meepmeepmayer

How warm/cold is it currently in you area Bob? Pleasant to ride, or are you braving the icy winds?

I don't think there's a specific speed. The faster, the more stable one is thanks to conservation of angular momentum But I guess for every skill level there's a speed where you get stable, and the more experienced you are, the lower it is. I think that's very true. If you can stand on the wheel while loosely holding on to a wall/pole with one hand and maybe move it back and forth on the spot, you can ride if you're fast enough. The "clicking" might also be when you start the quick rotations to stabilize you (like a bicycle's front wheel) instead of shifting weight between the feet and bending your upper body. But now that you say it, the combination of confidence and high enough speed is probably also a big part of it. I always recommend to new riders to not be afraid and accelerate to 15-20kph right away. Riding faster is much easier than riding slower. Maybe that's where you got some specific number from. It's my estimate for what I did on my first ride, accelerating every time I felt it got too instable, and probably that was meandering between 15-20kph.

This video couldn't be more Dutch if it was wearing wooden clogs

155 days. More like 5 months

Not my video. Some German guy shows his first impressions of his 18L (first wheel) and does a range test (60km). Videos in German though, but nice.

Not bad for the short time you had the wheel. What is your km/week since you got it?

For your candidates, the price savings might be worth it. A 2000+ wheel I'd probably buy on ewheels. But you're not making a mistake if you buy from ewheels (and shipping is a lot faster), it really depends on the prices, and it is nice to have the added certainty as a first time buyer. Usually, Ali prices should be the end prices, that's how it is here in the EU with more fees and taxes. Just a guess.

They're all equally good (or bad). Gotway and King Song are the two big ones, and there's Inmotion... that's about it for the active bigger manufacturers (if we stay clear of Ninebot). Probably Inmotion has the best behind-the-scenes structures and support. GW and KS might be more or less equally good/bad to deal with as a seller, I don't know. Build quality (which is not safety, all brand wheels are safe!), I'd say KS and IM are a bit better than Gotway. Do you already have a wheel? It seems you need to learn about the state of things now, best option is to get a wheel and see where it leads you. Meet some people like @Henrik Olsen, get involved, etc.

There's no real reason to use one or the other. Do what you feel is right. Some people want more security and potential service, others have a "I can deal with a problem myself" attitude and enjoy the lower price.

I wouldn't build a EUC business on Ninebots. The old models are 4 years old now and nobody really should buy them (except for a very low price), and the new Ninebot One Z is reportedly (not 100% confirmed though) the last EUC Ninebot will produce. In addition, Ninebot fucks over their dealers horribly. They sell you their wheel, take your money, and then drop all support. They won't sell you spare parts and ignore you if you get a defective wheel. That's exactly why @Jason McNeil of ewheels fame stopped selling the Z - he had to disassemble new wheels for spare parts on his own dime instead, just to be able to do repairs for his customers! Ninebot also have a history of doing this. A few years ago, they suddenly stopped supporting dealers (no wheels sold, no spare parts, ignored otherwise) one day to the next. Ian from Speedy Feet got majorly fucked over by them. So essentially the same thing. Nothing worse than to try and build a business on a manufacturer with exactly one competitive model, nothing new in the pipeline, and a history of fucking sellers. - As for your original question, a wheel's lifespan is usually measured in km driven (because that's the real usage, especially on the batteries). I'd say 5000km is good as new and 10000km is still fine (if it works, it works). We've had wheels for years now, and there are basically no reports of wheels dying of old age, even the old models. So it looks wheels just don't die till they mechanically break down from pure use, the batteries no longer work (especially if they have sat unused and unmaintained for a very long time), or people simply get a newer wheel loooooooong before an old one stops working. About batteries: one charge cycle is the typical maximum distance of your wheel on a full charge, e.g. 65km for my ACM. With some normal battery treatment, a few hundred charge cycles is before you even notice a capacity loss, and maybe 1000 or more charge cycles is where you might have 20% capacity loss (for my wheel, 1000 cycles is 65000km!). So in short: Unless you have a very rare case of bad luck and something stops working, wheels, if the batteries are used and tended to regularly, will work til you get a new, shiny, better one. Simple as that.

There's usually 3 possibilities for the wheel to do a tiltback: Overheating. Then it also says "please get off", as seen in this video at 9:00. So if your wheel stayed silent, doesn't seem this is it. You could check the temperature with apps, though. You have some very low speed tiltback set, maybe accidentally. I recommend using the Inmotion app only, resetting all settings, and not connecting any other third party app (like Wheellog) while diagnosing the problem because some app might change some setting without you noticing. But from what you describe, that probably also isn't your problem. Can't hurt to check this, though. Overcharging. If your battery is completely full (not 90% or 99%, really absolutely 100% full), and you get regenerative charging from going downhill, the wheel has to stop you quickly to prevent the battery from overcharging. That also doesn't seem to be your problem here, as it also happened at non-full battery. It seems to me your wheel throws you off because it sees a high voltage drop (on acceleration or rough terrain) or a high current (when going downhill) and is somehow too sensitive to that. I would guess something is wrong with the board and you need a new board. Maybe a capacitor is broken and it has to draw power directly from the batteries, that would explain the overly sensitive behavior? Did you notice any change in pedal hardness? Is your wheel new and always behaved like this, or did this issue suddenly start one day? Contact your seller or Inmotion support about your problem, as it seems to be a hardware issue. - There's a tiny chance, like any behavior when a wheel tilts the pedals, that it is only a calibration problem somehow. So you could do a nice calibration - keep the wheel upright (not tilted sideways) and still while you calibrate - and see if it changes anything.

What is your weight?

Not bad! How many of your movie watchers does your wife know of?

Awesome, lots of high-res pictures I'm tempted to get these for my ACM if I don't get a Nikola or 16X in the first place. Though they might not fit, as the side protrusion is in the way and they might not close then (they're the same shape as the ACM pedals, but bigger). Happy to hear the new plastic grip stuff is just as good as grip tape. And it doesn't rub off with time! Have you tried it when wet? Sometime someone posted here that they are just as grippy when wet, can you confirm that?

Didn't someone already post about this here? I believe the result was that the new surface is just as grippy as sandpaper, but more water-resistant.

@stephen Awesome, thx for the detailed pictures. Also, now we know your adress to where we can send written thank you notes

Just look at some Nikola photos and how massive the 3 inch tire is. Here it looks like a 2.125 or 2.5 inch one! The 16X is indeed huge! Pictures by @Nils from here. V10F with 2.5 inch wide tire, Nikola with 3 inch tire (same as on 16X).

So cool that two guys brought their kids! Sometimes I worry EUCing is full of old men in their fifties and that's about it

Car drivers are known to be less careful if the see cyclists wearing protective gear, to the extent that no protective gear is safer because cars behave better (wider berth, etc.). At least that was a result that people stated here. Not sure how general that is.

I absolutely love that clasp. So super quick and easy to close and open. Just bring the ends vaguely in the same spot to close it, and just pinch it between two fingers to open. That and the exchangable cheek pads (for fine fitting) are pretty much a must for me in considering a helmet now. Only complaint I have about the Proframe is that the inside padding is just thin, especially the forehead one where all the weight seems to lie. Any crash, no matter how light, is going to hurt simply because the inside of the helmet is too hard. And it's not too comfortable to just wear. But it appears all helmets have the same problem, so the Proframe isn't worse than the others in that regard. I want nice, thick, soft, comfortable inside cushioning.

But the MSX tire has a bigger outer diameter than the 18XL tire, right? I just want to know if it's the same situation with the Nikola vs. 16X (two different "16 inch" tires), or if they have the same exact tire size. Guess we'll have to wait for the 16X to compare anyways.

Not the first time Marty wrote "wheels" instead of "weeks" Can you see what the tire markings say? Is the tire 16x3 or 17x3?

Congratulations. Did you buy right from GW? The latest (social) Gotway app is on the Play Store/iOS App Store or you use the app from the download section here with exactly the same functionality. kebye.com is like 3 years outdated, the app version there is ancient. I second that. Pictures of everything, please!

In general, babying batteries seems to be quite overrated. Can't hurt, but doesn't matter. The idea is: if the cells are imbalanced, you can only charge up to the least common denominator cell, so you might lose some capacity in the worst case. Balancing only happens at full battery. All that means that occasionally charging to 100% and keeping it there for an hour might fully solve a problem that doesn't exist anyways. Nothing is lost if you don't charge to 100% right away, though you might want to test to confirm that your wheel charges fully. No. Never heard of that. Charging current is much lower than riding current. What's it supposed to do that riding doesn't? Nothing worse than wanting to use your full range and then the wheel is at 90% and needs to be charged for 2 hours (the last % charging is always slow, regardless of charger) to be full. Storing batteries very empty or very full for a long time is supposed to be bad, but Marty does it (100%) and he notices... nothing. I store my wheel at 90%, just because it can't hurt, and charge it to 100% the day before or overnight if I know I might go riding the next day. If you ever find yourself questioning whether you should fully charge your wheel or might not need that soon, charge away, lest you be stranded with a battery that could be full but isn't. Just charge. You'll see In theory, you're supposed to ship batteries at some low number (<30%, <40%, or something). Whether KS does that is another question. - TLDR: Treat your wheel like you'd treat a dog (e.g. don't keep it in freezing temps or a hot car), and if you don't use it for weeks, if it is not near 100% (or very empty), that can't hurt. Charge if you might need the range.