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On 5/16/2023 at 2:02 PM, Waulnut said:

Anyone's T4 get some minor stuttering noise from the suspension area? I bounce on it while riding and hear some vibrating noise. I did adjust the small screws on the suspension too. It doesn't affect the ride though. 

Mine makes a bit of a rattle when I ride it off a curb, but has been doing so since my first ride and not getting worse.  I think it's fine...

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On 6/8/2023 at 4:15 AM, wheeldan said:

Hello fellow unicyclers!  My T4's speed alarm won't adjust anymore.  I was able to set it the first couple times, but it seems to be frozen at 33km/hr.  I've reloaded the app but nothing.  Any ideas?

Happened to me with EUCworld and old FW - I think I needed to set it via default begode app. Never happend again with newer FW.

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On 6/7/2023 at 10:21 PM, EMA said:

i'm working to an all in one design for handle and front bumper, so you don't have to use double side tape or velcro, just the battery screws

Does anyone have a screw pattern CAD file that you can share for T4 metal boxes? I'd like to DIY a plate with a laser cutter. It would be nice to have a reliable screw pattern to work with.

Edited by goodsignal
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/8/2023 at 4:15 AM, wheeldan said:

Hello fellow unicyclers!  My T4's speed alarm won't adjust anymore.  I was able to set it the first couple times, but it seems to be frozen at 33km/hr.  I've reloaded the app but nothing.  Any ideas?

I flashed a new firmware and started having that issue (unable to set apeed alarms). Downgraded to original older firmware (and updated Begode app) and everything went back to normal. Upgraded app probably didn't help but I mention it just in case :P

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm looking for the battery pack configuration for each of the 4 packs. I posted in the general forum, but thought it would be good to link it here.

 

Also, just want to ping my last post. I haven't found any yet and so much DIY is happening which all require hole patterns to design. And it's not like a hole patterns is secret or proprietary, right?

 

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A lot of DIYers don't know what they are doing (myself included).

I have no idea how to make a CAD pattern file, I just used fusion360 (which I barely understand) to make some fairings based on some measurements that aren't exact.

I had to print the fairings in 4 parts so I don't even know if the dimensions are correct. Not to mention the fact the differences in everyone's 3d printer and different materials etc... When I printed in different materials I had to adjust the measurements too. Design is still not finished yet.

And the file is so messy it barely makes any sense to me!

Just use the images to make a rough design first, then input the exact numbers later.

One thing I can tell you is that the top and bottom mounts have different offsets horizontally. If you are doing anything more than a simple box, there's lots of cutouts that are not symmetrical (battery cable, main post etc).

 

Edited by scotchtape
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10 hours ago, scotchtape said:

A lot of DIYers don't know what they are doing

I appreciate your reply and the reality adjustment :) I've done a lot of product design in CAD and forgot my bias.

The hole patterns are usually one of the simplest (2D) pieces of information in the more complex (3D) design. Having that on the ground plane as a reference makes everything so much easier, from design to troubleshooting to minimizing guesswork and reprints.

Tauntingly, there's a full 3D CAD file here of the entire wheel. Sadly, it doesn't seem there's any way to download it. It would be so useful as a base model for designing DIY components.

 

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20 hours ago, scotchtape said:

A lot of DIYers don't know what they are doing (myself included).

I have no idea how to make a CAD pattern file, I just used fusion360 (which I barely understand) to make some fairings based on some measurements that aren't exact.

I had to print the fairings in 4 parts so I don't even know if the dimensions are correct. Not to mention the fact the differences in everyone's 3d printer and different materials etc... When I printed in different materials I had to adjust the measurements too. Design is still not finished yet.

And the file is so messy it barely makes any sense to me!

Just use the images to make a rough design first, then input the exact numbers later.

One thing I can tell you is that the top and bottom mounts have different offsets horizontally. If you are doing anything more than a simple box, there's lots of cutouts that are not symmetrical (battery cable, main post etc).

 

There’s already T4 fairing available online to print. Why not use it?

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On 7/5/2023 at 11:00 PM, Cyph said:

There’s already T4 fairing available online to print. Why not use it?

I've only found two T4 fairings online. One of them costs money and I don't like the design, so not keen on paying for the whole thing. The free one is completely absent of screw holes, so is useless. Otherwise, that would be an okay way to extract a hole pattern with a little extra work.

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Hi just tried to install the firmware via Begode app. It beeped but nothing happened. I think I bricked my T4 (metal battery). Now is like dead. I disengaged the battery and then put them back on but nothing. Any suggestion? (A new mother board probably?)

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I tried with an iPhone but nothing happened. I’ll try later with an android phone. The strange thing is that the Bluetooth connection is working (I can see my T4 in the app) and the wheel is off

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I have heard holding down the power button while updating the firmware has helped some to unbrick their wheel.  If it is visible in the app can you restart the firmware update?  If not I have heard some have had success holding down the power button and restarting the firmware update.

@phatmike

Edited by Paradox
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My T4 is back! I repeated this combination (lift button - power button and then lift button several times in quick succession, holding the power button at the same time) and it worked.

I tried a lot for a couple of days and the second day with the help of some friends (Thanks @EMA!) it worked just like that

Edited by phatmike
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On 7/9/2023 at 4:17 AM, goodsignal said:

I've only found two T4 fairings online. One of them costs money and I don't like the design, so not keen on paying for the whole thing. The free one is completely absent of screw holes, so is useless. Otherwise, that would be an okay way to extract a hole pattern with a little extra work.

It works well with Velcro along the front and rear edge of the battery boxes. I’ve been using them for quite some time without issue. Basic but functional. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

What's the trick to setting the right torque on the set screw that secures the two collars/bushings on the slider stanchions. I had it over finger tight and it locked them up..

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2 hours ago, RJohn said:

What's the trick to setting the right torque on the set screw that secures the two collars/bushings on the slider stanchions. I had it over finger tight and it locked them up..

RJohn,  i suspect your best source of info on torque settings would be a local mtb bike shop.  since the euc suspension kinda like mtb front forks to begin with...

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5 hours ago, RJohn said:

What's the trick to setting the right torque on the set screw that secures the two collars/bushings on the slider stanchions. I had it over finger tight and it locked them up..

Forget the mtb shop IMO - they won't have the slightest clue what they are doing with T4 suspension - in fact if you take a T4 in to them it will probably be the first time they have even seen one unless they also sell EUCs...

People struggle with setting those tension inserts, but the trick, if there is one, is to adjust all 4 at the same time by roughly the same amount, so if you start with it too tight and locked up, loosen each screw by a quarter turn and see if the suspension has become loose enough to move. Keep repeating that until movement is possible but feels quite firm. If you detect play in the suspension it has become too loose and needs tightening slightly.

 

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I did some tweaking to my T4's suspension which seems to have made a really big improvement. I have removed the rubber bushings that come installed by default in the lower part, lubed the sliders and adjusted the shock pressure slightly. Works way better on the trail now, especially small bump sensitivity, so I think it's mostly due to the sliders being lubed (I now regret changing 3 things at a time without testing them out individually).

And now for the bad part, I have use some bike lube which appears to be pretty wet and as such attracts a lot of dirt and grit. I want to completely remove the sliders, clean them up and reapply a proper dry lube, but I haven't seen any resources showing how to remove the sliders.

Is it enough to remove the motor and the pedal supports, will the sliders just slide out ?

 

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2 hours ago, sttwister said:

Is it enough to remove the motor and the pedal supports, will the sliders just slide out ?

No. See below. 

I don't own a Begode suspension wheel.

However, the Begode suspension sliders use graphite impregnated brass or bronze bushings. You may not have to disassemble and slide out the stanchion tubes to clean out the web lubricant. Perhaps you can lay the wheel on its side, and deflate, or remove the air shock entirely. Then you can use a rag or something to absorb the wet lubricant on the stanchion tubes as you move the suspension through its travel.

Link to Begode T4 Teardown Photos

Monokoleso-Begode-T4-razbiraem-56.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by techyiam
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2 hours ago, techyiam said:

However, the Begode suspension sliders use graphite impregnated brass or bronze bushings. You may not have to disassemble and slide out the stanchion tubes to clean out the web lubricant. Perhaps you can lay the wheel on its side, and deflate, or remove the air shock entirely. Then you can use a rag or something to absorb the wet lubricant on the stanchion tubes as you move the suspension through its travel.

I did clean the visible part of the stanchions with the shock deflated, however I'm afraid there might be a lot of dirt collected inside the sliders that I cannot reach.

I've seen the photos / video that you linked to, however they don't remove the sliders off the stanchions. The only video I've seen that had them removed was from the top, which means doing pretty much a complete teardown of the entire wheel. I'm hoping it's possible to do it by disassembling the lower part only. I might try it the next few days if I have the time, and report back.

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2 hours ago, sttwister said:

I've seen the photos / video that you linked to, however they don't remove the sliders off the stanchions. The only video I've seen that had them removed was from the top, which means doing pretty much a complete teardown of the entire wheel. I'm hoping it's possible to do it by disassembling the lower part only. I might try it the next few days if I have the time, and report back.

I see what you mean now.

I wouldn't be able to help you in that regard, except at the very minimum, you would need to disconnect the linkage from the outer slider tubes, and the motor wires.

However, are you certain stanchions removal is necessary? The tight tolerances are only between the bushings and the stanchions, not between the outer slider tube and the stanchions. Can't you just remove the bushings and clean? Also, once the top and bottom bushings are out, can you not spray WD40 down from the top to wash down any dirt particles out from the bottom? 

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