Sherman-S 3600wh: 100V, 20", suspension, 97lb

[Clem604]

Here's a new tail light to replace the mediocre stock one. It looks much larger and brighter than the original. I'm going to order it and I'll post some pictures when it arrives.

https://hulaj.market/en/veteran-sherman-s/1157-rear-lamp-for-euc-veteran-sherman-s.html

Edited May 11, 2023 by Clem604

[Rawnei]

Be careful if you guys jump with your Sherman S (same goes for Patton) or if you do other things that might bottom out the suspension completely, a friend jumped some decent jumps on his Sherman S and it blew the oil seal(s) and all the oil leaked out, upon further investigation, deep diving into the design via teardowns and discussion with people on telegram that had similar issues it is also apparent to me that the dust wiper will hit the metallic mounting clamp if the shock bottoms out and essentially the wiper will be acting as a stopper.

I have an idea for designing a stopper that can be 3D printed in TPU, as I don't have my Sherman S yet I can't take measurements and prototype it but I have a fairly good idea already for something that might work.

Edited May 13, 2023 by Rawnei

[Rawnei]

From FastAce manual:

https://www.fastace.com/products/fastace-ahx13rc-2-oil-seals-and-2-dust-wiper-seals

https://cdn.shopifycdn.net/s/files/1/0651/3161/0365/files/ALX13RC.pdf?v=1658928043

 

Edited May 10, 2023 by Rawnei

[CDINPHX]

That sucks, I would be ordering stiffer shocks if I was bottoming them out that much and causing issues with the seals, or dialing up the preload a bit to make them a bit stiffer. The clamp looks like it could also be removed and that internal edge chamfered to allow room for the seal if/when it is bottomed out.  

 

 

[mrelwood]

10 hours ago, Rawnei said:

the oil seal will hit the metallic mounting clamp if the shock bottoms out

Someone has been asleep at the design table.

 Have you figured out what’s the next part to hit if we were disregarding the oil seal?

[Rawnei]

4 hours ago, mrelwood said:

Someone has been asleep at the design table.

 Have you figured out what’s the next part to hit if we were disregarding the oil seal?

That black ring mounted around the red housing, I don't know if that is plastic or metal.

[Bustapalapno]

19 hours ago, Hellkitten said:

Has anyone here had any issues with the motor bolts breaking on their Sherman S? If the world doesn’t implode, I hopefully will get mine sometime this month. Just wondering how common or concerning it is. 

Every batch 3 Sherman-S that has gone to Alien Rides has had at least one broken motor bolt. That’s 4/5 Sherman-S seen by that shop. I believe there is one other reported case in the Bay Area. 
 

Talking to the tech at Alien Rides, because there are 4 bolts per side, the broken bolt may go unnoticed by some riders. This is unlike the V13 with 3 bolts per side. A broken bolt on the V13 are immediately obvious. 
 

Given this information, I would personally assume that any Batch 3 Sherman-S is likely to have a bad motor bolt. I am planning on replacing all the bolts in mine. 

[txwheel]

5 hours ago, Bustapalapno said:

Every batch 3 Sherman-S that has gone to Alien Rides has had at least one broken motor bolt. That’s 4/5 Sherman-S seen by that shop. I believe there is one other reported case in the Bay Area. 
 

Talking to the tech at Alien Rides, because there are 4 bolts per side, the broken bolt may go unnoticed by some riders. This is unlike the V13 with 3 bolts per side. A broken bolt on the V13 are immediately obvious. 
 

Given this information, I would personally assume that any Batch 3 Sherman-S is likely to have a bad motor bolt. I am planning on replacing all the bolts in mine. 

Just to make sure I understand, are you saying the break occurs in the actual allen-head bolts (B) themselves, or is it the cast-metal clamps (A) that the four bolts go into, as reported in another post?  I recently purchased and received a batch 3 Sherman S from  e-wheels, and Jason at e-wheels told me he is only aware of one other Sherman S having the cracked clamp issue, so as you said, perhaps this is a more common issue that remains hidden if it only causes a break at one of the four bolt fastener points.

BTW, does anyone know if the free replacement kits that Sherman S owners will be getting (with the new seat, pedals, and shock clamps) will have clamps with improved metal that is less prone to cracking?

 

Edited May 11, 2023 by txwheel

[Stevebee]

This is surprising. Not only are there 4 bolts compared to 3 on the V13, thought I saw on a tear down that they are a larger diameter bolt as well, so should be stronger. Watching with interest once more confirmed facts surface

[Rawnei]

7 hours ago, txwheel said:

Just to make sure I understand, are you saying the break occurs in the actual allen-head bolts (B) themselves, or is it the cast-metal clamps (A) that the four bolts go into, as reported in another post?  I recently purchased and received a batch 3 Sherman S from  e-wheels, and Jason at e-wheels told me he is only aware of one other Sherman S having the cracked clamp issue, so as you said, perhaps this is a more common issue that remains hidden if it only causes a break at one of the four bolt fastener points.

BTW, does anyone know if the free replacement kits that Sherman S owners will be getting (with the new seat, pedals, and shock clamps) will have clamps with improved metal that is less prone to cracking?

 

None of those, he means the bolts beneath that which is screwed into motor axle.

https://www.facebook.com/reel/804293444543406

[stephen]

best review to date

 

 

[Stevebee]

22 minutes ago, stephen said:

best review to date

 

 

I agree. I’ve liked most of his content, from V11 to the Sherman

[CDINPHX]

Fantastic video, I do agree though why they haven’t bumped the voltage up with the Payton becoming 126v. Granted me being a newb, I wouldn’t know the difference. 
 

I suspect on their next larger wheel or maybe the fourth batch you’ll see the Sherman get upgraded. 

[Rawnei]

18 minutes ago, CDINPHX said:

Fantastic video, I do agree though why they haven’t bumped the voltage up with the Payton becoming 126v. Granted me being a newb, I wouldn’t know the difference. 
 

I suspect on their next larger wheel or maybe the fourth batch you’ll see the Sherman get upgraded. 

They won't change voltage in a batch suddenly, it would be on a completely new model.

[Clem604]

3 hours ago, CDINPHX said:

I do agree though why they haven’t bumped the voltage up with the Payton becoming 126v

I have a feeling they will when they refresh the Sherman S just like the OG Sherman--->Sherman Max.

Edited May 11, 2023 by Clem604

[CDINPHX]

100% agree, Sherman S Max!! haha. Damn, means I will need to buy another wheel, which is already in the plans as it is.   

[RagingGrandpa]

1 hour ago, Panen said:

By the way there is a 3.0.9 firmware out, but i don't know if it changes anything.

Adjustable shutoff angle, do it!
(Roll angle threshold; allows riding steep banked corners and berms.)

[RagingGrandpa]

On 5/10/2023 at 1:09 AM, Rawnei said:

Be careful if you guys jump with your Sherman S (same goes for Patton) or if you do other things that might bottom out the suspension completely, a friend jumped some decent jumps on his Sherman S and it blew the oil seal(s) and all the oil leaked out, upon further investigation, deep diving into the design via teardowns and discussion with people on telegram that had similar issues it is apparent to me that the oil seal will hit the metallic mounting clamp if the shock bottoms out and essentially the seal will be acting as a stopper, if this happens the risk is that the seal will be damaged from the impact. I think this is a design flaw in how the suspension is mounted on the wheel without any actual stopper.

I have an idea for designing a stopper that can be 3D printed in TPU, as I don't have my Sherman S yet I can't take measurements and prototype it but I have a fairly good idea already for something that might work.

I think this style of mounting is normal for MTB...
The bump-travel limit is typically internal to the shock: a rubber piece that becomes compressed, before metal parts bottom out. 

I think the long grey piece inside the spring is the bump rubber for Sherm-S. (Timestamped vid below.) 
You might be able to prove it for yourself, if you had the shock apart (e.g. for a spring change) by temporarily reassembling without the spring and moving the shock by hand.

If someone else knows more, please chime in! 

And yes, it's technically possible to hit it so severely that the bump rubber compresses so much that other things come into contact. It would take an exceptionally heavy hit though...

[DragonFZ]

On 5/9/2023 at 1:19 AM, WILSONEUC said:

Can anyone confirm if o.g sherman charger works alongside  the Stock Sherman S charger for dual port charging without issue or increased fire hazard risk?  (And to use o.g sherman charger as a backup solo charger) . Plus, does anyone recommend a trustworthy and safe quick charger for this wheel? Thank you kindly

I've been using my OG Charger for about 4 months. I noticed my SS Charger was not calibrated to 100.8V, more like 100.4V. I wanted to make sure I can get the battery packs to balance, so I started using my OC Charger. Did the Dual Charger for the 1st time this Wednesday and it was fast. 65% battery to 97% in an hour and 10 minutes.

[DragonFZ]

On 5/10/2023 at 2:52 PM, Bustapalapno said:

Every batch 3 Sherman-S that has gone to Alien Rides has had at least one broken motor bolt. That’s 4/5 Sherman-S seen by that shop. I believe there is one other reported case in the Bay Area. 
 

Talking to the tech at Alien Rides, because there are 4 bolts per side, the broken bolt may go unnoticed by some riders. This is unlike the V13 with 3 bolts per side. A broken bolt on the V13 are immediately obvious. 
 

Given this information, I would personally assume that any Batch 3 Sherman-S is likely to have a bad motor bolt. I am planning on replacing all the bolts in mine. 

Wow... I'm on batch 1. I was on a group ride as a V13 going thru bolt breaking issue. It may have started a crack before the ride, but the first sign was after dropping a curb. There was a noticeable rubbing noise and after that every little bounce there was rubbing noise. We continued riding. Within 2 miles, it gotten worse and assume all the bolts broke to the point where it was shaking while ON. Note: Each broken bolt is hard to remove.

[DragonFZ]

On 5/11/2023 at 8:45 AM, CDINPHX said:

Fantastic video, I do agree though why they haven’t bumped the voltage up with the Payton becoming 126v. Granted me being a newb, I wouldn’t know the difference. 
 

I suspect on their next larger wheel or maybe the fourth batch you’ll see the Sherman get upgraded. 

I'm thinking LK is being careful with one or two new challenge at a time. The Patton is like a test model for their 126V system. I'm pretty sure after some data collection from all the Patton Beta Testers. The next Sherman S form will be 126V.

[mrelwood]

 

51 minutes ago, DragonFZ said:

There was a noticeable rubbing noise and after that every little bounce there was rubbing noise. We continued riding.

Eegh… That’s one kind of brave. Based on what I’ve read here over the years, I definitely wouldn’t have continued riding if my wheel exhibited a strange noise without me knowing why. Faceplanting ain’t no fun.

[Rawnei]

Friend dismantled his Shock to find the leak and it turned out the oil seal had become misaligned on the blue (damper) side, he himself speculates that it was an unfortunate result of no compression dampening combined with too low spring rate (he's 90kg+ and has the 62lb spring) and that jumping the wheel under those circumstances created too high pressure.

 

[RagingGrandpa]

On 5/13/2023 at 4:29 AM, Rawnei said:

the oil seal had become misaligned

Nice find.

Was it simple to remedy?
(By pushing the seal cartridge back into the correct position?)

[Rawnei]

2 hours ago, RagingGrandpa said:

Nice find.

Was it simple to remedy?
(By pushing the seal cartridge back into the correct position?)

Yes there was also a sort of lock pin there that slots into a groove to hold it in place, my own guess is that this piece wasn't inserted properly in factory and that is why everything came loose, but pure speculation of course.