meepmeepmayer

The right one seems to have a V11-style suspension (central slider with spring or whatever inside). - I'm somehow not convinced this is the final layout/look.

This is the old picture right? Or is it new?

10A is too much for the Master's charge port, is it not?

What's going on? We hid a thread that was a dumpster fire, with people ending up having personal arguments and ultimately reporting each other to us mods to continue their fight. The new no-topic thread (with some explanations) was hidden by ShanesPlanet (now @.....?) for some reason. Was there really such good discussion in the thread before? Whenever I (very briefly) looked, it got worse and worse with anti-vax crap and "Let's go Brandon" level of political "discussion" and so on. But at least it was only in that thread, so who cares. Then the reports started... If there is something worthwhile to be salvaged there, we can do that. Don't want to ruin people's genuine effort into something worthwhile . But yeah... are we mods just supposed to keep any festering cesspool unattended, otherwise it's "censorship"? What would you have liked us to do?

It should be covered by warranty. Going down a steep hill, even slowly, isn't that much of an uncommon strain, and the MCM5 is a great hill climber, so the board could have been compromised. And ewheels are good with their support.

You can use anything for the two or so weeks you really need it. Often people just cut up a yoga mat and duct-tape it onto the wheel. There are plenty of options if you search this forum for a bit (via Google, the inbuilt search sucks), from cheap and easy to the tank protector things and full body covers mentioned.

"TechSpec General Sheet Snake Skin" is what I have on some parts of my wheel. It's just a cuttable pad of the typical tank guard material. Holds up very well, but it is expensive and harder to clean than a smooth surface if it gets dirty. https://www.google.com/search?q=techspec+general+sheet+snake+skin https://techspec-usa.com/general-sheet-releasable-adhesive-12-x-13.html Maybe there are also cheaper alternatives or China generics, but I didn't find any back then. Anyways, "TechSpec" is a search term that worked for me. Alternatively, there is the full body roll.nz EUC body guard: https://www.roll.nz/int/euc-bodyguard/100-348-gw-mcm5-euc-bodyguard.html#/132-colour_combination-black_sides_purple_edges You can also ask the US sellers if they sell one (ewheels sells them, I think, and maybe others). Thruth is, though, that you don't really need much protection on a wheel once you are over the initial learning.

Yes the blocked tire means your board is fried (or there is any other short, like melted cables). As it's new, contact your seller! This should be a warranty thing. First I ever heard of something frying when going down a hill, so maybe the board was not too good from the start. You can also open it up to see where the damage lies (board or some cables). This has nothing to do with overcharging, then it would just have beeped and shut off.

Great quote (about the V12 HS) from the cutout tracking thread. I would say this is the order of the day:

Nothing new, nothing confirmed. I think this is the best advice: Get the latest version of the V12 board, if you haven't already. For the HS, this means not the original or the replacement board, but the "new" board which seems similar to that of the V12 HT.

Didn't know this existed. Cool, looks like they somehow managed to switch to 21700 cells in the same form factor.

Why wouldn't the S22 be a great wheel? Not sure where the current negativity comes from.

@FlyboyEUChttps://www.youtube.com/c/FlyboyEUC is the man you need, I think.

Too bad it wasn't just a charger problem (one can always hope). But now you know. You need a standard 900Wh 100V Begode battery pack. They're the same in so many wheels - Nikola, RS, EXN, Monster Pro etc. - so it is not a Nikola-specific pack. This should be a very common part. I would ask ewheels (mentioning the wheel was originally bought from them). And other dealers. They sell a lot not listed on their sites, and asking is free. Alienrides even lists one here: https://alienrides.com/products/begode-samsung-50g-900wh-replacement-battery-pack it is $850 though (Not sure what the difference between 50E and 50G cells is, ask them. Figure out and match the cells of your packs - there should be a sticker on the packs.) Maybe someone also sells a used pack (with a nicer price), it cannot hurt to ask in the Private Sales forum: https://forum.electricunicycle.org/forum/24-private-sales-secondhand/ And of course there is the repair option, possibly just one single cell needs to be replaced. No idea who does that though. Check for general battery repair establishments I guess (and Alienrides, I think they have a repair shop). Just ask around a lot 1000 miles is nothing. You were simply unlucky with your bad cell. You did nothing wrong.

Nah, it's super simple and visual, once you get over the bump of unfamiliarity with things and the annoyance of "Why do I have to do this scary crap, why can't it just work?!". Stay calm and take your time. It is just a matter of looking where all the cables go. Somewhere there is a Y-cable where two batteries go into one to-the-board cable (which should end in one black and one red cable soldered onto the board). Trace that Y-cable out from the board. There's big yellow connectors where the battery packs plug into that Y-cable. Disconnect, done. There are also some smaller balancing/communication/charging/whatever cables (between packs, I think), same idea, just figure out where these cables go and disconnect the respective connectors if that makes sense (just don't disconnect the charging, between the charge port and the packs, and then wonder why nothing charges... but try to sever all connections between battery packs). You may not have to disassemble anything except opening the wheel und unplugging some connectors. But taking one pack completely out of the wheel is the best guarantee that it's doing nothing. You can just go by that in choosing what to disconnect. (Same general idea if you have the 2700Wh Nik with 3 packs instead of two, or if the cable layout is somehow different than I think. Just figure out the cables and unplug where needed.) If i helps, watch some videos to understand things: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=gotway+nikola+disassembly - With each pack alone in the wheel, you'll see what you see. If both packs individually alone in the wheel don't charge further, they are both broken (unlikely) or it's just the charger. If one pack charges to full without the other, that is the good pack and the other one has the bad cell. Standard warning (again, so many people have said it already): do not re-connect battery packs once one has been charged but the other has not been charged to the exact same state. Unless you like fried electronics.

Ouch! It is a V12 HS, right? I don't think there is anything to understand. These boards are apparently not reliable, so riding such wheels is a death trap. Inmotion really f'ed that up!

That is not a problem. If you do it for 3 months, maybe. But not a few days. Not a problem! Warnings are just that, warnings. Pretty sure it would stop if it overheated more. Also, that is unrelated to batteries. So what? Would be very bad luck if that were the cause. - Don't blame yourself. You just seem to have a bad battery pack. - Have you tried running the wheel with each battery pack connected alone (just unplug everything else) and then charging? That would be the first step towards finding out if it is a battery pack problem (instead of a charger problem), and which pack is bad (if one is).

Boy, these pictures really show how EUCs need mudguards/fenders covering the entire upper half of the tire, just like every simple bicycle has. Just a cheap, flexible (no damage in a crash), clip-on/removable (for cleaning) plastic guard. This is not new technology, it just needs to be done! Add it to the list of "inexplicably still not a thing". Speaking of inexplicable: How can Begode design/clone/be "inspired", improve, announce, build, and ship a wheel in the time that the other manufacturers need to simply (not) ship their stuff? My condolences to all the people waiting patiently for their orders. Well, you'll get a fine wheel in the end. Eventually.

That truly looks like a dead cell. 100.8V is the full voltage, and if you have a cell (4.2V) dead, you're at 96.6V. Connect each pack alone and individually to see if it charges to the full voltage, then you know which one has the bad cell and which one is perfectly good. Then you can figure out what to do with the bad pack. (I would say: have a professional check/repair it, or just throw it away.)

S22?

Still not entirely clear what is going on with the V12 HT and HS, and if things are completely fixed or not. Check the thread for the latest discussion:

Before disassembling anything, I would just contact the seller (as they asked) and see if they can fix it/what they say. They can answer your questions whether this really is some kind of calibration issue. You can always check the voltage later.

That's a perfect picture to demonstrate the "Just sit down" braking method!

Chooch didn't like their latest models too much, mainly because you couldn't get individual parts. I hope they do better this time. Probably not

Painting a EUC is not hard (at least the ones with an outer shell). For example, check out @Marty Backe's Sherman rebuild (he also painted an 18XL and mten3):