you unscrew the lower section - attach that to the valve first - then screw the top section onto it. I remove it by reversing the same process. This is the way I have been doing it and dont hear any escape of air pressure.

However, in practice this is very difficult because of the lack of grip available. I have put rubber on the first section to aid grip, which helps a little.

Edited by Flotsam
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1 hour ago, Flotsam said:

With the newer type of Inmotion pump, I believe that you unscrew the lower section - attach that to the valve first - then screw the top section onto it. I remove it by reversing the same process. This is the way I have been doing it and dont hear any escape of air pressure.

However, in practice this is very difficult because of the lack of grip available. I have put rubber on the first section to aid grip, which helps a little.

Yeah, that’s why I forked out $45 (the pump had a coupon at the time that brought it below $40). It got very annoying dealing with the Inmotion pump.

The electric pump and quick release adapter work very well and I no longer risk thread damage.

Edited by EUC_user
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10 hours ago, EUC_user said:

Yeah, that’s why I forked out $45 (the pump had a coupon at the time that brought it below $40). It got very annoying dealing with the Inmotion pump.

The electric pump and quick release adapter work very well and I no longer risk thread damage.

Do you still have to unscrew the panels on the V11 to attach to the upper valve?

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8 hours ago, Flotsam said:

Do you still have to unscrew the panels on the V11 to attach to the upper valve?

I suppose you could work your way in there. But the time you took to do so would be better spent on removing the screws.

These T-handle Allen wrenches make it very easy:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y44JV6S/ (yes, they do clear the pedals) 

Edited by EUC_user
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41 minutes ago, Trampoline_matt said:

Amazon link shortened

This is what I'm going to try. I have experience with them in farming. I think I can zip tie the end to the saddle and let the hose flex. what do you think?

I still stand behind what I wrote a few posts above. The extension will be part of your upper chamber now and it will flex and it can greatly change the behaviour. Assuming it really is rated for heavy trucks and 100+ psi and it doesn't rupture/leak. Farming equipment has like 5x-10x lower pressure AFAIK (about 1 bar/14.5 psi for tractors is the default, I think).

EDIT: But if you insist it's a good idea and have those at hand, please, come back and report. I'm curious if it can be tuned up into something useful. :-) 

 

Edited by Zopper
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The only one that I think may work is the one on the right in the image below (135°). There are plenty on Amazon. I wouldn’t necessarily choose the cheapest (I think I may make a purchase actually).

I wouldn’t mind an increase in air chamber capacity as long as there’s no flexing. 50 PSI is 50 PSI after all.

C7678A6B-17AB-469B-B085-32548F7E5C50.thumb.jpeg.dd3083afdda99e40f90b44dcd618e7da.jpeg
 

Chrome plated brass (nickel plated brass is better, 3 posts below): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PYZFC9T/

Edited by EUC_user
Some clarifications.
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27 minutes ago, EUC_user said:

I wouldn’t mind an increase in air chamber capacity as long as there’s no flexing. 50 PSI is 50 PSI after all.

The pressure won't rise as sharply when compressed when the chamber volume is larger, so the piston will move further. You are more likely to top out the suspension, etc. Maybe it can be mitigated by increasing the pressure in the upper chamber, and maybe it won't be such a big difference in real life, but 50 psi in small chamber is not 50 psi in large chamber. :-)

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1 hour ago, EUC_user said:

The only one that I think may work is the one on the right. There are plenty on Amazon. Choose the cheapest (I think I may make a purchase actually).

I wouldn’t mind an increase in air chamber capacity as long as there’s no flexing. 50 PSI is 50 PSI after all.

C7678A6B-17AB-469B-B085-32548F7E5C50.thumb.jpeg.dd3083afdda99e40f90b44dcd618e7da.jpeg
 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PYZFC9T/

I Have both these along with the flexi hose type.  It would always leak air were it connects with the suspension valve stem ( which I tried tightening and added Teflon tape.) when I try pumping air into it.. So for me the 2 types of extenders was unfortunately a no go for me.

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22 minutes ago, Coolesnce said:

I Have both these along with the flexi hose type.  It would always leak air were it connects with the suspension valve stem ( which I tried tightening and added Teflon tape.) when I try pumping air into it.. So for me the 2 types of extenders was unfortunately a no go for me.

Interesting.

Well I just purchased the following:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0827VV3NX/

I chose the above because they’re nickel plated brass (superior corrosion resistance and cleaner finish) and not chrome plated brass. They also have internal rubber rings to prevent air leakage and the reviews look good.

They’ll be here tomorrow. If they suck, they’ll be returned.

These are chrome plated brass: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L9NXJDB/

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35 minutes ago, EUC_user said:

Interesting.

Well I just purchased the following:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0827VV3NX/

I chose the above because they’re nickel plated brass (superior corrosion resistance and cleaner finish) and not chrome plated brass. They also have internal rubber rings to prevent air leakage and the reviews look good.

They’ll be here tomorrow. If they suck, they’ll be returned.

These are chrome plated brass: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L9NXJDB/

Definitely share how things go.  After 2 attempts to make the suspension valve easier to adjust the pressures.  I just decided to adjust them as intended with unscrewing of the side saddles, but am open to giving it another go if it works for you.

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1 hour ago, Coolesnce said:

Definitely share how things go.  After 2 attempts to make the suspension valve easier to adjust the pressures.  I just decided to adjust them as intended with unscrewing of the side saddles, but am open to giving it another go if it works for you.

Will do.

There might be some clearance issues since the valves move with the saddles.

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Working fine so far.

You just need to make sure that they’re rotated away from the control board cover and toward the saddles. If not, they will impact during suspension travel.

CC3660FF-16B7-457E-99BD-62D558FE3B81.thumb.jpeg.e92755b682a9c56681bdeb69a434ace7.jpeg

E12249A6-BF28-4C5A-BEC3-710F5866AD62.thumb.jpeg.e15ec1684ab79636f3777805078547d5.jpeg

Attached and inflating:

D07ADA81-D404-4A22-86BD-49045EFC9E9D.thumb.jpeg.436b4d821dd6f56477873b6dcd015b4f.jpeg

Impacting the control board cover after putting some weight on the top handle:

E64CF90E-0CAA-42AA-9FFE-253EC752048C.thumb.jpeg.f4e087856692e1b9adfaea3c9daa8be4.jpeg

Rotating toward the saddle for clearance solves the above problem (they do not swivel freely nor due to NVH):

2A48F609-4211-48F2-B37A-2DB031548C03.thumb.jpeg.413c587870675c1d3bd1c3839ebacca2.jpeg

Final install:

83107338-4C6C-496D-B96A-94980B49AAB0.thumb.jpeg.72403d51e7bb6d743baf4bf2e56f1aca.jpeg
 

The electric pump with the adapter:

B98BFC68-347C-46E2-B01C-D1410A8773D0.thumb.jpeg.331309050364a5dc4e9f26fa4cc480d2.jpeg

BFF1EDDB-D284-407A-97C5-85084D01B3F3.thumb.jpeg.124884d516e77e12caa2c7db82aa979d.jpeg

I may decide to alternate the final install on the left side valve extender since rotating toward the saddle effectively loosens the thread a bit.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0827VV3NX/

Edited by EUC_user
Clarification.
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1 hour ago, EUC_user said:

Working fine so far.

You just need to make sure that they’re rotated away from the control board cover and toward the saddles. If not, they will impact during suspension travel.

CC3660FF-16B7-457E-99BD-62D558FE3B81.thumb.jpeg.e92755b682a9c56681bdeb69a434ace7.jpeg

E12249A6-BF28-4C5A-BEC3-710F5866AD62.thumb.jpeg.e15ec1684ab79636f3777805078547d5.jpeg

Attached and inflating:

D07ADA81-D404-4A22-86BD-49045EFC9E9D.thumb.jpeg.436b4d821dd6f56477873b6dcd015b4f.jpeg

Impacting the control board cover after putting some weight on the top handle:

E64CF90E-0CAA-42AA-9FFE-253EC752048C.thumb.jpeg.f4e087856692e1b9adfaea3c9daa8be4.jpeg

Rotating toward the saddle for clearance:

2A48F609-4211-48F2-B37A-2DB031548C03.thumb.jpeg.413c587870675c1d3bd1c3839ebacca2.jpeg

Final install:

83107338-4C6C-496D-B96A-94980B49AAB0.thumb.jpeg.72403d51e7bb6d743baf4bf2e56f1aca.jpeg
 

The electric pump with the adapter:

B98BFC68-347C-46E2-B01C-D1410A8773D0.thumb.jpeg.331309050364a5dc4e9f26fa4cc480d2.jpeg

BFF1EDDB-D284-407A-97C5-85084D01B3F3.thumb.jpeg.124884d516e77e12caa2c7db82aa979d.jpeg

I may decide to alternate the final install on the left side valve extender since rotating toward the saddle effectively loosens the thread a bit.

Is there a reason you need to have it at all? How often are you changing the pressure? Ive had mine set for 1500km without any noticeable pressure loss. I would be really afraid of damaging the valve on a really hard impact that bottoms out the suspension

Edited by GoGeorgeGo
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On 4/8/2021 at 6:20 PM, GoGeorgeGo said:

Is there a reason you need to have it at all? How often are you changing the pressure? Ive had mine set for 1500km without any noticeable pressure loss. I would be really afraid of damaging the valve on a really hard impact that bottoms out the suspension

How often do you change the lower chamber pressure?

It’s about convenience and accessibility.

And no damage would occur due to bottoming out the suspension; the valve extenders are rotated toward the saddle.

They don’t touch or are in anyway capable of touching the control board cover. They aren’t able to swivel freely if that’s your concern.

Edited by EUC_user
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