meepmeepmayer

You realize your "safety margin" just means that if you reach 0% just for a short moment, you inevitably crash? You constantly need some safety margin to not crash, should various circumstances appear - pothole, gust of wind, you accelerate a bit, whatever. Also, assuming these margin numbers are super exact is just not true. Right now you are coasting on your low weight, big battery, and plain luck. This isn't going to last forever. If you want to go faster than 60kph, get a faster wheel. Master, EXN HS, RS HS, Sherman - there are plenty.

Short answer: No. Long answer: No. Hard to say if that is just their planned timeline, if everything just takes longer than expected (as usual for every manufacturer that is not Gotway/Begode), or if the V11 and V12 issues cost them extra time.

@SuperSunnyHi and welcome to the forum! From the above link for the S18: Probably best to try that for the quickest reply chance.

You can now.

You can do that now.

The "3rd alarm" (5 beeps) cannot be turned off, so it will always sound. If you are often riding the beeps, you need a faster wheel. Being too close to the limits is always a bad idea. You can easily overpower the wheel then. So do not just think the final alarm is enough to keep you safe. Pretty sure 70kph is faster than the Monster 100V can do.

You can now. You replied to months old threads, though, so probably these wheels have long been sold.

It's probably cheaper to buy and sell locally than to ship.

PMs should work now.

This thread is over a year old

This was posted on reddit:

Going around 30kph (beeps at 35) on my 1300Wh ACM, I (80-85kg on the pedals) get about 55-60km (Wheellog distance) before the annoying beeps start, which I consider the end. So getting 45km on a much faster wheel with 1110Wh seems not out of the ordinary. (The ACM ends at 3.3V per cell, too, just like the S18 apparently does.) Whether the rapid percentage (and voltage?) drop at the end is normal, I can't say. Would not surprise me, with the "small" (3p) battery, but might not be normal as well. Someone with an S18 must say. Don't ever believe manufacturer range claims, these are pure fantasy. Yea the 18XL gets a lot of range. Part of that is that it has 3V per cell as 0% voltage, part of that might be the relatively sluggish firmware (I rode it and found it a bit sluggish, so this is subjective), and part of that might just be magic. You guys must be going slow for these ranges, though. 50km on a 16S? Not bad! (Though, with lower weight, the range rises surprisingly rapidly.)

Hard to say if it is normal or odd. 45km from 1110Wh and fast riding... sounds very plausible. And voltage goes down fast near the end. I consider 30% (at rest) nearly empty because then the beeps start as soon as you push a little. Your 65.85V is 3.2925V per cell, and 3.3V is a typical 0% voltage. So far, so normal. The percentage drop near the end seems very sudden, though. Now that is the real surprise here! 90km from 1500Wh? Did you ever ride it as fast as the S18?

Please post in English here! Google Translate:

Yes. Speed = RPM times tire circumference, so the wheel gives you its speed depending on the tire size it expects. If the real tire is bigger, you're going faster in reality. You'll need more power to turn a bigger tire at the same RPM, though. So you can't go faster for free (wind resistance also doesn't care and grows with speed anyways). To get back on topic (maybe), everything with EUCs is somehow a mess. Even wearing down a tire is going to lower your real speed (a tiny bit) but not what the wheel tells you the speed is. We ride anyways, and 99.999% of the time everything is great

Where is this? Lake/sea looks nice. Seems to be in Finland, going by the one street sign I could make out? Also nice music

Side note on wheel speed vs. GPS speed: These are both valid speeds (or can both be wrong). The real track a wheel goes (with carving and weaving and whatnot) is always going to be a bit longer than whatever track, made from a series of straight line segments, a GPS measurement will produce. Have you ever seen how rough and inexact these GPS measurements are? Of course it's underreporting the speed then. Naturally, a wheel's alarm always goes by wheel speed (as measured by tire rotations), because that is the only information available to the wheel. Which one is your "real" speed is up to you to say.

The older Gotways only had a few alarms: 1st alarm (2 beeps) on/off (at 30kph fixed speed for the Teslas) 2nd alarm (3 beeps) on/off (at 35kph fixed speed) 3rd alarm (5 beeps) cannot be disabled (at 50kph for the Tesla, lower with lower battery) And you could set a tiltback speed. That was all, and I'm not sure what more (if anything) the latest T3 (or Begodes in general) added. In the above case, every other alarm or speed setting that's not tiltback is something an app does on its own. Or the app secretly re-enables one of the wheel alarms.

Not sure why you are posting that here. Was it a wheel problem, or was he simply going too fast?

Then they had a major board revision! Maybe apps can read the alarm settings now.

Is the alarm 2 beeps repeating? That's the first alarm that appears at 30kph, so it probably isn't off. The alarm stuff can be confusing. And it's easy for an app to accidentally re-enable (or not disable) the alarms. Note that, unless Begode uses a majorly updated board for the Tesla now (I don't know), any app cannot even read any alarm settings here, so don't trust what it displays. Just disable the 1st alarm again (and the second alarm, which would be 3 beeps at 35kph). Also don't confuse app alarms and wheel alarms (which the app just happens to enable or disable). Getting 13km from going 100%->84% isn't super great, but seems very normal. Make sure your tire pressure is good. No idea if the T3 even allows for firmware updating.

All manufacturers f**k up regularly. Right now, there seem to be some production issues with the latest V11 batch, so the RS is the "safe" option with nothing bad going on. (But buying from a good dealer, e.g. ewheels, will make sure they don't sell you a potentially problematic wheel, so don't rule it out just from that.) Other times, it might have been the other way around. My point is: all wheels are more or less equally safe, and the rest depends on the details. The real difference is: one has a suspension, the other does not. As for waterproofing: sure the V11 has a better one, but sounds like you can live with the RS just as well. Haven't tested in person, but I think that is true. Begode just goes for full power with a simple firmware and not much "shaping" or refinement of the pedal behavior. I certainly like relentless power when you want it. - Trust your gut in which wheel to choose. I'm getting the impression you are leaning toward the RS. If that is the case, get the RS. Both wheels are great, though.

I changed your title and removed the other post. Happy selling Also you can edit now if you want.

Key quote

Just to clarify: The max voltage of the S18 is 84V (can read as 84.2V for example, measurements are not too precise). The min voltage (what King Song sees as 0%) is something between 60V and 66V (not sure what exactly). So if your voltage is between those, there is zero reason to assume there is anything wrong with the battery or that you have anything to worry about. The battery percentage is just something that goes wrong in the app for some reason, independent of the wheel. No worries