meepmeepmayer

The 14D has tiltback too, doesn't it?

Maybe it's just the wheel. I really can't say

The mten3 certainly is a squirrely and super sensitive little wheel. In terms of learning, if what you did didn't work too well so far, try this instead: go from easiest to hardest, in order. Free mounting and riding slow is hard, so delay that to later. Easiest is going straight (no steering) and fast (speed stabilizes you, less side-to-side balancing needed which might lead to oversteering). So mount with the help of a wall/fence/post, find a comfortable relaxed stance on the wheel, and then just take a leap of faith and lean forward (maybe out of a pendulum movement), let go, and ride (reasonably) fast in a straight line towards something else you can "land" on (catch with your hands). Braking is necessary, so it comes next, but it's easy. Do not brake slowly and meagerly, but in a quick and swift dynamic movement. The goal is to avoid being slow for a long enough time to lose balance (fast = good, slow = bad), so go from fast to stopped quickly enough. Braking is achieved by moving your center of gravity backwards. Either by arching your back, or (better) by giving a gentle push with your toes. A technique that always works is simply "sitting down" (good for emergency braking - "sit down" and let the wheel catch you, it will). You can try these moves on the ground (no EUC involved) to see how they work in shifting your weight backwards (you'll have to take a step back to not fall over because there is no EUC to catch you) and how gentle or swift they are. Now you know you can ride (a bit) and brake, which should give you more confidence. If you need more help with uncertainty, at any point protective gear (wrist guards mostly) might help you be more relaxed. Once going straight+fast works well enough, you can try steering (curves). Be careful not to be too slow or it will be harder, try to keep enough speed. Just transition from going fast+straight into fast+a little bit of a curve. Then you can gradually lower your speed while doing the same excercises (and narrow your curves, do figure 8's, etc.) and see how slow you can get while keeping balance and control. If you get unstable at any point, speed up (this may be counterintuitive, but you know by now that faster is easier). All the time till now, you always started with assisted mounting (with the help of a wall etc.). Why? Because free mounting is even harder than going slow. So you can begin learning free mounting when you are comfortable enough with the stuff that came before. This doesn't mean you're doing something wrong. Maybe the mten3 just isn't the ideal wheel for you and things would be different with a bigger wheel. Maybe not. I can't tell. This is merely something you can try and see if it helps you Because hard or not, learning should be fun, not an ordeal.

Bigger wheels are easier to mount and are more stable. But you certainly shouldn't feel "terror" with an mten3! It's supposed to be fun. Try to get used to the mten3 and enjoy it. How fast are you going with the mten3? Because speed stabilizes you, and a mistake a lot of new riders do is to try and ride around walking speed which is way too slow. Don't be afraid of 10+mph. Think learning to ride a bicyle - go too slow and you'll never be stable and improve. You need a certain speed to be stable. Maybe that's it?

This was 100% operator error. No need to be scared of the 14D (down hills or anywhere else), just don't go faster than you should with it (30kph or whenever it beeps) You'll have the same problem if you try to go 65 kph or 70 kph with the 50 (or 55) kph V11.

This topic (= thread) was originally in the Inmotion (sub)forum, which was confusingly called "Inmotion thread". Now this topic has been moved into "General Discussion" and everything is good

Those are quite different wheels. The Tesla is like a small sports car and reacts quickly. The 18XL needs more effort to start going, but it will be calmer at speed. How did you end up with these two models? What about the 16X (I have heard a lot of people saying they like the 16X over the 18XL), Nikola, the Inmotion V11? What do you see yourself using the wheel for?

I moved the topic to General Discussion. @Shyy I hope that's ok with you, if not, it can be moved back But it really isn't Inmotion-specific.

It can occasionally happen that a brand new wheel needs a few first charges where the battery voltage creeps up to its maximum, after two or three charges. Not sure why that is the case, but looks like that's what is happening for you. I'd say you'll be at 100.8V or close by after the next few charges

A lot of people from Canada seem to ask about US wheels. The idea of the split is visibility. To make it easier to find a wheel that is (potentially) available to you. No need to split it into who knows how many pieces. Essentially just splitting off the NA stuff from the rest should be enough, shouldn't it? As the first post says:

Wow, fantastic post, thanks! The insides (cabling) look unusually clean for a Gotway

The forum doesn't support that. It would probably end up being "Private Sales (Europe and Rest of the World)" and "Private Sales (North America)". Or maybe a 3 way split (Europe, NA, Rest). How would you guys do it?

That was a figure of speech, not an actual number But you're right. I'd also feel safer with proper wrist guards than only gloves with sliders.

They fall to the side and catch themselves with already bent wrists. Think falling to your side when standing in place, and landing on your hand. Your wrist is probably bent when your hand hits the ground. EUCs you mostly do the superman and your wrists are straight.

For EUCing, 95% of the purpose of wrist guards is the palm sliding thing. So as long as gloves have sliders, they do more or less the same. You don't really fall in a way where you would bend and break your wrists like you would do in snowboarding, for example. Not sure if there has ever been a crash with broken hand bones due to overbending of the wrist (which wrist guards usually are designed to prevent). But wrist guards might help move or distribute an impact from your delicate hands to your (slightly) less delicate shoulders. So wrist guards can't hurt, but the really important part is the palm sliding.

I also think this might be a very good idea.

The Chinese started with Solowheel copies and moved on from there. That opportunity didn't exist for Western companies. Also I guess they have the best infrastructure for making electronics in the Shenzen area - wages, ease/availability of supply and workers and investors, know-how, no enforcement of potential traffic laws (who wants to make stuff that isn't even allowed in the country it's made in if restrictions are actually enforced?), maybe a more entrepreneurial mentality and more entrepreneurial freedom (given more leeway and not being bothered by bueraucrats), etc. Also the lower standards in terms of quality of design/build make a lower barrier of entry. Today's wheels are like the 7th (or whatever) generation, but still below what Western standards would be (if you look at the laughably thin motor cables, for example). TLDR: Because it was the easiest for them to get started and evolve from there.

If I wanted speed, I'd get a Sherman or the new EX or Monster Pro. I think the RS (and MSP before it) is special for it's unusually good torque for an 18 incher. So torque all the way. But that would be my personal preference. You have to know for yourself what you like

I believe the old Inmotion pedals (normal V8 etc. ones and V10 bigger ones) fit Gotway wheels (same width of the pedal hangers and therefore the slot in the pedals). So if these are the same slot size as the Inmotion pedals have been till now, you might be able to put them on your Nikola. I guess you'll see when you get them for your V11. Let us know.

Not cool! I understand the price in relation to the prices of the other wheels with smaller batteries, but it's just too much. For such a big battery, it should never be over 1€/1$ per Wh. Aka 2700 or less. I wonder if people will still buy it (and the Monster Pro) at these prices or there will be a notable dip in sales of these wheels.

This may not apply here, but if you order Ali -> Europe, often the shipping tracking info only starts when the package is in the hands of the European shipper and just a few days away from being delivered. So you might just get no tracking info until the wheel has already been in the US for a few days and is only days away from you. Suddenly it appears and is in your hands soon after. The alternative would be seriously delayed shipping by the seller. But if he has shipped and you have some kind of proof of that, I think you might just be in the loooong silent phase before a sudden rush of stuff happening.

Done

I think it's monumentally stupid. No point in protecting your collarbone (lol) if the price is brutally torn up hands. I don't want to know how badly a crash without wrist guards can end for your hands, and easily with permanent consequences. Way too many delicate parts there. Torn nerves, muscles, ligaments, whatnot - forget ever using your hands properly again. Maybe Ian's pure skill made him never have a crash, but for the rest of us, wrist guards are mandatory. I nearly tore through my winter gloves from a simply walking speed cut-out (fried my wheel) where I didn't even fall (just landed on the hands), and got wrist guards immediately. Then I had one simple medium-speed fall with pretty deep scratches in my wirst guards just from smooth perfect pavement, and upgraded to better ones. Permanent debilitating hand damage - no thanks!!

It really really depends on how fast you ride. If it's more like 60 miles for you (20 avg is slooooow though), then it's 60 miles. I estimated from my numbers which would give me closer to 40 miles as a lower bound for how I ride (30-35kph usually).

Ian from Speedyfeet always gets horrible range. Also he was riding 28mph all the time, speed eats battery like crazy. This is the expected behavior for a 1800Wh battery under the circumstances. Normal riders can expect the normal 1800Wh range like any other 1800Wh wheel , which should easily be 65km (40 miles) or more.