meepmeepmayer

HT (this is my opinion). Unless you just know you will be a speed demon. The HT seems generally more well received than the HS. And with a 16 inch wheel, I think torque just counts more. Same for commuting. Torque is fun and useful. The HT also looks cooler with the orange rim

Heyo! I split this into its own thread as you posted in some unrelated topic. As for your location and mentioning being a lonely rider - so many cool group rides in your area, don't miss out on this! 110% worth it, there's nothing better than a group ride.

So they are selling LiTech assembled packs to non-ewheels dealers, while people buying them expect a better LiTech BMS. A bit scummy and deceptive - both by BG and the dealers (do people pay hundreds extra just for someone else to do a few spot welds!?). Also, does LiTech know about this, and are they even assembling packs with the Begode BMS? Because I still don't see how having two quality levels would be a good idea for the "LiTech pack" reputation. Is this Begode trying to force the situation and have LiTech break their ewheels exclusivity? Just an attempt at deception without LiTech's involvement?

Haha, I was thinking of that phrase, but it seemed a bit convoluted. Also, who likes that guy (whichever of the two it is, I would have to look that up)?

I think a good question to ask now is: Was there ever a business agreement between Begode and LiTech, to supply LiTech battery packs (BMS and assembly) to Begode, so they can sell variants of their wheels with these packs? Or was LiTech always only involved with ewheels, and Begode are just lying?

Quote from the S22 topic. Sounds like the V13 (are there multiple variants?) might be closer than expected.

Not sure when the X-Max will come out. It's hard to say anything about it when nobody has one yet. The V12 HT surely is a wheel everybody seems to like really much, but if you already have a Nikola, an 18-20 incher might be more interesting. I'd wait for the X-Max or maybe just get an RS (HT would be my choice) now. V12 HT is just nice, too, so it's not like you would go wrong with it. Might just be a really nice upgrade to your Nikola. Hard question!

Some questions: What is so bad about the Begode BMS? What are the "concerns on long-term reliability"? Is the difference important in real life, given that we have been riding EUCs for a time now and BMS problems are not a thing? If nothing else, the Gotway guys are fast, so how likely is it that they just make a better BMS if it turns out to be strongly demanded by dealers and riders? Are the LiTech packs only about the BMS or also about battery build quality (welds or whatnot)? How does it make sense for LiTech to do that? This seems... illogical somehow. LiTech won't supply to Gotway, but Gotway sell them their BMS? LiTech dilutes the reputation of "their" battery packs by also building packs with Begode BMS? Nevermind that was just what Begode apparently said, but not what LiTech will do. Thank you for the insider info. One party says one thing, the other says something else. Poor dealers. (Sorry if these are dumb questions, I haven't followed this alternative battery pack stuff.)

Maybe just some screws are loose. Just disassemble a bit, check that everything is tight (especially around the motor-rest connection), and maybe you see something.

Where do these numbers come from? You measured something, or just the "official" (as official as information we can get) 0% voltage? Earlier Gotways (18650 etc.) all use 3.3V, unless there is an exception I don't know about. 16X: 3.15V V11: @mrelwoodsays it is 3.15V too V12: ???

Not in a thousand years I would have guessed that bearings could be responsible for damage like this. Did they push the motor cover too far out, and then something could scratch it?

You can accelerate from no-beeps-yet territory to overlean in a fraction of a second. Beeps don't have enough time to even start then. Let alone the time for you to hear them and react (you generally don't react after one beep). Beeps (and tiltback and the safety warnings in general) are really only good if you go fast and accelerate slowly, then they tell you when you have reached dangerous speeds. Against fast accelerations that happen faster than these warnings... well.

Torque rules. HT all the way.

You can turn it on while it is lying on the side. Maybe it won't try to balance then.

Where did you buy it? This really is the job for your seller or an independent repair shop (might very well be another seller). Your seller or finding a repair place that works for Florida is where you start. Sellers exist so that manufacturers do not have to deal with customers directly, but they got the parts etc. Just like with your emails to Inmotion (to where exactly?), you might not get a reply simply because they don't even reliably have people who speak enough English. You're barking up the wrong tree by talking to any Chinese manufacturer directly. Note, as I see myinmotion.com being mentioned, I believe that is not the official Inmotion website. Simply a seller (EUCO... this existed before EUCO, might very well be their predecessor shop focusing on IM wheels), and maybe they have some extra dealings with IM, not sure how and what and how official. The name is a bit misleading because it looks more official than I believe it is. Manufacturers don't really have websites that allow customer interaction. You're lucky if one of these Chinese companies has a (barely competent and up-to-date) website at all. They don't have local official branches. All goes via the dealers. So ask your seller or some other competent outlet, that is the right adressee to get your V11 fixed (let's not lose track of what the important thing is... you can ride again!). (Sorry, I'm worried this comes off as rude, but that's not how I mean it, I'm just describing how things are. The "Western" expectations of being able to deal with a manufacturer directly or getting any support from them virtually don't exist with EUCs. They just sell wheels and parts to dealers mostly, and maybe some enthusiasts that have built rapport, that kind of thing. Hell, even the dealers may have trouble getting proper support from certain manufacturers! Though I will say that I expect Inmotion to have the best after-sale-support structures in place overall. In the end, mostly everyone gets what they need, so it's not like things are dire. Just more complicated and maybe unreliable than one would want.)

Strange and inconsistent behavior like this usually means there is something wrong with the board. I would get a new board. You can always disassemble a bit and see if you see chafed motor wires or something else that shouldn't be, but to be truly sure your wheel is good, I think you will need a new board. Is there any repair service which can maybe diagnose? If you bought from ewheels, they do that, for example.

People don't know that they don't know.

RST = RS Torque

You're right that every EUC should include a basic explanation of how it works and what "self-balancing" entails, but then I still think many people would not understand it or heed it. They just expect the wheel to not go any faster if it cannot, like any other vehicle. Sometimes people here are surprised if they hear that any hardware failure would not mean they just coast to a stop (like any other vehicle), but simply insta-crash (more instant that yours!). Self-balancing is also hard for the manufacturers. There is no obvious good answer how to design warnings during riding. For example: You can overlean any wheel, by principle. Just go faster and faster until it cannot keep up. If an evil acceleration (or bump or wind gust necessitating such an acceleration) comes fast, you fall before any beeps or tiltback can occur. Tiltback also adds another concern: to tilt you back, the wheel needs to overtake you first. So it needs to accelerate first. And if that particular acceleration happens to be too much, the tiltback attempt is what pushes the rider over the edge (kind of literally). That might be what happened to you. The wheel can't look into the future. How early should it warn? Any (too) early warning mechanism locks off untapped potential (speed really) of the wheel permanently. A LOT of potential. How much do you want to lose? 20%? 50%? You can make up a scenario requiring arbitrarily large warning margins. It's simply "accelerate this hard and you need this much margin". Just design for a higher top speed? That lowers your torque. How much oomph exactly do you want to sacrifice for how much safety? You can build monstrously overpowered (and expensive and heavy) wheels that will work for the normal riders, but at their new top speed, the exact same issue exists for the crazy few riders going that far. You just kicked the can down the road. (In fact, kicking the can down the road is how to do it. Ride a 45mph wheel at 30mph max. Problem solved. Theory complicated, practice easy. Just have self-control and stay away from the top speed.) It's about finding a balance that works best. That applies to any voltage. At low voltage, it just happens sooner. As I understand it (possibly falsely), you only lose battery capacity (energy content), not voltage. So there should be no difference in riding behavior and safety. Also, if you do the math on when the purported "80% of original capacity" happens (not that anybody ever noticed it in real life), it is after 10000s of miles. By then, shiny new wheels will call out for you, and yours wil be so beaten up and scratched that you replace it because of that, not the batteries. Nobody ever had any battery aging problems with EUCs that I ever heard of. It's not a thing. - TLDR: It's not that complicated once you understand how complicated it is But in reality, just get a faster/stronger wheel and you will be good.

Ow, I hope your injuries heal soon. And thank you for the warning report with your experience. I do agree though that this sounds like a standard overlean. Any wheel, regardless of power or ratings or any other specs, can be overleaned when you accelerate faster that it can support. No designed safety margin can 100% protect against that (just accelerate even harder). Usually and practically, that is only a concern near the current top speed (which goes down with the battery charge!). But since you were in that regime... All it needed is a bit lower battery charge than usual, or a little more temporary acceleration stress than usual... and what once worked for you did not work this time. That is (very likely) the explanation for your crash. Leave the home with 100% charge if you ride a wheel hard, instead of only charging at the end of a week. More battery = bigger safety margin. If you look at the numbers, a full battery (84V here) is 20-25% higher voltage than an empty battery (something between 60V and 66V here, not sure). And voltage directly translates into the safe top speed you can ride at any point, where you have enough margin so your typical riding behavior does not exceed the wheel's current capability. I would not blame the V11 (but I also don't blame you), and I would say you can still trust it (of course after it has been properly repaired after the now heavy crash damage... ewheels can certainly do that). From your description, it sounds like your V11 just did what one would expect (its best, which wasn't enough this time). What you really need is a faster wheel. The best thing for safety is a top speed much faster than you would ever ride. Want to go 30mph? Buy a 45+mph wheel. Just stay away from the new top speed now you know the pitfalls Great that you could replace your car with a EUC! Just so cool!

Good point. Do you think this could be achieved by a pair of good backing plates on the motor? Or maybe beefier sliders? There must be a better solution that does not endanger the wheel structure (I'm starting to think these kickstand do that in a crash).

I would not be surprised if many people remove the kickstand, and future wheels won't have it. It seems no more stable than leaning the wheel against something, and serves no other purpose besides being leverage for transmitting forces into places where they can do serious damage. I love the simplicity of the new build paradigm where it's just a bunch of separate boxes (for battery packs, the board, lights) on the outside of the motor+pedal assembly. The concept just needs to be done properly. All boxes robust and sealed, and with some proper (and replaceable) bumpers for protection.

Yea, the combination of 3000€ price and a top box built from crispbread (figuratively) that is clearly neither waterproof nor crashproof has really soured me on this wheel. I was going to overlook the "only" 2400Wh, and the performance and looks and pedal height are perfect. But no, Begode have to do something dumb like they always do. I just want a new wheel Just give it a closed metal box and some bumpers FFS.

I would not blame Russia for other countries politicians and companies' greed and corruption. They are well capable of that on their own. Nobody forced them to invest in Russia. Nobody forced them to take covert Russian money and propaganda support. All these stupid excuses for trading with Russia were happily adopted on their own free will. It needs two to tango. Germany's behavior, for example, was and is still pathetic. The only countries that helped Ukraine when it really counted were the US and the UK. With cold, hard weapons in meaningful numbers. Then later (but too late) at least some Eastern European countries did help. The rest had to be dragged kicking and screaming into doing anything, even if nothing remotely adequate.

Wow! One would think you would feel/hear if the entire motor side cover scrapes. But what other explanation could there be? How does the other side of the motor look? Also scraped (or whatever it is)? Get a picture of both motor sides in addition to the inside of the wheel well.