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meepmeepmayer

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Everything posted by meepmeepmayer

  1. The shoes are in no danger, your ankles are (of an unlucky hit by a pedal).
  2. Don't the latest KS boards use the TO247 package, too (like the MSX)? People here told me that Are the mosfets themselves "smaller"?
  3. Cape is looking good!You should make the cape your standard attire, at least with that helmet. Just make sure it doesn't get caught by the wheel
  4. Congratulations! The price really is fantastic (what a contrast to the state of the market one year ago), and it's a great wheel. Don't forget knee guards. And ankle covering shoes for the learning phase. There's plenty of discussion for padding wheels here, usually you just slap some foam/cardboard on for the first two weeks, and then you just remove that and it's barely going to fall anyways.
  5. Great, thank you! Do you by chance have photos of the board? I'm wondering if it's still the Tesla board, or the MSX one now (or even the newer Nikola one?).
  6. I specifically bought my wheel (ACM) so I could go up mountains and was quite disappointed when it fried on one. Now I understand the limitations of 2016/2017 technology better, and am pacing around in the flat at the foot of the mountains like a caged tiger So any new wheel (a significant investment for me) must be mountain-proof, I don't want to buy nother one that doesn't really do what I want it to do. The kind of fast overheating like shown in the video is exactly what I worry about (well, at least much better than the wheel frying without warning). The MSX however is absolutely fantastic, strong and cool under such high loads, as @EUC GUY's videos show (it died after over 6+ mins of pushing a car!!! in the same way my ACM died on 5+ minutes on a steep hill, and did a steep mountain for 10 minutes without problems before overheating). So I have special requirements Again, I'm not sure it's only airflow being a problem here. It overheats so fast compared to the MSX (which has no real air flow either) that I'm thinking this is simply due to the design in some way. And I don't think anyone specifically designs wheels for high loads, it's just what the design ends up to be. MSX got lucky, 18XL apparently not so much in this specific regard. This isn't to shit on the 18XL or 16X, just some thoughts/worries that this overheat test caused for me. We'll see how the future wheels turn out.
  7. 18XL: has more torque than the Gotway MSX, overheats faster 16X: reportedly has more torque than the Gotway Nikola, ... (Fill in the dots while expecting to see the same board used in both wheels.) So far it's only a thought process of "What could still go wrong?" regarding me getting the 16X (I was warming up to the idea every further day), and that's the doubt I now have So you're right, only speculation for now. I was thinking of getting a 16X right away, now I'll wait and see. My ACM must be enough for another full summer+autumn. Tesla electronics... not worth the upgrade for me. They're too far on the flimsy side for my liking (smaller mosfets). If I spend 2k, it must be bulletproof (or rather crazy-mountain proof) this time (what I initially hoped my ACM would be). If there was a version of the ACM with the MSX electronics, I'd shrug my shoulder at the lack of features and ergonomics and just get one and never look back
  8. Wow, that is severely disappointing. 75°C instead of 50° (MSX) after that first hill The Inmotion V10 did better overall! What a contrast to @EUC GUY's MSX tests with the car pushing and steep mountain videos! That sure throws a wrench in my 16X plans. I just want a 16 incher (for the torque) with MSX board and motor or equivalent, is that so hard? Thank you for a very helpful and interesting video! Looking forward to your Nikola and 16X tests there By the way, I believe the impact of environment temperature is overstated by a lot of people (including you). Do mosfets getting hot very fast from a high current really care about 10 or 15 degrees +/- in outside temperature, when the overheating happens in a matter of very short time? I don't think so. I can't see the 18XL have done those hills in 10°C, it overheated fast. 1 minute 20 seconds, you'd probably have measured the extra time at a lower temperature in tens of seconds.
  9. Don't worry, it's just plain envy, nothing personal Not sure that Europe is the largest market, that might be China or Korea maybe? But maybe Europe is (especially if you go by revenue, not wheel number). You Canadians seem to enjoy the benefit of being close enough to the US.
  10. Europe: VAT like 20% or 25% or God help you if you're in Hungary -- US: "lol, loophole!, no sales tax on online sales" Europe: import fees... 30% (third hand number, may be made up) -- US: "lol Chinese electronics are duty free, let's kill our industry" Europe: "Hey, these Euros are rich right? Let's gouge them!" says everyone from every country ever -- US: 70% of people wouldn't have $400 in an emergency or something Especially the 3rd is a thing. Euro = made of gold for many people. Someone gonna subsidize EUC development for everyone Timecoded for your pleasure:
  11. Yes. The price is from a dealer, not an private seller, so you might find a used one cheaper. But yes. Wheel prices are criminal here. Are you sure that site you posted is real? 1300€ for an 18L!!! (even if you add tax that's dirt cheap) Just do the math here: https://www.speedyfeet.co.uk/collections/electric-unicycle
  12. The important thing is: there is no "bad" version of the Tesla as long as it is 84V/1020Wh (the second implies the first). (The only bad thing about the others is the reduced battery capacities, and less oomph on the 67V variants - still good wheels otherwise). Don't be confused by the batteries. They use either certain 2900mAh cells or certain 3500mAh cells (to get different battery sizes) and that's all there is to it. 2 types of batteries used by Gotway for all their wheels/battery packs. Both types are quality cells. Please do not take any Aliexpress/Gearbest/Chinese site info at face value. There was no bad first revision of the Tesla, just a bad or unlucky batch of initial boards that fried as soon as people stepped on the wheels. (Visible) Revisions: Tesla Tesla with carbon optics Telsa with cut-off and speaker (that's going to cost more than the 900 pound offer you found) They might have switched to their new MSX/Monster 100V/MCM5 board or the even newer Nikola board on the latest revision (with the speaker + cutoff switch). Otherwise all Teslas should always have the same board. It's not bad or anything, and wasn't changed to the best of my knowledge. -- Offtopic: just as another option, I want to mention a used KS18L so you know this exists. The Tesla might be better for your needs (cheaper, lighter and more maneuverable, but who knows, regular commuting might be more comfortable on an 18 incher). Price is GBP1300, which is a lot but comparably cheap to the new price or price of an 18XL. https://www.speedyfeet.co.uk/collections/used-unicycles/products/kingsong-ks18l-electric-unicycle-used
  13. Went for me like this, too. Every helmet I ever tried and the Proforame I bought made me think "This thing is rock hard, it's going to hurt in even a light crash." And just like you I believed the builders would know what's best, there's a reason every helmet is like this. But apparently common sense does make sense here, and a nice soft cushy comfortable helmet might even be safer than the usual hard stuff. Your fireman and stuntman analogy is perfect here. A softer helmet would be more comfortable to wear, too, any hard helmet will hurt in time on a bad day. Personally, I'm more interested in comfort and protection for the light and medium, more likely crashes than a theoretical ultra-rare worst case (where I assume it's mostly down to luck anyways).
  14. The Fox Proframe is a very light and airy full face mountainbike helmet. I explicitly got it so it would be as unproblematic in the summer heat as possible. It's been very nice so far. Safety wise, I believe a mountainbike helmet is enough. Not sure what more a motocross helmet would do But I'm certainly no expert. Quick googling shows this, maybe a motocross helmet might even be a disadvantage: https://www.pinkbike.com/news/DH-Helmets-vs-Motocross-Helmets-Which-Is-Safer.html I agree with the sentiment in the article that theoretical worst case crash scenarios are less important than everyday light and medium crash behavior.
  15. Might have something to do with the fact that it's 2000GBP/2360€ whereas eunicycles.eu lists it as 1800€ (not sure how final that is, I'm tempted to ask but don't want to jinx it). 2000+ is too much for a 16 inch wheel anyways, of course nobody buys then. Even for an 18 incher it's a lot, but for a 16 incher... just no. Ian is indeed conservative. I guess he has been burned a lot by Ninebot's behavior (being abandoned... and again with the Z) and sitting on some old stock (that he refuses to price down despite sitting in his shop forever... want a red 67V 820Wh ACM for 1000BGP/1160€?). Not sure how much financial buffer he has. I asked about the MCM5 in an email and then he was also financially hesitant to order it right away as the MSX was coming in at the same time. Finally, maybe Brexit uncertainty plays a role? Your sales suddenly being limited to the UK vs. all of Europe might be scary.
  16. So the 80% alarm is just another fixed speed alarm in the end, albeit with speed dependent on battery voltage? That's disappointing. It doesn't take rider weight and other conditions into account and isn't an actual power draw alarm It's 3.3 - see here: click.
  17. I can only agree to that. The price hike from 1300 to 1600 is always disproportionate, but it's still worth it!
  18. Maybe. It's quite a distance for me, and I'm not sure the demo will do anything. But it's on my radar...
  19. Looks like there will be a 1300Wh option, too. It will be the same weight as the 1600Wh as it's the same number of cells, just a different type. Found here: From personal experience, I urge everyone to buy the 1600Wh right away. The extra price will be worth it.
  20. Inmotion USA or Inmotion? Two pairs of shoes. Pathetic either way to nobody's surprise...
  21. Mass produced quality (*knock on wood*) electronics where the consequences of slow failure are just that it doesn't work one day, or electronics sold for marine use vs. EUC manufacturer quality electronics where the consequences of failure are a cut-out or a burning boat (I guess it could happen, however unlikely). I'd rather be safe than sorry Cruise ships electronics are far far faaaar away from the water, unlike on a sailboat with the constant spray from the waves etc. It's just that a people showed (cheap) steel cutlery starting to rust almost immediately (in a drawer inside the boat), and I figured a "quality" Gotway board (or equivalent, Kingsong, ..., you name it) would probably do exactly the same. Still just my theory. Would be interesting to hang an old board on the boat and see how it looks after x days. Unfortunately I threw my old one away or would have sent it towards the Netherlands And maybe airtight is too much. But I'd certainly store a EUC in a plastic container with a clip on lid or a sealed plastic bag, and possibly put that in a metal pan so any possible fire (however unlikely) can't jump to the boat proper, and can maybe be extinguished by flooding it (cool down a burning battery fire to stop further ignition of the electrolyte).
  22. Not bad!! I watched quite a few videos where cruisers end up walking from the dinghy dock to town or whatever a lot, and always wondered why they don't get a scooter or EUC. It's so obvious. Also I really want to reiterate on the airtight/dry storage. Get some old EUC board, put it on your boat somewhere, and watch it degrade in light speed (I assume, so far all that is just my theory, but you will know how fast metal can degrade in a marine environment). Then remember than any electronics error means you fall on your face with zero warning and maximal terribleness of the fall. And that EUC electronics are pretty much amateur tier stuff. And that's before the fire danger from corrosion and condensation moisture. Airtight box + bag of rice is how I'd do it. (Fiberglass) boats burn fast and hot.
  23. EUCs are the ideal space and weight saving ridables for a boat. Just store it somewhere where it can't burn the boat down in the worst case. Also, I'd store each one in an airtight container to prevent the salty air corroding any electronics - I believe that would happen very quickly (and maybe be a fire danger if the batteries are rusting away, who knows). The 16X (or 18XL or MSX) have 1600Wh, more range than a 1000Wh wheel like the Tesla. That might be a consideration.
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