meepmeepmayer

Uh wow, I missed that update. That fall wasn't that bad, one would think. Well, looks like at least you need no crazy surgery like certain other people here

Wait what? You broke your shoulder? What did I miss? The Tesla crash back then when you started wearing your armor?

The Tesla was Gotway's next 16 incher after the ACM, so it's the ACM successor. Then they quietly put a Tesla board and motor into the ACM a few months after that . It's more like an experiment or upgrade (or they simply ran out of old ACM components), it doesn't even have an official name, "ACM2" is what Speedyfeet called it where it was seen first. There also was a Tesla-ized version of the msuper V3 (which shared board and motor with the ACM), but like one month later the msuper X was announced (much better board) so it had a short career.

Wow!! Gorgeous pictures. You got snow again.

Reported? Where? Unless it's indeed reported, I think 16x2.5 is the most likely. Are there even 16x3 tires instead of the blown up 16x2.X that is the 17x3 of the Nikola? I expect the 16X to be quite different to the Nikola, not direct competition. But we'll see soon.

I can only extrapolate from my 84V ACM. Since the software and firmware tech is the same in the current wheels... "3rd alarm"/80% alarm is 5 beeps (unless I'm mistaken). Same as the the 2 beeps "1st alarm" and 3 beeps "2nd alarm" speed alarms, but cannot be disabled. It should appear at 80% power draw or something. Not speed dependent (it was on the 67V wheels I think). You hear it, you slow down, simple as that. It's your main (and only!) alarm now that you have disabled the two speed alarms and tiltback (which is another speed-dependent warning). Then there's another alarm. At 50kph my ACM rapidly speeds up to 65kph and then switches off. It beeps constantly during that. That seems to be an overspeed alarm/behavior. I don't think it's the same as the 3rd alarm (80% alarm). Do a lift test (watch speed in app while lifting the wheel and tilting it to control it). Your MSX will probably do the same at 75kph or so. Then there's the low battery alarms. 1 slow beep at 15%, 2 at 10%, 3 at 5% and heavy tiltback going to 0%. If some of this sounds very vague, that's because we have no good, reliable info from Gotway. Just some spec sheets full of cryptic words and errors, we have to figure out the rest. Did you know your MSX's top speed is 20kph according to GW to comply with Chinese limitations? So that's the true answer: your top speed is 20kph because GW says so, and they must know best what is true! Right? For you, since you disabled all optional alarms, it's simple: you hear any beep, you slow down. It was either the 80% alarm or low battery alarm.

Worth it, though! One time nuisance, but long time joy! Your max speed = whenever you hear the 80% alarm I'd guess around 55kph. Only one way to find out (you can't do a lift test because then you hit the built-in emergency overspeed thing first).

Turning on the wheel doesn't change any settings, neither does connecting the official app. So that this changes nothing is perfectly normal. The app is just the old/non-social official GW app from the Download section here. Marty kindly uploaded it. Nothing special about it. It should have the same exact functionality as the new social one in regards to wheel settings. There is no one beep alarm, that must be an aborted speed alarm (you only heard one beep of it because you were only shortly over the limit). There's 2 beeps (1st speed alarm, default 30kph), 3 beeps (2nd alarm default 35kph), and 5/infinite beeps (80% 3rd alarm). You can reset the alarms by pressing "open all alarms" and then "default alarm". Disabling the speed alarms, there's buttons for that. By the way, all Gotway wheels can only receive commands, not send information about settings. This is why the app (or any app like Wheellog) can NOT show the current settings, it has no idea what they are! And so it can't react to that, like showing the speed limits or adapt a button. It can only shout into the dark and hope the wheel heard it. You hear the wheel beep twice when it has received a command from the app to change something. But the app doesn't know! It might send "tiltback at 40kph" and the wheel beeps even if that setting is already set like this. (And whenever you hear these 2 beeps like when you're connecting an app, you know a setting was possibly changed, so be suspicious if it beeps like this without you intending it!) As much as I dread new GW software and online firmware updates (so much they can fuck up there!), they really need some better tech there, if only so apps can receive settings info from the wheel. You can't even set tiltback higher than 48kph on wheels like the 100V Monster or MSX because that made sense as a crazy high number back in 2016. This is why the million year old and new app (even the newest one is like 2 years old) still work with GW's new wheels: they use the exact same tech like in 2016.

I'd say: Because you're already wobbling. The wheel is already going sideways (literally and figuratively). In order to stay balanced riding a EUC, you constantly and actively have to balance with your feet to negate all the tiny (or big) influences trying to make the wheel fall over sideways. So clamping does not remove wobble for the same reason simply clamping the wheel while it is falling over sideways does not keep it upright. It's too late for that. Otherwise new riders could just stay on a still wheel by grabbing it hard. Doesn't work (but who hasn't tried) You can't pull yourself up by your own bootstraps. - Not sure about your center of effort theory. I'd rather hold an "unnatural" and tense stance responsible for the appearance of wobbles then. Fo example, according to your theory, you should no longer have wobbles going uphill if you put your feet further forward (closer to your contact patch). Does that work? But who knows. And since this is not a wobble thread...

Hey it has by far the best specs of any 16 incher! It's a 17/19th mini MSX. Wide tire!! If it weren't so big, possibly fragile, possibly expensive, it would be the perfect wheel (for me). If the price is good I still might be in, big or not.

I don't think it (directly) has anything to do with your weight in front of or behind the wheel. Otherwise, according to this logic, speeding up would get rid of wobbling. Not sure that that would work (has anybody tried accelerating like a madman to get out of a wobble?). Wobbling is roll (sideways/left-right oscillation), not yaw (the wheel trying to do a curve). People don't lose control of direction in wobbles, do they? They just have trouble keeping the wheel upright in the left/right direction. Wobbles while braking can be better explained by the fact that you're simply less relaxed and more tense on the wheel while you brake (because your leg muscles are strained because they need to push harder against the wheel than when simply standing on it at constant speed).

How many beeps is the alarm you hear at 35kph? Make sure you don't abort it by slowing down. Usually at 35 is the second alarm (3 beeps). Try using the old Gotway app. Looks like the newer app still doesn't have any better functionality (tiltback still limited to 48) so it's not like you lose anything. https://forum.electricunicycle.org/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=11932

Get an adapter from 1radwerkstatt.de or somewhere else.

Nice and snappy.

It's the end point. It's an excuse to never make anything better and kill alternatives to diesel cheater cars by making them technically possible but practically completely castrated and useless. Even ebikes, that aren't exactly new news, are either limited to 25kph (so a regular bike is always faster and ebikes are pointless), or you need a driver's license (seriously) and can't use your bicycle on bike paths. Literally treated like motorcycles (but still limited to 45kph), and that hasn't changed and is never going to change. There's no justification for that, so get your wheel back. Annoy them to death. Say the battery will go bad if you don't look after it, etc. The more I think about it, the more I think I should prepare to just floor it if the police stops me and tries to take my wheel.

You can post arbitrary size pictures. Just paste a direct link to the image file.

Fun video. Once you're on the wheel, speed up! Speed greatly helps to stabilize you. You are up on the pedals, but then way too slow and therefore wobbly. You'll be more stable and learn faster (you know, because you're actually riding for longer) with a bit more speed. Would you learn to ride a bicycle by going at most walking speed once you're on the bike? I hope not Same idea for a EUC.

@Roadrunner Nice! How warm/cold was it? And nice Marty Backe pose

Yep. The nice-looking stances didn't work out and the nice feeling stances looked strange and unsafe (widely overhanging soles, asymmetric, etc.). One day I gave up on the intentional stance and, for a while, even forced myself to not look down until I was riding comfortably to prevent anything getting in the way of "feels right". Tell me about it

The above two posts say everything very well. There's no general ideal stance. Some things a good stance should do: You're as relaxed as possible. You're in good control of the wheel. You're firmly on the pedals and don't easily slip off. If you stand still, your stance should be mostly neutral. Or maybe not even that, that might just be a part of being relaxed and not strictly necessary on its own. Maybe vary it a bit during a longer ride so you stay relaxed. That's pretty much it. Nothing wrong with an asymmetrical stance (or anything else that might seem "unusual") as long as it works. The only other tip I can think of: you'll instinctively try to grab the pedals with your toes, which doesn't work with shoes and cramps your feet (= not relaxed), so you can consciously try to not do grab with your toes and keep your toes relaxed. I find it easiest to not look at my feet, just step on and adjust and then see how it turned out. Looks crazy most of the time, but if it works, it works - Personally, my primary (left) foot is the accelerator foot and rotated outwards, also hanging a lot over the pedal edge (obviously pedal shape and size also plays a role, and even the shoes). The right foot is a little more parallel to the wheel and a little more inside and backwards and acts as the brake foot. Kudos to @The Fat Unicyclist for spelling out what I always did. Since stance is a personal thing, maybe we should post pictures of ours. The foot fetishists probably won't mind either Here's some photos of my stance, with socks only (grabbing the pedals with the toes), and with shoes. I stepped on without looking, did a few rounds, and the took the pictures. (Also please note the balcony which is as far as I am currently willing to go in this cold)

An ACM, and mountains in the distance What more could you want from a single photo!

It should be balancing wires. Keeping the voltage/charge state the same between the battery packs. Never heard the BMS communication thing, but if @Hansolo says so, I believe it.

Thank you, everyone! I'm distracted by other stuff at the moment, but soon-ish will have more time for this winter helmet thing. Looks like the TSG Pass isn't what I need. And although the cap/balaclava combination seems the best thing to do in general, I'm trying to get away just with a helmet because that's easier and quicker, and also less interference with my glasses (I tried a regular cap under my helmet and it just didn't work). So some good motocross helmet (or similar) will probably be what I'll be looking for soon.

Thank you. When I'm riding again. I might be afw (away from wheel) for the next two weeks (not sure yet), hopefully then the weather is warmer and I can be arsed to buy some suitable clothes and helmet quickly.

For a moment there I wondered if your 16S had died a watery death. I don't know, who rides $1500+ wheels near canals and steep cliffs and in rain and whatnot?