Meserias Posted May 1, 2023 Share Posted May 1, 2023 I have tried to install latest Master v2 firmware ending with 904 over my 903 but with no success in Begode app and EUCWorld app.... firmware it's looking that it's gets loaded and installed but when I start the wheel I still have 903 .... it the same on yours ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koto Posted May 2, 2023 Share Posted May 2, 2023 On 5/1/2023 at 11:11 AM, Meserias said: I have tried to install latest Master v2 firmware ending with 904 over my 903 but with no success in Begode app and EUCWorld app.... firmware it's looking that it's gets loaded and installed but when I start the wheel I still have 903 .... it the same on yours ? Yes, we all have this issue. I have asked to Milli. She asked to a Begode engineer but they seem not to be aware of this problem. My reseller have also noticed it many times. So I think at this time there is nothing else to do. Let's say firmware 903 seems to work fine. It is just annoying to see that we cannot install the only firmware available on the begode store which should suit to our wheels. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingGrandpa Posted May 5, 2023 Share Posted May 5, 2023 Latest production batch has a "flexible" (adjustable) linkage... interesting. https://ecodrift.ru/2023/05/04/begode-master-razbiraem-2/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUCzero Posted May 10, 2023 Share Posted May 10, 2023 That is the linkage they released files on months ago. And the one I got made elsewhere. Better. Still not GOOD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sffish Posted May 10, 2023 Share Posted May 10, 2023 1 hour ago, EUCzero said: That is the linkage they released files on months ago. And the one I got made elsewhere. Better. Still not GOOD Do you know the difference between using the 2 holes in the linkage (the holes by the Flexible text)? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC Custom Power-Pads Posted May 11, 2023 Share Posted May 11, 2023 I have the latest Master with the flexible linkage and I am currently testing various combinations. With my existing shock Fox RP23 190-51 or with the original was unfortunately no satisfactory result achievable, because still too little (max 31mm) Shock travel is used, no matter which of the two holes you use. I also have the NyloNove linkage, but that requires a 200mm long shock. With a bit of luck I'll get a RockShox Monarch RT3 200-51mm today. I hope to get a shock stroke of 41mm with full 70mm suspension travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUCzero Posted May 11, 2023 Share Posted May 11, 2023 On 5/10/2023 at 10:48 PM, sffish said: Do you know the difference between using the 2 holes in the linkage (the holes by the Flexible text)? Thanks. Using the outer two holes will give more travel to the shock. Almost 32mm I think. Inner two holes is so called soft, outer hard. But only outer two is to be considered. Just go lower in PSI if to hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sffish Posted May 12, 2023 Share Posted May 12, 2023 2 hours ago, EUCzero said: Using the outer two holes will give more travel to the shock. Almost 32mm I think. Inner two holes is so called soft, outer hard. But only outer two is to be considered. Just go lower in PSI if to hard. Is it hard to change the holes once a shock is installed? I would think just releasingthe air from the shock, and then just reinstalling one end into the different set of holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUCzero Posted May 12, 2023 Share Posted May 12, 2023 (edited) The trick with the begode shock. If you need to make it a little shorter while mounting or similar, take out the pressure. Tighten the Rebound adjustment to fully closed compress the shock to the length needed As long as the rebound is closed it will stay in the compressed length. So you can "probably" change while shock is in there, but I did not try as I see NO POINT AT ALL ( ) using the "soft" holes. As this will just use less of the shock travel. It is just bad. Dont like hard? Just release pressure a bit in the shock and it is not hard. Edited May 12, 2023 by EUCzero 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aztek Posted May 13, 2023 Share Posted May 13, 2023 On 5/12/2023 at 1:04 AM, EUCzero said: outer two holes By outer you mean the ones further away from.the word "flexible"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted May 13, 2023 Share Posted May 13, 2023 The Master there, fully stripped down in all its beautiful simplicity Not much to go wrong, you'd think.... pffft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mango Posted May 15, 2023 Share Posted May 15, 2023 What temps are you guys getting on your Masters in 25°c-30°c weather riding semi-aggressively. I had my first overheat beep on first ride in a while and temps were hovering around 50°c which seems high. I haven't been riding my Master for thr last two months and perhaps the thermal pad is no longer working as intended. I just bought some thermal paste and will (again) do a full teardown of the wheel to inspect and maintain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted May 15, 2023 Share Posted May 15, 2023 (edited) In the Winter my Master rarely goes more than 10 degrees over ambient, even if I am pelting it about the place, but as Spring has arrived, and ambient temps get warmer, so the does the amount the Master strays over the 10 degree rule. Yesterday, on a slow, but savage climb uphill with ambient temp of 18C it was pushing 32 / 33. I live in the UK, where it hasn't got hotter than that yet since I've had it. My limited XP of that wheel suggests its cooling is excellent, unless blocked by aftermarket stuff. I know the Grizzla fairings don't make much difference with the big holes at the front, but they do make some, for example... I have my temp alarm set for 60C, and have never heard it, though we'll see how that changes in the occasional heatwave we tend to get in the Summers. Not looking forward to that TBH. My armour is hot enough during the pleasant mid-range temps we are getting now, yet I am loathed to lose any of it when the real hot days get here. Edited May 15, 2023 by Cerbera Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magman116 Posted May 16, 2023 Share Posted May 16, 2023 Here in central Florida with temps around 23C, I took a ride yesterday of about 14km of very aggressive riding. After the ride I checked the temp of the Master, it showed 36.6C. I rode about 7km on the road ways with speeds between 64-77kmh and the rest was trail riding with some small jumps. Mine stays fairly cool no matter how hard I ride. I am riding with the Grizzla Fairing system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainproton Posted May 16, 2023 Share Posted May 16, 2023 On 5/20/2022 at 4:35 PM, Tawpie said: Guesses on why the varistor on the control board? Those things degrade with use so if it's there to deal with routine events, it won't do so for very long. Seems an odd component to cold solder to the board. Have you figured out this answer? And mine just burned out the other day... Was wondering the specs of it so I can replace it and see if that fixes my motherboard.. it seems to be the only thing wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mango Posted May 21, 2023 Share Posted May 21, 2023 On 5/15/2023 at 11:55 AM, Mango said: What temps are you guys getting on your Masters in 25°c-30°c weather riding semi-aggressively. I had my first overheat beep on first ride in a while and temps were hovering around 50°c which seems high. I haven't been riding my Master for thr last two months and perhaps the thermal pad is no longer working as intended. I just bought some thermal paste and will (again) do a full teardown of the wheel to inspect and maintain. Just removed the stock thermal pad from the control board and replaced with Arctic thermal paste (8 grams of paste). The Master is running much cooler. At ambient temps of 17°c and riding aggressively, the board temp has not risen above 30°c so the paste has been a success. Master runs much cooler and seems to accelerate and perform better than before. A much needed service item I think all Master owners will need to perform soon. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted May 22, 2023 Share Posted May 22, 2023 (edited) On 5/22/2023 at 12:28 AM, Mango said: Just removed the stock thermal pad from the control board and replaced with Arctic thermal paste (Edit: The following refers to a thermal pad in a different location. Disregard this post!) You know, the pad is there for a reason. It provides electric isolation, which paste does not. And to my understanding the back plates of the mosfets need to be isolated from each other in how they are connected in EUCs. Why else would they use the pads in the first place? Worst case scenario, you’ll get a totally sudden mosfet fry and a cutoff when they finally make enough contact. Edited May 23, 2023 by mrelwood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techyiam Posted May 22, 2023 Share Posted May 22, 2023 3 hours ago, mrelwood said: And to my understanding the back plates of the mosfets need to be isolated from each other in how they are connected in EUCs. Why else would they use the pads in the first place? Uh-oh, you mean somebody neglected to put mica insulators. Roger EUC in the comment section of his video covering this topic relating specifically to the Begode Master said that the electrical insulation of the mainboard aluminum substrate and the metal controller housing (heatsink) is not necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted May 23, 2023 Share Posted May 23, 2023 Ah, sorry! I thought we were talking about a thermal pad between the mosfets and the heatsink. Definitely, no pad needed between the two heatsinks. And surely much better without, as long as the surfaces reach each other fully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mango Posted May 23, 2023 Share Posted May 23, 2023 If between mosfet and heatsink, yeah that's a risky operation I wouldn't attempt. Better to just buy a new control board and not risk a cutout. Anyway, looks like heatsink thermal pad replacement is another service schedule item that's going to affect all Master owners at some point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted May 24, 2023 Share Posted May 24, 2023 Suspension upgrade ring pack available (UK initially) !! Just ordered a set of these from e-rides, and thought I should let everyone else know given the recent cases of suspension problems... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted May 24, 2023 Share Posted May 24, 2023 2 hours ago, Cerbera said: Suspension upgrade ring pack available (UK initially) !! Just ordered a set of these from e-rides, and thought I should let everyone else know given the recent cases of suspension problems... I'll just leave this here. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5799376 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted May 24, 2023 Share Posted May 24, 2023 (edited) 9 minutes ago, Rawnei said: I'll just leave this here. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5799376 Yeah, but metal, and with the nice slippy graphite inserts - should do a lot more to reinforce those parts than 3D print would surely, and be a lot more durable ? Interestingly, the metal ones seem a lot thicker than the plastic ones, so much so that it doesn't look like there is enough gap for them in Kevin's video !! Edited May 24, 2023 by Cerbera Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUCzero Posted May 25, 2023 Share Posted May 25, 2023 Ronnies solution do NOT replace the bushings. It only keeps them in place. The original bushings are the same as you see in the video. Only difference is the metal plate you squeese in between. And that is what Ronnies mod do as well. If the bushings are worn out.... buy new ones. From Kevin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted May 25, 2023 Share Posted May 25, 2023 Knowing how small the tolerances are in there and how big those metal inserts are I won't be surprised if it will seize up the whole suspension system by inserting those unless the bushings that Kevin are showing there have smaller dimensions than stock. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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