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Begode EX30 4000W 3600Wh 134v Suspension


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2 hours ago, Darren0128 said:

My tail light also changes colors...was pulsing Blue, now it still pulses, but color fades from one color to the next cycling thru them all.

The blue tail light would go red once you start riding. Do you know if the colored light also turns red when riding, or does it stay RGB forever?

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51 minutes ago, Cobaltsaber said:

The blue tail light would go red once you start riding. Do you know if the colored light also turns red when riding, or does it stay RGB forever?

THe rainbow color effect goes away and turns to the normal red with turn signals/red flashing while breaking when you start riding, just as before.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So my stock begode shock doesn't have any rebound control anymore. So I just ended up ordering the coil shock that Marty uses. We'll see what all the fuss is about. 

Also got the grizzla system on and it definitely protects the wheel. But man it was a PITA to install. 

IMG_20230519_124754_763.jpg

IMG_20230519_124754_720.jpg

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3 hours ago, trailless said:

So my stock begode shock doesn't have any rebound control anymore. So I just ended up ordering the coil shock that Marty uses. We'll see what all the fuss is about. 

Also got the grizzla system on and it definitely protects the wheel. But man it was a PITA to install. 

IMG_20230519_124754_763.jpg

IMG_20230519_124754_720.jpg

I got the grizzla system too and it looks great, but I dread adding an extra step to taking the fairings off for a tire change. Goes from being one of the easiest tire changes, instantly dropping the motor out, to taking an entire side of the fairings off before being able to access the motor.

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On 5/29/2023 at 2:14 PM, trailless said:

So my stock begode shock doesn't have any rebound control anymore. So I just ended up ordering the coil shock that Marty uses. We'll see what all the fuss is about. 

Also got the grizzla system on and it definitely protects the wheel. But man it was a PITA to install. 

IMG_20230519_124754_763.jpg

IMG_20230519_124754_720.jpg

Why your stock shock doesn't have rebound anymore? What was the reason?

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The oil from the oil chamber probably leaked out.
The re-bound is oil dampened.
The compression is air pressure. 

So even an air shock has an oil chamber, and when this leaks, there is no more dampening of rebound speed.

 

 

Edited by EUCzero
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1 hour ago, EUCzero said:

The oil from the oil chamber probably leaked out.
The re-bound is oil dampened.
The compression is air pressure. 

So even an air shock has an oil chamber, and when this leaks, there is no more dampening of rebound speed.

 

 

Do we know much oil should be in a Master shock, while we're on the subject. I am still testing the replacement one I have been sent which, on first test inflation, leaked about a tablespoons worth initially, but hasn't leaked any since, making me worry that there is none left. It appears to hold pressure perfectly.

Is it possible to test the rebound without installing it in the wheel ?

 

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3 hours ago, Cerbera said:

Is it possible to test the rebound without installing it in the wheel ?

Can you not adjust the air pressure until you can compress the air shock by hand, and then release? You can even put your whole body weight on the shock, depending on how you managed to to support the ends.

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Yes you can test it.

Try to compress the shock with very low air pressure.
Lets say 30-50 psi.

You should be able to compress it half way with your own body weight I think.
Do it several times. With the compression adjustment totally closed, the shock should be compressed but not decompress at all. Not before you open the rebound a few clicks. Then it should slowly go back to full length.
If you open more clicks, it will rebound faster ;)

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1 hour ago, EUCzero said:

With the compression adjustment totally closed, the shock should be compressed but not decompress at all. Not before you open the rebound a few clicks. Then it should slowly go back to full length.
If you open more clicks, it will rebound faster ;)

I know you mean rebound damping.

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On 5/18/2023 at 7:52 PM, Darren0128 said:

THe rainbow color effect goes away and turns to the normal red with turn signals/red flashing while breaking when you start riding, just as before.

So, is the rear light red while riding? The blue taillight is a real peeve of mine when considering this wheel.

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20 hours ago, superox said:

So, is the rear light red while riding? The blue taillight is a real peeve of mine when considering this wheel.

Yea I checked on an EX30, the light is red while riding now. Goes back to RGB when you come to a stop

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  • 2 weeks later...

Dawn just posted a very interesting report on the latest firmware for the EX-30... apparently, with the new 5005 update it no longer cuts out when it reaches 100% PWM during a freespin to max !!

 

Edited by Cerbera
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28 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

Dawn just posted a very interesting report on the latest firmware for the EX-30... apparently, with the new 5005 update it no longer cuts out when it reaches 100% PWM during a freespin to max !!

 

Is the noise an indication the motor is being stressed?

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2 hours ago, Cerbera said:

Dawn just posted a very interesting report on the latest firmware for the EX-30... apparently, with the new 5005 update it no longer cuts out when it reaches 100% PWM during a freespin to max !!

:roflmao: When a certain version of a Kingsong firmware used to do that, it was deemed as a dangerous bug (which it was). And it was relatively quickly fixed by KS, as expected.

 When the latest Begode firmware has the exact same bug, it’s taken as an exciting sign of them experimenting new methods to avoid cut-outs!

Boy this is sometimes a really funny community!

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1 hour ago, Lilvodka said:

Is the noise an indication the motor is being stressed?

If it was an idle noise, it sounds like they might’ve just changed the shape of the PWM ramp up/down. A square wave motor current is noisy, while a sine wave is practically silent.

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1 hour ago, mrelwood said:

When the latest Begode firmware has the exact same bug, it’s taken as an exciting sign of them experimenting new methods to avoid cut-outs!

I don't recall saying that ! I merely called it 'interesting' and linked the video ! Dawn wasn't sure what it meant either as far as I could gather...

I am very happy to learn though - why is this a terrible idea please ? Presumably it would risk overpowering components to the point where they irreversibly break ?

Edited by Cerbera
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1 hour ago, Cerbera said:

I don't recall saying that !

No no, sorry! I was referring to what Dawn said in the video.

1 hour ago, Cerbera said:

I am very happy to learn though - why is this a terrible idea please ?

Generally the free spin speed isn’t reached in other circumstances than when doing the free spin test or more rarely if the wheel has crashed and is jumping around. In both cases a tire spinning at 109km/h with all it’s might is clearly very dangerous.

Coming to think of it, a badly balanced jump is a situation where it might actually be useful to not have the motor power off at free spin. But I’m doubtful that Begode would’ve had that in mind.

Edited by mrelwood
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  • 2 weeks later...

Well the new FW, current race mode, is amazing. The only con is that the motor has an audible sound at idle. Other than that it's amazing to ride. The power delivery is smooth and it's easier to access the torque. It's actually scary how fast you can get to 40mph, even 50mph is stupid fast... 

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On 7/10/2023 at 8:25 AM, trailless said:

Well the new FW, current race mode, is amazing. The only con is that the motor has an audible sound at idle. Other than that it's amazing to ride. The power delivery is smooth and it's easier to access the torque. It's actually scary how fast you can get to 40mph, even 50mph is stupid fast... 

I agree, race FW in hard mode is stupid how fast it is, always a blast to ride even after 3650 miles.

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Guys, does anyone know the details of the charge pins on the EX30? I have an 8A charger which has a single 4 pin GX16 outlet, measuring 134.6v on pins 1 and 3. I cant get any output on any other pins. I would like to link the pins on the charge plug to share the load but this would obviously only be worthwhile if the pins on the wheels charge board are also linked.

If they aren't I will run dual GX16's from the charger but would rather use a single, linked GX16 if poss.

As you may have guessed I dont have the wheel yet otherwise I would be able answer this question!

Cheers

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