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Begode Master 134V 2400WH Suspension


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3 hours ago, Cerbera said:

I see, I see.... Hmm. No, the hotspots I was afraid of were potential little air gaps between the centre of the mosfet board (as a whole) and the metal bottom of the tray it is meant to be thermal matted to. There were reports that because it was only 4 corner screws used to hold mainboard down that this caused a rise / bow in the centre, beyond what the thermal mat could bridge and therefore an air gap.

Some of those people who had fires reported that their fires started in burnt out mosfets over those areas where the air gap was likely to have been. So that is what your procedure addresses, if we're on the same page ?!

But I also accept what you are saying re contact between individual FETs and the board as an additional problem / consideration, but that is one is a bridge too far for me to try and address myself ! :)

I might have missed it but what are the temperatures you are seeing that has you worried?

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18 hours ago, Rawnei said:

I might have missed it but what are the temperatures you are seeing that has you worried?

I am not seeing any temps that worry me on mine - mine won't go more than 10 degrees above ambient no matter what the wheel is doing !

But I have read about 1 or 2 crashes / main board fires where the temperatures reported fine but individual mosfets were burning out regardless, which has been subsequently attributed to that area of the mainboard not making proper thermal contact with the case. But that was conjecture, and as Tim points out - that could equally be down to ropey sinking between the mosfets themselves and the board they are attached to. My concern was merely that there is a possibility for components to overheat while the temps report normal. Both Dawn and Roger were appalled to find such a large area of air gap when they removed their mainboards, which is what prompted them to go in thick and heavy with the thermal paste of their own.

@Timwheel's area of air gap, which we can see by the matte coloured area surrounded by the oily residue (where contact was made) was huge !

image.thumb.png.f97402b20cf52c39c452b54f01e9459a.png

Look at that - MOST of that tray is showing the air gap. There has only been contact between that thermal pad and the tray at the corners where the screws were.

Edited by Cerbera
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:(Ā Ā Hi everybody ,
I have a problem with Begode Master 1 version! In other parts, there are no problems at all, but the display does not work immediately when it is cold. Now I got an updated power board for this display from the importer, which should eliminate the display turning off at cold temperatures. I opened my Begode Master and it must be a very old version! ? Is anyone aware of such a thing and could this detail still be hidden somewhere? I can't identify from the outside where it could fit. I'll immediately addĀ a link to the photosĀ where you can see the nature of these details.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HCNMSeH6Nv59pkGn9

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3 minutes ago, Raptor said:

:(Ā Ā Hi everybody ,
I have a problem with Begode Master 1 version! In other parts, there are no problems at all, but the display does not work immediately when it is cold. Now I got an updated power board for this display from the importer, which should eliminate the display turning off at cold temperatures. I opened my Begode Master and it must be a very old version! ? Is anyone aware of such a thing and could this detail still be hidden somewhere? I can't identify from the outside where it could fit. I'll immediately addĀ a link to the photosĀ where you can see the nature of these details.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HCNMSeH6Nv59pkGn9

You should have gotten one of the small plugin boards and a new charging one. I haven't got mine yet to show.

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1 hour ago, Raptor said:

could this detail still be hidden somewhere?

On V2+ boards it is easily accessible near the front. On older main boards it is not alas, but rather hidden on the bottom layer in one corner where it is very hard to get to without separating the boards, although it is on the edge (near a corner I recall) so I think the guy in the video I saw levered that edge up, and tweezered out the old sub-board, and the new one in, which was fiddly ! Of course I can't find the post / video now where I saw someone fitting one to an older board, and I don't have one myself to reference alas, but the info is out there somewhere !

So using your photos, I thinkĀ it is here, but one layer down. I may be wrong though ! :/Ā 

image.thumb.png.92d3d7afb93761ab37cf13c0e2dbaf9e.png

Ā 

Edited by Cerbera
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55 minutes ago, Raptor said:

:(Ā Ā Hi everybody ,
I have a problem with Begode Master 1 version! In other parts, there are no problems at all, but the display does not work immediately when it is cold. Now I got an updated power board for this display from the importer, which should eliminate the display turning off at cold temperatures. I opened my Begode Master and it must be a very old version! ? Is anyone aware of such a thing and could this detail still be hidden somewhere? I can't identify from the outside where it could fit. I'll immediately addĀ a link to the photosĀ where you can see the nature of these details.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HCNMSeH6Nv59pkGn9

It could be sandwiched in-between the big boards, best to check with your reseller unless someone here already swapped this part on a V1.

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4 hours ago, Raptor said:

Is anyone aware of such a thing and could this detail still be hidden somewhere?

What's this? Looks to have the same connector and pin labels. I'd check with your distributor to be sure though.

ca18a8e2-ede0-4dc5-8775-c920ae1abe39_2.jpeg.28d56151298983d23ab19f319386b6dc.jpeg

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28 minutes ago, redfoxdude said:

What's this? Looks to have the same connector and pin labels. I'd check with your distributor to be sure though.

ca18a8e2-ede0-4dc5-8775-c920ae1abe39_2.jpeg.28d56151298983d23ab19f319386b6dc.jpeg

Thanks ! It would be nice to know for sure. Since the contacts are on the bottom of the new one, would it fit between the display?

We also asked Begode. I'm waiting, maybe I'll get an answer from there too.

Ā 

Edited by Raptor
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4 hours ago, redfoxdude said:

What's this? Looks to have the same connector and pin labels. I'd check with your distributor to be sure though.

ca18a8e2-ede0-4dc5-8775-c920ae1abe39_2.jpeg.28d56151298983d23ab19f319386b6dc.jpeg

Pretty sure that's not it. The old one looks really very like the replacement one.

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Just pulled my Master out of storage for the winter and took it for a spin after installing the new charge board and display board and everything is good.

I've seen posts about people bricking their Masters while trying to update firmware and I'm very leary of updating mine now.Ā  There are a few Master firmware versions listed in the app (V2.2 2.3 2.4 and Master_G20), so I'm unsure of which version is best/latest, or appropriate for my Master.

If I'm not having issues with my current firmware. Should I even consider upgrading the firmware?

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2 hours ago, Grimm10 said:

If I'm not having issues with my current firmware. Should I even consider upgrading the firmware?

I'm in the same boat - really don't want a bricked machine or a whole week spent trying to unbrick it ! My factory installed firmware has been absolutely fine so far EXCEPT for 2 things - it does not send correct temperature report over bluetooth to EUC World, and also it has the thousand mile bug where the miles ridden display won't go over 999.99 miles. I am told later firmware fixes both those things, but neither are severe enough to tempt me to try. Nor have I ever seen any decent explainer text for what firmware has what change / features. I'm even wary of calibrating mine, which it does need, but again - no instructions anywhere I've seen for the Master - only for really old Gotways, and I am not sure if the procedure has changed. It is one of the most annoying things for me about owning a Gotway !

Edited by Cerbera
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I'm now passing the 1500km mark on my V2 with absolutely no issues, except the overheating that I took care of.

Ā 

I am an extreme rider, I overtorque the master routinely under braking. I'm not too tall nor too heavy (84kgs naked, 1m77) but I have broad shoulders that make me very wind sensitive. Under heavy wind, I tend to sit a lot and deccelerate to 50 km/h to get up again, but when sitted, sustaining 70 km/h with wind is doable if it doesn't vary too much.

The power of this wheel is absolutely insane. It gives more than the Sherman Max I had, that I overpowered all the time even though I loved its rugged nature. I can outaccelerate anything in Paris, and I can go from point A to point B faster than anything in the city. When I'm riding, I tend to forget that this is a begode wheel and that some masters have cut out before... I do feel very stable at high speed, the suspension is enough to forgive a few judgment errors for potholes but could definitely be improved. The pedals are easily the best I've ever had, the light could be a bit brighter and the bips are a bit too dull to hear at very high speed, where they are needed.

I have the custom firmware with 70% pwm titltback, but the master has so much headroom that I rarely bump into it. The rare cases where i've Heard it is when riding under 40% battery and full tilt at 60 km/h. Else, yesterday I came back from a 30 km very high speed ride with 35% battery at cruising speed, and at 60-65 seated it didn't trigger the 70% beeps and tiltback... I had to check the freespin to make sure that the firmware wasn't bugging, but it did freespin to 99 km/h still at that % of battery. Very impressive...

But here's the kicker: I know I can't get much more than 30/40 km of high speed range (city riding, always accelerating as fast as possible to 65/70 km/h) . It is sufficient for most usage, true, but when you are riding below 40%, even when you know you'll have a beep much earlier than before (70% PWM) it still feels very scary to ride 60-65...

I might upgrade to the Sherman S (but I fear that the torque won't be enough...) or the EX30, which should be the torquiest option for me with the c40 motor, with a 3600wh battery that should cover my need (My most demanding trip would be 50 km at very high speed).

Edited by Timwheel
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1 hour ago, Timwheel said:

When I'm riding, I tend to forget that this is a begode wheel and that some masters have cut out before... I do feel very stable at high speed, the suspension is enough to forgive a few judgment errors for potholes but could definitely be improved.

What tyre you got on that, Tim ?

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8 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

What tyre you got on that, Tim ?

A street CST tire :)

IMG20230323140816-min.thumb.jpg.889f8ba25299ea1331bbe691a201d17c.jpgIMG20230323140821-min.thumb.jpg.6ee119680b4a111db8fe828484010d9d.jpgIMG20230323140800-min.thumb.jpg.a6f565a4dabcad2c5015f5a2ae339b15.jpg

Edited by Timwheel
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Good pics ! That tyre looks decent. I really must fit my CityCrip Extra instead of persisting with that horrible knobby, (even though I am fully used to its weirdnesses by now !) Did you find your stability at speed increased much after swapping them ?

You have done very well to keep your rear light intact with that much mileage on the wheel !

Battery casing screw blocks holding up OK for you ?

Edited by Cerbera
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That is the best Master mod ever Ronnie.
The front? Is it TPU? Lots of supports while printing?
I am now motivated to copy the idea. Thanx. The front grab handle is a superb idea.

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2 hours ago, EUCzero said:

That is the best Master mod ever Ronnie.
The front? Is it TPU? Lots of supports while printing?
I am now motivated to copy the idea. Thanx. The front grab handle is a superb idea.

TPU: Yes 95A

Lots of support: Standing up so that most gaps are upwards for less support and use cura tree support but you betcha it requires a lot of supports, 50+ hour print

2 hours ago, Magman116 said:

@RawneiĀ I love the front cover with handle and updated light.Ā  I have the same light, but having figured a mount for it yet.Ā  Any chance you would upload the STL files to your Thingiverse page?

Nope I'm sorry this was a personal project something I did only for myself, at least for now, might change my mind in the future šŸ˜…

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello guys, just checking in on those that did replace the power distribution board : do every one of you see battery dropping whilst unused ?

Thanks :)

Ā 

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2 hours ago, Timwheel said:

Hello guys, just checking in on those that did replace the power distribution board : do every one of you see battery dropping whilst unused ?

Thanks :)

Ā 

Yes. I think many people have experienced the same thing and not only with the Master.

Edited by koto
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So...

I had already replaced the linkage with the new Begode linkage where you have 2 options (medium and hard). Now of them are really hard, ask you can just lower the pressure in the shock to compensate. What the new linkage actually do is utilizing a larger shock stroke. From 23-24mm to now 35mm if I remember correctly.
And it worked. The original air shock worked better. But then, unrelated I got a leak in the shock.... Grrrr.

So. Getting fed up with faulty original shocks, I ordered a cheap coil shock. 291R and 22AR was the two to choose between, but 291R had shortest delivery time, so that was the one I ordered. Well knowing that that model would require me to modify the Master to make it fit. (Se Marty Backe videoĀ ).


EXA 291R 190mm 1000LBS
Modding took 1 hour.Ā 
I am 70kg naked. Got the 1000LBS coil. Begode "new linkage" hard.
Feels a tad hard on the smallest bumps, but very nice on medium and bigger. So it will work well off road and jumping. For pure asphalt riding 850LBS would probably work better for me. I guess original linkage need 1500LBS coil to give similar feeling.

I do not recommend the EXA 291R due to the necessity of modding (filing down the attachment point for the shock) the Master. I am told the DNM 22ar fit right on

Edited by EUCzero
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Finally getting my Master into a state where I can start to enjoy it, I've done a lot of work on it to improve many aspects of the wheel and finally it starts to feel like I don't have to think about bunch of stuff I need to improve.

But there is one thing that really irks me, I feel like I get really poor range on it, I'm mainly comparing it to my S22 since they have similar specs, subjectively it feels like my S22 has a lot more range to give me and comparing my EUC World tours looking at battery levels kind of confirms that. I can't for the life of me understand why, Master is supposed to have a bit more battery than the S22, overall I ride similar on both so similar top and average speeds, is the Master just not as effective in operation?

Here's my latest tour from today, was about 5c outside today, not riding excessively fast and already touching ~10%/108v after not even riding 50km (I have my 0% set to 106v which is when wheel will start alerting about low battery, I set my 0% like this for all my wheels): https://euc.world/tour/620238052420149

Again subjectively speaking it feels like similar to the type of range I expected from my old MSP HT but of course I ride a little bit faster on the Master so it's a tough comparison there but I do expect more than this.

So I dunno, it's the last thing I'm not that happy with.

For comparison here's some tours on the S22.

January, less speed but much much colder outside (minus degrees celsius), more distance, 40%+ battery remaining: https://euc.world/tour/617624102934248

November, cold outside, a lot of distance but less speed, 40% battery remaining: https://euc.world/tour/615583434341266

August, S22 decent speeds, lots more distance, 45% battery remaining: https://euc.world/tour/613105140623365

August, Master for direct comparison similar speeds but less range and noticeably less battery remaining: https://euc.world/tour/615525305601319

I'm usually the first person to say that it's just X capacity nothing magical going on but the difference is just so big here and I've noticed it many times now and I wish I could explain it by me riding faster on one wheel over the other but I don't think I am so I'm at a loss here.

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2 hours ago, Rawnei said:

I'm at a loss here.

Just ideas; I notice when I go harder (not faster) on my S18 the range is a lot less than when I accelerate gently and take it easy. Maybe you ride the Master harder but at the same average/top speeds without realising it or it could be one wheel is more efficient or accurate than the other? so many things so hard to tell.Ā 

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