meepmeepmayer

100V (100.8V to be exact) is just the maximum voltage corresponding to a full battery. Empty is 79.2V for a 100V wheel. So you're at... 14% battery. Everything looks normal. Maybe Wheellog is also assuming a 84V wheel. You can change it to 100V in the options. 82V would correspond to ~98% battery then, and would be corrected to the actual 98.4V.

The problem with the "Walmart theory" is that electric ridables such as electric unicycles make very limited sense as toys, novelties, or cheap impulse buys. Their real potential is using them as serious vehicles in capability between a bicycle and a car (regarding speeds and ranges where one would use them). There is a reason that 90% of buyers get the biggest and baddest wheels they can (even if that's just a V8). That's where the value lies. New possibilities provided by new capabilities. Would Walmart stock a $2000 device? A $1000 ridable? I doubt so. These aren't the mass market prices they are looking for. Kids' toys and impulse buys and $300 wheels and 20kph ridables and "last mile" and short-lived trends like the hoverboard (or a mass-sold, cheap "hoverwheel") are a dead end. Probably even detrimental to the real thing by sabotaging public opinion with an inferior product (*cough* scooters *cough*). If it ever happens like this, "hoverwheel" will designate a cheap, mostly useless trend thing while "electric unicycle" will describe the real thing for the people who know what is really possible. So maybe there is space for both I sure hope not.

1800Wh, 1845Wh, 2100Wh Nikolas are official: http://kebye.com/productinfo/371591.html. 2700Wh 1rad is custom but beyond doubt quality-wise, unlike possibly mods sold by various Ali sellers, so I listed it like it was official (arguably it's better). Ranges scale linearly with battery size. x% more Wh = x% more range. The rest depends on the rider. Speeds are independent of battery size and just depend on whether it's 100V or 84V. Nothing new here. We don't have official beep speeds for the Nikola yet (as oppose to the other models). Weights... you can check https://ecodrift.ru/ (shop and blog posts) for various weights (they have some and not others listed).

You mention hills... maybe the big-tire Monster is the wrong wheel then? I'd get a Nikola (no firmware uncertainty like the 16X has now). And the mten3 anyway, in addition Also here: @Mike Paolini

The year is 2020 A.D, January. The world of electric unicycles is entirely occupied by winter. Well, not entirely... One single rider of the indomitable Californians still holds out against the invader. And life is not easy for the winter legionaries who garrison the fortified camps of Cold, Wind, Rain, and Snow... because they can't even get to him! In other words: Damn Marty, I'm envious

Standard disclaimer because why not: As always with EUCs, there are no guarantees. The Gotway beeps seem to be at something like 80% (or some number, but they call it "80% alarm") of the current maximum speed. This max speed is a clean, predictable quantity (for a given motor it only depends on voltage = battery percentage), so this is a great method to restrict speeds (KS does the same with an extra fixed max speed added). A sudden acceleration/bump/spike at ~80% (or whatever the number is) can easily add the 20% to produce an overlean, though. So I'm saying it can never hurt (literally) to give yourself some margin. The faster you are, the less margin you have, simple as that. So how fast you want to go is your decision (also depends on rider weight - lighter riders can ride the beeps, while heavier riders should be a bit more conservative).

Going by the Gotway-designed speed beeps, the Monster 84V has speed beeps at 55kph (34.1mph) at 100% battery, going down to 43kph (27.72mph) at 10% battery (source).

There are also the 1800Wh (21700) and 1845Wh (18650) 100V Nikolas, the 2100Wh (18650) 84V Nikola, and the unofficial 2700Wh (21700) 100V Nikola by 1rad. And maybe some unofficial MSX and Monster mods.

This is better than it looks at first! Rollbot, Wheelbot, you're on to something.

It gets complicated if weight/size matters. Otherwise for any regular commute that is > 3km/2 miles, I'd get something with a nice big wide comfortable tire, for daily comfort and obstacle forgiveness. 18+ incher or wide tire "16" incher like the 16X/Nik/V10F I guess. Just glide to work in smooth relaxed cushiness while you slowly wake up. Why not? The only other reason (non-weight/size) I can think of to buy a smaller wheel for a daily commute would be a very short commute or when you have a lot of starts and stops (city streets?) or acrobatic riding where maybe a lighter, smaller, better accelerating wheel is more enjoyable to use. And you know what they say: "Stronger wheels are safer!" and "You bought another wheel, what can the wife really do?" I am not responsible for any consequences of this recommendation. TDLR: Go for a big, comfy tire as soon as it makes sense (= the riding matters more than the rest).

In practice, there is no difference. Kingsongs don't suddenly fail and Gotways don't suddenly fail. There may be some tiny expections, but these are less about brand and more about individual (wheel or rider) bad luck. Moderns wheels are extremely strong. Yet you can overlean any wheel if you really try. Just go the top speed and then do a crazy acceleration. The result is an inevitable faceplant. Every device has a power limit, for EUCs exceeding it means a fall. As long as you ride with a bit of restraint, everything will be fine. That applies to any EUC rider, but especially to heavier riders. Don't accelerate hard into obstacles (like a beginning incline or some other sudden power draw). Don't accelerate like crazy because the wheel can only do so much acceleration. Don't do anything sudden (except braking) near the top speed where your margins are at their lowest already. Never ignore warning beeps and tiltback. Etc. For the rest (extremely rare bad luck, as well as a 100000000000% more likely rider error like an unseen pothole, which is what you really should care about) you have protective gear. Wrist guards, knee pads, (full face) helmet, etc.

Thank you! He worked in the Solowheel store so he at least will know some technical details. And probably this isn't the first time a battery was bad, so he should have experience what can be done about that.

"ruk"? If you meant "rules", don't be afraid. The rules are only meant to keep bad actors away, not honest posters like you. Even if you were to break one, which you didn't, that would be unimportant. You don't need to apologize for not coming to this forum earlier or anything About your 16X: That kind of rattling is typical for a slightly loose board. The board (which has the tilt sensor on it) can move slightly, which gives an input to the wheel, and the result is the rattling/bucking. You can wait what erides say, or you can open up the wheel to get to the board (not sure if you have to remove the side panels or you can just remove the top piece where the board is) and check the screws holding the board and heatsink onto the plastic shell. Also check if you see any cracks or other things that might allow the board to move. Also check if you can see any play in the axle area, loose big screws holding the shell on the pedal hangers, or cracks that may allow the shell (with the board on it) to move slightly against the pedal hangers (with you, the input, on them). I guess removing the side panels must to be done anyways Maybe it's also something else (or something 16X-specific I wouldn't know about), but we had plenty of similar symptoms that were loose boards. I wouldn't ride the wheel until it has been fixed. Frustrating, but better safe than sorry. Since your wheel is brand new and you are still in the EU (which means 2 year warranty), also don't be bothered to attempt a fix if you don't feel comfortable doing that. Let erides do their job. That includes finding out what causes your problem (loose board? bad board? something Kingsong-specific?) and fixing it for you.

Yep. I anyone complains about electric unicycles or other ridables, we can tell them to go f**k themselves and find a more worthwhile target like the nearest SUV (conveniently that also applies to every single other non-environmental discussion - just mention cars). Do not allow yourselves to be trapped in discussions with false premises where different standards are applied to cars versus other vehicles, or to be distracted by some unimportant detail (that never gets mentioned with cars). "Go find the nearest car and leave me alone!".

Sounds like the charger is always green if plugged into the outlet? Not sure about the Solowheel chargers, but other chargers have a red light when charging and a green light when not charging. So it looks like it isn't charging. I wonder why the wheel turns on though if the charger is plugged into it. For voltage measurement, I think as long as you don't accidentally connect any two pins, nothing bad can happen, right? (I'm no expert) There are three possibilities to measure, so maybe one of them gives some believable voltage that indicates something (e.. a credible level of undervoltage). Is there a voltage on the charger so we know what the intended voltage is? Sorry I don't know anything about the old Solowheels, so this is all I can guess. @Jeffrey Scott Will might know more but looks like he doesn't visit here often. @Nick McCutcheon can you help or ask him maybe?

What does the charger do if you plug it in? Can you easily use a voltmeter to measure the battery voltage without acidentally shorting the battery by connecting some terminals? That might give good info about the state of your battery.

I just show them a 5 second Youtube video of a EUC rider if I'm not standing on the wheel anyways. "Electric unicycle" also works in other languages than English because you can translate it. And I can always say to people who ask what that thing is called: "electric unicycle is easy to remember, one wheel and it's electric" (works better in German because the literal translation of EUC is "electric one-wheel"). Then they can google the rest if they care. People overwhelmingly seem to get that it's self-balancing like a Segway when they see it. I appreciate that "segwheel" or "hoverwheel" are smart in their own way, but I won't use them. Electric unicycle it is. Maybe I'm just too old for change

This is fine, as you were honest in the other post in the Commercial Advertisements forum (unfortunately that post had to go because that forum is only for Minipro-related stuff). Good luck with the sales!

All three (V10/V10F, Tesla, 16S) will easily climb any hills you throw at them. They're a all power level above the V8(F) due to the battery (double the peak current of the V8/V8F) and matching motors. They're pretty much as good as it gets, I would say. Worst case, you get overheating beeps/tiltback and must stop. Here's a fun-to-read post about a new rider's experience. Maybe it helps. I read it before I realized it isn't even in this thread, but I think it fits. Also: Maybe you can plan ahead a little. Can you see yourself staying with the wheel you buy now? Or do you expect to buy another 1600+Wh "big" wheel soon-ish, for the long range tours and extreme power? How would that be work out financially? So essentially the question might be: either you invest a bit more (Tesla or V10F) and stay with this wheel for longer, or you try to limit your costs now (which makes sense) and get a lighter/ cheaper/smaller commuter wheel now (V10), and then later comes a bigger wheel. Maybe this can also help with the decision 16S vs. Tesla ("only $100 more!") or V10 vs. V10F ("but why buy a V10 if it could be the V10F at the same weight!"). Sure, you can always look to some upgrade, but you have to stop somewhere anyways. I'm sure the 16X or Nikola or MSX or 18XL are great commuters, too As far as I see it: 16S/Tesla: Lighter and smaller, great form factor for commuting. V10(F): Bigger and heavier, but does that actually matter in the end? And it just looks so nice, has a comfy tire, and the V10 price is pretty great in comparison. Maybe you should just get one, it even comes with a beginner-friendly cover. You can't really make a wrong choice, even if you get a V8F or even V8 (though the extra $$$ for the V10 really are worth it unless you have a weight problem with it). In the end, you can do pretty much everything with every one of these three (and pretty much every modern wheel in general). Hope this helps. Also, again, simply trust your intuition if it comes down to that. "I just like this one better" is an excellent reason to choose a wheel, because your intuition includes all the subconscious things you may be unaware of (ergonomics, ...) that also matter. (The 16S has a whine and it would be nice if it didn't, but in the end, you very quickly forget about it. Many people, me included, were worried about this before buying a wheel, but it turns out to be no big deal at all. V10(F) and Tesla are whine-free anyways.)

I thought Inmotion updated their pedals to fix this? Woot really?That's a first!

Technically (and only technically but hey), a tiltback is only a suggestion that the rider can ignore. As are beeps. So I consider them both to be "throttling" = the wheel does something to tell you to slow down = the wheel won't let you ride in peace = the wheel throttles you. Anyways, the 18XL with the new motor from the 16X...

Plz add your Telegram group here then: Or maybe you want to also make your own pinned thread about your TG group/rides? Worth it if they're frequent.

There's also low battery/low voltage beeps starting at 15%. So no hoping for top speed down to 10%. Also there's the voltage drop. Realistically, Gotways start beeping at 30% no-load battery display (which gets close to 15% under voltage drop). Til then you can speed till you drop, after that it reduces the beep speed quickly and you will drop if you speed Two things: As you said, the same voltage means different battery % for different wheels. On Gotways, 3.3V per cell is 0% battery. On the 18XL, 3.3V is 25%, on the 16X it is ~15%. Kingsong just adds a max speed regardless of the battery, while Gotway takes the top speed as a percentage of the max motor speed at a given voltage. The throttling behavior is less different than it seems. You can see it if you plot the speed limit vs. the thing that actually counts (battery voltage) instead of an arbitrarily computed battery percentage. Here's a picture I made for this thread comparing the MSX and 18XL. The 18XL actually has less agressive speed throttling as soon as its self-imposed 50kph limit is out of the way, while the MSX is more careful. So the throttling behavior differences are not as big as they may look. Not sure exactly why the 18XL (new motor from the 16X) has different throttling from the 18XL (old motor). I guess it must be related to the motor is built. Or maybe KS just changed their mind.

What exactly is "turning too hard"? Doesn't make sense to me. We have heard the "it's intentional, it's just the firmware" excuse from the manufacturers before. Back then, that was clearly a lie (because it could be fixed by a proper calibration). Not sure how much to trust this info now...

You know you can easily push a stroller while riding a EUC? That would be the natural thing to do. No need to walk (And I simply want to mention, even though I'm sure you would never do it: Never carry the baby while riding a EUC. A fundamentally instable device like this should never ever be used to carry any living thing (baby, dog, ...) unless you are ok with using that thing as an airbag if anything happens or fails.) The 16S isn't that bad! Sure, for "only 100$ more" you can get a Tesla which is a notable improvement in various aspects. But you can always play the "only $100 more" game until you end up buying a high-end wheel. Given the prices (didn't look at these before... I forgot how expensive EUCs are), it is absolutely a viable option. Just as viable as the others. V8F $1100 - I think it's a bit overpriced for the small battery, should be <$1000 V10 $1200 (1150?) - Nice price! Don't worry about damage, in the worst case you get a few replacement parts. 16S $1350 - A bit too expensive. MCM5 $1350 - Why is that so expensive?! Tesla $1450 - $100 less and this would be a no-brainer... TLDR everything should just be $100 less Only looking at prices, the V10 looks like the best bang for the buck (if it only were a little lighter/smaller). I still think the Tesla is the best "investment" if you know what I mean (barring long range tours, it does everything). But maybe it's too close to a full performance wheel (16X, Nikola, 18XL, MSX) already, or you just don't want to spend that right now. That is a totally valid consideration. Honestly, no choice of these would be "wrong". You're only considering which might be the best choice for you. Also trust your gut feeling which wheel feels the right buy for you. Looks, whatever - trust your intuition. So if a certain wheel is on your mind, whispering a sweet "Buy me!" to you... go for that. There are various versions of the MCM5. The ewheels price is for the 800Wh 84V. Are the ebay prices, too? If yes, it would be worth it to buy from ebay. $1000 sounds much nicer for this wheel than $1350 which I find a hard sell. Extremely unlikely. The Chinese manufacturers don't care about something like CES. The next rumored wheel is a Gotway lighter commuter wheel/Tesla successor, kind of the thing you are looking for. Not sure when they will show it. February maybe? If you can wait that long (however long it takes)... and I expect it to be pricier than the options here.