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I unplugged one phase at a time to test if a phase was broken. 

The begode app won't report a broken phase. 

From testing, the yellow phase is a issue as there doesn't seem to be a difference between it being plugged in or not. 

I'm guessing the controller is broken

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4 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

I'm not familiar with the t4 but the phase terminals don't look clearly marked, are you sure you have each of them in the correct spots?

I'm pretty sure. Have confirmed the order with multiple people and also the phase wires are different lengths so it's hard to put them in the wrong order. 

What would happen if the phase wires were in the wrong order? It seems to be able to balance upright, just delayed. 

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On 11/25/2023 at 7:38 AM, Eyss said:

I've had a look at the controller and I can't see any obvious signs of damage.

If it's not a hall sensor could one of the phases be dead? Is there a way to test that? 

 

You can measure resistance with a multimeter between phases to verify that.

I have one T4 board v3 with blown mosfets. The wheel would cause resistance to spin. What you describing sounds more like control board failure. 

 

Edited by daniel1234
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7 hours ago, Eyss said:

I'm pretty sure. Have confirmed the order with multiple people and also the phase wires are different lengths so it's hard to put them in the wrong order. 

What would happen if the phase wires were in the wrong order? It seems to be able to balance upright, just delayed. 

It would spin in to wrong direction if there is not any other safety feature, I am not sure how would behave new firmware with that (I killed my T4 already) - you did put the cable back from left side, right?

Is the wheel on, can you re-flash firmware? It could be bug/feature in firmware.

Edited by daniel1234
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It finally happened... :(

My original V1 T4 bearings are starting to rattle, probably rusted.

Those of you who have changed their bearings, do you have a recommendation for a good set? Also, is it safe to continue riding the T4 in the meantime or could it damage the motor? It is just a minor grind sound for now, still seems to spin OK otherwise.

Also, for those who have done it themselves, any tips on the procedure specifically regarding the T4?

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Secondly, what is the current recommendation regarding the T4 firmware?

I currently have the custom firmware by Freestyler installed. Do any of the updated Begode versions fix the issues that were present? Progressive tiltback at set PWM?

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1 hour ago, pHghost said:

Also, for those who have done it themselves, any tips on the procedure specifically regarding the T4?

The motor hall sensor is on the side opposite from the cable. It's near the edge so be careful prying the motor covers off. 

Roger EUC has a alright video on doing it on a master (basically the same as a t4)

Unsure on bearings. Alien rides sells supposedly a better one. I bought nsk ones and have printed a bearing seal. 

You can repack the bearings and they'll be fine for a while. This is a lot easier than replacing the bearings. Pry the rubber covers off, scrap the grease out and put new grease on. 

I damaged something when I did mine and am currently troubleshooting it.

Edited by Eyss
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Had a low speed tumble with my T4. It was fine, just had to turn it off and on so it would balance again. Then I noticed that the mileage had reset to zero. Very strange, and now I'm wondering if I should be concerned about the battery? I thought this was supposed to have BMS, but the app doesn't show any useful info. No values show. I rode it after this and didn't note anything unusual. Still feel uneasy - should I be?

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21 minutes ago, Saboteur_ZA said:

Still feel uneasy - should I be?

In my opinion, EUC's should be treated like aircraft since the chance to hurt/kill yourself is fairly high if a failure takes place. So , i would at least take the wheel apart and make sure all of the wires,plugs etc. are properly connected and not loose. Others may tell you to just mail it in and don't worry about it but since it would only take you an hr or so to check everything, i feel it's worth the time to mitigate some risk.

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7 hours ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

 i would at least take the wheel apart and make sure all of the wires,plugs etc. are properly connected and not loose.

That sounds like good advice. However, I've never taken one of these apart and doubt my technical ability to do so. But taking it in to be checked, that I can do!

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I borrowed a controller from a friend to test my t4. With a new controller is works perfectly fine so definitely something with the controller.

Sucks I need another part but glad to know it should be fixed with a new part. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

OK, thanks! That's good to know.

That is the reason I originally installed Freestyl3r's custom firmware, for the PWM alarm function, which was not present in the older official firmware.

Now just have to pray the wheel won't brick while updating it, LOL. The T4 is terrible in that regard. :unsure:

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Wow, this is actually amazing. Love the pedal dip in turn function! Much better stability when leaning into a sharp turn! And there seems to be better pedal stability overall. Only thing is it seems that braking is a bit weaker now, but might just be about getting used to the new setup and adjusting how hard back I lean.

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Hi,

@pHghost sorry for late answer.

 

Once calibrated flat with a bubble level, I like to have 4 for inclination, and 5~6 for dip in turn

Now changing main board from v1-v2 hybrid to V3. Does anyone has the header labels please ?

PXL_20231114_073039538.thumb.jpg.207b84e8e7d86a47b9c55aed69fb19bb.jpg

Edited by RolluS
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  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, Brendan "nog3" Halliday said:

I'm not insane and that's wrong, right?

Not ONLY wrong, but surely this has to be dangerous as well. No doubt forum members with battery knowledge will chime in on this too, but as I posted on Discord: "ONLY BegodeWay" could drop a major oversight on this scale!

Edited by fbhb
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5 hours ago, Brendan "nog3" Halliday said:

I've noticed the front is 50E cells, rear is 40T

Well that's only a few steps behind forgetting to put a wheel on it...

I bet it happened on a change of shift, when somebody was swapping out packs and went home forgetting he'd only done the rear set... next day, comes in, only checks the rear ones and puts it in the 'done' pile maybe ? Why the QA didn't catch it later a bit less understandable / more worrying...

Edited by Cerbera
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  • 1 month later...
On 12/31/2023 at 5:02 PM, Cerbera said:

Well that's only a few steps behind forgetting to put a wheel on it...

I bet it happened on a change of shift, when somebody was swapping out packs and went home forgetting he'd only done the rear set... next day, comes in, only checks the rear ones and puts it in the 'done' pile maybe ? Why the QA didn't catch it later a bit less understandable / more worrying...

My local dealer covered me for a replacement, but yeah there was definitely one wrong pack. Now I get the full joy of a 50E saggy wheel.

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1 hour ago, v8nice said:

It's normal that the end of the battery is around 79.6v?3.3v per cell, that's a lot of unused capacity!

IMG-20240221-WA0000.jpg

Is this when it beeps or when it tilts back? My Master V4 beeps at 3.3 and tilts back at 3. Both are probably fine casual defaults, but would definitely be nice to get a low power mode since there's still a fair bit of capacity left at those warnings.

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