meepmeepmayer

One battery cell is full at 4.2V and empty at 3.0V - 3.3V (depending on what the manufacturer says is empty, often 3.15V). Multiply that number by 20 (for 84V wheels), 24 (for 100V wheels like your Sherman Max), 30 (for 126V wheels, only the S22 for now) or by 32 (for 134V wheels, only the Master for now). Then you know what the full and empty voltage is. Not sure what the 0% voltage of the Sherman Max is. If we go by 3.15V per cell, it is 24*3.15V = 75.6V. You can just ride it down and check when it starts beeping and is no longer nice to ride. That's your real world minimum voltage, which is better to know than some theoretical number. You will get an intuition for which number means what if you ride and have an eye on the voltage from time to time. - Problem is, usable range is not truly linear between full and empty voltage. Usually at maybe 20-30% (no load, which goes towards 0% under load), a wheel beeps at you and you have to stop riding soon. Something like 65% is closer to a halfway point. 50% is maybe... 1/3rd of range left? EUC World offers an alternative algorithm where the percentage tells you what range you have left. So 50% would actually mean you have half the range left, as opposed to being 50% between full and empty voltage.

Good speculation. All this talk, and the fact that 134V+3600Wh is obvious and all the pieces for it are in place... makes me think the EX20S could be a wheel like the Hero. Technically available and being produced, but with a (better, 134V and it could lose some weight and be one refinement iteration later) successor available only few months later. The EX.N and RS duality could at least be explained by not having enough space for 2700Wh in the RS shell, and the history of the EX being a suspension experiment and thus being a different wheel. But I cannot see much sense in a 2400Wh+134V vs. 3600Wh+100V forced compromise. Any thoughts why these dealers won't carry the EX20S, besides a possible successor coming soon? Maybe it is just too heavy?

You don't have to decide between speed and quality/innovation. You can have both. Now I'm really wondering what new thing they plan. Something feeling closer to a motorbike than an ebike maybe? Well, we will see (eventually... like the new V12 board... some day).

Some political and EUC-unrelated posts have been moved here:

I agree with the others. Have them send you a brand new replacement or do the repairs. Too new and $$$ to expect you to do repairs. The good thing is, this is a clear manufacturing defect and you can still trust the V11 hardware (as long as it is assembled properly)

You can also ask in the "Private Sales" forum here (and other places like Facebook and whatnot) if someboy has the 18S parts you need. But first I would try to narrow down exactly what the issue is, so you know more.

Contact ewheels.com via email (sales@ewheels.com) and ask if they still have some 18S battery packs for sale. They used to have them. Maybe you can also find someone to diagnose and possibly repair your existing packs. Depending on what the problem is, this might be the cheaper option. You can also disconnect all packs and connect each individual pack alone and see if it charges further (not sure how many packs there are). Maybe just one is bad? Careful, do no connect packs with different voltages back together! Not sure about that. Might just be the power button? Board? Hard to say.

Cell failure cut-outs are not a thing. I cannot recall a single one reported on the forum here. Even if a cell failed during riding, you would just have a suddenly reduced voltage, which is not necessarily a reason for a cut-out to happen. The occasional, exceedingly rare cell failure is noticed when the wheel no longer charges to full voltage, that seems to be all. Then you need to be careful with the compromised pack and competently repair or replace it, and you're good again. Worry about anything but cell failure cut-outs

Your toes will instinctively try and grip the pedals. So it helps to be aware of that and to consciously relax your feet and toes to prevent tense muscles. The rest is practice and your body getting used to the new situation.

Damn! Though I really want to know what the difference between a bigger capacity Master (134V and 3600Wh presumably) and a 134V EX20S (134V and 3600Wh) is now.

Not my video. Just found this, it is a really good introduction to EUCs. Pretty much everything you should know is mentioned. Great if you need a video to explain everything to new riders.

Nice to see the details of both wheels, thanks! Not that the Hero is bad, but it seems the Master is better in pretty much every way (including the disproportionally high price of the Hero). Not a surprise, as the Master is more or less the Hero successor.

Inmotion have been pretty good with their model timing once they decided to get into the game properly (after they decided the V8 and V10 weren't enough of a model offering). The V11 was one of the two first suspension wheels, and the one with the better battery size for a general purpose wheel. Now, everybody is building yet another 20-incher while the rest of the lineup languishes. And IM come up with the V12, offering a more modern alternative to the quite old Nikola and 16X (not that these wheels are bad, but they are not exactly new). So I'm wondering what their plan is now. Because I see no obvious new way to go analog to the V11 and V12 and bring something new or different to the table. Will they just try and compete in the very crowded 20-incher market? If yes (and assuming the choice of with or without suspension), what do they offer that the others don't? Because it sounds like they are doing something new. I can't quite figure out what that could be.

@ShanesPlanetIf you really want to have all traces of a post gone, edit it first, and then hide it. No way to restore an edit. And yep, sites like Facebook do record everything as soon as you click on some text entry box (and probably your mouse movements before that). But I would be very surprised if this forum does anything like that. It can just restore stuff in case of mistake or vandalism. If you type a post but not submit it yet, it gets saved in your browser cookie so you can continue later if you closed the window. But it isn't uploaded, clearing cookies will delete all those would-be posts.

Even if one somehow subscribes to this "spheres of influence" thing: Russia clearly has not enough power for it. The US has. So if might makes right, as they so argue, where is the problem? The Russians conveniently ignore that point. Which is how you know they only bullshit: no consistent logic other than the typical "It's ok if we do it, and an outrage otherwise." of the selfish. Otherwise, they would just accept that they lost their stupid imagined "sphere of influence" (and why), and try to do better. But of course that assumes they are genuine, which they are not.

Maybe everything is good then? Good point. If this doesn't work, don't trust the board. But if it works, apparently everything is as it is supposed to be.

Shouldn't the (obnoxiously loud) calibration beep end at some point, though? I have it too, but not forever.

My first free mount attempt was literally from standing behind the wheel. Did not end well No chance of wheel tilting/leg pressure. Worse than you may have imagined

You lose weight by eating less (and less crap, so you don't eat filler due to your nutritional needs not being fulfilled yet). This includes sugary drinks, which people often ignore (soda, coffee, ..). Nothing is remotely as important for weight loss as how much (and what) you eat. The role of excercise is not to burn calories while you excercise. The role of excercise is to build muscles, which always burn calories by virtue of existing. This is how excercise helps with weight loss (or rather fat loss, as muscles weigh much more than fat, so the overall weight must not necessarily change). EUC riding is barely mild cardio. Crazy offroad and trick riding excluded. And learning, boy that can be hefty - but it will be only for a short time. My 1.75 cents (down from 2 cents in the spirit of the topic)

Due to the one-side-only foot pressure, the wheel will instantly turn and tumble away to the side while you land on your ass. At least that was my very first attempt just when I got my wheel. That's what I meant with "away from you" Agree with the rest you wrote. "Too slow" is indeed the most common thing people do.

Good point! They can change their mind if people complain, and they might say whatever anyways. Hope restored

I hope this means they just have new models planned that will do what a 134V EX20S or 134V MSuper would be.

That's a perfectly normal idle Begode board temperature in my book.

Someone claims to have one. Quote:

As many problems as you have with the new wheel (unfortunately), I think you should just get a new board. The error can hardly be anywhere else, and it seems like your board is just acting funky. I would replace it with a fresh one. Exactly because you cannot really trust your current board, as you said. Try to get your seller to send you a new board (or replacement wheel). Worst case, buy a new board yourself (but it really is your seller's job to fix this!!). If it works, the RS is such a nice wheel, so don't give up. The fun will last way longer than your current frustration.