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Begode Master 134V 2400WH Suspension


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1 hour ago, spitfire1337 said:

To make matters worse they keep changing the mounting pattern too. This one I was repairing the original controller/screen went together and mounted to the chassis like a sandwich. This new one has 4 mounting holes in completely different positions and had no way for me to mount the screen since the previous one had standoffs coming off the controller that mounted it. I was able to make it work by drilling/tapping new mounts to the chassis and partially disassemble the new controller "sandwich", use some shorter screws and nylon spacers to make my own standoffs for the screen. Was a lot of unnecessary work for a controller swap.

That really is unprofessional working practice - I can live with them changing the boards themselves, but altering the mountings now is just making repairs needlessly protracted and difficult. Big minus points to Begode from me there, and I'm normally quite forgiving of them. 

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1 hour ago, spitfire1337 said:

To make matters worse they keep changing the mounting pattern too. This one I was repairing the original controller/screen went together and mounted to the chassis like a sandwich. This new one has 4 mounting holes in completely different positions and had no way for me to mount the screen since the previous one had standoffs coming off the controller that mounted it. I was able to make it work by drilling/tapping new mounts to the chassis and partially disassemble the new controller "sandwich", use some shorter screws and nylon spacers to make my own standoffs for the screen. Was a lot of unnecessary work for a controller swap.

Hmm that must mean that they changed the frame as well then at some point. 🥴

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Seems fine, double ended battery connectors seem kinda janky but if they work and handle the current they're supposed to I guess no real problems... until you crash the thing.

Edited by chanman
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Yeah I guess if he truly does intend to use it as cruiser it'll probably work great. Good use of remainder parts. He might have to resist tackling those mental slopes he seems magnetically attracted to, and doing those risky biscuits bump and jump manoeuvres, lest his extended boxes dig in, and not being metal, split or crack, but if he can stay away from those, or otherwise protect those at-risk undersides it seems like a very simple and solid solution. 

He's obviously got riding stamina way in excess of mine. I'm knackered after about 30 miles or 1 charge meter bar off max on a Standard Master ! 

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4 minutes ago, EUC Custom Power-Pads said:

Then only the god rods are missing and the wheel is completely fixed :roflmao:

Don't forget the jesus loves you sticker!

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On 1/22/2023 at 9:18 AM, Cerbera said:

Well, I had a fairly horrible time upgrading my Master to 'V3'. Satellite board went straight in there no problem, but charge board but was a right royal pain in the arse !

Begode had unhelpfully gunked the allen sockets in 2 out of 3 of the hex bolts holding it down, making getting those out a slow, painful and gradual process.

Then tried to loosen my motherboard screws, but that was stuck down hard to the base by other means, and I didn't want to disconnect everything going to it so I tried to extract the old board around it, which took some time because of those massive capacitors being in the way, and squeeze the new one into the space.

Got it stuck several times, but patient finagling won the day in the end, and eventually it went in, and seated OK. Damn awkward to get to those battery connectors with fingers - you almost have to do it by wiggling on the wires - I did not enjoy this process !

And I thought I had done it wrong when I didn't get any pop at all when I reconnected MB to charge board. But, no, she powered on fine, and balanced, my display and lights worked at -2 degrees C, and she is charging now, with no immediate signs of the magic smoke, so I think that went OK. 

Here's the bottom of the old board...

image.png.0d27f064deab471e223e965b4d24c8f1.png

versus the bottom the new one...

image.png.fb85861145a4a700e04cc9821397e7b9.png

Looks like we have slightly better soldering (except maybe that one pad above the top right brass spacer), and conformal coating everywhere on the new board, as opposed to just the battery connectors on the old one, and considerably more complex / populated layout.

I got a pop when I reconnected. 

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57 minutes ago, Topkek said:

I got a pop when I reconnected. 

Yeah so did everyone else apparently, which of course makes me suspicious about mine, even though it has done 250 km and 3 charges without issue since the board swap... I did discharge the caps before swapping the boards, so I really was expecting a pop that never came !

Edited by Cerbera
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On 1/18/2023 at 11:21 AM, Rawnei said:

As I wrote in the other thread I wouldn't bend the caps like this.. just unscrewing the motherboard and angling it a little bit upward near the charge board was enough to swap the charge board.

Wouldn’t this dislodge whatever thermal pad is underneath and did you recalibrate after? 

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32 minutes ago, Topkek said:

Wouldn’t this dislodge whatever thermal pad is underneath and did you recalibrate after? 

Don't think it matters that much, you angle it upwards a bit and then it gets hard pressed down by the screws again, I didn't recalibrate, angle seems alright but might be a good idea.

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23 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

Don't think it matters that much, you angle it upwards a bit and then it gets hard pressed down by the screws again, I didn't recalibrate, angle seems alright but might be a good idea.

Are you getting rapid temp changes?

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9 minutes ago, Topkek said:

Are you getting rapid temp changes?

I have a steady stream of problems with my Master, I will check once I get it working properly.

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Are we all supposed to change the charge board?
And why? I thought charging was controlled by the BMSs in the battery packs, and not the battery connector board (charge board). 
Or is there some kind of balancing in this board as well?

 

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10 minutes ago, EUCzero said:

Are we all supposed to change the charge board?
And why? I thought charging was controlled by the BMSs in the battery packs, and not the battery connector board (charge board). 
Or is there some kind of balancing in this board as well?

 

You should check to see if you have the new charge board. The new chargeboards have an extended connector for the controller. The older chargeboards have the connector on the chargeboard itself. 

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Thanks for the info on how to recognize the new vs old board.
I do not have the new one.

But I am still wondering what the difference will be as balancing should be in the BMS and not in this board. So what is going on there that I do not know of?

 

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6 minutes ago, EUCzero said:

Thanks for the info on how to recognize the new vs old board.
I do not have the new one.

But I am still wondering what the difference will be as balancing should be in the BMS and not in this board. So what is going on there that I do not know of?

 

I don't remember but I think I read that it might have to do with the chargeboard not charging the batteries to 134.4v. Not exactly sure though. 

Edited by trailless
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2 hours ago, EUCzero said:

Thanks for the info on how to recognize the new vs old board.
I do not have the new one.

But I am still wondering what the difference will be as balancing should be in the BMS and not in this board. So what is going on there that I do not know of?

 

I can't explain why but from what I understand old chargeboards creates imbalance in packs.

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We had people with the old charge board here and the moment they tried to fast charge it the fuse in the charge board blew, maybe this is the issue?

Just now, Topkek said:

We had people with the old charge board here and the moment they tried to fast charge it the fuse in the charge board blew, maybe this is the issue?

Don’t quote me on this 😂 

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12 minutes ago, Topkek said:

We had people with the old charge board here and the moment they tried to fast charge it the fuse in the charge board blew, maybe this is the issue?

Don’t quote me on this 😂 

I blew a fuse on the new chargeboard with my hypercharger. I believe it was my fault  as I didn't 100% make sure to turn the amperage dial down... Thankfully the batteries and the hypercharger are fine. 

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Since my new charge board was installed I have been seeing better final charge voltages almost every time I do it. Last week we were up from 133.2v to 133.9, and today we tipped over into the 134's, which might be expected if the balancing was improving...

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37 minutes ago, Topkek said:

We had people with the old charge board here and the moment they tried to fast charge it the fuse in the charge board blew, maybe this is the issue?

Don’t quote me on this 😂 

C2 had no problem handling the 8A (marketed as 10A) charger that is common on Ali and Alien Rides, imbalance issue is not related to fast charging.

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On 2/3/2023 at 9:47 PM, Topkek said:

Are you getting rapid temp changes?

First proper ride today since changing chargeboard, given it's cold outside but the temperature was consistent the whole ride.

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Sounds familiar to anyone?
Newest mobo, I rode from 100% to 0%, got 67km. Charged and it felt like it dropped to 50% almost immediately.

Charged again.. to rouhghly to 97%.. got around 30km.. I quess 1 battery pack is lost.

The wheel "BUZZZ" when shut down.

E: Removed all batteries from mobo and discharged it, buzzing continues. Comes from battery pack.
E: 500km untill V2 mobo mosfets got blown + 256km to that untill the battery pack failed.

 

Edited by Kutvelo
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