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17 hours ago, RJohn said:

Been lurking here for a few days as I am considering one to replace my one and only euc, the molicel s18. 

Two things I changed on the s18...and want to bring to the t4; dnm dv22ar 200x55 coil shock and knobby tires.

Now I know the t4 from ewheels comes with an option for knobby tires so that's one less concern but about the shocks ? 

Who makes good , tought linkages for the t4 and will my s18 shock work with it ?

you can find lot of info in the description: https://youtu.be/Hvi44q-S9ts

knobby tire is default on T4 and it's great if you plan to off road a lot
you can also fit the 200x55 shock into default link, becouse once compressed to 190mm (assuming you can compress it somehow) you still have 45mm of stroke while T4 linkage only use 35, you'll need something like 750-1000lbs spring depending on your weight.

if you want ultimate off road wheel feel free to ask ;)

Untitled.jpg

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1 hour ago, RolluS said:

I went with 200mm AFAIC.

Google didn't find it - can you post link?

I have DMN rpc on s18 - it is not bad but I would love to have something better on T4.

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2 hours ago, EMA said:

you can find lot of info in the description: https://youtu.be/Hvi44q-S9ts

knobby tire is default on T4 and it's great if you plan to off road a lot
you can also fit the 200x55 shock into default link, becouse once compressed to 190mm (assuming you can compress it somehow) you still have 45mm of stroke while T4 linkage only use 35, you'll need something like 750-1000lbs spring depending on your weight.

if you want ultimate off road wheel feel free to ask ;)

Untitled.jpg

Yes...ultimate is what i am after off-road and jumping...

I'm glad I asked. I'm thinking of using the same one as in the s22. 200x56 will that be good ? I like coil shocks not air

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8 hours ago, daniel1234 said:

but it will not use all of the effective piston effective area.

Can you elaborate? Or do you mean stroke?

8 hours ago, daniel1234 said:

I would not recommend it from personal experience.

What were the negatives? 

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1 hour ago, techyiam said:

Can you elaborate? Or do you mean stroke?

What were the negatives? 

when using different sizes you need to know link dimensions and used stroke, otherwise bad thing could happens :D 

read my post above

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12 hours ago, techyiam said:

What were the negatives? 

I have two busted airshock at home from various experiments. Leakage is most probable outcome. 

Size of shock and linkage travel geometry maters. Springs are more forgiving than airshocks.

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On 11/27/2022 at 10:14 PM, Mango said:

Replaced the bearings on my T4 with FAG 6012 3rs c3 and packed them with waterproof grease. Did a test ride, sooooo smooth and quiet.

Also did a diy stator mod for my ZX motor using M4-12 pan head screws. The pan head has clearance over the motor cover so I didn't have to buy grub screws. Good peace of mind as my reseller is unsure when they are replacing with QS motors under warranty.

 

edit: I should mention with only 160 kms on the odometer, and just had ridden an hour on wet pavement (no rain), the motor bearings became seized the next day. LOL Begode quality.

any links to the EXACT bearing you used ?,.....whats a good price to pay for decent bearings

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9 hours ago, RJohn said:

any links to the EXACT bearing you used ?,.....whats a good price to pay for decent bearings

I bought from local store (B&B Bearings) so the price was quite high ($71.25 cdn each) but I can be assured they are genuine.

FG60122RSC3

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On 3/8/2023 at 8:30 AM, RJohn said:

any links to the EXACT bearing you used ?,.....whats a good price to pay for decent bearings

can refer to this post.

6012 refer to the bearing size.

RS = rubber seal. 2RS means rubber sealed on both sides.

Most would recommend you get either SKF or FAG brand bearings. These are the 2 largest manufacturers of bearings.

You can find other brands for much cheaper. But really, USD 10 is a small price to pay for peace of mind.

Here in Malaysia, FAG brand costs around USD13 and SKF cost about USD25.

 

Screenshot_20230309_095054_Shopee.jpg

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10 hours ago, RJohn said:

The ecodrift t4 disassembly video , at 4.29 shoes the bushings slipping out off the slider tubes....anybone run into this ?

I sort of did. But that was totally my fault for not ensuring that the bushings were properly seated when putting wheel back together.

Took off the pedal hanger, loosed the bottom assembly, put the bushing back properly and put everything back together.

Never had problem since.

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18 hours ago, RJohn said:

The ecodrift t4 disassembly video , at 4.29 shoes the bushings slipping out off the slider tubes....anybone run into this ?

Similar to @adrianqbs, it was coming out as a result of disassembling the wheel, but pretty easy to slide back in place. You need to tighten the screws to keep them in place which can be a bit finicky, because too loose and they slip out and too tight and your whole suspension locks up. So it's about finding the right balance a bit.

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On 3/6/2023 at 3:32 AM, EMA said:

if you want ultimate off road wheel feel free to ask

Do you mean this wonderful wheel on the picture could be up for sale??🤪

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where in Europe or AliExpress I can buy 18 MOS version with metal battery boxes ???
I'm looking for something produced in December after this month.
(sellers always say that their version is the last, but it's not the case.....I need it fast !)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005211256586.html   proof

 

 

Edited by Meserias
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How many miles are people getting in their T4?  My v1 with updated motor goes about 22 miles at speed and is pretty much done. My 16x can go much further so I’m assuming it’s because of the inefficiency of the suspension?

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1 hour ago, bracky72 said:

How many miles are people getting in their T4?  My v1 with updated motor goes about 22 miles at speed and is pretty much done. My 16x can go much further so I’m assuming it’s because of the inefficiency of the suspension?

I get on average 60-80km on a charge, depending on average speed and hilliness of the ride. I've not done a full range test.

 

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this is my first begode product.

So what is the middle position on the trolley handle for ?

And how do you actually use the kill switch next to the power switch.(are you supposed to press and keep it held in ?

 

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6 hours ago, bracky72 said:

How many miles are people getting in their T4?  My v1 with updated motor goes about 22 miles at speed and is pretty much done. My 16x can go much further so I’m assuming it’s because of the inefficiency of the suspension?

I always do 30 mile rides on hilly streets with plenty left over.  Havent drained to zero... but certain I could do 40-50 depending on if im cruising easy or hard.

Ive definitely noticed I can drain the battery a lot faster when I take off hard/fast 100% of the time.  The torque is fun. 

Your weight and PSI is gonna matter too.  Im at 32 PSI right now.

Off road is going to have shorter range.

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6 hours ago, bracky72 said:

How many miles are people getting in their T4?  My v1 with updated motor goes about 22 miles at speed and is pretty much done. My 16x can go much further so I’m assuming it’s because of the inefficiency of the suspension?

16x: 1554Wh

T4: 1800Wh

 

Cant deny the laws of physics.  Thats a measurement of energy.  Volts, etc, dont matter. They are only 3lb apart too.

Theoretically, the T4 should go longer, *if* you ride them exactly the same, on the exact same surface, at the exact same speed, with exact same acceleration, with the exact same tires, exact same PSI,  etc,etc,etc....

The T4 has the ability to drain the batteries faster though, if you use it. ( you likely will )

 

 

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12 hours ago, bracky72 said:

How many miles are people getting in their T4?  My v1 with updated motor goes about 22 miles at speed and is pretty much done. My 16x can go much further so I’m assuming it’s because of the inefficiency of the suspension?

The suspension doesn’t consume battery power. If anything, it can smoothen the bumps which could consume a slight bit less.

But 16X weighs something like 24.5kg, and I think T4 was 33kg. That’s 8.5kg of added weight, which does affect the range.

 Another aspect is the low battery voltage limit. 16X goes down to 3.15V per cell, Gotways traditionally only to 3.3V. I don’t know about the T4, but it could be a factor.

A knobby tire also gives you a good bit less range.

 Then, are you sure that you accelerate at the exact same rate on both wheels, and that you don’t go any faster on the T4? Similar pads on both?

 Also one can’t disregard the fact that GotWay doesn’t use much time when developing their wheels. I would imagine that motor controller optimizations are not much in the picture.

 And what do you mean with “Pretty much done”? What’s the voltage at that point?

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