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Nils

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About Nils

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  1. Nils

    New Inmotion V10 / V10F

    I don't think that's correct - I didn't stay with classic mode for long but felt a difference in handling and acceleration. Also, if you check the firmware update changelog you'll see this being explicitly mentioned: https://www.myinmotion.com/blogs/news/v10-firmware-update-2-2-7
  2. Nils

    New Inmotion V10 / V10F

    I'll second that; coming from the KS16B I found the V10F much more stable but less responsive in comparison. It's nothing I think about now though, and it rides so much better than my previous wheel. And yes, make sure it's in comfort mode, I found that more responsive compared to the classic mode. Also, try out some different values for the pedal sensitivity, with 100% you're going to get a stiffer ride - I can't remember exactly what I have set but for me personally 60-70% feels good.
  3. Nils

    Inmotion V8 Acceleration - Accelerating faster

    I'm not sure what settings are available for the V8 (for the V10F for instance you have "pedal sensitivity" which affects the riding experience). As far as technique goes it's a matter of how hard you lean into it, lean hard enough and you will push the wheel it to it's maximum, but lean too much and you can push it above its limits.. In contrast to a electrical skateboard you only have one wheel, so if you go above the limits you'll not only get "pedal to the metal" but "nose to the pavement" as well. To drive safely with any wheel you should instead try avoid hard accelerations and hard braking, and at the very least know the limits of your wheel with respect to your weight, etc. The V8 isn't the most powerful wheel either, so I'd try to temper my speed hunger if I were you. As @UniVehje said other wheels might give you a snappier response.
  4. Nils

    WheelLog Android App

    @palachzzz mentioned this in his post, the updated sources (and now with license!) are now available here: https://github.com/palachzzz/WheelLogAndroid Good stuff
  5. Nils

    WheelLog Android App

    That's fantastic news, very happy to hear this
  6. Nils

    My V10F dismantling

    Right you are, there are metal inserts for at least most of these screws. If I recall correctly there were also some smaller ones that might have gone into plastic directly, but one should be able to tell, and you can also see clearly on the screws whether there were thread lock there previously. I only applied loctite to the screws where there were previously some.
  7. Nils

    My V10F dismantling

    I used the blue one, medium strength. My version doesn't have a number on it, but looking around it seems like it would be 243 (and I believe 242 was an older formula). But apply it at your own risk, perhaps @meepmeepmayer is right about it causing issues, the blue one is designed so that you should be able to loosen it with hand tools though. The purple one is weaker if you're concerned about that aspect.
  8. Nils

    My V10F dismantling

    Well, we'll see I guess, and it would also depend on what strength you use. For what it's worth the screws had loctite on them (or whatever similar thing they've used) when I unscrewed them, so I chose to reapply some for those screws when reinserting them again.
  9. Nils

    My V10F dismantling

    I took the time this Friday to pick apart my V10F, with the intent of inspecting the waterproofing and sealing the battery better. I did shoot a lot of videos during the process, and was thinking that I'd publish an edited version, but after attempting to edit everything I realized that it won't happen so I'll publish a summary here instead. I have a 125xxx wheel, which I believe would make it the second batch (manufactured in May). My understanding prior to opening up the wheel was that it would have a seal between the two wheel halves, but obviously not any battery casing as this was just recently introduced. I did not have the Inmotion DYI kit, as I bought mine from China and the official stance from Inmotion SCV seems to be that this batch is A-OK. I did contact Inmotion USA about the possibility of actually buying a kit from them, and they actually offered to send me one free of charge (kudos!). Unfortunately only the shipping itself would be $130 to Sweden. Since the battery casing didn't seem to be great anyway from I've read here on the forum I opted for sealing the battery myself, which also meant I could get it done right away. I had a look at the "InMotion V10 Disassembly For Repair and Tire Change" video by Inmotion USA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9aotD8IlEw), and the DYI kit instructions posted by Jeffrey (https://docs.google.com/document/d/1Meq5YVzhvslDQN_gCdZrMDad8O3SmcQLuhHWuxf89q4/edit). The dismantling itself was time consuming but presented no real problems apart from the stuff you'd expect when dismantling anything, a screw with a damaged head, spending way too much time finding the right bits, misplacing them and searching for them again, etc. Regarding the state of waterproofing of the wheel I found that it had indeed a silicon seal applied at the joint between the two shell halves. It was fully intact in my wheel and seemed to stick reasonably well. It is this seal that in itself was deemed insufficient by Inmotion USA and eWheels, and one can imagine that with enough miles on the wheel this can start to disintegrate. The battery compartment was completely dry with no signs of water, which was what I expected given that seal was intact and since I've not ridden the wheel in wet conditions given the dangers. The battery wrapping was likewise intact with silicon in the cable cutouts , and seemed to be better applied than the one I saw pictures of from Ecodrifts autopsy of a first batch wheel. The pack had cushioning foam strips at the sides and underneath. As said I didn't have the kit and thus no battery casing, but instead added three additional layers to the battery pack, 2" electrical tape followed by self amalgamating silicon tape followed by another round of electrical tape. It's pretty tight in the battery compartment, and with the additional layers the battery fitted very snugly. I applied some additional silicon to the heat sink and the cover joints and joined the wheel case again. I applied a generous sturdy silicon seal to the shell joints and after letting it cure I also covered the seal with some heavy duty waterproof duct tape to protect it better. We'll see how well the tape holds, I'm thinking I'll probably open up the wheel partly again at some point later to inspect how it's faring. After that I put everything together, and reattached the side pads with some thin double sided adhesive tape. All in all I'm pretty happy with the result, and feel pretty comfortable riding this now. What I'm not so pleased about was that I failed to place the reset button cable back correctly I was looking at the cable earlier and didn't identify it correctly, then time was running short and I ended up proceeding with the work.. I realized my mistake right after applying the case seal, but at that point I really, really did not want to redo everything. Perhaps I'll open it up again and fix that at some point, but my current feeling is that it will probably never happen . Anyway, don't make that same mistake if you're going the DYI route yourself. Also, I'm not sure whether the DYI kit comes with loctite (don't think it does), but I applied that to pretty much screws as I reinserted those, you should make sure to get some yourself if you don't have it before putting stuff together again. Well, I'm done for now, and I hope everyone else has good success with their mods. Also a disclaimer, please don't do anything yourselves that you're not comfortable with and certainly don't look to this post as anything that's guaranteed to work - I'm happy with it but you should all take responsibility for your own decisions or leave it to your dealer.
  10. Hej! Jag ska skjutsa runt familjen strax efteråt, men jag kan vara med en timme eller så i alla fall
  11. Nils

    Inmotion V10 fire.

    I opened my wheel up today (125xxx) and can say that my wheel did have a sealant applied, as well as foam tape on the battery. I think that what was described above is for the first batch (124xxx).
  12. Nils

    Inmotion V10 fire.

    Good advise, I was thinking of doing it in two layers (like you I have some two inch electrical tape ready) with the electrical tape first but a third layer might be nice to avoid the stickiness as you say. Going to end up like some kind of micheline man battery.
  13. Nils

    Inmotion V10 fire.

    Good point there. I've been thinking I'll use a self vulcanizing silicon tape to seal the battery itself. That should create a good seal, but it would be interesting to hear if anyone has any good input on the venting. As you say, an adhesive of the right type could do it, but what would that be exactly? Or some membrane of some kind (PTFE?). I wonder how this is handled (if at all) in other wheels, or if manufacturers just rely on the very low defect rate and just seal things up.
  14. Nils

    Inmotion V10 fire.

    This is news to me, so far Inmotion SCV seems to have adamantly claimed only the first batch suffered from this. Or did you mean that it only has a seal underneath at the joint of the halves and no sealant applied at the actual crack when joining? I'll guess I'll see soon as I intend to open up my 125xxx wheel sometime in the near future to seal things up. Great post by the way, it's very useful to see a more detailed run-down of the issues.
  15. Nils

    Inmotion V10 fire.

    Was the seal missing though? My (very possibly misinformed) understanding was that the seal wasn't missing in the first batch, but that it was not strong enough, and that later batches just used a stronger seal. But then the question is, how strong and durable is the new seal? If it lasts forever and never frays or breaks then all is good. However, if there's a potential for it to degrade and break over time, with the same disastrous consequences we've seen so far, then another sealing barrier seems like a very good idea. For what it's worth I seem to remember from the ecodrift autopsy that the V10F battery wrap at least on that model wasn't fully satisfactory either (they compared it to the the KS18L battery where the wrap joints where fully sealed).
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